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Either one of the proven BTR off the shelf grinds (stage 2 or 3) or have Pat G/Ed C/etc custom spec you a cam exactly for your goals.
Except for winter, a 160 and 180 T-stat will perform the same because the car doesn't run on the stat. Corvettes do not have enough cooling normally to run on the t-stat opening temp. So all a 160 does is make it so the car takes longer to warm up, which is actually bad for the car.
Here's the deal.... YES, ABSOLUTELY a 160 t stat will lower your temperature.
Do not be mislead by people who don't really know and just like to hear themselves talk.
Some facts...Your corvette left BOWLING GREEN with a 187 deg stat.
Yes, your corvette (with 187 stat) can run at temps of 220 and higher in the summer....
The perfect target temp for LSx engine operation is roughly 190-200. This is our target. Sometimes a bit less and other times a bit more.
But, let's figure it like this.... Your car (with stock stat and programming) will usually get over 215 on a hot day.....
When we do the math.... 187 deg minus 160 deg equals about a 27 degree difference.....Hence, your car can easily run just under 200.
Forget the garbage about stats opening wide after 160 and staying open....It's ABSOLUTELY UNTRUE...especially when the correct fan calibrations are programmed.
The stat does NOT pop open at a pre determined temp.....It (listen good here) BEGINS to open and is constantly opening and closing as warmer water exits the engine and is replaced by cooler water returning from the radiator which actually causes the stat to begin closing slowing the exchange rate between the radiator and engine so that the HOT engine water and COOLER radiator water switch places.
If your stat stayed open, two things would happen depending on the efficiency of your system.
A) your car would overheat badly.
or
B) your car would never reach operating temp.
TO ABSOLUTELY MAKE MY POINT HERE... It is a proven and very well known fact that when a C5 or C6 stat, in a stock or otherwise mildly modified engine, sticks open or fails in the open position the coolant circulates TOO FAST and the coolant temp when cruising down the highway will drop as low as 150 deg in cool weather.
LISTEN UP: This is a good point and everyone should be aware of it. If your Corvette runs at anywhere near 150 deg fully warmed up when cruising at highway speeds at night or in cooler weather....
YOUR STAT IS STUCK FULLY OPEN!
Sorry to be rough on everyone here, but...I'm kinda frustrated with all the "STAT EXPERTS" on this site telling people that what I do is wrong....
The most common failure of stats is by people who install them incorrectly....When a Corvette cooling system is not filled correctly (underfilled or air bound) a pocket of steam develops in the engine and when the owner tries to drive the car...the steam ruptures the wax pellet in the stat and it usually FAILS in the STUCK OPEN position.....when the coolant is eventually filled up correctly....THE VEHICLE RUNS TOO COOL...Usually about 150 or so.
Again, this is TRUTH regarding the "Stat is open and useless after 160" debate.
The corvette cooling system is VERY EFFICIENT and has the potential to run too cool.
NOW, what I suggest is a proper 160 stat and the fan calibrations I use.
Some tuners don't believe in 160s and that's their problem. They believe that it's unnecessary and they can just command the fans on all the time to compensate.
The truth is...
#1.... that it causes big temperature fluctuations in most cars.
#2.... The harder you run the fans....the less time they will last.
#3.... The harder you run the fans.... The louder they will be and more annoying they will be...
#4.... I have proven that running C6 PWM fans at full duty cycle in hot weather will cause the wires to MELT. GM also figured this out as the fan calibrations in C6s are limited to well less than 100% for a good reason.
#5..... Your fans likely draw between 30 and 40 amps and your alternator needs to produce that power which ultimately costs a few horsepower.
It is of the highest importance to have a 160 stat and to properly re-calibrate the fans if you want the BEST performance and to know that your car is running safe.
For you automatic guys...Also understand that your TRANSMISSION is cooled by the engine's radiator and TRANSMISSION fluid does not like heat.....
The life of the transmission fluid (and the transmission itself) diminishes proportionate to the increased temperature it operates at. Again, another proven fact.
This guy is NOT your friend.
This has been another public service announcement by....
