TomdaToolman

In this day and age of high tech materials and CNC machining, I can't help but believe there isn't a better method of correcting the C6's rearend steer under heavy load/power and high speed stability for street use without the transference of road noise and vibrations. Pinning doesn't trip my trigger and I believe there has to be a better way.

In reading various threads on this forum, I was surprised to learn that urethane bushings aren't much firmer than oem rubber. Stepping up to delrin or aluminum is too extreme for most street users and too noisy with no way to conveniently lube the delrin.

Larger thicker outside diameter inner sleeves (that the bolt goes thru), like what was mentioned was available for the GTO in a post, seems like a logical step forward. The larger/thicker inner metal sleeve would reduce the thickness of the urethane thus reducing the amount of deflection. Has this been tried? What do you think? What about a 1/4" to 3/8" thick sleeve in the middle sandwiched by a stiff durometer urethane on each side? I'm interested in hearing your feedback, thanks!

CI GS

I'm interested in this as well, and I've seen comments about the urethane not being much stiffer than factory rubber, but in my view that's rubbish. Whilst urethane bushings are not as as stiff as Delrin and nothing can compare to the monoball setup, polyurethane bushings are significantly stiffer than the OEM rubber bushings. Even though the durometer rating for urethane bushings can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, the softest urethane bushings still will be much stiffer than the stock bushings, and they come with the added benefits of easier installation and a longer life, to boot. For the price, they're one of the best deals out there for these cars. That's the way I'm going to go in the near future. I'm just trying to figure out which manufacturer sells the best kit.

TomdaToolman

It would be interesting to find out the durometer differences in urethane bushings from various manufacturers and suppliers and how they varied. The graphite impregnated/infused urethane seems like one possible option, with zercs, but there should be a version that limts deflection more. I agree, the monoball setup is top choice for the track, just think there should be a street friendlier version. Know what I mean Vern?

Unreal

The monoballs drive and ride great though. So besides cost, I don't see a big downside to street use. They are just expensive.

mikeCsix

Depends on where you live, the roads in Arizona are much nicer than the roads in the Pacific Northwest.

TomdaToolman

No doubt, they're even worse on this island!

CI GS

Good to know. How are those lubricated, and how long do they last on the street? Even though they are very expensive, I was actually tempted to buy the rear set from LG, until I read that there some machining involved to install them. That put me off.

TomdaToolman

My concern would be the road noise on road trips and cruising? I'm all for great precise predictable handling, but I don't want it at the expense of feeling and hearing every pebble and imperfection in the road. Can someone who has used monoballs on the street share their actual experience, please?

AORoads

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ar-review.html

Unreal

Like I said, I've driven them on the street, and didn't notice any negative side effects on street.

sccaGT1racer

The Van Steel delrin kit is noise free and very well engineered. Pot holes will be harsher but smooth road driving is almost like stock. I haven't tried mono ball on a corvette so I have no input on them. I have used them in race cars. they do need inspection and replacement because they do wear.

Unreal

Van steel kit looks nice
Ridetech has a kit too
http://www.ridetech.com/info/2015/06...-bushing-kits/

Or LG.

mikeCsix

What are your wheel alignment specs? Slight rear toe-in will help. The delrin I'm used to (marine applications) doesn't need lubrication. I'm using delrin upper shock mounts without lubrication, so far so good. The challenge was getting the torque set correctly, then keeping the setting.

CI GS

OP, have you decided what you're going to do as yet with this?
I'm still undecided (actually more confused) after researching this further. I would probably do the rear spherical bearings, and I'm not so much worried about the harsher ride, but I don't want to have to pull my suspension down again in a few years to replace bearings that might not be available or be out of production, or some other BS. What I can't figure out is why these things can't be designed so that they can be greased? I guess then they would be really expensive, and the bearing manufacurers would be able to sell many replacement bearing kits?
The other thing is that, at more than double the cost of the Ridetech Delrin kit, they're very expensive to start with, and the LG kit (which seems to be preferred over the Pfadt) requires some machining for the kit to be installed. That makes those prohibitive to me.
I'll probably go with either the Pfadt rear "Drag Race" kit, or the Ridetech Delrin. I hate buying something that make my car squeaky though, and I've read about Delrin bushings being brittle and grenading during installation, which is wierd. If Ridetech offered a rear control arm Delrin bushing kit at roughly half the cost of the full kit, I would've bought it already. The Van Steel (or is that "steal") Delrin bushings are available separately, but they add up to be nearly as expensive as the spherical bushings! What a conundrum...

Unreal

Pfadt stuff shouldn't come anywhere near your car.

CI GS

Crap, that's one less option then.
What's the deal with the LG's, with machining the control arms?

TomdaToolman

I think you're thinking of the old Pfadt, from what I have heard. I'm planning on Pfadt headers, 3" crossovers and sway bars.

TomdaToolman

[QUOTE=CI GS;1594958716]OP, have you decided what you're going to do as yet with this?
I'm still undecided (actually more confused) after researching this further. I would probably do the rear spherical bearings, and I'm not so much worried about the harsher ride, but I don't want to have to pull my suspension down again in a few years to replace bearings that might not be available or be out of production, or some other BS. What I can't figure out is why these things can't be designed so that they can be greased? I guess then they would be really expensive, and the bearing manufacurers would be able to sell many replacement bearing kits?
The other thing is that, at more than double the cost of the Ridetech Delrin kit, they're very expensive to start with, and the LG kit (which seems to be preferred over the Pfadt) requires some machining for the kit to be installed. That makes those prohibitive to me.
I'll probably go with either the Pfadt rear "Drag Race" kit, or the Ridetech Delrin. I hate buying something that make my car squeaky though, and I've read about Delrin bushings being brittle and grenading during installation, which is wierd. If Ridetech offered a rear control arm Delrin bushing kit at roughly half the cost of the full kit, I would've bought it already. The Van Steel (or is that "steal") Delrin bushings are available separately, but they add up to be nearly as expensive as the spherical bushings! What a conundrum...[/QUOTE

I'm still thinking and evaluating on my options, or lack thereof.

Check out this thread, https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ar-review.html

Reading the above link/thread, there seems to be no real machining, just a little grinding/sanding and enlarging an existing hole for the LGs.
I have plenty of other mods to keep me busy before getting to this one!

Unreal

Find a LG dealer that will just do a core swap with arms that have them installed. Thats the best way to do it.

New/Old on the other brand, doesn't matter. Same designs, same poor performance.

CI GS

Thanks. I'll have to check to see if they offer them installed in the control arms (Van Steel does that with their delrins) and buy a set like that, because it's just cost prohibitive to ship mine up there. And, from recent experience, everything I send to the US gets a drill bit run through it anyways, at least in North Carolina...