Katech Torquer vs Spin's 230/234 grind Cam on ls3
05-04-2018, 09:36 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
Some things to consider:
A stock LS3 air intake isn't that bad of a piece.
A stock LS3 intake manifold is actually pretty good.
Stock LS3 cylinder heads are actually really good.
Said that to say this....You're not going to get the big gains the LS2 guys get by upgrading all of the above. You don't need to spend money on upgrading the above items unless you're REALLY serious about extracting every last pony out of your build. Either of those cams along with LT headers and you're at 460 to 480 rwhp (M6 tranny on a dynojet). Add $4K worth of heads, intake, and CAI and you might pick up 15 or 20 hp. Not worth it in my book.
The LS3 is freakishly good as delivered. Just needs a few tweaks. Not a wholesale redo.
A stock LS3 air intake isn't that bad of a piece.
A stock LS3 intake manifold is actually pretty good.
Stock LS3 cylinder heads are actually really good.
Said that to say this....You're not going to get the big gains the LS2 guys get by upgrading all of the above. You don't need to spend money on upgrading the above items unless you're REALLY serious about extracting every last pony out of your build. Either of those cams along with LT headers and you're at 460 to 480 rwhp (M6 tranny on a dynojet). Add $4K worth of heads, intake, and CAI and you might pick up 15 or 20 hp. Not worth it in my book.
The LS3 is freakishly good as delivered. Just needs a few tweaks. Not a wholesale redo.
, good point. Something else to consider is just go with a supercharger kit and be done, then add a blower cam if you want that extra thump.
05-04-2018, 07:21 PM
#22
I read that same article sometime back and was very impressed with the Katech Torquer cam as well. I then read an article, somewhere where I don't recall, that made a point of how poor valve guides and seats of aftermarket heads are machined. I called and spoke with Tony Mamo about this which he confirmed, even Trickflo. He fixes all that and then some. I asked about the Katech Torquer cam and he said it was an older cam and that there are much better cams available now! He stated he has removed many Katech Torquer cams with better cams. Just passing on what I learned. If you must choose, choose wisely!
So if you happen to do alot of auto X stuff or run on really short tracks where RPM is primarily kept under 6K all the time its actually a good choice assuming you have stock LS7 heads. Most of the guys I speak to are street guys or street strip guys that are more interested in roll racing on the highway (or drag racing from a dig) and there are much better cam profiles for both. That type of application you don't want a cam that falls on its face at the higher RPM's.....you want something that will carry alot better in the 5-7000 portion of the tachometer.
So in short there is nothing wrong with the Torquer cam if you happen to be in the narrow sweet spot it was designed to address. Cams are very personal and that's why I mainly do custom cams for 90% of my clients....most have very specific needs in regards to application and drivability concerns and there is no such thing as a one size fits all when it comes to cam selection
-Tony
Last edited by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports; 05-04-2018 at 07:23 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports:
Brandon619 (05-05-2018),
TomdaToolman (05-04-2018)
05-06-2018, 02:20 PM
#23
Just to better clarify my biggest issue with the Torquer cam is it is designed specifically for the lower part of your power band and tends to really lay down at the upper RPM. However it's named appropriately as it does generate alot of low and mid RPM power and torque assuming your running stock heads which I feel the valve events are more suited for (pretty sure that was their target audience with that cam grind).
So if you happen to do alot of auto X stuff or run on really short tracks where RPM is primarily kept under 6K all the time its actually a good choice assuming you have stock LS7 heads. Most of the guys I speak to are street guys or street strip guys that are more interested in roll racing on the highway (or drag racing from a dig) and there are much better cam profiles for both. That type of application you don't want a cam that falls on its face at the higher RPM's.....you want something that will carry alot better in the 5-7000 portion of the tachometer.
