C6 EBCM Computer Removal
09-08-2017, 10:21 AM
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
C6 EBCM Computer Removal
Hey all...I'm getting the dreaded ABS/TCS error on my 2007 base C6. Dealer diagnosed as a failed EBCM and wants ~ $2k to replace.
I want to try switching out the computer only without taking off the pump before I bite the bullet.
I have easy access to the top 2 and lower left (front nearest) hex screws but have not figured out a way to get the lower right (rear nearest) hex screw off the EBCM.
Access is tight even after removing the front driver wheel and I have fairly large hands. I've tried extensions, multiflex ratchets with hex ***** and extended screw drivers to no avail.
Was hoping to avoid taking the entire unit out which I've read could strip brake lines.
Thanks in advance.
I want to try switching out the computer only without taking off the pump before I bite the bullet.
I have easy access to the top 2 and lower left (front nearest) hex screws but have not figured out a way to get the lower right (rear nearest) hex screw off the EBCM.
Access is tight even after removing the front driver wheel and I have fairly large hands. I've tried extensions, multiflex ratchets with hex ***** and extended screw drivers to no avail.
Was hoping to avoid taking the entire unit out which I've read could strip brake lines.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by RSVLT2; 09-08-2017 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Title clarity
09-08-2017, 10:54 AM
#2
Safety Car
I can't help with getting to all the screws. I did change one out on my C5, so l know it can be difficult. I am curious what code you are getting.
09-08-2017, 11:07 AM
#3
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Glad it happened in my garage and not while out and about.
Just installed a new door latch last week and had to replace a water-pump about 6 months ago. Getting frustrated with this car but still love it.
Last edited by RSVLT2; 09-08-2017 at 11:08 AM.
11-01-2017, 10:53 PM
#4
Intermediate
Did you get this resolved? What did you pay for the part? I have found AC Delco Part #89060341. Is that what you used?
I am having a similar issue and would like to know how much trouble it was to JUST replace the computer. I had my mechanic remove mine, but I don't think it can be repaired like the C5s. I have not seen it, but he said it was pretty well sealed. I am thinking the entire computer will need to be replaced and then I will need the dealership to program it to my vehicle.
Thanks.
I am having a similar issue and would like to know how much trouble it was to JUST replace the computer. I had my mechanic remove mine, but I don't think it can be repaired like the C5s. I have not seen it, but he said it was pretty well sealed. I am thinking the entire computer will need to be replaced and then I will need the dealership to program it to my vehicle.
Thanks.
11-01-2017, 11:14 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Did you get this resolved? What did you pay for the part? I have found AC Delco Part #89060341. Is that what you used?
I am having a similar issue and would like to know how much trouble it was to JUST replace the computer. I had my mechanic remove mine, but I don't think it can be repaired like the C5s. I have not seen it, but he said it was pretty well sealed. I am thinking the entire computer will need to be replaced and then I will need the dealership to program it to my vehicle.
Thanks.
I am having a similar issue and would like to know how much trouble it was to JUST replace the computer. I had my mechanic remove mine, but I don't think it can be repaired like the C5s. I have not seen it, but he said it was pretty well sealed. I am thinking the entire computer will need to be replaced and then I will need the dealership to program it to my vehicle.
Thanks.
11-02-2017, 08:19 AM
#6
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Did you get this resolved? What did you pay for the part? I have found AC Delco Part #89060341. Is that what you used?
I am having a similar issue and would like to know how much trouble it was to JUST replace the computer. I had my mechanic remove mine, but I don't think it can be repaired like the C5s. I have not seen it, but he said it was pretty well sealed. I am thinking the entire computer will need to be replaced and then I will need the dealership to program it to my vehicle.
Thanks.
I am having a similar issue and would like to know how much trouble it was to JUST replace the computer. I had my mechanic remove mine, but I don't think it can be repaired like the C5s. I have not seen it, but he said it was pretty well sealed. I am thinking the entire computer will need to be replaced and then I will need the dealership to program it to my vehicle.
Thanks.
Unresolved for now. I picked up a part on ebay for a great price. There are at least 3 parts numbers that I'm aware of. I sourced the one that matched the number for mine in hopes it wont require programming.
I plan to do the install while replacing the power steering pump and high pressure line in another week or two.
Will keep you posted.
