What have you done for the starter heat soak problem, z06/427 motor
08-21-2018, 06:59 PM
#21
Cover is for the lower fuse box below the BCM, and you just need to spin the cover 180 degrees to get it correctly orientated with the snaps to lock it into to place.
08-21-2018, 07:12 PM
#22
As for your rocker switch, its working as designed.
Hence showing red means you have continuity through the switch, the add a fuse is allowing the voltage to go to the NPP controller to allow it to work/energize the NPP vacum solinod to allow the intake manifold vacuum to go to the muffler gates to close them.
So if you want the red part to mean that you don't have continuity through the switch in that position/no power to the NPP controller like the fuse has been pulled from the BCM , you just need to pull the rocker cover on the switch off (has side taps that you need to push in/housing sides out), then flip the rocker cover over in the housing so showing red means that the switch does not have continuity through it isntead..
Hence showing red means you have continuity through the switch, the add a fuse is allowing the voltage to go to the NPP controller to allow it to work/energize the NPP vacum solinod to allow the intake manifold vacuum to go to the muffler gates to close them.
So if you want the red part to mean that you don't have continuity through the switch in that position/no power to the NPP controller like the fuse has been pulled from the BCM , you just need to pull the rocker cover on the switch off (has side taps that you need to push in/housing sides out), then flip the rocker cover over in the housing so showing red means that the switch does not have continuity through it isntead..
Last edited by Dano523; 08-21-2018 at 07:15 PM.
08-21-2018, 07:40 PM
#23
As for your hot starter problem, still say to just pull the starter, pull the starter apart to clean it up and install a new solenoid, then install the $14 head shield when you are putting the starter back on so the problem does not come back.
Hence problem was not when the car was new/ you have done nothing to increase the compression on the motor, and now from the heat induced problem of the car older instead
Total cost will be $45 with new solenoid and heat shield, and if that does not solve the problem, then you know that you have loose electrical connection problem up line of the starter that is being heat induced isntead, since as the engine block ground point that is just above the starter on the block).
Again, relay is firing the starter to begin with, so we no that the problem is not on the control side of the math with the fuse block relay and it wiring to the solenod, but the main power going to the starter instead.
So short bus here, ground from engine block, to bell housing, to starter body, to bushing plate.coils- bushing- armature commutator .
On the positive side, battery to solenoid terminal, through the wheel/plate contacts to the other terminal the solenoid, to the bushing contact, bushing and the other side of the armature commutator.
We Know that the armature is fine, since the motor will cold start fine/did not have this problem when the motor was hot and the car new, so its a heat problem through the above circuits now that is causing the energy path flow problems (less amperage) when the motor is hot; if not a dry/binding starter bearing problems induced by the heat isntead.
Note, I know you know how to grease bearings, so if the starter bearings do need to be re-greased, should not be a problem for you.
Hence problem was not when the car was new/ you have done nothing to increase the compression on the motor, and now from the heat induced problem of the car older instead
Total cost will be $45 with new solenoid and heat shield, and if that does not solve the problem, then you know that you have loose electrical connection problem up line of the starter that is being heat induced isntead, since as the engine block ground point that is just above the starter on the block).
Again, relay is firing the starter to begin with, so we no that the problem is not on the control side of the math with the fuse block relay and it wiring to the solenod, but the main power going to the starter instead.
So short bus here, ground from engine block, to bell housing, to starter body, to bushing plate.coils- bushing- armature commutator .
On the positive side, battery to solenoid terminal, through the wheel/plate contacts to the other terminal the solenoid, to the bushing contact, bushing and the other side of the armature commutator.
We Know that the armature is fine, since the motor will cold start fine/did not have this problem when the motor was hot and the car new, so its a heat problem through the above circuits now that is causing the energy path flow problems (less amperage) when the motor is hot; if not a dry/binding starter bearing problems induced by the heat isntead.
Note, I know you know how to grease bearings, so if the starter bearings do need to be re-greased, should not be a problem for you.
08-22-2018, 01:45 PM
#24
Race Director
Thread Starter
As for your rocker switch, its working as designed.
Hence showing red means you have continuity through the switch, the add a fuse is allowing the voltage to go to the NPP controller to allow it to work/energize the NPP vacum solinod to allow the intake manifold vacuum to go to the muffler gates to close them.