So in short there is nothing wrong with the Torquer cam if you happen to be in the narrow sweet spot it was designed to address. Cams are very personal and that's why I mainly do custom cams for 90% of my clients....most have very specific needs in regards to application and drivability concerns and there is no such thing as a one size fits all when it comes to cam selection
-Tony
So if you happen to do alot of auto X stuff or run on really short tracks where RPM is primarily kept under 6K all the time its actually a good choice assuming you have stock LS7 heads. Most of the guys I speak to are street guys or street strip guys that are more interested in roll racing on the highway (or drag racing from a dig) and there are much better cam profiles for both. That type of application you don't want a cam that falls on its face at the higher RPM's.....you want something that will carry alot better in the 5-7000 portion of the tachometer.
So in short there is nothing wrong with the Torquer cam if you happen to be in the narrow sweet spot it was designed to address. Cams are very personal and that's why I mainly do custom cams for 90% of my clients....most have very specific needs in regards to application and drivability concerns and there is no such thing as a one size fits all when it comes to cam selection
-Tony
Thanks Tony. Ultimately I'm looking for something that will rev to 6900 without completely falling on it's face, but I would consider myself a back roads guy first, hdpe guy second, and roll race/drag strip guy 3rd (my goal with the trick head/xxxxx cam build is to trap something like 129-130 in the 1/4 mile) . I'd like to retain the ability to cruise in 5'th or 6th at 1200-1300 rpm with no surging at partial throttle. I'd also like to not lose any power at 1800-2k, and start to see the curves split at around 2500-2700.
Are these expectations unrealistic? I realize they may be, but if so, how far off are they, and where do my tradeoffs lie?
The following users liked this post:
Brandon619 (05-06-2018)
05-07-2018, 04:52 AM
#24
Thanks Tony. Ultimately I'm looking for something that will rev to 6900 without completely falling on it's face, but I would consider myself a back roads guy first, hdpe guy second, and roll race/drag strip guy 3rd (my goal with the trick head/xxxxx cam build is to trap something like 129-130 in the 1/4 mile) . I'd like to retain the ability to cruise in 5'th or 6th at 1200-1300 rpm with no surging at partial throttle. I'd also like to not lose any power at 1800-2k, and start to see the curves split at around 2500-2700.
Are these expectations unrealistic? I realize they may be, but if so, how far off are they, and where do my tradeoffs lie?
Are these expectations unrealistic? I realize they may be, but if so, how far off are they, and where do my tradeoffs lie?
You shouldn't even be cruising even at 1300 RPM.....but you could with the cam I would grind for you....but really a gear lower at that point would keep the engine happy and alot perkier at the same time. Some of this depends on rear gear ratio as well.
So yes....your goals are attainable but understand its going to drive well.....but not the same as "stock" which has negative overlap.
-Tony
Last edited by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports; 05-07-2018 at 04:53 AM.
05-07-2018, 02:58 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
Be careful and choose wisely...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-dyno-s-6.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nd-videos.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-dyno-s-6.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nd-videos.html
05-07-2018, 07:48 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
Be careful and choose wisely...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-dyno-s-6.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nd-videos.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-dyno-s-6.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nd-videos.html
05-07-2018, 08:01 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
And I also had a dyno graph overlay of the two in question. However, for a MAX effort LS3 NA setup.... you'll spend the same amount as a Magnacharger. My next car after all that waisted money, was spent on a supercharged Corvette!
Yes, I was one of the few that truly achieved over 500rwhp from a "cam only" LS3... but I'd never do it again. I was just chasing a number with an open checkbook. Go Magnacharger.
If you can keep your cam install / supporting mods / tune / labor... under ~$4K, sure go cam. But over that, sign me up for a SC !!!!!!!!!
Last edited by C6-LS2-MN6; 05-07-2018 at 08:10 PM.
05-07-2018, 09:28 PM
#28
Absolutely ... back to back comparison on same car / same setup / same week / same dyno .... totally outperformed the spin cam!
And I also had a dyno graph overlay of the two in question. However, for a MAX effort LS3 NA setup.... you'll spend the same amount as a Magnacharger. My next car after all that waisted money, was spent on a supercharged Corvette!
Yes, I was one of the few that truly achieved over 500rwhp from a "cam only" LS3... but I'd never do it again. I was just chasing a number with an open checkbook. Go Magnacharger.
If you can keep your cam install / supporting mods / tune / labor... under ~$4K, sure go cam. But over that, sign me up for a SC !!!!!!!!!
And I also had a dyno graph overlay of the two in question. However, for a MAX effort LS3 NA setup.... you'll spend the same amount as a Magnacharger. My next car after all that waisted money, was spent on a supercharged Corvette!
Yes, I was one of the few that truly achieved over 500rwhp from a "cam only" LS3... but I'd never do it again. I was just chasing a number with an open checkbook. Go Magnacharger.
If you can keep your cam install / supporting mods / tune / labor... under ~$4K, sure go cam. But over that, sign me up for a SC !!!!!!!!!
All this said if your looking to make ALOT of power.....a bunch more than whats feasibly possible N/A than the tradeoff's previously mentioned are just part of what it takes to make the big number. I own a a handful of hotrods....A C6Z06 which probably represents the pinnacle of naturally aspirated performance in a lightweight package and a 2nd Gen CTSV so before you guys tell me Im hating on boosted cars that's not true as I own one. A CTSV is a heavy hotrod.....4400 lbs or so and to get that kind of weight moving briskly requires a heap of horsepower....more than you can achieve naturally aspirated and retain any decent level of drivability so a boosted combo with that set-up is a no brainer and its easy to improve on the OEM supplied gear. However the reality is off boost it never really feels that impressive and it only really gets your attention when your throttle is buried to the floor and the boost gauge is pinned.....it's just a very different type of power delivery. Also don't forget most boosted set-up add a minimum of 100 lbs or so to the car which effects acceleration, braking, and handling (MPG's as well).
Point is there are always tradeoffs and going boosted has its fair share of them as well but the better your understanding of what your dealing with going in the better off you are at making decisions whether that's a good fit for you or not. Whats funny is I had my C6Z laid up awhile doing some suspension and brake upgrades and had driven my lightly modded CTSV for awhile which is no slouch.....130 ish trap speeds....got back into the C6 recently and the fun to drive and explosiveness of that combination was really apparent even though the car is technically slower (125 ish trap speeds as its still bone stock)....point is it just felt fantastic regarding the response and explosiveness of the power delivery and just begs you to drive it like a Hooligan!!
As I said....assuming you can get close to your goal naturally aspirated and still retain an acceptable level of drivability I would never rule out going there. Its a much more lively and fun combination to drive but there is a limit to what you can achieve N/A, especially when you factor in acceptable driving manners. At some point the power required to achieve certain goals with the car makes going boosted almost inevitable if your intent on making alot more than a naturally aspirate engine is capable of producing but none of this comes without some of the drawbacks previously mentioned. I do feel its a much better alternative than NOS however....although used sparingly that goes a long way also.....LOL
Hope this gives some of you guys a different perspective on this interesting and occasionally hotly debated topic.....LOL
=)
-Tony
Last edited by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports; 05-08-2018 at 04:02 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports:
Navy Blue 210 (05-11-2018),
Ragtop 99 (05-08-2018),
Suns_PSD (05-09-2018),
TomdaToolman (05-07-2018)
05-08-2018, 10:21 PM
#29
If you can get close to your goals naturally aspirated its always the way the go. Superchargers are great but they come with their fair share of drawbacks as well. They never feel very good off boost (which is 95% of your driving) as they typically have less compression than an optimized N/A package and a cam suited for when it's making boost. Not to mention off boost the blower is a very larger parasite always robbing power from your rear wheels just spinning it when its not making boost (unless your boost gauge is showing a positive number its just robbing power from your combination). An N/A car that's set up right is much more responsible/....immediate in its power delivery....more fun to drive in most respects and you never deal with heat soak either which always plagues boosted cars.....do a couple of runs in a row and your down 50 HP.
All this said if your looking to make ALOT of power.....a bunch more than whats feasibly possible N/A than the tradeoff's previously mentioned are just part of what it takes to make the big number. I own a a handful of hotrods....A C6Z06 which probably represents the pinnacle of naturally aspirated performance in a lightweight package and a 2nd Gen CTSV so before you guys tell me Im hating on boosted cars that's not true as I own one. A CTSV is a heavy hotrod.....4400 lbs or so and to get that kind of weight moving briskly requires a heap of horsepower....more than you can achieve naturally aspirated and retain any decent level of drivability so a boosted combo with that set-up is a no brainer and its easy to improve on the OEM supplied gear. However the reality is off boost it never really feels that impressive and it only really gets your attention when your throttle is buried to the floor and the boost gauge is pinned.....it's just a very different type of power delivery. Also don't forget most boosted set-up add a minimum of 100 lbs or so to the car which effects acceleration, braking, and handling (MPG's as well).
Point is there are always tradeoffs and going boosted has its fair share of them as well but the better your understanding of what your dealing with going in the better off you are at making decisions whether that's a good fit for you or not. Whats funny is I had my C6Z laid up awhile doing some suspension and brake upgrades and had driven my lightly modded CTSV for awhile which is no slouch.....130 ish trap speeds....got back into the C6 recently and the fun to drive and explosiveness of that combination was really apparent even though the car is technically slower (125 ish trap speeds as its still bone stock)....point is it just felt fantastic regarding the response and explosiveness of the power delivery and just begs you to drive it like a Hooligan!!
As I said....assuming you can get close to your goal naturally aspirated and still retain an acceptable level of drivability I would never rule out going there. Its a much more lively and fun combination to drive but there is a limit to what you can achieve N/A, especially when you factor in acceptable driving manners. At some point the power required to achieve certain goals with the car makes going boosted almost inevitable if your intent on making alot more than a naturally aspirate engine is capable of producing but none of this comes without some of the drawbacks previously mentioned. I do feel its a much better alternative than NOS however....although used sparingly that goes a long way also.....LOL
Hope this gives some of you guys a different perspective on this interesting and occasionally hotly debated topic.....LOL
=)
-Tony
All this said if your looking to make ALOT of power.....a bunch more than whats feasibly possible N/A than the tradeoff's previously mentioned are just part of what it takes to make the big number. I own a a handful of hotrods....A C6Z06 which probably represents the pinnacle of naturally aspirated performance in a lightweight package and a 2nd Gen CTSV so before you guys tell me Im hating on boosted cars that's not true as I own one. A CTSV is a heavy hotrod.....4400 lbs or so and to get that kind of weight moving briskly requires a heap of horsepower....more than you can achieve naturally aspirated and retain any decent level of drivability so a boosted combo with that set-up is a no brainer and its easy to improve on the OEM supplied gear. However the reality is off boost it never really feels that impressive and it only really gets your attention when your throttle is buried to the floor and the boost gauge is pinned.....it's just a very different type of power delivery. Also don't forget most boosted set-up add a minimum of 100 lbs or so to the car which effects acceleration, braking, and handling (MPG's as well).
Point is there are always tradeoffs and going boosted has its fair share of them as well but the better your understanding of what your dealing with going in the better off you are at making decisions whether that's a good fit for you or not. Whats funny is I had my C6Z laid up awhile doing some suspension and brake upgrades and had driven my lightly modded CTSV for awhile which is no slouch.....130 ish trap speeds....got back into the C6 recently and the fun to drive and explosiveness of that combination was really apparent even though the car is technically slower (125 ish trap speeds as its still bone stock)....point is it just felt fantastic regarding the response and explosiveness of the power delivery and just begs you to drive it like a Hooligan!!
As I said....assuming you can get close to your goal naturally aspirated and still retain an acceptable level of drivability I would never rule out going there. Its a much more lively and fun combination to drive but there is a limit to what you can achieve N/A, especially when you factor in acceptable driving manners. At some point the power required to achieve certain goals with the car makes going boosted almost inevitable if your intent on making alot more than a naturally aspirate engine is capable of producing but none of this comes without some of the drawbacks previously mentioned. I do feel its a much better alternative than NOS however....although used sparingly that goes a long way also.....LOL
Hope this gives some of you guys a different perspective on this interesting and occasionally hotly debated topic.....LOL
=)
-Tony
05-11-2018, 08:58 PM
#30
starting to lean towards something like a 227/237 114lsa. Would that retain good throttle response do you guys think? The specific cam I'm looking at is a titan 3 from cam motion.
