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Old 06-21-2017, 06:55 PM
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rallysport1970
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Default solenoid

So I too had the infamous "Service Charging System" display. I deduced that it was the solenoid after doing some research here. The pic is what I found. I ordered a replacement solenoid off Ebag.

My question is what type of grease do I use on the back side of the solenoid? I'm assuming it would have to be heat resistant. Does anyone out there know?

Thanks for replies!

Rally
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Old 06-21-2017, 07:41 PM
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4SUMERZ
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Originally Posted by rallysport1970
So I too had the infamous "Service Charging System" display. I deduced that it was the solenoid after doing some research here. The pic is what I found. I ordered a replacement solenoid off Ebag.

My question is what type of grease do I use on the back side of the solenoid? I'm assuming it would have to be heat resistant. Does anyone out there know?

Thanks for replies!

Rally
Use dielectric grease. If you have headers, wrap the starter/solenoid in a heat resistant blanket (Thermo-Tec 14150 Starter Heat Shield) (7" X 22" Wrap Kit) as in this pic.

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Old 06-21-2017, 11:15 PM
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Dcasole
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Picture of mine ... not sure the starter wraps would protect against this ....
The starter is fine .......

Dave
Old 06-21-2017, 11:51 PM
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HOXXOH
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Originally Posted by Dcasole



Picture of mine ... not sure the starter wraps would protect against this ....
The starter is fine .......

Dave
Wrapping the starter instead of the exhaust is like wearing a coat inside the house in Winter because you left the door open.
Old 06-22-2017, 09:56 AM
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BigBlok502
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Damage like this on solenoids looks more like it is from high current draw through a loose connection resulting in extreme heat. I doubt header heat would be concentrated on the wire lugs.

Old 06-22-2017, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBlok502
Damage like this on solenoids looks more like it is from high current draw through a loose connection resulting in extreme heat. I doubt header heat would be concentrated on the wire lugs.

I agree .... so many people say header heat is the cause of starter failure ....i have more room between my headers and starter than when I had my stock system , not to mention that on the stock system you have the HOT cat jammed up between the firewall and the engine block ....
There is nothing wrong with my starter ... it was not heat from the headers , it was the selonoid and a bad connection that caused it's failure ...i am sure that others have blamed the same failure on header heat

Dave
Old 06-22-2017, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dcasole
I agree .... so many people say header heat is the cause of starter failure ....i have more room between my headers and starter than when I had my stock system , not to mention that on the stock system you have the HOT cat jammed up between the firewall and the engine block ....
There is nothing wrong with my starter ... it was not heat from the headers , it was the selonoid and a bad connection that caused it's failure ...i am sure that others have blamed the same failure on header heat

Dave
A cause that few people realize, is tension on the cable to the battery. Bakelite cracks fairly easy and the cable is a direct link between the engine and body. Any flex between the two needs to have slack in the cable to avoid tension.
If you replace the battery or disconnect the cable, you need to assure that the cable has the maximum slack available.
Old 06-22-2017, 04:36 PM
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mikeCsix
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Wrapping the starter instead of the exhaust is like wearing a coat inside the house in Winter because you left the door open.
Old 06-22-2017, 06:38 PM
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rallysport1970
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Default Many Thanks

Thanks for all the posts guys. The new solenoid arrived today and I installed it after work. The car starts and runs fine now. I paid $24.95 for the part on Ebag. Shipping was free. So I fixed my car for a few bucks and a little bit of time.

I'm very happy to hear her roar again. I was thinking about some heat wrap but after reading your posts about a lose connection causing the heat, it made sense. Because the fried part was only around the terminal where the battery connected. nothing else had been hot. I tightened everything down to make sure nothing was loose going back in.

As far as I know I have stock exhaust and did not have to remove anything. It does take a bit of finagling to get it out and back in but just move it around a bit and you'll get it. Thanks again for the info guys.

Peace Out!

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