11-02-2017, 01:23 PM
#9
Intermediate
Yes that is the same location. Quite difficult to get to the bottom screws, especially the one toward the alternator. There is a good YouTube video on it with tips on getting it out. I just searched "C6 EBCM", but this guy took the entire assembly out. Not recommended. You just need to replace the computer module.
UPDATE: Found the link on forum: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-video.html
My mechanic was able to remove the EBCM (module only) he did not take the pump/valve assembly off. He said that it was not needed, because you then get into messing with the break lines and creating more work than necessary. Also there is potential damage to the break lines if not careful.
Our original intent was to remove the part and then send it out for repair. However, I do not think it can be repaired like the C5 version. Additionally, the car will not start with the EBCM removed. So, he is putting it back on and I will take the car back until I have a viable replacement.
Please let me know if you can drive the car with the new part before programming (I assume it will need to be programmed). If not, I would assume that we would need to tow it to a dealership. Any direction would be great.
Thanks.
UPDATE: Found the link on forum: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-video.html
My mechanic was able to remove the EBCM (module only) he did not take the pump/valve assembly off. He said that it was not needed, because you then get into messing with the break lines and creating more work than necessary. Also there is potential damage to the break lines if not careful.
Our original intent was to remove the part and then send it out for repair. However, I do not think it can be repaired like the C5 version. Additionally, the car will not start with the EBCM removed. So, he is putting it back on and I will take the car back until I have a viable replacement.
Please let me know if you can drive the car with the new part before programming (I assume it will need to be programmed). If not, I would assume that we would need to tow it to a dealership. Any direction would be great.
Thanks.
Last edited by Thundar; 11-02-2017 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Update
The following users liked this post:
Cherokee Nation (11-02-2017)
11-21-2017, 11:16 PM
#10
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Yes that is the same location. Quite difficult to get to the bottom screws, especially the one toward the alternator. There is a good YouTube video on it with tips on getting it out. I just searched "C6 EBCM", but this guy took the entire assembly out. Not recommended. You just need to replace the computer module.
UPDATE: Found the link on forum: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-video.html
My mechanic was able to remove the EBCM (module only) he did not take the pump/valve assembly off. He said that it was not needed, because you then get into messing with the break lines and creating more work than necessary. Also there is potential damage to the break lines if not careful.
Our original intent was to remove the part and then send it out for repair. However, I do not think it can be repaired like the C5 version. Additionally, the car will not start with the EBCM removed. So, he is putting it back on and I will take the car back until I have a viable replacement.
Please let me know if you can drive the car with the new part before programming (I assume it will need to be programmed). If not, I would assume that we would need to tow it to a dealership. Any direction would be great.
Thanks.
UPDATE: Found the link on forum: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-video.html
My mechanic was able to remove the EBCM (module only) he did not take the pump/valve assembly off. He said that it was not needed, because you then get into messing with the break lines and creating more work than necessary. Also there is potential damage to the break lines if not careful.
Our original intent was to remove the part and then send it out for repair. However, I do not think it can be repaired like the C5 version. Additionally, the car will not start with the EBCM removed. So, he is putting it back on and I will take the car back until I have a viable replacement.
Please let me know if you can drive the car with the new part before programming (I assume it will need to be programmed). If not, I would assume that we would need to tow it to a dealership. Any direction would be great.
Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
Thundar (11-22-2017)
11-29-2017, 11:33 PM
#11
Intermediate
OK, latest update. IT'S FIXED!
I found a used EBCM off a 2008 Z06, my mechanic replaced it, fired the car up and everything was communicating just fine. No prior codes in the EBCM and everything was communicating. So it appears that we did not need to have it flashed. I guess the ABS does not need to have the VIN coded to it like the Engine Controls. Plus, I believe one Forum user stated something about they only need to flash a NEW ECBM.
So, my mechanic took it for a test drive and no codes immediately came up. Previously, as soon as you got 10 feet moving forward you would get the ABS/TC/AH messages and lights. He drove it for about 7 miles and then the ABS only came on. So, he read the code and received the C0040 indicating the RF Wheel Hub assembly error.
In his initial diagnostics, he was reading the resistance from the RF ABS sensor just out of range and most likely causing the fault. That was the only code he had before, but the DIC was setting off the ABS/TC/AH messages. He replaced the Wheel Hub Assembly, the codes cleared and all was good. Took it for another test drive and all was good. For reference, I used OEM Wheel Hub Assembly and not an aftermarket one.
