Not parasitic drain - Dead 2008 base model
06-27-2018, 09:07 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Not parasitic drain - Dead 2008 base model
Okay, I fought the parasitic drain issue when I first purchased the car. At first, it would not start without a jump after more than 7 days sitting. This gradually got worse until 1 day was enough to kill the battery. I did all the usual tests, went to two different places to have the battery and charging system checked (okay at both). I measured the drain with all computers off at .025 amps which is about normal for our cars. Finally, I fully charged the battery and disconnected it overnight. The next day it measured 9.6 volts. Long story short, dead cell which for some reason did not show up on the Autozone or Batteries Plus testing devices. I replaced the battery and even after leaving the car idle for more than 10 days, starts right up without issues.
Then yesterday, I decided to drive it to work and the door would not open. The red light on the lock stem would light up, but no entry granted. So I took my DD to work. Last night, I backed in next to the Vette to jump it. I opened the hatch manually and pulled the release for the door which did open. Inside the car, the start switch was bright green, but no instrument lights. The headlights lit up the garage and appeared to be of normal brightness. The car would not start. I suspected it was not talking to the keyfob. I got my 2nd keyfob out and same result. So I went in the house and replaced the primary keyfob battery. Same result.
Finally, I disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds and reconnected. Car now responds normally and started right up without jumpers. I did have to re-index the windows, but I'm sure that's just due to disconnecting the battery.
Any ideas on what would cause this?
Then yesterday, I decided to drive it to work and the door would not open. The red light on the lock stem would light up, but no entry granted. So I took my DD to work. Last night, I backed in next to the Vette to jump it. I opened the hatch manually and pulled the release for the door which did open. Inside the car, the start switch was bright green, but no instrument lights. The headlights lit up the garage and appeared to be of normal brightness. The car would not start. I suspected it was not talking to the keyfob. I got my 2nd keyfob out and same result. So I went in the house and replaced the primary keyfob battery. Same result.
Finally, I disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds and reconnected. Car now responds normally and started right up without jumpers. I did have to re-index the windows, but I'm sure that's just due to disconnecting the battery.
Any ideas on what would cause this?
06-29-2018, 07:29 PM
#2
Need a photo on the glove box stick on the lid to see what is OEM RPO installed (if the car has XM and Onstar modules installed), and then a list of what is after-market installed in the car to begin with.
Also, on the OEM parts, the battery cable that runs behind the passenger side of the motor can end up with the loom and shielding on the wire rubbing against the back of the head, to cause a short in the battery positive cable to ground out against the aluminum head of the motor.
Also, on the OEM parts, the battery cable that runs behind the passenger side of the motor can end up with the loom and shielding on the wire rubbing against the back of the head, to cause a short in the battery positive cable to ground out against the aluminum head of the motor.
Last edited by Dano523; 06-29-2018 at 07:32 PM.
06-30-2018, 06:08 AM
#3
Instructor
Seems to me that she's frustrated with being second lady in your life to your dd. That's her way of telling you to treat her better! But seriously, check the obvious, the positive cable on the battery. Any corrosion you knocked loose taking it on and off? Too loose or tight? Check it as far as you can for where the may have rubbed through the insulation. Dano gives some great advice too!
06-30-2018, 06:26 AM
#4
Race Director
I have with the 122k miles I put on my 2008 even when the battery tests out ok that if I just replace the battery every 27 to 36 months the electric gremlins go away.
i have a small lithium ion battery jump starter . It’s about the size of a very thick iPhone and I keep it in the trunk. Every few months I charge it up as a back up. I haven’t needed it in years but I still charge it up and keep it in the trunk.
the bottom line is that even with 42 month delco battery’s I find about every 36months even when the battery checks out ok on the tester...the electric gremlins pop up..
now ow I don’t even sweat it. I just replace the battery with a new delco..(of which the 42month is under warranty so I very other one is free. I replace the battery and all is well again.
my suggestion for 150 dollars or so just replace with a new delco 42month battery at the dealer. In 36 months go back to the dealer and tell them you want a new battery under warranty.
the free one they give you will not be replaced in 36months when it goes bad for free but who cares.
$75 dollars every 3 years is nothing..
the c6 tends to run diagnostics even when sitting in the garage and it draws on the battery.
also if you have the m2w switch it also has a parasitic draw on the battery.
hope this helps and I hope this is your issue as it’s so easy to take care of.
i usually know it’s coming as I often get a lot of abs service dash board messages around the sa,e time I need to replace the battery etc and when I replace the battery all those DIC messages go away when I replace the battery.
my GM tech does all the bowling green service seminars as well as Carlisle and Bloomington gold and he told me this is totally normal for a c6.
We are very good friends and the vehicle was under warranty for 7 years and would have fixed it no matter what it was without question.
the resolution was simply replacing the 42month delco every 27 to 36 months when the messages would pop up or the no start totally dead car popped up.
good luck
i have a small lithium ion battery jump starter . It’s about the size of a very thick iPhone and I keep it in the trunk. Every few months I charge it up as a back up. I haven’t needed it in years but I still charge it up and keep it in the trunk.
the bottom line is that even with 42 month delco battery’s I find about every 36months even when the battery checks out ok on the tester...the electric gremlins pop up..
now ow I don’t even sweat it. I just replace the battery with a new delco..(of which the 42month is under warranty so I very other one is free. I replace the battery and all is well again.
my suggestion for 150 dollars or so just replace with a new delco 42month battery at the dealer. In 36 months go back to the dealer and tell them you want a new battery under warranty.
the free one they give you will not be replaced in 36months when it goes bad for free but who cares.