Chuck CoW
Chuck: the shop that installed my cam and headers and tuned it put a 180 stat and programed my fan to come on at 30% at 195 and 70% at 203.When cursing down the Blvd. in auto mode (D) my runs from 192 to around 198 in the heat here in TX so I see no reason to put in a 160 and it takes a long time for my oil to get to 210 even.
From the factory, the first cell of the fan control tables has a "0" or ZERO.
Originally Posted by Cherokee Nation
Chuck: the shop that installed my cam and headers and tuned it put a 180 stat and programed my fan to come on at 30% at 195 and 70% at 203.When cursing down the Blvd. in auto mode (D) my runs from 192 to around 198 in the heat here in TX so I see no reason to put in a 160 and it takes a long time for my oil to get to 210 even.
Hey there... Looking at your profile, I see you have a 2008 C6 A6.
From the factory, the first cell of the fan control tables has a "0" or ZERO.
That means that the fan does not run till you get to 192 (which is the first cell of the fan control table)
When you change that ZERO to 30% for instance, the car starts cold (no matter how cold) at 30% and runs at that speed till
the temp reaches the fan temp reaches the 196 cell and operates at whatever speed that cell contains...and so on.
When the pcm sees temps between 192 and 196....the fan speed is adjusted by % on a gradient dependent on where
temp is relative to those 2 intervals so the fan speed does not actually increase in steps like the it appears in the
tuning software the way it is displayed. A bit confusing till you see how it works.
As for what your car does.... It may work fine for you, but realize that every build and every circumstance is different.
What people don't realize is, for instance, your tuner may or may not have adjusted your trans pressures, lockup control, or
your idle might be slightly rich or lean..... The way the car is "as is" is different in some ways than for instance.... How I tune them...
And they won't operate the same.
What we don't want is fans that run aggressively on the hot days in summer and make no heat in the winter.
Where I live in NY we have FREEZING winters and cool nights much of the year, but temps can occasionally reach 100 on a summer day.
While the 100 deg day might happen infrequently, it's still a concern because it's like the nice sunny day that my customer wants
to race the mustang in the other lane.... I have no control over that "once in a while" situation so, I opt for the slightly
cooler stat and a lesser fan speed to keep my customers out of trouble and avoid the deadly C6 "melted FAN power wires".
I'll gladly trade the winter time 175/180 ish running temps for the 200+ in the summer for my customers all day, and
while they might not realize it.... That eventual trans failure might occur a few years later (likely for the next owner) rather than
run a higher temp now and have a trans failure sooner than it might if it could have been avoided by simply lowering the
stat earlier in the life of the car.....
A trans in a C6 A6 can be 4-6K $$$ depending on where you go and and as the car gets older and older it's harder to justify
that money..... It's not going to happen to everyone, rest assured a cooler running engine.... means a cooler running trans....
Time and Temperature are the enemies of ALL cars and their owners....
Ashes to ashes...dust to dust.... If you don't control the temp as best you can.... Rest assured the life of most parts in the car
(especially the drive-train) when temps are too high for too long.... Will fail earlier rather than later.....
As the car ages.... Temp control becomes more and more important...
If you fix the temp earlier in the vehicles life... You have less problems later.
Hey there... Looking at your profile, I see you have a 2008 C6 A6.
From the factory, the first cell of the fan control tables has a "0" or ZERO.
That means that the fan does not run till you get to 192 (which is the first cell of the fan control table)
When you change that ZERO to 30% for instance, the car starts cold (no matter how cold) at 30% and runs at that speed till
the temp reaches the fan temp reaches the 196 cell and operates at whatever speed that cell contains...and so on.
When the pcm sees temps between 192 and 196....the fan speed is adjusted by % on a gradient dependent on where
temp is relative to those 2 intervals so the fan speed does not actually increase in steps like the it appears in the
tuning software the way it is displayed. A bit confusing till you see how it works.
As for what your car does.... It may work fine for you, but realize that every build and every circumstance is different.
What people don't realize is, for instance, your tuner may or may not have adjusted your trans pressures, lockup control, or
your idle might be slightly rich or lean..... The way the car is "as is" is different in some ways than for instance.... How I tune them...