One thing he pointed out was that when you are removing the EBCM was to remove the top screws, then disconnect the cable, set it to the side (not much slack), then remove the bottom screws. He also removed the shield like the video above. The hardest screw is the bottom rear or closest to the driver's seat.
Also, going forward, I put a terminal disconnect on my battery and will hook the battery tender directly to the battery. This way the charge is not running through the entire vehicle.
PM if you have any questions.
I hope this helps. Thanks.
I found a used EBCM off a 2008 Z06, my mechanic replaced it, fired the car up and everything was communicating just fine. No prior codes in the EBCM and everything was communicating. So it appears that we did not need to have it flashed. I guess the ABS does not need to have the VIN coded to it like the Engine Controls. Plus, I believe one Forum user stated something about they only need to flash a NEW ECBM.
So, my mechanic took it for a test drive and no codes immediately came up. Previously, as soon as you got 10 feet moving forward you would get the ABS/TC/AH messages and lights. He drove it for about 7 miles and then the ABS only came on. So, he read the code and received the C0040 indicating the RF Wheel Hub assembly error.
In his initial diagnostics, he was reading the resistance from the RF ABS sensor just out of range and most likely causing the fault. That was the only code he had before, but the DIC was setting off the ABS/TC/AH messages. He replaced the Wheel Hub Assembly, the codes cleared and all was good. Took it for another test drive and all was good. For reference, I used OEM Wheel Hub Assembly and not an aftermarket one.
One thing he pointed out was that when you are removing the EBCM was to remove the top screws, then disconnect the cable, set it to the side (not much slack), then remove the bottom screws. He also removed the shield like the video above. The hardest screw is the bottom rear or closest to the driver's seat.
Also, going forward, I put a terminal disconnect on my battery and will hook the battery tender directly to the battery. This way the charge is not running through the entire vehicle.
PM if you have any questions.
I hope this helps. Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
RSVLT2 (11-30-2017)
11-30-2017, 11:09 AM
#12
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
OK, latest update. IT'S FIXED!
I found a used EBCM off a 2008 Z06, my mechanic replaced it, fired the car up and everything was communicating just fine. No prior codes in the EBCM and everything was communicating. So it appears that we did not need to have it flashed. I guess the ABS does not need to have the VIN coded to it like the Engine Controls. Plus, I believe one Forum user stated something about they only need to flash a NEW ECBM.
So, my mechanic took it for a test drive and no codes immediately came up. Previously, as soon as you got 10 feet moving forward you would get the ABS/TC/AH messages and lights. He drove it for about 7 miles and then the ABS only came on. So, he read the code and received the C0040 indicating the RF Wheel Hub assembly error.
In his initial diagnostics, he was reading the resistance from the RF ABS sensor just out of range and most likely causing the fault. That was the only code he had before, but the DIC was setting off the ABS/TC/AH messages. He replaced the Wheel Hub Assembly, the codes cleared and all was good. Took it for another test drive and all was good. For reference, I used OEM Wheel Hub Assembly and not an aftermarket one.
One thing he pointed out was that when you are removing the EBCM was to remove the top screws, then disconnect the cable, set it to the side (not much slack), then remove the bottom screws. He also removed the shield like the video above. The hardest screw is the bottom rear or closest to the driver's seat.
Also, going forward, I put a terminal disconnect on my battery and will hook the battery tender directly to the battery. This way the charge is not running through the entire vehicle.
PM if you have any questions.
I hope this helps. Thanks.
I found a used EBCM off a 2008 Z06, my mechanic replaced it, fired the car up and everything was communicating just fine. No prior codes in the EBCM and everything was communicating. So it appears that we did not need to have it flashed. I guess the ABS does not need to have the VIN coded to it like the Engine Controls. Plus, I believe one Forum user stated something about they only need to flash a NEW ECBM.
So, my mechanic took it for a test drive and no codes immediately came up. Previously, as soon as you got 10 feet moving forward you would get the ABS/TC/AH messages and lights. He drove it for about 7 miles and then the ABS only came on. So, he read the code and received the C0040 indicating the RF Wheel Hub assembly error.
