Drag tire advice wanted for 2011 GS
#1
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Drag tire advice wanted for 2011 GS
Ok... So I have a 2011 GS stick car making 706 RWHP and 635 TQ. At the track I had wheel hop issues with my existing 345/30/19 Nitto NT05R at 16lbs pressure. 1/4 mile pass speed is 129/130mph. My 0-60 foot times are hideous... I bought the Forgestar Drag pack with 17 x 11 rears that I put 28 x 10.5 M&H slicks on with the 185/55/17 fronts and that triggered an "engine drag control active" message and my ABS activates when I brake. I swapped the rear wheels back to my 19's and all that goes away... I have been told I need to get away from a radial on the rear to absorb the wheel hop problem, but then I have also had someone else say they don't recommend a drag slick on a stick car... SOOOO WTH??? I have put in various search words on Forum but not found anything that really addresses my situation. Would appreciate any feedback!
#2
Melting Slicks
Ok... So I have a 2011 GS stick car making 706 RWHP and 635 TQ. At the track I had wheel hop issues with my existing 345/30/19 Nitto NT05R at 16lbs pressure. 1/4 mile pass speed is 129/130mph. My 0-60 foot times are hideous... I bought the Forgestar Drag pack with 17 x 11 rears that I put 28 x 10.5 M&H slicks on with the 185/55/17 fronts and that triggered an "engine drag control active" message and my ABS activates when I brake. I swapped the rear wheels back to my 19's and all that goes away... I have been told I need to get away from a radial on the rear to absorb the wheel hop problem, but then I have also had someone else say they don't recommend a drag slick on a stick car... SOOOO WTH??? I have put in various search words on Forum but not found anything that really addresses my situation. Would appreciate any feedback!
As far as wheel hop I recommend double adjustable shocks hopefully your rear spring is still good.
I recommend hard rear lower control arm bushings as well like delrin.
When you change tire height changes must be program in your tune to keep active handling happy.
Last edited by xBoostx; 04-22-2018 at 01:49 PM.
The following users liked this post:
JonBanister (04-22-2018)
#3
Le Mans Master
You can pull your ABS fuse at the track when you are running your drag pack. The diameters of the front and rear wheels are throwing off the AH. Could get dangerous if it activates at high speeds.
A bias ply slick is easier on the drivetrain for a manual car. a full slick may be more likely to break something.
A bias ply slick is easier on the drivetrain for a manual car. a full slick may be more likely to break something.
The following users liked this post:
JonBanister (04-22-2018)
#4
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Program changes??
Drag radials work better for auto, bias ply are best with manuals though I prefer bias ply for my auto at the track i get very consistent times.
As far as wheel hop I recommend double adjustable shocks hopefully your rear spring is still good.
I recommend hard rear lower control arm bushings as well like delrin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkrH4l_zt2Y
When you change tire height changes must be program in your tune to keep active handling happy.
As far as wheel hop I recommend double adjustable shocks hopefully your rear spring is still good.
I recommend hard rear lower control arm bushings as well like delrin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkrH4l_zt2Y
When you change tire height changes must be program in your tune to keep active handling happy.
#5
Instructor
I am a fan of Hoosier QTP. Your brakes will limit your wheel and tire selection. You should be able to drop the pressures in your rears down to 10-12 pounds with no problem on the radials to make them work. I trap 131-132 with 470 RWHP on the hoosiers.