$75 dollars every 3 years is nothing..
the c6 tends to run diagnostics even when sitting in the garage and it draws on the battery.
also if you have the m2w switch it also has a parasitic draw on the battery.
hope this helps and I hope this is your issue as it’s so easy to take care of.
i usually know it’s coming as I often get a lot of abs service dash board messages around the sa,e time I need to replace the battery etc and when I replace the battery all those DIC messages go away when I replace the battery.
my GM tech does all the bowling green service seminars as well as Carlisle and Bloomington gold and he told me this is totally normal for a c6.
We are very good friends and the vehicle was under warranty for 7 years and would have fixed it no matter what it was without question.
the resolution was simply replacing the 42month delco every 27 to 36 months when the messages would pop up or the no start totally dead car popped up.
good luck
07-01-2018, 03:55 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Need a photo on the glove box stick on the lid to see what is OEM RPO installed (if the car has XM and Onstar modules installed), and then a list of what is after-market installed in the car to begin with.
Also, on the OEM parts, the battery cable that runs behind the passenger side of the motor can end up with the loom and shielding on the wire rubbing against the back of the head, to cause a short in the battery positive cable to ground out against the aluminum head of the motor.
Also, on the OEM parts, the battery cable that runs behind the passenger side of the motor can end up with the loom and shielding on the wire rubbing against the back of the head, to cause a short in the battery positive cable to ground out against the aluminum head of the motor.
IMO, the Viper alarm system was somehow triggered during a violent thunder storm the night before. The car came with the system installed, but I don't use it (the remote sits in a tin can in my bedroom). It does have a disable mode which I totally forgot about and never even checked. Could be something else I suppose, but since I changed the battery out a couple of months ago, the car has been perfect. If it happens again, I'll dig in deeper.
07-01-2018, 03:55 PM
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
I have with the 122k miles I put on my 2008 even when the battery tests out ok that if I just replace the battery every 27 to 36 months the electric gremlins go away.
i have a small lithium ion battery jump starter . It’s about the size of a very thick iPhone and I keep it in the trunk. Every few months I charge it up as a back up. I haven’t needed it in years but I still charge it up and keep it in the trunk.
the bottom line is that even with 42 month delco battery’s I find about every 36months even when the battery checks out ok on the tester...the electric gremlins pop up..
now ow I don’t even sweat it. I just replace the battery with a new delco..(of which the 42month is under warranty so I very other one is free. I replace the battery and all is well again.
my suggestion for 150 dollars or so just replace with a new delco 42month battery at the dealer. In 36 months go back to the dealer and tell them you want a new battery under warranty.
the free one they give you will not be replaced in 36months when it goes bad for free but who cares.
$75 dollars every 3 years is nothing..
the c6 tends to run diagnostics even when sitting in the garage and it draws on the battery.
also if you have the m2w switch it also has a parasitic draw on the battery.
hope this helps and I hope this is your issue as it’s so easy to take care of.
i usually know it’s coming as I often get a lot of abs service dash board messages around the sa,e time I need to replace the battery etc and when I replace the battery all those DIC messages go away when I replace the battery.
my GM tech does all the bowling green service seminars as well as Carlisle and Bloomington gold and he told me this is totally normal for a c6.
We are very good friends and the vehicle was under warranty for 7 years and would have fixed it no matter what it was without question.
the resolution was simply replacing the 42month delco every 27 to 36 months when the messages would pop up or the no start totally dead car popped up.
good luck
i have a small lithium ion battery jump starter . It’s about the size of a very thick iPhone and I keep it in the trunk. Every few months I charge it up as a back up. I haven’t needed it in years but I still charge it up and keep it in the trunk.
the bottom line is that even with 42 month delco battery’s I find about every 36months even when the battery checks out ok on the tester...the electric gremlins pop up..
now ow I don’t even sweat it. I just replace the battery with a new delco..(of which the 42month is under warranty so I very other one is free. I replace the battery and all is well again.
my suggestion for 150 dollars or so just replace with a new delco 42month battery at the dealer. In 36 months go back to the dealer and tell them you want a new battery under warranty.
the free one they give you will not be replaced in 36months when it goes bad for free but who cares.
$75 dollars every 3 years is nothing..
the c6 tends to run diagnostics even when sitting in the garage and it draws on the battery.
also if you have the m2w switch it also has a parasitic draw on the battery.
hope this helps and I hope this is your issue as it’s so easy to take care of.
i usually know it’s coming as I often get a lot of abs service dash board messages around the sa,e time I need to replace the battery etc and when I replace the battery all those DIC messages go away when I replace the battery.
my GM tech does all the bowling green service seminars as well as Carlisle and Bloomington gold and he told me this is totally normal for a c6.
We are very good friends and the vehicle was under warranty for 7 years and would have fixed it no matter what it was without question.
the resolution was simply replacing the 42month delco every 27 to 36 months when the messages would pop up or the no start totally dead car popped up.
good luck
07-01-2018, 04:46 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
The auto stores machine doesn't test internal shorts in the batt. It will drain itself just sitting. My brother had a 6mo old battery start doing the same thing in his Acura TL. A new batt fixed it.
07-02-2018, 08:40 AM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
I agree with the 2nd sentence. When it was not starting after only 24 hours, I charged the battery to full charge and disconnected it overnight. The next morning, it read 9.6 volts. New battery went in and no issues for even a 10 day idle period. As for your first sentence, how do you know that (honest question, I never thought to ask them what all is tested)?
07-02-2018, 09:42 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
I agree with the 2nd sentence. When it was not starting after only 24 hours, I charged the battery to full charge and disconnected it overnight. The next morning, it read 9.6 volts. New battery went in and no issues for even a 10 day idle period. As for your first sentence, how do you know that (honest question, I never thought to ask them what all is tested)?
Last edited by Curt D; 07-02-2018 at 03:30 PM.