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Replacing Clutch Master Cylinder

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Old Feb 12, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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Default Replacing Clutch Master Cylinder

When replacing clutch master cylinder on 05 base. I have read the new OEM cylinder comes prebled. Is the cylinder full of fluid? Do u guys usually also bench bleed them or just install them right out of the box. Also will I need to bleed the system when done?
I sure don't wanna have to pull down exhaust and tunnel plate.
I've read a lot of threads but haven't found any definite answers.
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Old Feb 12, 2018 | 06:15 PM
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Ttt
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Old Feb 13, 2018 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fly N Low
When replacing clutch master cylinder on 05 base. I have read the new OEM cylinder comes prebled. Is the cylinder full of fluid? Do u guys usually also bench bleed them or just install them right out of the box. Also will I need to bleed the system when done?
I sure don't wanna have to pull down exhaust and tunnel plate.
I've read a lot of threads but haven't found any definite answers.
These instructions should help.... http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf
Even though it's for a Tick master cylinder, procedure for OEM is essentially the same.

Last edited by Dave S; Feb 13, 2018 at 01:56 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 01:20 AM
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Default Any answers?

Fly N Low did you ever find out any answers to this? Did you do the MC replacement???
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 06:23 AM
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Default replacing clutch master cyl.

Originally Posted by MigMarVel
Fly N Low did you ever find out any answers to this? Did you do the MC replacement???
Yes I have replaced a couple of them now. ( I do work on other peoples cars ) Yes they come full of fluid and bled. After you install the master cyl. and pump the peddle a few times you should be good to go. The coupler is a pain to get attached I do it with the clip in the coupler which makes it harder to snap together but I have not figured out a way to hold the coupler together and put the clip in. So I guess you could introduce some air in the system if you have a lot of problems getting the coupler together however I have done at least 3 add had a hard time with the coupler and have not had any air problems.

Do the ranger method every time you change your oil and you probably wont have anymore problems.
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 09:16 AM
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Fly N Low, thank you for the response. I am picking up the part tomorrow and doing this job this week. If you can help with a few more questions:

After you installed the new MC, did you bleed the clutch from slave cylinder? If so, did you bleed before or after pumping pedal after MC install?
For some reason, my Vette doesn't have this clip on my current setup (maybe it fell or lost). Does the clip go on top of couple or bottom? Does the new MC come with clip? Thanks
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 05:28 PM
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I replace the support with a quartermaster billet support and a remote bleeder. The ranger method does nothing but exercise your left leg.
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Old Jul 9, 2020 | 12:56 PM
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My 2000 C5 just got clutch problems. It has 37000 miles and has been relatively problem free for the past 15 years that I’ve had it. Just recently the clutch started hanging up on release, getting noticeably worse in only 2 or 3 days of driving. I’ve done the “ranger” fluid swap and have gone from black fluid to almost clear DOT4 in the clutch reservoir. If anything though, the clutch seems worse now. I have to physically pull the clutch off the floor. I’m an amateur mechanic... thoughts on a master cylinder swap? Any way to check if it’s the master or slave? I don’t race or anything, so I’m happy to go with an OEM master instead of the TICK. And any advice or insight into how to bleed the system? I’ve read about some owners installing a remote bleeder... And where did you order the GM master Cylinder?

thanks in advance!
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by VF201jc
My 2000 C5 just got clutch problems. It has 37000 miles and has been relatively problem free for the past 15 years that I’ve had it. Just recently the clutch started hanging up on release, getting noticeably worse in only 2 or 3 days of driving. I’ve done the “ranger” fluid swap and have gone from black fluid to almost clear DOT4 in the clutch reservoir. If anything though, the clutch seems worse now. I have to physically pull the clutch off the floor. I’m an amateur mechanic... thoughts on a master cylinder swap? Any way to check if it’s the master or slave? I don’t race or anything, so I’m happy to go with an OEM master instead of the TICK. And any advice or insight into how to bleed the system? I’ve read about some owners installing a remote bleeder... And where did you order the GM master Cylinder?

