How to install a harmonic balancer / Crank Pulley
07-22-2018, 02:43 AM
#2
You are a glutton for punishment, and will bank that you will be back in motor to redue the HB install shortly again.
First off, there is diamond impregnated washer (part 233 in the below photo) that needs to be replaced, and it goes behind the HB before you put the HB on. Hence did not see it on the HB when you pulled it off, so the old one may still have been on the Crank shaft (did not see it though). Hence this diamond impregnated washer locks the HB to the front of crank case sprocket so the HB does not slip on the shaft.
the washer is gm 12603843, so once you remove the old Seal, you pull the old washer out if it did not come off with the HB, and install the new washer, then install the new seal.
Next the stock HB bolt is torque to yeild, so its a one time use only.
So with new HB on via the HB tool to sister it and the diamond washer to the front of sprocket gear , RTV in the key way slot to seal it off, but no so much that your flooding out the back of the key way into the motor, New HB bolt with 272 loctite on it threads is torqued to 37 ft/lbs, then go another 140 degrees to stretch it to it yield.
Also to get the bolt torqued correctly, you need to pull the starter and use a block off plate on the flywheel gear to bell housing to lock the crank in place (or can luck out sometimes with a manual in a high gear with the E brake on to hold the crank shaft instead).
Also noticed that is is a base car, since you did not have to pull the power steering cooler to make room as well.
On the steering column, make a mark on it with the wheels straight before you even pull the coupling. Hence if the column spins one rotation out, the steering wheel sensor will not read correctly. If you forget to mark the column and/or it turns when your working on the car, then put a tech II on the car and make sure that the steering wheel position senor is reading zero before you hook the coupling back up. If the steering wheel sensor it reading in the negitive number, the wheel turned counter clockwise one turn, while if in the positive numbers, then the wheel turned one rotation clockwise isntead.
Also, tape the column end to prevent if from rotation, and even dropping down more. The rotation problem is bad enough with the sensor not reading zero with the wheel straight, but if the end of the coupler end drops down far enough, it will pull the bearing and steering wheel below it out of their seats, making the job a lot harder instead when you have to dive into the steering column to reset the bearing and sensor isntead.
Lastly, any time that the front sub frame bolts are loosened and the sub column dropped down even a touch, the front end alignment needs to be rechecked.
First off, there is diamond impregnated washer (part 233 in the below photo) that needs to be replaced, and it goes behind the HB before you put the HB on. Hence did not see it on the HB when you pulled it off, so the old one may still have been on the Crank shaft (did not see it though). Hence this diamond impregnated washer locks the HB to the front of crank case sprocket so the HB does not slip on the shaft.
the washer is gm 12603843, so once you remove the old Seal, you pull the old washer out if it did not come off with the HB, and install the new washer, then install the new seal.
Next the stock HB bolt is torque to yeild, so its a one time use only.
So with new HB on via the HB tool to sister it and the diamond washer to the front of sprocket gear , RTV in the key way slot to seal it off, but no so much that your flooding out the back of the key way into the motor, New HB bolt with 272 loctite on it threads is torqued to 37 ft/lbs, then go another 140 degrees to stretch it to it yield.
Also to get the bolt torqued correctly, you need to pull the starter and use a block off plate on the flywheel gear to bell housing to lock the crank in place (or can luck out sometimes with a manual in a high gear with the E brake on to hold the crank shaft instead).
Also noticed that is is a base car, since you did not have to pull the power steering cooler to make room as well.
On the steering column, make a mark on it with the wheels straight before you even pull the coupling. Hence if the column spins one rotation out, the steering wheel sensor will not read correctly. If you forget to mark the column and/or it turns when your working on the car, then put a tech II on the car and make sure that the steering wheel position senor is reading zero before you hook the coupling back up. If the steering wheel sensor it reading in the negitive number, the wheel turned counter clockwise one turn, while if in the positive numbers, then the wheel turned one rotation clockwise isntead.
Also, tape the column end to prevent if from rotation, and even dropping down more. The rotation problem is bad enough with the sensor not reading zero with the wheel straight, but if the end of the coupler end drops down far enough, it will pull the bearing and steering wheel below it out of their seats, making the job a lot harder instead when you have to dive into the steering column to reset the bearing and sensor isntead.
Lastly, any time that the front sub frame bolts are loosened and the sub column dropped down even a touch, the front end alignment needs to be rechecked.
Last edited by Dano523; 07-22-2018 at 11:50 PM.
07-22-2018, 07:57 AM
#3
Race Director
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2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
1. Tighten your new balancer down with the old bolt to 240 lb ft. (that seats the new HB on the crankshaft)
2. Then, remove the old bolt and discard
3. Install the new GM bolt and initially tighten it to 37 lb ft.
4. Finally, tighten that new bolt 140 degrees
.
Last edited by Turbo6TA; 07-22-2018 at 08:22 AM.
07-22-2018, 11:19 AM
#4
Safety Car
Actually ...
1. Tighten your new balancer down with the old bolt to 240 lb ft. (that seats the new HB on the crankshaft)
2. Then, remove the old bolt and discard
3. Install the new GM bolt and initially tighten it to 37 lb ft.
4. Finally, tighten that new bolt 140 degrees
.
