Top post battery terminals won’t tighten
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Top post battery terminals won’t tighten
The top post factory terminals are flimsy and won’t tighten anymore due to the metal cracking under the tightening nut. I know I can buy the whole replacement cables with terminals but the same problem will likely occur again. Has anyone replaced just the terminals with high quality terminals?
What is the best way to fix this issue that has worked well and is a fix instead of a patch?
Thanks
What is the best way to fix this issue that has worked well and is a fix instead of a patch?
Thanks
Last edited by ZMechanism; 07-11-2017 at 09:44 PM.
#2
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 16,664
Received 1,193 Likes
on
1,052 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15
Chop the terminals off and replace them with something nicer. That's what I did, no problems since.
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#5
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 16,664
Received 1,193 Likes
on
1,052 Posts
St. Jude Donor '15
I used these but looks like they aren't on there anymore.. anything similar should work totally fine.
#6
Safety Car
Well, my approach is probably overkill.
When I do a battery relocation (mostly on other cars, not Corvettes) or I'm doing a resto-mod on something older, I use "military spec top post battery terminals." I generally use Grote 84-9581 on the positive terminal, Grote 84-9580 on the negative terminal. I find that lead terminals on lead posts have fewer corrosion problems from galvanic action with dissimilar metals. Just don't overtighten the things, they can crack from being over tightened.
Those terminals give you a bolt and nut(s) that ring lugs (even a stack of lugs) can be secured to.
I usually remove the bolt for the cable(s) on those terminal clams and use a stainless steel bolt/nuts/washers of appropriate size and known quality. Honestly, I've never checked the ones I pull out to see if they are stainless or not, so I might be wasting a bit there. One nut holds the bolt in the terminal, the ring lug from the cable is sandwiched between washers between that nut and another nut to hold the cable.
You can buy battery cables with ring lugs on both ends, or you can make your own. I generally prefer to make mine so that they are an exact fit for the application. A local source has appropriate wire, and he has the big crimper/press to crimp the copper tube ring lugs. I tin the end of the cable with electrical solder, and tin the inside of tube the wire goes in the copper ring lug as well. Then I take my measured, double checked for length cable with the tinned ends and ring lugs with the tinned, prepared wire holes to the guy and have him crimp on the lugs with the big crimper/press. After crimping, I heat the things one more time until the solder melts/bubbles, and I flow a bit more electrical solder in. I finish everything with heat shrink tubing around the soldered joint on the ring lug.
I've never had one of my setups come back with a problem in the terminals or cables. Even race cars, with battery "kill switches" and multiple heavy cables with multiple ring lugs haven't had issues anywhere when I've done things this way. Also no problems with high power audio installations, and no problems on motor homes with multiple batteries, inverters and other high power DC loads.
Oh, and if you're autocrossing or you just want covers to protect and prevent anything from shorting on the posts, you can find plastic covers for those terminals. I think some folks on Amazon even sell "kits" that include those terminals, ring lugs and covers.
When I do a battery relocation (mostly on other cars, not Corvettes) or I'm doing a resto-mod on something older, I use "military spec top post battery terminals." I generally use Grote 84-9581 on the positive terminal, Grote 84-9580 on the negative terminal. I find that lead terminals on lead posts have fewer corrosion problems from galvanic action with dissimilar metals. Just don't overtighten the things, they can crack from being over tightened.
Those terminals give you a bolt and nut(s) that ring lugs (even a stack of lugs) can be secured to.
I usually remove the bolt for the cable(s) on those terminal clams and use a stainless steel bolt/nuts/washers of appropriate size and known quality. Honestly, I've never checked the ones I pull out to see if they are stainless or not, so I might be wasting a bit there. One nut holds the bolt in the terminal, the ring lug from the cable is sandwiched between washers between that nut and another nut to hold the cable.
You can buy battery cables with ring lugs on both ends, or you can make your own. I generally prefer to make mine so that they are an exact fit for the application. A local source has appropriate wire, and he has the big crimper/press to crimp the copper tube ring lugs. I tin the end of the cable with electrical solder, and tin the inside of tube the wire goes in the copper ring lug as well. Then I take my measured, double checked for length cable with the tinned ends and ring lugs with the tinned, prepared wire holes to the guy and have him crimp on the lugs with the big crimper/press. After crimping, I heat the things one more time until the solder melts/bubbles, and I flow a bit more electrical solder in. I finish everything with heat shrink tubing around the soldered joint on the ring lug.
I've never had one of my setups come back with a problem in the terminals or cables. Even race cars, with battery "kill switches" and multiple heavy cables with multiple ring lugs haven't had issues anywhere when I've done things this way. Also no problems with high power audio installations, and no problems on motor homes with multiple batteries, inverters and other high power DC loads.
Oh, and if you're autocrossing or you just want covers to protect and prevent anything from shorting on the posts, you can find plastic covers for those terminals. I think some folks on Amazon even sell "kits" that include those terminals, ring lugs and covers.
#7
Drifting
Here is a good read
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nal-in-c6.html
I used the Stingers that he shows. No issues, just have to make sure that the positive wires are in all the way before tightening. They also have a top bolt that you can remove for adding components. I was able to hook up my battery tender cables to them and now they are easy plug n play.
Like the others have said, get rid of the factory stuff and get some good quality aftermarket types. Look at what they use for car stereo installs. Those are usually the better brands.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nal-in-c6.html
I used the Stingers that he shows. No issues, just have to make sure that the positive wires are in all the way before tightening. They also have a top bolt that you can remove for adding components. I was able to hook up my battery tender cables to them and now they are easy plug n play.
Like the others have said, get rid of the factory stuff and get some good quality aftermarket types. Look at what they use for car stereo installs. Those are usually the better brands.
#8
Take a screwdriver and tap down the stock fastener until it sits at the bottom of the terminals and then tighten.... They tend to slip off if you just slide them on and the tighten... works great!
The following users liked this post:
C6_Racer_X (07-13-2017)
#9
Race Director
I use a deep-well socket. Get one big enough to fit over the battery posts, put the terminals on, tap the socket with a hammer and it'll push the terminals all they way to the bottom and it will usually tighten right up.
The following users liked this post:
C6_Racer_X (07-13-2017)
#10
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Maryland
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts