shelleygraham

camarokidz28

I THINK these would be separate issues. A belt issue may affect the voltage from the alternator, but you would notice that on the DIC. Harmonic damper is a pretty common part failure.

Parasitic draw can be a pain in the ***. There are a few threads regarding it. What do you have that's aftermarket? Does your car have Onstar (even if it isn't used)? It seemed common from other threads that the Onstar was using power after the car was off, causing a draw. I pulled my Onstar fuse just in case. It hasn't been long enough for me to know if that was the cause or not.

Do a forum search for 'parasitic draw' and 'battery draining'. I remember seeing a couple useful threads in which Dano had solid advice.

shelleygraham

shelleygraham

Turbo6TA

I answered this same question that you posted in the C6 General Discussion forum:

Same problem with my 2011 GS.

Pull the OnStar fuse (located in the passenger side footwell area fuse panel) and I bet your electrical parasitic draw goes down to next to nothing.

You can read all about my problem here, plus the fix .... https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ead-again.html
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As far as the wobbling pulley .... You are going to need to replace the Harmonic Balancer (common problem with the LSx engines)

Turbo6TA

Yes ..... But, on the LS engines, GM calls it a Harmonic Balancer

shelleygraham

OregonMike

The balancer is a few hours for sure. Yes, I'd put all new belts & the arp bolt in.



I had to do that (balancer) then shortly after I had to replace the cam. I was much faster at getting the rack out the second time

Turbo6TA

Yes, it's a big job ... the hardest part is moving the steering rack out of the way.

The factory balancer bolt is fine, but you will need a new one because it can only be used once ("torque to yield" style bolt).

Word of advice ... Don't get another OEM balancer unless you want the same problem again at a later date.

A good aftermarket balancer is the:

Dayco 'PowerBond' Race Performance Harmonic Balancer
P/N: PB1117SS
$ 222.99 Shipped
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...model/corvette

You should also replace the crankshaft seal too.

Do a search for Harmonic Balancer here on the forum and you will find lots of threads about it.

Again, replacing it is no quick and easy job ... to say the very least.

Turbo6TA

Your also going to need to remove the starter and 'lock' the crankshaft with a tool in order to remove and replace the balancer bolt.

Turbo6TA

This is just one method used to replace the HB.

(This was posted by someone else here on the Corvette Forum) .... I am not responsible for it's content
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Harmonic Balancer Replacement

1. Remove wheels and disconnet both tie rod ends.

2. Disconnect battery and remove alternator.

3. Remove air filter and MAF sensor wire connector.

4. Remove ABS bracket by removing two lower bolts and two upper nuts (don’t lose upper studs in bushings, pull them off and set aside with nuts), pull bracket out of car.

5. Remove sway bar (not much more effort just to take the bar out of the car instead of just swinging it down). Note: An 8mm wrench will hold the sway link from spinning while removing the nut.

6. Remove radiator fan (two bolts, disconnect plug, pry off couple harness straps), drops right out PS reservoir - turkey baster to remove fluid, disconnect from pump and swing out of the way.

7. Remove both belts.

8. Disconnect both PS lines off of the rack and steering shaft bolt.

9. Remove starter (just zip tie starter up out of the way).

10. Install flexplate lock (eBay $25). There is a plastic “shim” between bell housing and starter. Had to trim some of it off to get lock to bolt all the way up.

11. Drop engine cradle 3/4” by loosening 4 nuts and wedging 4 big flat washers near the front 2 bolts. The cradle easlily pryed down for me with a pry bar. Read that others had trouble. Obviously make sure jack stands are under the frame and not the engine cradle.

12. Loosen rack by removing two bolts and prying up. The reason the cradle needs to go down is becasue the dust boot on the tie rod doesn’t allow the rack to lift high enough off the frame brackets.

13. Disconnect rack plug and push rack over towards passenger side. You have to rotate so steering gear part clears the balancer. Once driver side tie rod cleared the balancer, I stopped. The driver tie rod will be just above the balancer. Zip tie out of the way if needed ... I didn’t.

14. Break loose 24mm balancer bolt with 24” breaker bar and jack handle extension. I didn’t heat the bolt to melt the silicone as some others have.

15. Attach the Autozone loaner Chrysler balancer remover.

16. Replace timing cover crank seal using a small pry bar.

17. Attach a balancer install tool into crank (eBay - $15 for a 16mm threaded rod with nuts) ... Works great

18. Put balancer on crank and screw down nut until on enough to pull tool and install OLD balancer bolt without risking thread damage. I didn’t need to boil the balancer or put a bag of ice on crank as some suggested to ease reinstall.

19. Tighten balancer down with old bolt to 240 lb ft. and then remove bolt.

20. Install the new bolt and tighten to 37 lb ft ... Then tighten the bolt 140 degrees.

21. I installed the AC belt back on to do a visual on belt alignment with balancer. Looked fine.
Unlike others, my rack did not have any shims, spacers or washers to keep track of. Since it came out easily, I thought it would go back in easily. Wrong...the driver side did but not the other. So needed to pry apart the passenger bracket slightly. Used a 7 1/6 x 3 1/2” carriage bolt because it is threaded more, unlike a standard bolt.

22. Drop rack back in and bolt up and reconnect plug.

vezePilot

This site is amazing; There are so many answers and so much information. I was looking closely at my LS2 today while it was running. The big pulley on the crank is wobbly as it turns at idle. I didn't like seeing that, but figured how hard can it be to replace? So this is the Harmonic Balancer (?) ... well being wobbly probably isn't the best way to help balance the belt and whatever else it's supposed to help. In order to help balance the driveline, does that thing have to be Keyed to a certain position?

Man, I don't know if I want to do this replacement myself or not. But it's great to be able to read through what is required, in order to make an informed decision.

Turbo6TA

The balancer on these engines is not keyed (which is a big mistake from GM) ... so they can be installed in any clock position.

When they go really bad and completely de-laminate, the outer section of the HB can move forward and contact the steering rack ... that's bad!

vezePilot

I'm going to check with my vehicle manager at McCaddon Cadillac where my Silverado has been maintained for several years now. Folks there are great, it's a top-rated dealership, and I get to work with the same service manager every time. He knows my truck, and was glad to see my Corvette when I took it to show it to him last week. I'll see if he can give me an estimate for the work, and I'll order the Dayco 'PowerBond' Race Performance Harmonic Balancer and take it to him for their shop. It just looks like too big a job for me to jump into for my first work on this car.

How wobbly does it have to get before failure is imminent?

Turbo6TA

How wobbly .... I can't answer that.

But, I can tell you NOT to re-install another OEM / GM harmonic balancer.

And if your Chev dealership will only install another OEM HB, go somewhere else and have the work done.

shelleygraham

Turbo6TA

I don't understand what your saying ..... "Is this Good" ?

OregonMike

Forgot the paste part of copy/paste would be my guess

shelleygraham

Turbo6TA

Looks exactly like the OEM part.

Is it good? ..... I don't know, but I would spend the extra cash and get the balancer I posted above.