05-11-2018, 10:18 PM
#31
Pro
My .02
Having had an Engine built with MMS TFS LS3 Heads &
Cam Motion LLSR with only +6* Exhaust Split.
(HR equivalent 237/243) I would suggest
Cam Motion Custom 227/235 .650"/.630" 114+3
The TFS LS3 flow more than stock from slightly
Smaller Intake Port and have a considerably better
E/I Ratio, I would use the MMS 1.7 ratio Yella Terra
Rockers with the 10 mm bolt upgrade.
A +8* Exhaust Split with a slightly wider (114+3) LSA
will drive very nice @ low rpm on the street and trade
A little low end for smoother Idle and a little better
carry up top. The Cylinder Heads and a little extra
Lift will aid carry as well.
Not an expert, just my long term observations and
limited experience, and like most other opinions
Worth what was paid for it LOL.
05-11-2018, 10:31 PM
#32
My .02
Having had an Engine built with MMS TFS LS3 Heads &
Cam Motion LLSR with only +6* Exhaust Split.
(HR equivalent 237/243) I would suggest
Cam Motion Custom 227/235 .650"/.630" 114+3
The TFS LS3 flow more than stock from slightly
Smaller Intake Port and have a considerably better
E/I Ratio, I would use the MMS 1.7 ratio Yella Terra
Rockers with the 10 mm bolt upgrade.
A +8* Exhaust Split with a slightly wider (114+3) LSA
will drive very nice @ low rpm on the street and trade
A little low end for smoother Idle and a little better
carry up top. The Cylinder Heads and a little extra
Lift will aid carry as well.
Not an expert, just my long term observations and
limited experience, and like most other opinions
Worth what was paid for it LOL.
Having had an Engine built with MMS TFS LS3 Heads &
Cam Motion LLSR with only +6* Exhaust Split.
(HR equivalent 237/243) I would suggest
Cam Motion Custom 227/235 .650"/.630" 114+3
The TFS LS3 flow more than stock from slightly
Smaller Intake Port and have a considerably better
E/I Ratio, I would use the MMS 1.7 ratio Yella Terra
Rockers with the 10 mm bolt upgrade.
A +8* Exhaust Split with a slightly wider (114+3) LSA
will drive very nice @ low rpm on the street and trade
A little low end for smoother Idle and a little better
carry up top. The Cylinder Heads and a little extra
Lift will aid carry as well.
Not an expert, just my long term observations and
limited experience, and like most other opinions
Worth what was paid for it LOL.
thabks for that man! Very helpful insight. When you say a little bit... what does that mean? I was driving this evening and paying attention to where I was when I was playing.... I usually tended to punch it coming out of a corner around 3000-3300 rpm. I tended to shift at around 6000. Only when I got on the highway did I redline.
Ive been saying that I need to retain power from 2000-3000, but maybe I should update that to “not lose any power between 2500-3000 and start gaining after 3k”. At any rate the Cam motion you suggested sounds cool. Any reason why I shouldn’t just use their off the shelf 227/237? I believe it’s called Titan III
05-11-2018, 11:26 PM
#33
Pro
thabks for that man! Very helpful insight. When you say a little bit... what does that mean? I was driving this evening and paying attention to where I was when I was playing.... I usually tended to punch it coming out of a corner around 3000-3300 rpm. I tended to shift at around 6000. Only when I got on the highway did I redline.
Ive been saying that I need to retain power from 2000-3000, but maybe I should update that to “not lose any power between 2500-3000 and start gaining after 3k”. At any rate the Cam motion you suggested sounds cool. Any reason why I shouldn’t just use their off the shelf 227/237? I believe it’s called Titan III
It's an excellent cam for stock LS3 Heads in the correct
Application IMO. Certainly worth a discussion with
Kip or Steve @ Cam Motion knowing exactly what you
Want in driveability & power band and being able
To prioritize & know where the compromises are.
However for another $50.00 for a custom cam I would
Tailor/Tweak it a little for your specific Heads/Goals.
The beauty of starting with Excellant Heads is you
Can get much better all around performance with
a Smaller & Better (more fun to drive on the street)
Cam.
