AFTRBRNR

Just talked to the shop that sourced my engine build with the findings. He's not happy about the PSI numbers and suggests removing the front cover and swapping oil pumps to a new one. He wasn't overly concerned with a few flakes in the filter and nothing sticking to the oil pan plug.

AFTRBRNR

I ran a magnet over the flakes and they do not lift off of the filter paper. Pressing the 5# magnet against the pieces while they are on my glove does not pick them up either.

Possible that it's just nothing at all? Still planning to have oil testing and oil pressure sensor checked. The order of repair so far
1) Oil pressure sensor test
2) Oil testing
3) Oil pump inspection

CI GS

Those flakes are probably just dirt or lint.
You're on the right track now.
10 bucks says it's the O-ring.

rabrooks

Why is your oil temp at 232 degrees. Normal driving even on a hot day should be no more than about 190 driving aggressively. Maybe there is something wrong with your oil cooling system

AFTRBRNR

I was thinking the same thing as well. I've never noticed them to be that high before. I usually see my oil about 10 degrees warmer than my coolant. Can you remind me how the oil cooling system works for these cars? I've never noticed any cooling lines for engine oil.

User Omega

Drop to a 5w 30 and your oil temp will fall. You don't base your oil weight off of pressure. You base if off of temperature. A thinner oil will flow more volume which always trumps pressure and will offer more cooling.

That is the least of your problems right now though.

rabrooks

My oil temps are always 10 degrees less than coolant temps. There is an air to oil cooler in front of the radiator on LS7. LS3 have variations from none to coolant to oil coolers

CI GS

On the wet sump cars, I believe oil temps typically run around 220-240 degrees, which is actually the ideal temperature for oil to work properly, boil off moisture, etc. My car (wet sump A6 GS) normally runs 175-190 ECTs and about 210 engine oil temps on a typical 85-95 degree weather. An engine oil temp of 232 degrees is nothing to worry about, IMHO.
Of course, the dry sump cars, with their added capacity and external oil coolers, will run a much cooler temp on the street, because they are actually designed to manage oil temps on a track. In my view, they should actually have oil thermostats in those cars that prevent oil flowing through the cooler until it reaches, say, 210 degrees.

AFTRBRNR

I was running 232 with Mobil 1 5w30 also.

User Omega

Interesting. That is definitely not right.

AFTRBRNR

Thought I'd drop an update. I haven't driven the car in about a week so... took it out for a couple of miles in 50 degree weather. Cold oil pressures were 45-65. around 200 degrees it dropped down to 25 psi. I'm slowly starting to feel like the engine builder put the wrong o-ring in the pick up tube.

What a total bummer. That is one hell of a project to replace an o ring.

User Omega

Why are we seriously still talking about it. Unsubscribed.......

Scatter it for all I care.

AFTRBRNR

The best part about this forum is the fact that there is an incredible knowledge-base of post-marketing experience about the nature of these cars. Not each problem is identical, otherwise, those of us that know how to use the advanced search option would never need to ask for help.

Several people have chimed in to give me great ideas that I didn't even think about. Personally, I don't have a whole lot of time to spend under the hood because I am a doctor with long hours at work and more at home doing research... but I prefer to do my own work when I can due to more self-satisfaction being that I have owned this car since I was 20 years old and keep it running great.

For the most part, people on this forum are incredibly positive and encouraging such as Bill Curlee and Vettenuts who have been there for me for a very long time and I have learned so much. I am not a mechanic by trade but I am very handy with tools if pointed in the right direction.

I am following advice, but at the pace I have time for (I put 2,000 miles per year on the car at best). The intent with the updates is to build a history of the current problem so that someday, someone else will be able to rapidly recognize similar symptoms and find the cause... and WE ALL played a part in helping that person whether we know it or not. So, thank you for contributions, but please feel free to take your negativity with you out the door. That's behavior not worthy of "save the wave".

outhouse

As stated already.


