Best BTR cam for my LS2 6AT
01-27-2020, 11:56 AM
#1
Best BTR cam for my LS2 6AT
**I know im going to get roasted about keeping the stock converter but there is only so much money i can spend on my car without my wife noticing, she already wants a new kitchen set but i said we cant afford it lol**
2007 Z51 6AT, current power mods, Kooks headers w/catless x-pipe, Fast 102 intake, Airaid CAI, B&B route 66 axleback. Car is my summer daily 95% highway driving, no track use, but get on it once in a while. Based on what ive heard from local guys is a BTR setup is the best way to go, while inside i will also put in a new timing chain, trunion upgrade, springs retainers locks seals and pushrods (not sure what size is best). I really want it to be noticeable the car is cammed so nothing conservative but obviously cant get too crazy with the stock converter and the last thing i want is to not enjoy driving it. BTR said i was ok with going with their LS1/LS2 stage 2 cam, A local shop also recommended putting in a LS3 stage 1 for a more aggressive sound. Really having a hard time deciding any help is appreciated.
2007 Z51 6AT, current power mods, Kooks headers w/catless x-pipe, Fast 102 intake, Airaid CAI, B&B route 66 axleback. Car is my summer daily 95% highway driving, no track use, but get on it once in a while. Based on what ive heard from local guys is a BTR setup is the best way to go, while inside i will also put in a new timing chain, trunion upgrade, springs retainers locks seals and pushrods (not sure what size is best). I really want it to be noticeable the car is cammed so nothing conservative but obviously cant get too crazy with the stock converter and the last thing i want is to not enjoy driving it. BTR said i was ok with going with their LS1/LS2 stage 2 cam, A local shop also recommended putting in a LS3 stage 1 for a more aggressive sound. Really having a hard time deciding any help is appreciated.
01-27-2020, 12:20 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
**I know im going to get roasted about keeping the stock converter but there is only so much money i can spend on my car without my wife noticing, she already wants a new kitchen set but i said we cant afford it lol**
2007 Z51 6AT, current power mods, Kooks headers w/catless x-pipe, Fast 102 intake, Airaid CAI, B&B route 66 axleback. Car is my summer daily 95% highway driving, no track use, but get on it once in a while. Based on what ive heard from local guys is a BTR setup is the best way to go, while inside i will also put in a new timing chain, trunion upgrade, springs retainers locks seals and pushrods (not sure what size is best). I really want it to be noticeable the car is cammed so nothing conservative but obviously cant get too crazy with the stock converter and the last thing i want is to not enjoy driving it. BTR said i was ok with going with their LS1/LS2 stage 2 cam, A local shop also recommended putting in a LS3 stage 1 for a more aggressive sound. Really having a hard time deciding any help is appreciated.
2007 Z51 6AT, current power mods, Kooks headers w/catless x-pipe, Fast 102 intake, Airaid CAI, B&B route 66 axleback. Car is my summer daily 95% highway driving, no track use, but get on it once in a while. Based on what ive heard from local guys is a BTR setup is the best way to go, while inside i will also put in a new timing chain, trunion upgrade, springs retainers locks seals and pushrods (not sure what size is best). I really want it to be noticeable the car is cammed so nothing conservative but obviously cant get too crazy with the stock converter and the last thing i want is to not enjoy driving it. BTR said i was ok with going with their LS1/LS2 stage 2 cam, A local shop also recommended putting in a LS3 stage 1 for a more aggressive sound. Really having a hard time deciding any help is appreciated.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-6154-c...s2-na-cam.aspx
Last edited by xBoostx; 01-27-2020 at 12:22 PM.
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Navy Blue 210 (01-27-2020)
01-28-2020, 06:59 AM
#5
[QUOTE=Canuck204;1600863113]**I know im going to get roasted about keeping the stock converter but there is only so much money i can spend on my car without my wife noticing, she already wants a new kitchen set but i said we cant afford it lol**
Dude.... She’s gonna notice a cam....
Dude.... She’s gonna notice a cam....
01-28-2020, 07:57 AM
#6
Safety Car
With stock stall, a BTR Stage 1 for LS1/LS2 is the most you would want to go.
But my go-to for an LS cam is Cam Motion (they actually do the grinds for many of the companies selling performance cams and they know their stuff). The LS2 Stage 3 Camshaft (218/224-116+3) would be the largest you could go. What is nice is they also offer this in both a "low" and "high" lift version. The "low" lift version can be used with stock valve springs and would be great on a budget.
You could also call Cam Motion and ask what they would recommend.
Regardless of what cam you go with, you will want to get a dyno tune.
I previously had a 2006 GTO with the LS2. It was a 4-speed auto. With a Cam Motion stage 2 cam (very mild), headers, and X-air intake, I made 400 wheel HP after a dyno tune. Typical stock wheel HP is 330. Car still drove like stock.
Side Note: Never go back to any shop that is recommending an LS3 cam (which is made specifically for rectangular port heads) to be used in a cathedral port engine, just for a more aggressive sound. Aggressive sound of a cam is based on the specs not if it was made for an LS3. On top of that, an LS3 cam would not be optimized for your type of heads (it would still work).