The TFS LS3 Heads are considerably better than stock,
More Flow & Velocity on the Intake & Better E/I ratio
On the exhaust. Therefore less split is needed especially
Below ~6500 RPM. Also if you are going Aftermarket
Roller Rockers why not add a little bit of lift ~.650" VS .624"
on the Intake & ~.630" VS .604 on the Exhaust.
Which will add HP & Torque through your Whole Curve.
05-12-2018, 01:25 AM
#34
I was the one that first suggested that Cam.
It's an excellent cam for stock LS3 Heads in the correct
Application IMO. Certainly worth a discussion with
Kip or Steve @ Cam Motion knowing exactly what you
Want in driveability & power band and being able
To prioritize & know where the compromises are.
However for another $50.00 for a custom cam I would
Tailor/Tweak it a little for your specific Heads/Goals.
The beauty of starting with Excellant Heads is you
Can get much better all around performance with
a Smaller & Better (more fun to drive on the street)
Cam.
The TFS LS3 Heads are considerably better than stock,
More Flow & Velocity on the Intake & Better E/I ratio
On the exhaust. Therefore less split is needed especially
Below ~6500 RPM. Also if you are going Aftermarket
Roller Rockers why not add a little bit of lift ~.650" VS .624"
on the Intake & ~.630" VS .604 on the Exhaust.
Which will add HP & Torque through your Whole Curve.
It's an excellent cam for stock LS3 Heads in the correct
Application IMO. Certainly worth a discussion with
Kip or Steve @ Cam Motion knowing exactly what you
Want in driveability & power band and being able
To prioritize & know where the compromises are.
However for another $50.00 for a custom cam I would
Tailor/Tweak it a little for your specific Heads/Goals.
The beauty of starting with Excellant Heads is you
Can get much better all around performance with
a Smaller & Better (more fun to drive on the street)
Cam.
The TFS LS3 Heads are considerably better than stock,
More Flow & Velocity on the Intake & Better E/I ratio
On the exhaust. Therefore less split is needed especially
Below ~6500 RPM. Also if you are going Aftermarket
Roller Rockers why not add a little bit of lift ~.650" VS .624"
on the Intake & ~.630" VS .604 on the Exhaust.
Which will add HP & Torque through your Whole Curve.
Thanks, what are the drawbacks of the additional lift? And would it provide more lift over stock with the same cam? or does it just allow you to run a higher lift cam?
05-15-2018, 08:10 PM
#35
so Pat ended up spec'ing this: 225/232 .629"/.615" 114LSA +3
I think it's a little light for what I want. To be 100% open, I think the reason for the spec was that on my cam form, I mentioned that I'd love to retain drivability in the 1100-1300rpm range. Now that I've spent a couple of days actually driving the car as I would with a cam, to get a feel for what I can tolerate, I'm realizing that I can stay above 1300rpm with no problems. I replied back to him with that, but realize he is a busy man, and doesn't owe me a "redo" because I'm waffling.
That being said. That does actually sort of reinforce what I'm gravitating towards anyway, which is a 227/236-237 113lsa cam. I think there may be a tiny sacrifice in drivability with this cam, that I will adjust to in a week or so.
I think it's a little light for what I want. To be 100% open, I think the reason for the spec was that on my cam form, I mentioned that I'd love to retain drivability in the 1100-1300rpm range. Now that I've spent a couple of days actually driving the car as I would with a cam, to get a feel for what I can tolerate, I'm realizing that I can stay above 1300rpm with no problems. I replied back to him with that, but realize he is a busy man, and doesn't owe me a "redo" because I'm waffling.
That being said. That does actually sort of reinforce what I'm gravitating towards anyway, which is a 227/236-237 113lsa cam. I think there may be a tiny sacrifice in drivability with this cam, that I will adjust to in a week or so.