And they won't operate the same.
What we don't want is fans that run aggressively on the hot days in summer and make no heat in the winter.
Where I live in NY we have FREEZING winters and cool nights much of the year, but temps can occasionally reach 100 on a summer day.
While the 100 deg day might happen infrequently, it's still a concern because it's like the nice sunny day that my customer wants
to race the mustang in the other lane.... I have no control over that "once in a while" situation so, I opt for the slightly
cooler stat and a lesser fan speed to keep my customers out of trouble and avoid the deadly C6 "melted FAN power wires".
I'll gladly trade the winter time 175/180 ish running temps for the 200+ in the summer for my customers all day, and
while they might not realize it.... That eventual trans failure might occur a few years later (likely for the next owner) rather than
run a higher temp now and have a trans failure sooner than it might if it could have been avoided by simply lowering the
stat earlier in the life of the car.....
A trans in a C6 A6 can be 4-6K $$$ depending on where you go and and as the car gets older and older it's harder to justify
that money..... It's not going to happen to everyone, rest assured a cooler running engine.... means a cooler running trans....
Time and Temperature are the enemies of ALL cars and their owners....
Ashes to ashes...dust to dust.... If you don't control the temp as best you can.... Rest assured the life of most parts in the car
(especially the drive-train) when temps are too high for too long.... Will fail earlier rather than later.....
As the car ages.... Temp control becomes more and more important...
If you fix the temp earlier in the vehicles life... You have less problems later.
Chuck CoW
Good Write Up: I just took a ride down the Blvd..,about a 10 mile ride and the temp is 75 degrees at 9:30 P/M.Cursing at 45 mph or lower and a signal light every two blocks. I checked my tranny temp on the way back home and it was at 115 degrees......My question is: What is the optimum temp for the auto to run at....I monitor the coolant temp in the dic all the time, but I do check while at a signal light all the other stuff.
A lot o different theories and opinions om the thermostats. I recently added headers, X pipes, CAI, and a street tune, to my 2008, about a week later I switch the thermostat from stock to a 160. The car is running noticeable cooler (about 20 degrees cooler) than before most of the time if not all the time. Not an opinion or a theory but a real life observation. There are arguments for many different views but nothing beats real life. You can find a logical argument for anything. This reminds me the study by several PHD scientists regarding the flying theory of the hummingbird. A very extensive and scientific research. The conclusion of the study was that the hummingbird cannot possibly fly . . .
I guess that the hummingbirds didn't got that email . . .
You say 20 degrees cooler: What was it running at before the 160 stat? And what temp are you at now at in town driving?.....It gets pretty dam warm down where you live...Not as bad as TX tho........
Good Write Up: I just took a ride down the Blvd..,about a 10 mile ride and the temp is 75 degrees at 9:30 P/M.Cursing at 45 mph or lower and a signal light every two blocks. I checked my tranny temp on the way back home and it was at 115 degrees......My question is: What is the optimum temp for the auto to run at....I monitor the coolant temp in the dic all the time, but I do check while at a signal light all the other stuff.
It depends..... Stock cars will run hotter, but personally I prefer 200 or less.
Cars with trans tunes or other mods will be higher and obviously, the increased engine temps people think are acceptable
only add to the TRANS temps as the trans cooler in INSIDE THE ENGINES RADIATOR. That's why I make such a big
deal out of lowering the ENGINE TEMP. One just adds to the other.
I always take a pro-active approach to TEMP. Don't let it get hot and then think you're going to cool it down.
Keep it from getting hot in the first place and you are always a step ahead. A stat is a good way of doing this.
When you dive aggressively (especially in hot weather) the temps shoot up quickly....
If you start at a lower temp, it's always possible to NOT get as hot or at least have a quicker recovery time after
beating on it. That's what we want.
In the trans computer on A4, A6, A8, and A10 transmissions there is a TRANS FLUID TEMP sensor.... regardless of wether or not
your car displays the TRANS TEMP the trans knows the temp and adjusts pressure to keep everything performing consistently
regardless of temp (within reason).