In his initial diagnostics, he was reading the resistance from the RF ABS sensor just out of range and most likely causing the fault. That was the only code he had before, but the DIC was setting off the ABS/TC/AH messages. He replaced the Wheel Hub Assembly, the codes cleared and all was good. Took it for another test drive and all was good. For reference, I used OEM Wheel Hub Assembly and not an aftermarket one.
One thing he pointed out was that when you are removing the EBCM was to remove the top screws, then disconnect the cable, set it to the side (not much slack), then remove the bottom screws. He also removed the shield like the video above. The hardest screw is the bottom rear or closest to the driver's seat.
Also, going forward, I put a terminal disconnect on my battery and will hook the battery tender directly to the battery. This way the charge is not running through the entire vehicle.
PM if you have any questions.
I hope this helps. Thanks.
Thats great! I had to take the drive rack out to get mine in. I hope to have everything back together in a week or so and give it a try.
Interesting point about the battery tender. This problem started a few months after a had mine on a tender while I was away for work. Glad to hear it worked out for you and thanks for sharing the info.
Last edited by RSVLT2; 11-30-2017 at 11:10 AM.
12-11-2017, 09:01 AM
#14
Intermediate
The EBCM for the C6 cannot be repaired. They are completely sealed. Ispoke directly to ABFixer and they only handle C5s. Also your vehicle will not start without the ECBM connected. Search this forum or eBay for a replacement. Make sure you match model year or close. I believe earlier C6 are different from later models. I found mine for around $200 shipped. Best of luck.
12-17-2017, 03:14 PM
#15
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Finally put everything back together and test drove. So far no codes. Did a bit of "spirited" driving which set off the active handling like expected. Looks like the computer swap did the trick with no need to flash.
I had to pull the rack in order to get the computer out. It was pretty easy to switch the EBCM out with the rack removed. I installed a new TurnOne powersteering pump and new high pressure hose while at it. Next project is new brakes and rotors.
I had to pull the rack in order to get the computer out. It was pretty easy to switch the EBCM out with the rack removed. I installed a new TurnOne powersteering pump and new high pressure hose while at it. Next project is new brakes and rotors.
12-18-2017, 11:06 AM
#16
Intermediate
Finally put everything back together and test drove. So far no codes. Did a bit of "spirited" driving which set off the active handling like expected. Looks like the computer swap did the trick with no need to flash.
I had to pull the rack in order to get the computer out. It was pretty easy to switch the EBCM out with the rack removed. I installed a new TurnOne powersteering pump and new high pressure hose while at it. Next project is new brakes and rotors.
I had to pull the rack in order to get the computer out. It was pretty easy to switch the EBCM out with the rack removed. I installed a new TurnOne powersteering pump and new high pressure hose while at it. Next project is new brakes and rotors.
10-25-2018, 09:59 PM
#17
Safety Car
sorry to revive this dead post.. but i swapped my ecbm, abs module. out for a used one.. i also bought this but when it comes to the abs bleeding part it gives me cant communicate with the control unit.. but i can go into the ecbm with the tool and see all the infos, no codes, no errors thru the dtc.. any ideas?
it trys to pulse the abs, lights come on the dash saying service abs then kicks that error on the scanner.
it trys to pulse the abs, lights come on the dash saying service abs then kicks that error on the scanner.
11-02-2018, 02:00 AM
#18
Intermediate
Sorry, but we had no experience with bleeding the lines. We only replaced the electronic/computer part of the ECBM. Hopefully, someone else can help. Keep us updated, I would like to know the outcome. Best of Luck.
11-02-2018, 09:47 AM
#19
sorry to revive this dead post.. but i swapped my ecbm, abs module. out for a used one.. i also bought this but when it comes to the abs bleeding part it gives me cant communicate with the control unit.. but i can go into the ecbm with the tool and see all the infos, no codes, no errors thru the dtc.. any ideas?
it trys to pulse the abs, lights come on the dash saying service abs then kicks that error on the scanner.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it trys to pulse the abs, lights come on the dash saying service abs then kicks that error on the scanner.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for any time I have the car in run mode, motor off with a tech II on the car, will put a 10amp charger on the battery, so the battery voltage does not drop to time out/ low voltage clip the modules.
11-09-2018, 02:19 AM
#20
if you unhooked the abs lines you need a tech 2 tool in order to get the abs to cycle and bleed the system, you cannot get a proper bleed without the tech 2.