05-15-2018, 11:39 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
so Pat ended up spec'ing this: 225/232 .629"/.615" 114LSA +3
I think it's a little light for what I want. To be 100% open, I think the reason for the spec was that on my cam form, I mentioned that I'd love to retain drivability in the 1100-1300rpm range. Now that I've spent a couple of days actually driving the car as I would with a cam, to get a feel for what I can tolerate, I'm realizing that I can stay above 1300rpm with no problems. I replied back to him with that, but realize he is a busy man, and doesn't owe me a "redo" because I'm waffling.
That being said. That does actually sort of reinforce what I'm gravitating towards anyway, which is a 227/236-237 113lsa cam. I think there may be a tiny sacrifice in drivability with this cam, that I will adjust to in a week or so.
I think it's a little light for what I want. To be 100% open, I think the reason for the spec was that on my cam form, I mentioned that I'd love to retain drivability in the 1100-1300rpm range. Now that I've spent a couple of days actually driving the car as I would with a cam, to get a feel for what I can tolerate, I'm realizing that I can stay above 1300rpm with no problems. I replied back to him with that, but realize he is a busy man, and doesn't owe me a "redo" because I'm waffling.
That being said. That does actually sort of reinforce what I'm gravitating towards anyway, which is a 227/236-237 113lsa cam. I think there may be a tiny sacrifice in drivability with this cam, that I will adjust to in a week or so.
Did you call Brian Tooley, Tick Performance, 21st Century Muscle cars or talk to your tuner (which tuners like to go big on the cam for some reason). I know when I was in a search for a cam it drove me nuts and made me have headaches narrow it down to like 3 and go from there. Do what makes you happy. I've had 2 different tuners tune my TSP (close to spinmonter spec.) cam. It's 4 degrees overlap and it drives very good with stock manners. So you only know what you want but keep your ears open and call some people but at the end it's going to be if you like it or not and you have to deal with it. I wish you the best of luck in your search.
05-15-2018, 11:58 PM
#37
Pro
so Pat ended up spec'ing this: 225/232 .629"/.615" 114LSA +3
I think it's a little light for what I want. To be 100% open, I think the reason for the spec was that on my cam form, I mentioned that I'd love to retain drivability in the 1100-1300rpm range. Now that I've spent a couple of days actually driving the car as I would with a cam, to get a feel for what I can tolerate, I'm realizing that I can stay above 1300rpm with no problems. I replied back to him with that, but realize he is a busy man, and doesn't owe me a "redo" because I'm waffling.
That being said. That does actually sort of reinforce what I'm gravitating towards anyway, which is a 227/236-237 113lsa cam. I think there may be a tiny sacrifice in drivability with this cam, that I will adjust to in a week or so.
I think it's a little light for what I want. To be 100% open, I think the reason for the spec was that on my cam form, I mentioned that I'd love to retain drivability in the 1100-1300rpm range. Now that I've spent a couple of days actually driving the car as I would with a cam, to get a feel for what I can tolerate, I'm realizing that I can stay above 1300rpm with no problems. I replied back to him with that, but realize he is a busy man, and doesn't owe me a "redo" because I'm waffling.
That being said. That does actually sort of reinforce what I'm gravitating towards anyway, which is a 227/236-237 113lsa cam. I think there may be a tiny sacrifice in drivability with this cam, that I will adjust to in a week or so.
Pretty close to my suggestion 227/235 114+3
I would bet most shops will spec MUCH LARGER.
What did Cam Motion Suggest?
05-16-2018, 05:08 AM
#38
Burning Brakes
Navy is correct most shops will spec or use larger. Actually I have a Pat G spec for that 227/236 113+3 maybe I'll look around. It's somewhere in that range.
05-17-2018, 10:34 AM
#39
how is it on the low end with responsiveness and tq, as well as cruising at low rpm? Did you mill your heads? I tried to search and can't find a thread on your build (someone else told me to look at your results).
05-17-2018, 02:27 PM
#40
Pro
His thread is near the bottom of this page. Not technically able
to place link in this post.
"Poll I've narrowed it down to 2 cam choices!!! Input appreciated"
Well written with graphs and stages, stock heads then ported by
TSP. Lots of good info.
to place link in this post.
"Poll I've narrowed it down to 2 cam choices!!! Input appreciated"
Well written with graphs and stages, stock heads then ported by
TSP. Lots of good info.