Cam setup for c6 ls2 mn6 after disappointing track times?!?
06-14-2018, 12:48 PM
#1
Cam setup for c6 ls2 mn6 after disappointing track times?!?
alright guys well after starting a couple topics I finally took my car to the track. BONE stock in showroom floor condition (except with 305 continental extremes at 25 psi) here is what I ran.
Firt pass: 13.255 @ 112.97
second pass: 12.991 @ 113.04
third pass: 12.946 @ 114.00
i was having some troubles with my 60fts and went back to the track last night for a second go around at launching the car better. However track conditions weren't as good and I had 12 mph headwinds...
first pass: 12.996 @ 111.01
second pass: 13.227 @ 112.99
third pass: 12.927 @ 113.99
with this being said, I'm happy I broke 12's but would really like to make the car break 11's soon and with those baseline passes, I don't think I'll accomplish 11's with the bolt ons I've purchased. I currently have obx 1 7/8 long tube headers, 3" x pipe, axle back straight pipe, fast 102 manifold (unported), stock throttle body that I will have ported, and a lingenfelter Intake all sitting in the garage waiting to be put on. Also will be picking up a set of Hoosier slicks on c5 rims.
Now im looking into the btr stage 3 and stage 4 cams and want to buy a complete package. Only problem is when it comes to cams and cam specs I'm not very educated on what they really are. I don't know how long of pushrods to go with, what type of valve springs and retainers I should get, or if these stage 3 or stage 4 cams are just unnecessary to get seeing that the rest of the car is Just bolt ons. I want to get the best bang for my buck out of a cam but I'm also shooting for good amount of reliability and drive ability on the street while still being able to dip into the 11's pretty well. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Firt pass: 13.255 @ 112.97
second pass: 12.991 @ 113.04
third pass: 12.946 @ 114.00
i was having some troubles with my 60fts and went back to the track last night for a second go around at launching the car better. However track conditions weren't as good and I had 12 mph headwinds...
first pass: 12.996 @ 111.01
second pass: 13.227 @ 112.99
third pass: 12.927 @ 113.99
with this being said, I'm happy I broke 12's but would really like to make the car break 11's soon and with those baseline passes, I don't think I'll accomplish 11's with the bolt ons I've purchased. I currently have obx 1 7/8 long tube headers, 3" x pipe, axle back straight pipe, fast 102 manifold (unported), stock throttle body that I will have ported, and a lingenfelter Intake all sitting in the garage waiting to be put on. Also will be picking up a set of Hoosier slicks on c5 rims.
Now im looking into the btr stage 3 and stage 4 cams and want to buy a complete package. Only problem is when it comes to cams and cam specs I'm not very educated on what they really are. I don't know how long of pushrods to go with, what type of valve springs and retainers I should get, or if these stage 3 or stage 4 cams are just unnecessary to get seeing that the rest of the car is Just bolt ons. I want to get the best bang for my buck out of a cam but I'm also shooting for good amount of reliability and drive ability on the street while still being able to dip into the 11's pretty well. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
06-14-2018, 01:12 PM
#3
ifyou don't mind me asking, what did the cam package run you? Not looking to spend $1500 for a cam package when I've seen them out there for $400-$800
06-14-2018, 01:43 PM
#6
not that I WANT to go cheap on cam, I just don't want to be spending more than I should be because I don't know what a quality cam package should run me. I just have never heard of cams for an ls2 being over $1500
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mcm95403 (06-15-2018)
06-14-2018, 01:45 PM
#7
06-14-2018, 01:55 PM
#8
Drifting
I went with the BTR Stage 2 in an effort to keep semi-stock drivability. It has 5.5 degrees of overlap if I remember correctly. Honestly I don't feel like I sacrificed any driveability in my selection. But a lot of that also has to do with the quality of the tune.
I'm daily driving a M6 LS3 with full bolt-ons and cam. I have rush hour traffic to and from work and still don't mind. I wouldn't take the cam away, that's for sure.
06-14-2018, 02:53 PM
#9
06-14-2018, 03:01 PM
#10
Drifting
If I want more power I'll go with forced induction over a high overlap cam.
06-14-2018, 04:22 PM
#11
Heel & Toe
Et
Man I bet if you were to install all the parts in your garage on your car you would be in the 11s or damn close. My car is ls2 a4 with obx longtubes, vararam cai, 160 t-stat and a Texas speed mail order tune and I've ran 12.3 .You having the manual and extra bolt ons should dip in to the 11s easily
06-14-2018, 04:48 PM
#12
After speaking with BTR about my goals and desire for stock-like drivability we landed on the Stage 2. I wasn't willing to sacrifice enjoying the drive for an extra 10-15 HP. I'm happy with where I landed.