While this is not exactly what I was looking for, it gives you an idea of how it works.... This is from a C5.....
When oil is COLD it's obviously thick and the TCM decreases pressure and as temp gets HOT the fluid gets thinner and flows thru
the trans faster so the TCM increases pressure to prevent pressure losses internally.
While it's not perfect, it does a pretty good job of controlling the trans this way so performance and shift feel is consistent.
Letting the trans temp run hotter than necessary is just plain stupid especially when you can install an inexpensive stat and tune
the pcm to turn the fans on earlier.... Not necessarily to "improve power" but to make the trans last longer and to give
the engine a wider window of spark control to prevent pinging and detonation when driving hard just as we CAN control
the operating temp to a degree....we can't always control altitude and octane...or the driver with a heavy foot....
So when it comes to having Chuck CoW tune your car.... He's not concerned as much about your peak HP #, but more about longevity...
We want the car to last a long time and taking a few degrees of the top of the operating temp ensures good performance....
Even if the fuel octane varies from time to time...or temp changes season to season.... I don't want your engine or trans
to blow up.... Most Vettes are more fun when they are driving rather than when they are in the shop.
Take a good look at the Transmission Life Expectancy chart I posted....
It pretty much tells the story and sub 200 deg average temps are always best....
REGARDLESS of how GM designed them to run..... The 160 stat and proper fan controls are ALWAYS your friend.
You say 20 degrees cooler: What was it running at before the 160 stat? And what temp are you at now at in town driving?.....It gets pretty dam warm down where you live...Not as bad as TX tho........
I wasn't documenting the temperatures in detail but I remember running around 210 or so. Now they stay below 200, closer to 190/195. The temps down here haven't raise too much yet, we are still in the low 80s right now.
I've always been in the camp that, once running and warmed up to op temps, then the Tstat is secondary to coolant system capacity and design if that Tstat is rated significantly under the running coolant temps (e,g.: 180* tstat to 205* op temps). That, until I read Chuck CoW's well constructed and detailed argument to the contrary. I do agree with Chuck's comment that the tstat is NOT an instant open, instant close operation.
I have ordered a 160* thermostat. I'm going to install and DL. I have nothing better to do as my car is just a "laboratory" anyway, and, no better place than 100*+ air temps in Phoenix. I am obsessed with DLing and have tons of archive data to compare.
In 100*+ temps, I now run about 208 max, one momentary spike to 210, but more averaging 205 with a factory 187* tstat. Lots of archive DLs to compare. After I install the 160, I'll reset my fan tables according to Chuck's writeup and see what I get.
I've always been in the camp that, once running and warmed up to op temps, then the Tstat is secondary to coolant system capacity and design if that Tstat is rated significantly under the running coolant temps (e,g.: 180* tstat to 205* op temps). That, until I read Chuck CoW's well constructed and detailed argument to the contrary. I do agree with Chuck's comment that the tstat is NOT an instant open, instant close operation.
I have ordered a 160* thermostat. I'm going to install and DL. I have nothing better to do as my car is just a "laboratory" anyway, and, no better place than 100*+ air temps in Phoenix. I am obsessed with DLing and have tons of archive data to compare.
In 100*+ temps, I now run about 208 max, one momentary spike to 210, but more averaging 205 with a factory 187* tstat. Lots of archive DLs to compare. After I install the 160, I'll reset my fan tables according to Chuck's writeup and see what I get.
Thanks again Chuck....
Don't forget the Fan settings..... FWIW, call me some time when you're this and I'll help you with some suggestions
Don't forget the Fan settings..... FWIW, call me some time when you're this and I'll help you with some suggestions
before you go changing things.
914-332-0049
Chuck CoW
Chuck, thanks for the offer and I might just do that. As an engineer, I'm programmed to try things on my own first, but yes, I already see the importance of remetering the fans through the temp range. I'm fanatical about data collection so I'll DL (with HPT) everything I do, but would like to take a swing at the ball.
Right now, my fans are set like this coming out of the winter where the highest air temps have been no more that the 80s or lower and coolant temps never have run higher than 203 for only moments.