1. Tighten your new balancer down with the old bolt to 240 lb ft. (that seats the new HB on the crankshaft)
2. Then, remove the old bolt and discard
3. Install the new GM bolt and initially tighten it to 37 lb ft.
4. Finally, tighten that new bolt 140 degrees
.
Last edited by irok; 07-22-2018 at 11:20 AM.
07-22-2018, 11:28 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Used the old bolt and saved $10.00. Wow.
07-22-2018, 11:51 PM
#6
Racer
What is apparently the best Corvette-only shop in Denver has quoted me $831 for the 6 hour job of replacing the Harmonic Balancer in my 2007 Base A6. Besides that, I have also asked Rich (the owner) at Corvette Connection to replace any Belt Idlers and Tensioners that need it, and to do some Tuning on the Engine and Auto Transmission control modules. My understanding is that there is a Licensing fee besides the labor of doing the Tune work.
I may not be looking forward to "hearing the turbos again" ... but this car is supposed to be able to do modest burnouts. And I have not done that yet, nor have I ever had the engine above 4,500 RPM. Until I get the HB replaced, I'm just kinda takin it easy on the engine.
I may not be looking forward to "hearing the turbos again" ... but this car is supposed to be able to do modest burnouts. And I have not done that yet, nor have I ever had the engine above 4,500 RPM. Until I get the HB replaced, I'm just kinda takin it easy on the engine.
07-22-2018, 11:54 PM
#7
This is the reason that you use the HB install tool, which threads all the way into the crank threads to start with, and uses the external threads on the tool to draw the HB into place on the crank.
07-23-2018, 12:12 AM
#8
With TC turned off (one button push on the TC button and Traction control off with display in the DIC), you can blister the tires now.
The glitch, with rear wheel spin can come wheel hop real fast, and when wheel hop happens, it's the fastest way to grenade the differential.
So again, one button push on the TC button will turn the TC off. Two pushes on the TC button will put you into comp mode (with TC still off). once more push after the two button pushes will put you back into all nannies on/normal mode. Or from the start, just push the TC button in for 5 seconds, and this will turn off all the nannies, with the exception of ABS which stay on.
So TC off mode allows the rear tires to spin, without TC jumping in to stop the rear wheels from spinning.
Standard mode, compared to comp mode, will allow the rear end to side step out farther, before AH kicks in to try to bring the back end up and get the car straight isntead.
All off mode, your on your own, and the back end can come all the way around to going down the track rear end first, and AH will not kick in to try to save you.
Also to point out, in TC off mode and the rear tires spinning as you are moving forward, the tires can grab hard enough to snap hook the back end of the car around, faster than the AH can react to try save you, and a easy way to wreck out even with AH still on.
Here is what rear end snap hook looks like with the rear tires spinning then get a split second of bite.
Note, C6 tends to rear end snap hook with the tires spinning to the left (back end kicking out to the right), while the C7 tends to snap hook to the right with the tire spinning isntead (back end kicking out to the left).
The glitch, with rear wheel spin can come wheel hop real fast, and when wheel hop happens, it's the fastest way to grenade the differential.
So again, one button push on the TC button will turn the TC off. Two pushes on the TC button will put you into comp mode (with TC still off). once more push after the two button pushes will put you back into all nannies on/normal mode. Or from the start, just push the TC button in for 5 seconds, and this will turn off all the nannies, with the exception of ABS which stay on.
So TC off mode allows the rear tires to spin, without TC jumping in to stop the rear wheels from spinning.
Standard mode, compared to comp mode, will allow the rear end to side step out farther, before AH kicks in to try to bring the back end up and get the car straight isntead.
All off mode, your on your own, and the back end can come all the way around to going down the track rear end first, and AH will not kick in to try to save you.
Also to point out, in TC off mode and the rear tires spinning as you are moving forward, the tires can grab hard enough to snap hook the back end of the car around, faster than the AH can react to try save you, and a easy way to wreck out even with AH still on.
Here is what rear end snap hook looks like with the rear tires spinning then get a split second of bite.
Note, C6 tends to rear end snap hook with the tires spinning to the left (back end kicking out to the right), while the C7 tends to snap hook to the right with the tire spinning isntead (back end kicking out to the left).
Last edited by Dano523; 07-23-2018 at 12:14 AM.
07-23-2018, 02:48 AM
#9
Instructor
Funny you ask this because I just installed a new OEM style Powerbond tonight, yet I happened to read the torque specs on the 7.0L page instead of the 6.2L! Given that I went about 230 degrees (as best i could measure) instead of 140, I'm wondering if I should remove and replace with a new OEM bolt, hoping I didn't ruin any threads in the crank!
07-27-2018, 09:37 PM
#10
Racer
That is such a great video-- I'm gonna go out and try all those moves. -- NOT.
Got my Vette back from Corvette Connection today, and this seems to be the easy route. Less than a grand for the HB replacement done right, new belts, tensioner and idler replaced. And from a traffic light today I was able to get a good squeak from the tires, without switching off the TC. I think I'll work up to anything more radical just a little at a time. Maybe find a nice big parking lot to work up a little experience.
Got my Vette back from Corvette Connection today, and this seems to be the easy route. Less than a grand for the HB replacement done right, new belts, tensioner and idler replaced. And from a traffic light today I was able to get a good squeak from the tires, without switching off the TC. I think I'll work up to anything more radical just a little at a time. Maybe find a nice big parking lot to work up a little experience.