But my go-to for an LS cam is Cam Motion (they actually do the grinds for many of the companies selling performance cams and they know their stuff). The LS2 Stage 3 Camshaft (218/224-116+3) would be the largest you could go. What is nice is they also offer this in both a "low" and "high" lift version. The "low" lift version can be used with stock valve springs and would be great on a budget.
You could also call Cam Motion and ask what they would recommend.
Regardless of what cam you go with, you will want to get a dyno tune.
I previously had a 2006 GTO with the LS2. It was a 4-speed auto. With a Cam Motion stage 2 cam (very mild), headers, and X-air intake, I made 400 wheel HP after a dyno tune. Typical stock wheel HP is 330. Car still drove like stock.
Side Note: Never go back to any shop that is recommending an LS3 cam (which is made specifically for rectangular port heads) to be used in a cathedral port engine, just for a more aggressive sound. Aggressive sound of a cam is based on the specs not if it was made for an LS3. On top of that, an LS3 cam would not be optimized for your type of heads (it would still work).
Last edited by Spaceme1117; 01-28-2020 at 08:02 AM.
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01-28-2020, 01:30 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
With stock stall, a BTR Stage 1 for LS1/LS2 is the most you would want to go.
But my go-to for an LS cam is Cam Motion (they actually do the grinds for many of the companies selling performance cams and they know their stuff). The LS2 Stage 3 Camshaft (218/224-116+3) would be the largest you could go. What is nice is they also offer this in both a "low" and "high" lift version. The "low" lift version can be used with stock valve springs and would be great on a budget.
You could also call Cam Motion and ask what they would recommend.
Regardless of what cam you go with, you will want to get a dyno tune.
I previously had a 2006 GTO with the LS2. It was a 4-speed auto. With a Cam Motion stage 2 cam (very mild), headers, and X-air intake, I made 400 wheel HP after a dyno tune. Typical stock wheel HP is 330. Car still drove like stock.
Side Note: Never go back to any shop that is recommending an LS3 cam (which is made specifically for rectangular port heads) to be used in a cathedral port engine, just for a more aggressive sound. Aggressive sound of a cam is based on the specs not if it was made for an LS3. On top of that, an LS3 cam would not be optimized for your type of heads (it would still work).
But my go-to for an LS cam is Cam Motion (they actually do the grinds for many of the companies selling performance cams and they know their stuff). The LS2 Stage 3 Camshaft (218/224-116+3) would be the largest you could go. What is nice is they also offer this in both a "low" and "high" lift version. The "low" lift version can be used with stock valve springs and would be great on a budget.
You could also call Cam Motion and ask what they would recommend.
Regardless of what cam you go with, you will want to get a dyno tune.
I previously had a 2006 GTO with the LS2. It was a 4-speed auto. With a Cam Motion stage 2 cam (very mild), headers, and X-air intake, I made 400 wheel HP after a dyno tune. Typical stock wheel HP is 330. Car still drove like stock.
Side Note: Never go back to any shop that is recommending an LS3 cam (which is made specifically for rectangular port heads) to be used in a cathedral port engine, just for a more aggressive sound. Aggressive sound of a cam is based on the specs not if it was made for an LS3. On top of that, an LS3 cam would not be optimized for your type of heads (it would still work).
Last edited by xBoostx; 01-28-2020 at 01:36 PM.
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Canuck204 (01-29-2020)
01-28-2020, 09:13 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
I'm not a fan of big cams by any means. Choosing a cam based on how it sounds is not the way to go about it. A narrow LSA cam with mild duration is going to peak early and isn't worth the time and money it takes to do the swap.
If you're dealing with a 5K# truck, a cam with a narrow LSA and under 220 intake duration might make sense. Not something you'd want to bother with in a 3100# Vette though. Performance numbers under 2500 rpm mean absolutely nothing in a performance car. You're not towing anything with your Vette. When accelerating hard, you're past 2500 rpm in an instant anyway.
I had a 222/230 115+1 in one of my trucks a few years back. I ran it with and without a blower. Stock converter. It was in a 6L LQ4 with LS2 heads. Essentially an iron block LS2. No loss of low end, no crappy manners, no crappy fuel eco, or anything like that.
It the OP's case, I'd look at something like a 224/230 115+2 with lift around .600 on both sides. With a performance exhaust, wifey will notice. Not so much with a stock exhaust. It's not big enough to cause any noticeable low end power loss, but big enough to give you a nice bump in power.
If you're dealing with a 5K# truck, a cam with a narrow LSA and under 220 intake duration might make sense. Not something you'd want to bother with in a 3100# Vette though. Performance numbers under 2500 rpm mean absolutely nothing in a performance car. You're not towing anything with your Vette. When accelerating hard, you're past 2500 rpm in an instant anyway.
I had a 222/230 115+1 in one of my trucks a few years back. I ran it with and without a blower. Stock converter. It was in a 6L LQ4 with LS2 heads. Essentially an iron block LS2. No loss of low end, no crappy manners, no crappy fuel eco, or anything like that.