That is your problem, it was a mistake to do such.


Should be corrected and I would bet $100 it is not an Oring. Or you would have a larger drop.

AFTRBRNR

Summary of symptoms:

Cold oil pressure 50 PSI at idle (40-50 cruising)
Warm oil pressure 30 PSI at idle (30-40 cruising)
Hot oil pressure 15 PSI at idle (28-31 cruising) When hot, WOT pressure is in the 30's. [Don't worry, didn't do much of that]

Oil pump: Melling high pressure (new out of the box)
Oils and filters used: Mobil 1 5w30 with Mobil 1 filter
Royal Purple 10w40 with AC Delco filter

No significance noted by switching oils and filters. Pulling apart filters shows no evidence of damage. Engine sounds do not indicate an issue.

Manual pressure gauge connected to the right of the oil pump (thanks to the CF member that showed me a fantastic picture). MANUAL GAUGE CONFIRMS TRUE OIL READINGS FROM THE OPS.

Many members on here suspected this: appreciation to all that provided assistance.

Shared the results with the builder. He is convinced the pump is bad and that the relief valve is stuck open. He says I need a new pump.

I know now that I need to have the front end of the motor removed at the least.

Thanks to all.

outhouse

Engine bearings set to looser tolerances than stock \


Your pressure mirrors this exact change nothing more or less, the FACT your engine builder did not build to spec tells me he is a bone head with no knowledge of LS engines.


Fix the bearings and your pressure will be fixed, but go ahead and trust some bone head that built out of spec for no good reason. It makes no sense.

AFTRBRNR

I have not discounted your advice. I am relaying what's being said. I am in a bad spot because... the builder is firm on blaming the pump (makes sense, would put them at 0% negligence). But the evidence suggests that something they did was wrong... so how do I get them to admit fault and fix it? Or do I eat a huge cost and have someone else just basically rebuild the engine?

rabrooks

FYI, just started my 700 crank hp engine. it has 70 psi cold oil pressure. I feel confident hot oil pressure will be 40+ at idle. I do have a katech red oil pump. Its high scavenge and high pressure. All my other engines were 45-55 cold oil pressure at idle

CI GS

I honestly doubt it's looser bearing clearances that's causing the problem, unless he really somehow got his hands on some **** bearings or had the crank journals cut down significantly. And I believe if that was the case, that engine would be knocking and probably would've died by now. Generally speaking, looser clearances means just a few thousandths of an inch difference, and running thinner or thicker oil doesn't make a double digit difference in pressure, from my experience. So, the thicker oil (10w-40) should have shown some gain in oil pressure. My money is still on the o-ring or a broken/collapsed relief valve spring, in either of which cases, the engine isn't getting full oil pressure.
If it were me, I would've had the front end of that engine torn down already and checked the pump. I had to pull mine right back down for less than that a few months back, when I installed the crank seal backwards! **** happens, to the best of us...

CI GS

I would suggest that you tell him to prove it's the pump and not his installation work by pulling the motor down and showing you what the problem is, and then and only then, you will pay him for the extra work. And then keep an eye on what he does so that he doesn't do any fancy footwork on you. Tell him that if he doesn't agree to that arrangement, you'll have your attorney contact him about an alternate arrangement.
BTW: here's a really crappy deal. If it was a flaw in the pump, you may not have any recourse with Melling. Melling's own instructional video tells you to pull it apart (not a big deal) to get the pump perfectly aligned on the crank. BUT, Melling says that once you pull it apart, that kills the warranty! How phucked up is that?! In any event, the bigger price tag is going to be the LS our. The cost of the pump is peanuts in the whole scheme of things.
NOTE: The GM/OEM pumps are self aligning, by the way, and don't require you to pull them apart. So, IF the pump is screwed up and you do have to replace it, find a good CF vendor and buy a ported GM unit instead. My 2 additional cents.