So if you want the red part to mean that you don't have continuity through the switch in that position/no power to the NPP controller like the fuse has been pulled from the BCM , you just need to pull the rocker cover on the switch off (has side taps that you need to push in/housing sides out), then flip the rocker cover over in the housing so showing red means that the switch does not have continuity through it isntead..
https://youtu.be/2G0u049Pucs
Hence showing red means you have continuity through the switch, the add a fuse is allowing the voltage to go to the NPP controller to allow it to work/energize the NPP vacum solinod to allow the intake manifold vacuum to go to the muffler gates to close them.
So if you want the red part to mean that you don't have continuity through the switch in that position/no power to the NPP controller like the fuse has been pulled from the BCM , you just need to pull the rocker cover on the switch off (has side taps that you need to push in/housing sides out), then flip the rocker cover over in the housing so showing red means that the switch does not have continuity through it isntead..
https://youtu.be/2G0u049Pucs
Ah Ha I was overthinking things as is sometimes the case, you rock.
08-22-2018, 01:49 PM
#25
Race Director
Thread Starter
As for your hot starter problem, still say to just pull the starter, pull the starter apart to clean it up and install a new solenoid, then install the $14 head shield when you are putting the starter back on so the problem does not come back.
Hence problem was not when the car was new/ you have done nothing to increase the compression on the motor, and now from the heat induced problem of the car older instead
Total cost will be $45 with new solenoid and heat shield, and if that does not solve the problem, then you know that you have loose electrical connection problem up line of the starter that is being heat induced isntead, since as the engine block ground point that is just above the starter on the block).
Again, relay is firing the starter to begin with, so we no that the problem is not on the control side of the math with the fuse block relay and it wiring to the solenod, but the main power going to the starter instead.
So short bus here, ground from engine block, to bell housing, to starter body, to bushing plate.coils- bushing- armature commutator .
On the positive side, battery to solenoid terminal, through the wheel/plate contacts to the other terminal the solenoid, to the bushing contact, bushing and the other side of the armature commutator.
We Know that the armature is fine, since the motor will cold start fine/did not have this problem when the motor was hot and the car new, so its a heat problem through the above circuits now that is causing the energy path flow problems (less amperage) when the motor is hot; if not a dry/binding starter bearing problems induced by the heat isntead.
Note, I know you know how to grease bearings, so if the starter bearings do need to be re-greased, should not be a problem for you.
Hence problem was not when the car was new/ you have done nothing to increase the compression on the motor, and now from the heat induced problem of the car older instead
Total cost will be $45 with new solenoid and heat shield, and if that does not solve the problem, then you know that you have loose electrical connection problem up line of the starter that is being heat induced isntead, since as the engine block ground point that is just above the starter on the block).
Again, relay is firing the starter to begin with, so we no that the problem is not on the control side of the math with the fuse block relay and it wiring to the solenod, but the main power going to the starter instead.
So short bus here, ground from engine block, to bell housing, to starter body, to bushing plate.coils- bushing- armature commutator .
On the positive side, battery to solenoid terminal, through the wheel/plate contacts to the other terminal the solenoid, to the bushing contact, bushing and the other side of the armature commutator.
We Know that the armature is fine, since the motor will cold start fine/did not have this problem when the motor was hot and the car new, so its a heat problem through the above circuits now that is causing the energy path flow problems (less amperage) when the motor is hot; if not a dry/binding starter bearing problems induced by the heat isntead.
Note, I know you know how to grease bearings, so if the starter bearings do need to be re-greased, should not be a problem for you.
08-22-2018, 07:33 PM
#26
Here you go, and remember that the problem really comes down to the disc/bar arch pitting to bottom face of studs over time as shown in the video I posted on how solenoids work, so its the problem that your chasing on all the solenoids, no matter if its labeled GM/Delco, or one of the manufacturers that makes them, for Gm/Delco to resell isntead.
Hence Delco 10503939, Delco part # 66-161 , Waiglobal #66-161, or a few other numbers that same solenoid goes by.
As for once you have the starter apart and cleaned up, pay very close attention to the ground path points of the bushing plate to ground back to the front body bolting point to bell housing of the starter before you bolt it back together, using 400 sand paper to clean the contact point surfaces so they achive a very good ground.
Hence the positive side bushing it bolted to the solenoid terminal, so it a no brainer, but the bushing plate ground to body, not so ideal that heat/time can effect it since it a metal to aluminum instead. Simply bare alumniam can oxide over time all on it own to cause conductivity problems, and the reason that when you are cleaning up an alternator, you need to sand the contact points of the aluminum body parts (and use a little dielectric grease) before you bolt the voltage regulator plate back on.