Now, with the air temps changing to 100*f, I'm getting 205 with moments at 208/210. But, I've already made a modest fueling change too BC LTFTs started creeping up to about +2%/3% and I like to maintain -2% to -4%. that actually dropped temps in 100* air temps too.
This is the simple ECT. Not including the AC kpa table.
I've always been in the camp that, once running and warmed up to op temps, then the Tstat is secondary to coolant system capacity and design if that Tstat is rated significantly under the running coolant temps (e,g.: 180* tstat to 205* op temps). That, until I read Chuck CoW's well constructed and detailed argument to the contrary. I do agree with Chuck's comment that the tstat is NOT an instant open, instant close operation.
I have ordered a 160* thermostat. I'm going to install and DL. I have nothing better to do as my car is just a "laboratory" anyway, and, no better place than 100*+ air temps in Phoenix. I am obsessed with DLing and have tons of archive data to compare.
In 100*+ temps, I now run about 208 max, one momentary spike to 210, but more averaging 205 with a factory 187* tstat. Lots of archive DLs to compare. After I install the 160, I'll reset my fan tables according to Chuck's writeup and see what I get.
Thanks again Chuck....
When you get your new stat test it in a pan of hot water on your stove and it works just like Chuck said, that was new to me also.
When you get your new stat test it in a pan of hot water on your stove and it works just like Chuck said, that was new to me also.
Ha, funny. I've been boiling tstats on the stove since I was about 15 yrs old.
Not quite the same in service. I'm thinking now that if you're close enough between op temps and tstat rating(180/187* stat) that an oscillation can occur. The motor heats it and starts opening, then a rush of cooler liquid starts closing, but all of this happens in partially opened/closed positions where full flow is restricted by the tstat. Eventually, the entire system reaches an undesirably high temp where the tstat stays fully opened, but by that time the entire system is overwhelmed by heat and cannot recover.
I'm theorizing now (and with the help of Chuck) that with the greater differential in temps with the 160 and typical op/running temps, the tstat will open fully and stay that way allowing more full flow and letting the radiator do its job. More similar to running without a tstat, only with the advantage of warming up a little sooner.
I should have the 160 in a few days and it'll take me about 60mins to install it. Then, if I also have the 100* air temps, I'll DL it first with my existing fans settings, then modifying the fan table.
Ha, funny. I've been boiling tstats on the stove since I was about 15 yrs old.
Not quite the same in service. I'm thinking now that if you're close enough between op temps and tstat rating(180/187* stat) that an oscillation can occur. The motor heats it and starts opening, then a rush of cooler liquid starts closing, but all of this happens in partially opened/closed positions where full flow is restricted by the tstat. Eventually, the entire system reaches an undesirably high temp where the tstat stays fully opened, but by that time the entire system is overwhelmed by heat and cannot recover.
I'm theorizing now (and with the help of Chuck) that with the greater differential in temps with the 160 and typical op/running temps, the tstat will open fully and stay that way allowing more full flow and letting the radiator do its job. More similar to running without a tstat, only with the advantage of warming up a little sooner.
I should have the 160 in a few days and it'll take me about 60mins to install it. Then, if I also have the 100* air temps, I'll DL it first with my existing fans settings, then modifying the fan table.
Very nice!
It does work for most of us..... Pretty well actually....
And while the stat may / or may not be open all the time.... Airflow across the radiator and waterpump speeds change as well....
This is not a simple 2 dimensional graph.... The people who don't agree, likely don't see that there are MANY more variables than
are immediately obvious and this cooling system is simply not that simple or....
Yesterday, I received the 160* tstat from SLP. Took two hours to install. Thought I could do it in one working around the Vortech, but in the end, I had to remove some SC parts. After install and refill, (and I am still finishing bleeding the system out this morning), I went out for a one hour drive.
The car BTW - 09 LS3 Z51, M6, A&A blower, Z06 exhaust (complete front to back), Wideband and dashlogic.
The air temps yesterday in my drive topped out at 97*F. This is about one degree warmer than a previous similar run with the factory 187* Tstat one week ago.
