Future coil over problems?
04-25-2018, 08:53 PM
#1
Cruising
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Future coil over problems?
Hello Everyone.Time to replace mag-shocks.Coilovers look interesting.However, concerned about moving the cars weight from the strong frame to the shock top mounts.Wonder if the areas strong enough long term.Thanks for your thoughts..
04-25-2018, 09:30 PM
#5
What car, and hence if a GS with F55, then could be making a huge mistake instead.
On a base car, the F55 was ok at best, but when it was added to say a GS with z52 suspension components, was a total different ball game instead.
Simply put, nothing wrong with a coil over system on the vet, so long as you have the talent to set up one/tune it correctly to begin with.
On a base car, the F55 was ok at best, but when it was added to say a GS with z52 suspension components, was a total different ball game instead.
Simply put, nothing wrong with a coil over system on the vet, so long as you have the talent to set up one/tune it correctly to begin with.
04-25-2018, 09:52 PM
#6
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Thank you.Mines a base 05'auto.Just can't justify the cost of replacing these ridiculously expensive parts that were not that great to begin with.Might go Bilsten and simulators..Asking a local shop if the can tune out the F55.Waiting on an answer.
04-26-2018, 11:23 PM
#7
To delete the F55 using a tech II
Also, enough of us have Tech II's, so if you list your location, should be someone local that could stop by to not only delete the F55 module before you swap the shocks, but delete your DRL's as well.
Hence from the above tech II work, isntead of USA, you change the BCM over to Mexico instead, then in the secondary options list, you will have a T62 option that will display as well (DLR delete option that will not show up in the USA list), select it to give it an asterisk, then hit save. Now when you start the car in the day time, the DLR's will not come on.
As for the F55 shocks, would really like to know the reason that your pulling them in the first place (very doubtful that they are worn out, or leaking to start with).
If you are going to Z51 option the suspension, then leave them in play. Hence swap the front trans spring to a FE3, install Z51 sways front and back, then flash the F55 module firmware to that of a GS with F55 option isntead.
Also, enough of us have Tech II's, so if you list your location, should be someone local that could stop by to not only delete the F55 module before you swap the shocks, but delete your DRL's as well.
Hence from the above tech II work, isntead of USA, you change the BCM over to Mexico instead, then in the secondary options list, you will have a T62 option that will display as well (DLR delete option that will not show up in the USA list), select it to give it an asterisk, then hit save. Now when you start the car in the day time, the DLR's will not come on.
As for the F55 shocks, would really like to know the reason that your pulling them in the first place (very doubtful that they are worn out, or leaking to start with).
If you are going to Z51 option the suspension, then leave them in play. Hence swap the front trans spring to a FE3, install Z51 sways front and back, then flash the F55 module firmware to that of a GS with F55 option isntead.
Last edited by Dano523; 04-26-2018 at 11:26 PM.
04-27-2018, 01:33 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
This is with the aluminum framed Z06. Yours is steel. Probably strong enough.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxTIkgC4-xs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxTIkgC4-xs
That is one heck of a beating. Good on LG for making some fantastic parts and showing them off.
04-27-2018, 11:53 PM
#11
Hence even on the base models, the suspension is more about road back feel, and with pot hole type bumps, your going to get a ton of road feed back isntead. Even worse, with low profile tires, even with the OEM rims forged, your still going to bend rims on larger type pot holes/bumps as well.
So you can play with the suspension, but got a feeling that the roads your running are a touch to rough to start with/ hitting such at too high of speeds, and even if your resolve the suspension problem to a degree, since going to end up with bend rims isntead.
04-28-2018, 10:52 PM
#13
At 70K, your end links where due for a replacement around 30K ago.
Hence even the Moog end likes will only last around 40K before they start to make noise from becoming loose, and will need to be replaced again.
As for OEM or Moogs, it the barrel section that becomes loose on both (not the bodies), so one will not out last the other, and it really boils down to weight, with the OEM's being lighter isntead.
Also, with 70k on the sway bar bushings, would be a good time to pull them to at least check them as well. If they are not falling apart/cracking, then clean the sway bar surfaces to the bushing, give the bushing a quick soap and water cleaning and let them dry, light coat of dielectric grease inside and out, and reinstall them.
If the bushing are starting to wear out/crack, then they less than $10 each, and will not kill you to spend the $35 to buy 4 new ones isntead.
As for the sway bar itself, most do not beat on the car enough to wear them out quickly, so kind of a 100K miles thing as you go through the entire suspension with new parts to tighten it back up isntead.
Hence even the Moog end likes will only last around 40K before they start to make noise from becoming loose, and will need to be replaced again.
As for OEM or Moogs, it the barrel section that becomes loose on both (not the bodies), so one will not out last the other, and it really boils down to weight, with the OEM's being lighter isntead.
Also, with 70k on the sway bar bushings, would be a good time to pull them to at least check them as well. If they are not falling apart/cracking, then clean the sway bar surfaces to the bushing, give the bushing a quick soap and water cleaning and let them dry, light coat of dielectric grease inside and out, and reinstall them.
If the bushing are starting to wear out/crack, then they less than $10 each, and will not kill you to spend the $35 to buy 4 new ones isntead.
As for the sway bar itself, most do not beat on the car enough to wear them out quickly, so kind of a 100K miles thing as you go through the entire suspension with new parts to tighten it back up isntead.
Last edited by Dano523; 04-28-2018 at 10:53 PM.