thanks in advance!
Hey VF, i will do my best to help. First of all, my experience with this problem was with a C6, not a C5 like you mentioned. There may be differences between both that you might want to look into. Perhaps search a C5 forum only for people with similar problems. Apart from that, I swapped the stock master cylinder with an OEM master and the clutch worked perfectly. No need to bleed the system in my case. Cannot help you if your slave cylinder is actually the problem. I imagine in that case you would probably be better off replacing both if you were going to swap the slave. Try youtube if you decide to bleed the slave on a C5. I ordered my c6 oem master cylinder from the local chevy dealership. They can look up the correct part using your vin. The master cylinder for a c6 cost less than $140. Sry couldnt be more help.
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Old Jul 10, 2020 | 08:16 AM
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Thanks! I am leaning toward swapping the master too. I feel that swapping the slave is beyond my garage and I have looked into bleeding the system on a C5. Lots of good info on the C5 forum on bleeding...too bad Chevy made it so hard to do! I'll post more when I decide what to do. As you can tell, she's not my dailey driver, so I've got to find time for it. Thanks again!
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 12:27 PM
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Thanks to all who chimed in. Turns out the master cylinder was bad. Rubber seals deteriorated with age I guess. New master and good to go. Glad I didn’t need to tear into the slave cylinder, but if I had, I would’ve certainly added the remote bleeder.
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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 3X2
I replace the support with a quartermaster billet support and a remote bleeder. The ranger method does nothing but exercise your left leg.
if the ranger method was nothing but a leg work out, the fluid in the master cylinder would alway stay clean and clear.

Ive read that line a bunch of times here...clearly some people dont understand dilution and fluid transfer.
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by SurfnSun
if the ranger method was nothing but a leg work out, the fluid in the master cylinder would alway stay clean and clear.

Ive read that line a bunch of times here...clearly some people dont understand dilution and fluid transfer.
and pumping the pedal does nothing to change the fluid in the line or the slave cylinder. You keep pumping the clutch pedal, I'll continue to bleed the whole system and replace all the fluid with new fluid.
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 3X2
and pumping the pedal does nothing to change the fluid in the line or the slave .
wrong. Dilution is the answer to why it works. Is it the most efficient? Absolutely not, but in the end you can dilute it back to clean.

if the fluid didn’t move, the fluid in the master would always stay clean.

Last edited by SurfnSun; Jul 26, 2020 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2022 | 07:44 PM
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Dredging up an old thread. Replacing the master cylinder in my 2008, got it in and seated all good. I can compress the feed line from the master into the slave line but I can't get that C clip in to save my life. After failing to get it in after pushing the lines together, I tried it with the clip in place and can't enough pressure to push through the clip. Is there a trick that I'm missing? I ran out of time today so I'm going to order a couple of spare clips and try again next weekend.

Advice appreciated!
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Killermullet
Dredging up an old thread. Replacing the master cylinder in my 2008, got it in and seated all good. I can compress the feed line from the master into the slave line but I can't get that C clip in to save my life. After failing to get it in after pushing the lines together, I tried it with the clip in place and can't enough pressure to push through the clip. Is there a trick that I'm missing? I ran out of time today so I'm going to order a couple of spare clips and try again next weekend.

Advice appreciated!
This was by far the most frustrating thing when I changed my own clutch (with the help of friends) one time. Never again. I'll pay the extra money and leave it to the pros.

What I ultimately had to do was keep the clip in place, and then with the car on a lift get both hands up above my head and press together with all my strength. I finally got it to pop into place, but that was an exhausting ordeal. I'm 6' 4", so my hands are not small by any means, so there were plenty of scrapes in the process. It also helped to let out a yell like you're going to smash the car into a billion pieces if it didn't comply.
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Old Oct 10, 2022 | 10:32 AM
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I sometimes have to unbolt the master cylinder and bungee it out of the way, remove the l/f wheeliner, and with one hand on the slave line and one hand reaching through from the outside, push them together. Other times I remove the line from the master and then connect the two lines then reconnect at the master cylinder.
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Old Oct 12, 2022 | 03:11 PM
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I guess I got lucky and maybe having smaller hands helped, I was able to do it by having the clip halfway in, then squeezed both lines together and popped clip in.
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Old Oct 12, 2022 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by furious465
I guess I got lucky and maybe having smaller hands helped, I was able to do it by having the clip halfway in, then squeezed both lines together and popped clip in.
You definitely got lucky. I tried that, but needed a third hand, apparently, and managed to almost lose the clip.
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Old Nov 14, 2022 | 07:34 AM
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I just completed a Tick Clutch Master installation on my 13 C6 Z06 and I think I solved the clip installation issue... adding detail here to help others. I could not find this information anywhere else.

The slave line has a quick disconnect connector. The Clutch Master line plugs into the quick disconnect connector, and is held in place with a wire clip. When I de-installed the connector, I removed the clip.

When I reinstalled the clip, I did not realize that the the clip can go in to the quick disconnect connector 2 different ways. I installed it in the "wrong" position (90 degrees out of the correct position). This made the clip too tight and the master line could not plug into the quick disconnect connector. After about 30 min of trying to get the clip in, I regrouped, and removed the clip. I rotated it 90 degrees, reinstalled it into the connector, and the master line snapped into the quick disconnect connector. Problem solved.
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