If I want more power I'll go with forced induction over a high overlap cam.
If I want more power I'll go with forced induction over a high overlap cam.
06-14-2018, 04:50 PM
#13
Man I bet if you were to install all the parts in your garage on your car you would be in the 11s or damn close. My car is ls2 a4 with obx longtubes, vararam cai, 160 t-stat and a Texas speed mail order tune and I've ran 12.3 .You having the manual and extra bolt ons should dip in to the 11s easily
thats a pretty solid 1/4 mile for some bolt ons! Just out of curiosity, I was thinking about doing the 160 t-stat or 180 t-stat. What are the pros and cons to them? Is it with it? The parts only $25 so I figured why not unless there's some drastic cons to it.
06-14-2018, 05:07 PM
#14
Heel & Toe
I haven't found any cons really. Honestly I just got this car bone stock in April, so I have no idea what temps i would have seen in the summer time with the stock t-stat. I am currently seeing temps around 200 while in traffic in 100 degree plus Texas heat. Highway temps around 180. I also added the vararam cai at the same time and it impedes airflow across the radiator, so I am sure that also has an effect on my temps. Funny enough I picked up the thermostat at Texas Speed and it was a motorad t-stat in a lingenfelter box, so who knows what the real temp of the t-stat is
06-14-2018, 05:15 PM
#15
I haven't found any cons really. Honestly I just got this car bone stock in April, so I have no idea what temps i would have seen in the summer time with the stock t-stat. I am currently seeing temps around 200 while in traffic in 100 degree plus Texas heat. Highway temps around 180. I also added the vararam cai at the same time and it impedes airflow across the radiator, so I am sure that also has an effect on my temps. Funny enough I picked up the thermostat at Texas Speed and it was a motorad t-stat in a lingenfelter box, so who knows what the real temp of the t-stat is
ahhhh gotcha. In traffic with California heat (around 95 degrees) I see 220-230 and cruising at 70 I see about 200. I would like to bring the temps down on it a little and just want to make sure it won't hurt the car. Also something else I'm trying to determine if it's worth it or not is a throttle body spacer. I want to see how much power I can really squeeze out of this poor ls2 of mine and have read that the throttle body spacers from VR are actually pretty good products! Hopefully it'll work with my lingenfelter intake and I guess I'll have to port the spacer when I have the throttle body ported.
06-14-2018, 05:48 PM
#16
Heel & Toe
ahhhh gotcha. In traffic with California heat (around 95 degrees) I see 220-230 and cruising at 70 I see about 200. I would like to bring the temps down on it a little and just want to make sure it won't hurt the car. Also something else I'm trying to determine if it's worth it or not is a throttle body spacer. I want to see how much power I can really squeeze out of this poor ls2 of mine and have read that the throttle body spacers from VR are actually pretty good products! Hopefully it'll work with my lingenfelter intake and I guess I'll have to port the spacer when I have the throttle body ported.
Right on, seems like the temperature difference is significant then. That's good. It wont hurt the car to run it cooler. The idea is cooler temps mean the computer wont take timing, and therefore power, out of it. I went without the spacer and am happy with it, although it will probably end up in the for sale forum this winter when I go FI.
06-14-2018, 09:26 PM
#17
alright guys well after starting a couple topics I finally took my car to the track. BONE stock in showroom floor condition (except with 305 continental extremes at 25 psi) here is what I ran.
Firt pass: 13.255 @ 112.97
second pass: 12.991 @ 113.04
third pass: 12.946 @ 114.00
i was having some troubles with my 60fts and went back to the track last night for a second go around at launching the car better. However track conditions weren't as good and I had 12 mph headwinds...
first pass: 12.996 @ 111.01
second pass: 13.227 @ 112.99
third pass: 12.927 @ 113.99
with this being said, I'm happy I broke 12's but would really like to make the car break 11's soon and with those baseline passes, I don't think I'll accomplish 11's with the bolt ons I've purchased. I currently have obx 1 7/8 long tube headers, 3" x pipe, axle back straight pipe, fast 102 manifold (unported), stock throttle body that I will have ported, and a lingenfelter Intake all sitting in the garage waiting to be put on. Also will be picking up a set of Hoosier slicks on c5 rims.
