SkittlesRgood

Hey guys. Just joined for some expert help. I got a Z51 radiator installed when my last radiator cracked but I can't figure out how the hell to run the engine oil lines. I have the stock hard lines but they seem to want to run VERY close to a pulley and it seems like the power steering cooler is in the way. The only information I've been able to find is this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...a-base-c6.html
But I wasn't able to figure out how they got the lines through, from their description. Does anyone have some pictures or know where I'm going wrong?

also - I'm trying to get my temps down on the track. On a really hot day I got close to 300* oil temp, normal day was around 280*, I installed a vararam before the last track day and even though it was about 70* ambient I got close to 300* again. normal city/highway driving I'm at ~220*. So I'm planning on getting oil going through the radiator, add 160* Tstat, and probably replace the vararam with a hammerhead. Any bonus advice here would be appreciated.

HOXXOH

Can't help on the oil line location, but make sure your AC condenser is clean and add 1 extra quart of oil on race day. Your 220* normal is a bit on the warm side. The 160 stat won't help your problem.

AORoads

Neither can I help, but when you say you have the stock hard lines (from the thread you referenced) does that mean the new ones that go with a Z51 radiator or your own base radiator lines? I'd also suggest borrowing/getting the Helms manual for the year of the car to see the schematic on how the lines are run.

Short of that, I see "ErnieN85" and "dbratten" both referenced in the url/thread. I'd contact them. They are still on here and post occasionally. I'd try BOTH email and PM if they have both in their profile. Just right click on their name, see if they have "email" under their name, and click on it. In case they don't get the email, send a PM, too (altho some people don't see that they have a PM in the upper right corner of the page when they sign in right away---may take a day or two).

Finally, while I don't know much about track temps, I have seen those high numbers in C7 racing at 300 and 280 with an obviously different engine, and it is not good for those cars. It can be potential disaster as you probably know very well. I'd at least try what Tom HOX wrote above.

jaredtxrx

Your temps seem pretty typical, maybe a touch on the high side, but typical.
Like HOXXOH said made sure your a/d condenser is cleaned up.

I however can't provide much help on installing the radiator.

timd38

Your oil temp is way too high. Early Z51 had the oil cooler in the radiator, later ones had a separate cooler. You didn't say what year you have. I have a 2006 Z51 with a 2006 Z06 oil cooler and 2011 Z07 radiator. Zero temp issues.

CMY SIX

it's a PITA but you need some good light and you just have to fish the hoses thru, I got them thru on the first install, but when I did a "cam job" I got them in a better position

SkittlesRgood

I hit the condenser with an air nozzle when I changed my radiator but I know there's still more crap in there. Is there any advice on a good way to clean this better? find a soft brush and push it through the fins? If so, can I push from the front, since the radiator is blocking the rear? obviously I know those fins are stupid soft and I don't want to damage them. If the Tstat wont help, do you think that the bulk of my cooling troubles are in a clogged condenser?

Sorry, realized I didn't include some good information, you're right. I have a 2007 automatic. The hard lines I have are for a z51. I felt like I couldn't install the hard lines because of the power steering cooler, the z51 has it in a different location, but CMY SIX could you give more information on where you got them through?

Ok, so for overall heat are there any other suggestions? Could it be possible my thermostat isn't opening all the way? It's probably the original part (previous owner wasn't a stickler about maintenance ). Should I forget the radiator as a means for cooling the engine oil? I was thinking maybe loop the ATF lines back through the engine oil side and add a stand alone oil cooler? (engine oil has never been through this radiator but not sure if that's a stupid idea or not)

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll try messaging those other guys.

Ragtop 99

What are your coolant temps?

For a track car, I'd go with an external cooler. You probably need upgraded transmission cooling too. The tranny is adding to the heat load.

SkittlesRgood

Unfortunately I don't exactly remember. maybe up to 230. trans might have been 240. I should have actually paid attention to those too.

I'm going to replace the thermostat with an OEM replacement, add water wetter, and clean the condenser (once I research a safe way to). Still probably going to swap the intake. I'll see what kind of improvements I get with that before adding a stand alone cooler.

AORoads

I don't know that I'd use a brush for the fins; maybe a very thin piece of plastic and very carefully each fin. I've not done many, but I read once of someone getting it done that way. Very labor intensive. The trouble is, once you push whatever in, where does it drop to? As you said there's very little space behind it for anything to drop other than grit and dust. I doubt if the thermostat stuck partially closed--the usual default is open all the way, but it could be. And no way of knowing now, but usually the water temp is closer to oil temp, again, not always. In your case the trans is throwing off heat, too.

irok

240F would be way too hot for the transmission.trany wont last at that temperature

Ragtop 99

I switched to about 60/40 water/coolant and added royal purple ice. I found it dropped temps a few degrees. I would have gone to a 70/30 mixture but it gets too cold here to use it. Some run higher ratios but watch your boil-over protection if you are running 230* or higher coolant temps.

SkittlesRgood

Ugh... I hope I dont have to sit there with a toothpick poking at hundreds of openings lol. I'll grab an air nozzle that will fit between the rad and condenser and blow it out again. maybe hit it with some degreaser to lube up the junk.

What's a normal temp under heavy load? I'm going to run ATF through the rad's EOC too. That should keep those temps in check.

I'm not exactly sure what my final mixture is but I'm guessing it's around 20% coolant, to try to keep temps down. I'm in california so freezing isn't much of a problem.

Any recommendations on an oil cooler or features I should look for? I'd rather not spend $600+ on the Z06 one unless I have to. I'm going to run the stock hard lines then to a thermostat and onto the cooler, probably with black hose and hose barbs since I'll be away from the engine at that point. (again, unless you all insist otherwise)

Ragtop 99

I've used plate type coolers for use with transmission fluid cooling (e.g., B&M supercoolers) on my camaros, but I haven't looked into coolers for the C6 since it is a manual and has a built-in unit. The plate type worked well for a compact size. Hopefully others will chime in, but I'd look to replicate the rectangular shape and placement of the stock options to ensure it gets good airflow.

I wish the Z51 came with a thermostat on the cooler. It takes a while for the oil to get hot in the cooler weather. I've considered wrapping the cooler in the winter.

SkittlesRgood

Why not just add one? Cut the hose and put a thermostat in-line. That was my plan.

Ragtop 99

no good reason on my end not to do it. I stopped daily driving my vette in the winter and just let the issue slide. Maybe this will prod me to do something about it.

irok

run my ATF through B&M Hi-Tech cooler with its own fan and thermostat in driving light opening.I don't run through cars radiator.normal operating temperature with this set up is in the 165F to 180F range in 90*+ ambient temps.under heavy load at track it may temporarily creep up into the 200F range.the fan is on a switch in car to turn off in colder weather as it may not get up to proper operating temperatures.stock cooling system temps under heavy load and you will probably see 200F+ and take much longer for system to cool down