It the OP's case, I'd look at something like a 224/230 115+2 with lift around .600 on both sides. With a performance exhaust, wifey will notice. Not so much with a stock exhaust. It's not big enough to cause any noticeable low end power loss, but big enough to give you a nice bump in power.
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Navy Blue 210 (01-29-2020)
01-29-2020, 04:51 PM
#10
Pro
I'm not a fan of big cams by any means. Choosing a cam based on how it sounds is not the way to go about it. A narrow LSA cam with mild duration is going to peak early and isn't worth the time and money it takes to do the swap.
If you're dealing with a 5K# truck, a cam with a narrow LSA and under 220 intake duration might make sense. Not something you'd want to bother with in a 3100# Vette though. Performance numbers under 2500 rpm mean absolutely nothing in a performance car. You're not towing anything with your Vette. When accelerating hard, you're past 2500 rpm in an instant anyway.
I had a 222/230 115+1 in one of my trucks a few years back. I ran it with and without a blower. Stock converter. It was in a 6L LQ4 with LS2 heads. Essentially an iron block LS2. No loss of low end, no crappy manners, no crappy fuel eco, or anything like that.
It the OP's case, I'd look at something like a 224/230 115+2 with lift around .600 on both sides. With a performance exhaust, wifey will notice. Not so much with a stock exhaust. It's not big enough to cause any noticeable low end power loss, but big enough to give you a nice bump in power.
If you're dealing with a 5K# truck, a cam with a narrow LSA and under 220 intake duration might make sense. Not something you'd want to bother with in a 3100# Vette though. Performance numbers under 2500 rpm mean absolutely nothing in a performance car. You're not towing anything with your Vette. When accelerating hard, you're past 2500 rpm in an instant anyway.
I had a 222/230 115+1 in one of my trucks a few years back. I ran it with and without a blower. Stock converter. It was in a 6L LQ4 with LS2 heads. Essentially an iron block LS2. No loss of low end, no crappy manners, no crappy fuel eco, or anything like that.
It the OP's case, I'd look at something like a 224/230 115+2 with lift around .600 on both sides. With a performance exhaust, wifey will notice. Not so much with a stock exhaust. It's not big enough to cause any noticeable low end power loss, but big enough to give you a nice bump in power.
A good tune with a 650 RPM idle will lope as much as you would want, amplified by exhaust choice
VS
A good tune with a 900 RPM idle with stock exhaust would be nearly undetectable if you wanted stealth.
A good time for the bi-modal exhaust switch, or cut outs. LOL
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old motorhead (01-29-2020)
01-29-2020, 06:23 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
I looked at BTR's website a few minutes ago. Haven't done that in a long time. I use custom specced cams on everything I do. Haven't bought a "shelf" cam in years.
Lo and behold, his Stage one LS2 cam is a 223/230 115+2. Very similar to what I recommended. When the OP mentioned a stage 1 Tooley cam, I mistakenly thought is was a 221/228 112+2 that is the stage 1 LS3 cam. My bad. That 223/230 Stage 1 LS2 cam is the BTR cam that I'd use in the OP's situation. It will be fine with a stock converter. Like Navy Blue mentioned, your tuner can tune in more cam noise if desired. I think BTR's stage 2 LS2 cam is a little big for a stock stall A6.
Lo and behold, his Stage one LS2 cam is a 223/230 115+2. Very similar to what I recommended. When the OP mentioned a stage 1 Tooley cam, I mistakenly thought is was a 221/228 112+2 that is the stage 1 LS3 cam. My bad. That 223/230 Stage 1 LS2 cam is the BTR cam that I'd use in the OP's situation. It will be fine with a stock converter. Like Navy Blue mentioned, your tuner can tune in more cam noise if desired. I think BTR's stage 2 LS2 cam is a little big for a stock stall A6.
01-29-2020, 08:21 PM
#12
I have a '06 LS2 with a A6 trans. It has texas speed headers, and a 21st Century Muscle Car cam kit installed, 228/232 cam. All installed and tuned by them. My car still has the stock torque converter and I absolutely love it. No bucking or surging at all. Idle is nice and has a decent chop to it.
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Canuck204 (01-30-2020)
01-29-2020, 09:15 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2014
Location: Bossier City Louisiana
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The texas speed 224r and the 228r are both very nice stock converter friendly cams. I have an 05 with the a4 and near identical mods as the OP. I have the 224r with 112 lsa. Very nice chop and daily driver mannerisms with the stock converter. My car did 419/402 on a dynojet.
01-30-2020, 04:10 PM
#14
Former Vendor
BTR stage 1
LS STAGE 1 N/A CAM 223/230 .610/.573
I wouldn't recommend any of their bigger cams on a stock converter.
Texas Speed has some nice options too
220R DURATION 220/220 LIFT 600"/600"
224R DURATION 224/224 LIFT 600"600"
LS STAGE 1 N/A CAM 223/230 .610/.573
I wouldn't recommend any of their bigger cams on a stock converter.
Texas Speed has some nice options too
220R DURATION 220/220 LIFT 600"/600"
224R DURATION 224/224 LIFT 600"600"
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Canuck204 (01-30-2020)