Now im looking into the btr stage 3 and stage 4 cams and want to buy a complete package. Only problem is when it comes to cams and cam specs I'm not very educated on what they really are. I don't know how long of pushrods to go with, what type of valve springs and retainers I should get, or if these stage 3 or stage 4 cams are just unnecessary to get seeing that the rest of the car is Just bolt ons. I want to get the best bang for my buck out of a cam but I'm also shooting for good amount of reliability and drive ability on the street while still being able to dip into the 11's pretty well. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Firt pass: 13.255 @ 112.97
second pass: 12.991 @ 113.04
third pass: 12.946 @ 114.00
i was having some troubles with my 60fts and went back to the track last night for a second go around at launching the car better. However track conditions weren't as good and I had 12 mph headwinds...
first pass: 12.996 @ 111.01
second pass: 13.227 @ 112.99
third pass: 12.927 @ 113.99
with this being said, I'm happy I broke 12's but would really like to make the car break 11's soon and with those baseline passes, I don't think I'll accomplish 11's with the bolt ons I've purchased. I currently have obx 1 7/8 long tube headers, 3" x pipe, axle back straight pipe, fast 102 manifold (unported), stock throttle body that I will have ported, and a lingenfelter Intake all sitting in the garage waiting to be put on. Also will be picking up a set of Hoosier slicks on c5 rims.
Now im looking into the btr stage 3 and stage 4 cams and want to buy a complete package. Only problem is when it comes to cams and cam specs I'm not very educated on what they really are. I don't know how long of pushrods to go with, what type of valve springs and retainers I should get, or if these stage 3 or stage 4 cams are just unnecessary to get seeing that the rest of the car is Just bolt ons. I want to get the best bang for my buck out of a cam but I'm also shooting for good amount of reliability and drive ability on the street while still being able to dip into the 11's pretty well. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
06-14-2018, 11:32 PM
#18
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
With no info in your profile and very little more in this thread, it's really hard to help you.
All I gleaned so far, is you have a M6 LS2 and you live in CA.
So try answering some questions and put the important details in your profile to avoid playing 20 questions.
What year C6?
Coupe or vert?
What major options?
Which track?
Can you post timeslips?
You aren't too far off the pace for a bone stock car and you admit you need a driver mod. There's no need for a cam to run mid-11's, but you need the right parts and more seat time.
Just for reference, I run high 10's with a LS3 bolton, but only managed a 12.41 bone stock.
All I gleaned so far, is you have a M6 LS2 and you live in CA.
So try answering some questions and put the important details in your profile to avoid playing 20 questions.
What year C6?
Coupe or vert?
What major options?
Which track?
Can you post timeslips?
You aren't too far off the pace for a bone stock car and you admit you need a driver mod. There's no need for a cam to run mid-11's, but you need the right parts and more seat time.
Just for reference, I run high 10's with a LS3 bolton, but only managed a 12.41 bone stock.
06-15-2018, 01:29 AM
#19
With no info in your profile and very little more in this thread, it's really hard to help you.
All I gleaned so far, is you have a M6 LS2 and you live in CA.
So try answering some questions and put the important details in your profile to avoid playing 20 questions.
What year C6?
Coupe or vert?
What major options?
Which track?
Can you post timeslips?
You aren't too far off the pace for a bone stock car and you admit you need a driver mod. There's no need for a cam to run mid-11's, but you need the right parts and more seat time.
Just for reference, I run high 10's with a LS3 bolton, but only managed a 12.41 bone stock.
All I gleaned so far, is you have a M6 LS2 and you live in CA.
So try answering some questions and put the important details in your profile to avoid playing 20 questions.
What year C6?
Coupe or vert?
What major options?
Which track?
Can you post timeslips?
You aren't too far off the pace for a bone stock car and you admit you need a driver mod. There's no need for a cam to run mid-11's, but you need the right parts and more seat time.
Just for reference, I run high 10's with a LS3 bolton, but only managed a 12.41 bone stock.
06-15-2018, 03:07 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
I haven't found any cons really. Honestly I just got this car bone stock in April, so I have no idea what temps i would have seen in the summer time with the stock t-stat. I am currently seeing temps around 200 while in traffic in 100 degree plus Texas heat. Highway temps around 180. I also added the vararam cai at the same time and it impedes airflow across the radiator, so I am sure that also has an effect on my temps. Funny enough I picked up the thermostat at Texas Speed and it was a motorad t-stat in a lingenfelter box, so who knows what the real temp of the t-stat is
