Which flywheel for LS9 clutch on LS3
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Which flywheel for LS9 clutch on LS3
Hey guys,
I currently picked up a brand new LS9 twin disk clutch for my 2013 GS. I知 pretty sure the LS3 flywheel won稚 work with this clutch. What would be my options for flywheels? I知 trying to avoid lightweight flywheels because of loss of torque. Thanks.
I currently picked up a brand new LS9 twin disk clutch for my 2013 GS. I知 pretty sure the LS3 flywheel won稚 work with this clutch. What would be my options for flywheels? I知 trying to avoid lightweight flywheels because of loss of torque. Thanks.
#2
Team Owner
You don't lose torque with light flywheel. Options are katech or maybe monster but probably only the katech. I would sell it and just use the money towards a different clutch
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13BoostedGS (02-25-2018)
#3
Le Mans Master
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13BoostedGS (02-25-2018)
#4
Let back it up a bit, and why are you installing a LS9 clutch on the LS3 to begin with.
If its due to power, then a Mantic 9000 will be a hell of lot better clutch instead.
The oem LS9 Sachs organic material clutch is a good OEM clutch that can be slipped well, but in the long run, not one that can will hold up long term with a lot of abuse instead. Hence the disc in the pressure plate has a good safety shied to itself it it blow apart (the pressure plate cage), but when the other disc on the flywheel side lets loose and blows apart, it's parts loves to blow out through the side of the bell housing instead.
Now regarding flywheel weight. The lighter the flywheel, the more Hp your going to makes since there is less reciprocating mass (not LS9 clutch is heavy itself), but at the same point, since you have less rotating mass being spun via the motor, the easier it is to stall the motor on starts as well.
Point blank would get ECS on the phone for a Increased tension pressure plate Mantic 9000 clutch kit (has more holding force with it Cerametallic discs) with pilot bearing installed in the flywhee, and the Slave TB plastic support replaced with a billet aluminum one. The kit come with new bolts too, so in the end will be the full kit and all the parts needed for a clutch install.
Note, if your old pilot bearing thrashed the end of the torque tube input shaft, you may need to replace the shaft as well.
Info on the billet bearing support
http://monsterclutches.com/billet-bearing-install
And torque tube shaft is part number 25, and would need to be replace if the pilot bearing went south in the fly wheel to tear/wear the end of it out, or the spines are worn out from the old clutch plates instead.
[/img]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb138/criscillisj/torquetube.png[/img]
And if you did not install a remote bleeder line, now would be the time to install a one (go with the Tick bleeder line since it has proven to be the one with the least amount of problems).
Last edited by Dano523; 02-26-2018 at 04:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
13BoostedGS (02-26-2018)
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Let back it up a bit, and why are you installing a LS9 clutch on the LS3 to begin with.
If its due to power, then a Mantic 9000 will be a hell of lot better clutch instead.
The oem LS9 Sachs organic material clutch is a good OEM clutch that can be slipped well, but in the long run, not one that can will hold up long term with a lot of abuse instead. Hence the disc in the pressure plate has a good safety shied to itself it it blow apart (the pressure plate cage), but when the other disc on the flywheel side lets loose and blows apart, it's parts loves to blow out through the side of the bell housing instead.
Now regarding flywheel weight. The lighter the flywheel, the more Hp your going to makes since there is less reciprocating mass (not LS9 clutch is heavy itself), but at the same point, since you have less rotating mass being spun via the motor, the easier it is to stall the motor on starts as well.
Point blank would get ECS on the phone for a Increased tension pressure plate Mantic 9000 clutch kit (has more holding force with it Cerametallic discs) with pilot bearing installed in the flywhee, and the Slave TB plastic support replaced with a billet aluminum one. The kit come with new bolts too, so in the end will be the full kit and all the parts needed for a clutch install.
Note, if your old pilot bearing thrashed the end of the torque tube input shaft, you may need to replace the shaft as well.
Info on the billet bearing support
http://monsterclutches.com/billet-bearing-install
And torque tube shaft is part number 25, and would need to be replace if the pilot bearing went south in the fly wheel to tear/wear the end of it out, or the spines are worn out from the old clutch plates instead.
[/img]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb138/criscillisj/torquetube.png[/img]
And if you did not install a remote bleeder line, now would be the time to install a one (go with the Tick bleeder line since it has proven to be the one with the least amount of problems).
If its due to power, then a Mantic 9000 will be a hell of lot better clutch instead.
The oem LS9 Sachs organic material clutch is a good OEM clutch that can be slipped well, but in the long run, not one that can will hold up long term with a lot of abuse instead. Hence the disc in the pressure plate has a good safety shied to itself it it blow apart (the pressure plate cage), but when the other disc on the flywheel side lets loose and blows apart, it's parts loves to blow out through the side of the bell housing instead.
Now regarding flywheel weight. The lighter the flywheel, the more Hp your going to makes since there is less reciprocating mass (not LS9 clutch is heavy itself), but at the same point, since you have less rotating mass being spun via the motor, the easier it is to stall the motor on starts as well.
Point blank would get ECS on the phone for a Increased tension pressure plate Mantic 9000 clutch kit (has more holding force with it Cerametallic discs) with pilot bearing installed in the flywhee, and the Slave TB plastic support replaced with a billet aluminum one. The kit come with new bolts too, so in the end will be the full kit and all the parts needed for a clutch install.
Note, if your old pilot bearing thrashed the end of the torque tube input shaft, you may need to replace the shaft as well.
Info on the billet bearing support
http://monsterclutches.com/billet-bearing-install
And torque tube shaft is part number 25, and would need to be replace if the pilot bearing went south in the fly wheel to tear/wear the end of it out, or the spines are worn out from the old clutch plates instead.
[/img]http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb138/criscillisj/torquetube.png[/img]
And if you did not install a remote bleeder line, now would be the time to install a one (go with the Tick bleeder line since it has proven to be the one with the least amount of problems).