Summary:
First the before - With the 187*, and 96* air temps and running various typical driving conditions, stop/go, 50 mph speeds in light traffic:
Maximum ECT temp observed - 215 (very briefly, then back down to 208/210)
Average op temps @ 96* air temp - 208*
After the 160* switch:
Same driving conditions, except I added 6 pretty hard pulls in the middle of the drive, then resumed normal stop/go, 50 mph driving conditions:
After the pulls and resuming normal driving, I saw the highest temp peak for a moment at 205*, then back down pretty quickly to 201.
Before the pulls, doing the normal stop/go 50mph driving temps stayed pretty much in the range of 194 to 199, with momentary peaks at 201.
Some other info - while I did the pulls I monitored IATs and was hitting 110*/112* IATs through dashlogic. I did not make any fan changes yet in the tune. It remains as shown in an earlier post. Today, I'll finish up and tune in a different fan op range. But for this first run:
Conclusion - I am definitely running a solid 10* to 12* cooler in similar air temps. That could be with air still in the system. I still want to record some DLs as all of the above was done through observations on the fly.
From this, I've now changed camps, and no longer subscribe to the theory that once the tstat rating is exceeded, everything is entirely contingent on cooling capacity. In fact, when that tstat rating is closer to the actual observed op temps, as a 187* tstat is, the tstat does not fully open and stay that way until op temps are considerably higher. Rather, there is a temperature differential on either side of the tstat that causes it to partially open close, and not allowing full flow until op temps rise well into the 200s
With a 160* tstat, the same temperature diferential occurs on either side of the tstat only in a much cooler range. The 160* stat probably fully opens more in the range of 190* op temps meaning that the full range of the cooling system comes on and stays that way much sooner.
Got the system bled and topped off this morning and flashed in another tune with adjusted fan table. It is much cooler today - about 79/80* air temps. I did about 30 mins of driving to ensure oil temps were up. Then I did some DLs. These are two consecutive pulls, actually the first one wasn't even full throttle, but boosted in both screen captures. Note the coolant temps. These are the coolest temps I've ever run at 80* air temp, by at least 10*.
If you're planning to throw a cam in there along with full exhaust, you really need a professional tune. A hand-held Diablo isn't going to get it done...which I never recommend anyways. I've read threads where people have done just a CAI and a Diablo tune, and actually lose HP.
The reason that you will loose power in 90% of these cars with a diablo tuner is the fact that all the do is raise timing to a level that is counter productive to the powerband... Their only goal is to make sure that you feel an instant pick up when you hit the throttle "which timing will do" However, It kills top end HP leaving users scratching their head when their 1320 is down 2 mph...there is usually a tad of leaning out, but for a national product that they sell everywhere, it isn't much to make an impact.....Leaning out the car at 3000 ft elevation would't be the same as sea level... That's why it's a generic same reduction across the board no matter where you order these and live..
While not denying the performance enhancing attributes of a 160 stat vs the OEM 187 under specific conditions, but like the typical salesman, you've thrown in a bunch of misleading statements and one that is just flat wrong.
Originally Posted by Chuck CoW
Here's the deal.... YES, ABSOLUTELY a 160 t stat will lower your temperature. (Only under specific conditions.)
Do not be mislead by people who don't really know and just like to hear themselves talk.
Some facts...Your corvette left BOWLING GREEN with a 187 deg stat.
Yes, your corvette (with 187 stat) can run at temps of 220 and higher in the summer.... (or any other time of the year.)
The perfect target temp for LSx engine operation is roughly 190-200. This is our target. Sometimes a bit less and other times a bit more.
But, let's figure it like this.... Your car (with stock stat and programming) will usually (?) get over 215 on a hot day..... (and the definition of a "hot" day varies wildly. Hot in Rhode Island is anything over 75.)
When we do the math.... 187 deg minus 160 deg equals about a 27 degree difference.....Hence, your car can easily run just under 200.
