Don6775

After stopping routinely for dinner, doors would not unlock. After several attempts, finally got into trunk, and then into car using pull handle in trunk. Press start button and dash lights go out, starter did not turn over but there was a contineous clicking sound coming from pass. side of engine compartment. After jumping off, drove 12-15 miles home, alt. guage reading 13.5 volts. 2 hrs later, car unlocked and started as normal. Same thing after another 2 hrs, except this time I noticed the check engine light is on. I'll get the code read in the morning, but anyone want to take a guess at what the problem might be?

Also, 18 months ago I had a similar (but not necessarily identical) problem. The Chev dealer changed the starter and the battery and charged $130 for a 3 yr battery, $500 for a reman starter, and $450 labor to replace them. Do these costs seem appropriate? Anyone know what the warranty is on a chev-supplied reman starter? Also is it really THAT difficult to install a starter and battery? While on the subject, anything unique about installing a new battery in an 06 corvette?

UPDATES:
1st off, there was no indication of a keyfob problem and my wife ALSO had her kf in her purse, so it was not a kf battery problem. Also, we were not in the restaraunt for more than 30-45 min.

This AM the car unlocked and cranked as normal, except that now the display indicated both Check Engine, AND Check Oil Level.
Check Engine codes referred ONLY to low voltage errors from last night, and an ?ERG? indication pointing to a possible low vacume condition. My tech said that the battery looked good and that the vacum condition should not cause the car to not crank or cut off once running, unless it gets much much worse. The oil level was actually normal, and there is 20% oil life remaining. He reset the codes, and everything currently APPEARS normal.

BTW, none of the memory settings were lost during or since these events.

So, ... what gives, and what about the above mentioned dealer parts and service prices?

Update2:
Don't think this car likes restaraunts! LOL.
Since everything appeared normal, decided to take it to dinner again last night. Car unlocked just fine. When I tried to crank it though, it said No KeyFob Detected. Running late, so took another. Just tried it again after sitting for 20 hrs, and it unlocked and cranked with no problem, using same KFob. Both battery itself and positive connector at fuse block to block currently show 12 3/4 volts.

4SUMERZ

Don,

This sounds strangely enough as if you have a bad connection on your starting system, either at the battery terminals, or at the starter solenoid or the alternator, or maybe a grounding issue at the starter.
Check for all that, because if your car is running and the alternator is only putting out 13.5 volts, there is a wiring issue. It shoulfd be at least 14.5 volts if the alternator is working correctly. Chances are, the alternator is OK.
Because it's a fairly new battery, that shouldn't be the issue, because the car will start occasionally. A bad battery, then it would never start once it's down in power.

Good luck

schizcat

What year is your car?

Sorry, i re-read post and see that you have an 06

RonC7

Change the key fob batteries just to eliminate them as a problem. They only last a few years.

Don6775

Thanks to everyone who responded.

As a result, I've changed the batteries in both my KeyFob and my wife's.
The elecrical connections were also cleaned, and it was discovered that
the neg connection at the battery MAY have been a little loose. In
attempting to disconnect the cable, the connector turned a bit on the post,
so this was also tighened.

Since then, a week has gone by without any further incidents.
Thanks again for your help.

P.S. I understand that the alternators on some C6's put out around 13.5 volts
while others put out around 14.5. Consequently, I don't believe that the
alternator output was related to my problem.