Forget the garbage about stats opening wide after 160 and staying open....It's ABSOLUTELY UNTRUE... (However, once wide open it'll stay that way until until some other factor causes the coolant to be cooler than the high limit temperature of the stat) especially when the correct fan calibrations are programmed. (the fan calibration low temperature limits are higher than the high limit of the 160 stat, so can't possible affect the stat to close.)
The stat does NOT pop open at a pre determined temp.....It (listen good here) BEGINS to open and is constantly opening and closing as warmer water exits the engine and is replaced by cooler water returning from the radiator which actually causes the stat to begin closing slowing the exchange rate between the radiator and engine so that the HOT engine water and COOLER radiator water switch places. (while true, it only starts to close when the radiator efficiency exceeds the high limit of the stat. The temperature range of stats is 15 to 20 degrees from full closed to full open and they are rated at the temperature they begin to open. So a 160 stat will start to open around 160 degrees and will stay fully opened above 180)
If your stat stayed open, two things would happen depending on the efficiency of your system.
A) your car would overheat badly. (unrelated to the stat, since a 160 stat is always opened above 180)
or
B) your car would never reach operating temp. (also unrelated to the stat, since ambient temperatures and load control the minimum temps)
TO ABSOLUTELY MAKE MY POINT HERE... It is a proven and very well known fact that when a C5 or C6 stat, in a stock or otherwise mildly modified engine, sticks open or fails in the open position the coolant circulates TOO FAST (even in the full open position, the physical opening size of a stat regulates the flow rate to allow coolant to have sufficient time in the radiator to dissipate heat) and the coolant temp when cruising down the highway will drop as low as 150 deg in cool weather. (the definition of "cool" weather varies wildly. Cool in Phx is anything under 70.)
LISTEN UP: This is a good point and everyone should be aware of it. If your Corvette runs at anywhere near 150 deg fully warmed up when cruising at highway speeds at night or in cooler weather....
YOUR STAT IS STUCK FULLY OPEN!
Sorry to be rough on everyone here, but...I'm kinda frustrated with all the "STAT EXPERTS" on this site telling people that what I do is wrong....
The most common failure of stats is by people who install them incorrectly....When a Corvette cooling system is not filled correctly (underfilled or air bound) a pocket of steam develops in the engine and when the owner tries to drive the car...the steam ruptures the wax pellet in the stat and it usually FAILS in the STUCK OPEN position..... (when the wax element fails the stat will always fail in the CLOSED position, since there is no other method to overcome the spring pressure) when the coolant is eventually filled up correctly....THE VEHICLE RUNS TOO COOL...Usually about 150 or so.
Again, this is TRUTH regarding the "Stat is open and useless after 160" debate.
The corvette cooling system is VERY EFFICIENT and has the potential to run too cool.
NOW, what I suggest is a proper 160 stat and the fan calibrations I use.
Some tuners don't believe in 160s and that's their problem. They believe that it's unnecessary and they can just command the fans on all the time to compensate.
The truth is...
#1.... that it causes big temperature fluctuations in most cars.
#2.... The harder you run the fans....the less time they will last.
#3.... The harder you run the fans.... The louder they will be and more annoying they will be...
#4.... I have proven that running C6 PWM fans at full duty cycle in hot weather will cause the wires to MELT. GM also figured this out as the fan calibrations in C6s are limited to well less than 100% for a good reason. (90% is the highest GM setting)
#5..... Your fans likely draw between 30 and 40 amps and your alternator needs to produce that power which ultimately costs a few horsepower. (if the ambient temperature is a problem that causes the fans to require more amperage, you probably have the AC on anyway and couldn't care less about HP)
It is of the highest importance to have a 160 stat and to properly re-calibrate the fans if you want the BEST performance and to know that your car is running safe.
For you automatic guys...Also understand that your TRANSMISSION is cooled by the engine's radiator and TRANSMISSION fluid does not like heat..... (it also doesn't like temperatures below 150)
The life of the transmission fluid (and the transmission itself) diminishes proportionate to the increased temperature it operates at. Again, another proven fact. ( the A6 transmission operates best and lasts longer when the fluid is in the 175 +/- 15 range)
05-08-2017, 08:46 PM
OH GOD!!! When is this topic gonna die!?!?!?