Attachment 48331674
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
Last edited by Dano523; 08-22-2018 at 07:48 PM.
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froggy47 (08-23-2018)
09-23-2018, 06:33 PM
#27
Race Director
Thread Starter
DEI works. :)
I installed the cat cover and the pipe in between the 2 cats (2013=2 cats each side). Tested by running hard, 5 min shut down (heat soak avg for a tank of gas or in between autox runs). Guess what, MUCH improvement, not rocket science, but keep the heat off the starter is bueno. I don't have to cross my fingers and hold my breath each hot start any more. I am going to cover the starter too, but ordered a solenoid so I can do a rebuild on it first. Thanks Tim & DEI.
Videos:
I'm trying a new camera app & the color balance is a bit off on the 2nd.
Enjoy, Froggy
Videos:
I'm trying a new camera app & the color balance is a bit off on the 2nd.
Enjoy, Froggy
Last edited by froggy47; 09-23-2018 at 06:37 PM.
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DEITIM (09-24-2018)
09-24-2018, 02:53 PM
#28
I will be installing LTH and off road xpipe on my base '08 soon. They will be ceramic coated. Is it still recommended to purchase that starter heat shield?
09-24-2018, 03:04 PM
#29
Race Director
Thread Starter
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09-24-2018, 03:38 PM
#30
$15 and your heat problem is solved.
https://youtu.be/DukuTN0rTcI
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...ters,5745.html
https://youtu.be/DukuTN0rTcI
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...ters,5745.html
09-24-2018, 04:16 PM
#31
Race Director
Thread Starter
I know this is directed to Dano, but let me just throw out a couple of thoughts, I guess since you'll have everything apart, access to the starter (removing it to install the metal shield) is not an issue. For anyone else, you can slip the "soft" shield around the starter without removal, I believe. The other thing would be a possible rub/rattle/vibration/noise with the metal one. If your car is loud enough (haha) it won't matter, but some might not like that possible "buzzing/rattling".
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DEITIM (09-24-2018)
09-25-2018, 01:32 AM
#32
Yes mini starter one, and just watch the video for the needed mods to get it fit correctly.
09-25-2018, 02:21 AM
#33
IMO I would, LTH are going to generate a ton of heat (technical jargon), I would wrap them too. DEI has the best wrap I've used so far, you don't have to wet the titanium. Really there is nothing worse than being on track/autox or just a cruise, stopping for gas and then you can't get started because the stupid starter is heat soaked. Really GM should have done better.
When you pull the starter apart, it's give you a good time to clean out the brushing dust and other debries out of the assembly, check the bronze bushing so make sure they are not worn and need to be replace, check the brushes is they are worn and need to be replaced as well. as well as regrease the needed parts as well.
Worst case and you have to replace the bronze bushing, needle bearing and the brushes, your out a whole $10.
Truth is, I will never wrap a cat, since it holds the heat in it, and shortens the life of the cat. On the down pipe, may have pulled it to ceramic coat it (with the cat tapped off so it does not get coated for the heat problem to it), but easy to just put a heat shield on the starter to stop the direct radiant heat to it after the starter has been refreshed instead.
But yes, you can slip over a heat type blanket on the starter without having to pull it if needed.
Really, I just needs to get my hands on a basket case C6 starter to do a full rebuild on one, including brushes and even the bronze bushing (spend the whole $10), Use the cheapest solenoid that I can find ($14) to keep the full parts list under $26, so I can do a write up such with photo's for the lads here. I'm not in the mood to strip the one out of my C6 to freshen it up again, but if someone has a dead C6 starter sitting around that want to donate to the cause, can do the write on rebuilding it, and including a store bought parts list of parts that you may need as well.
Primer in the mean time on the PG260 starter series until I get a chance to get my hands on a C6 starter to do a full write up with photo's on it specifically isntead.
Hence bent bars straighten back out with care, then put in the lathe to clean up and surface the bars faces next, followed by cleaning the spaces between them.
Last edited by Dano523; 09-25-2018 at 02:34 AM.
09-25-2018, 09:06 AM
#34
Former Vendor
Froggy, don't punk out on use Now!!!!!!
When you pull the starter apart, it's give you a good time to clean out the brushing dust and other debries out of the assembly, check the bronze bushing so make sure they are not worn and need to be replace, check the brushes is they are worn and need to be replaced as well. as well as regrease the needed parts as well.
Worst case and you have to replace the bronze bushing, needle bearing and the brushes, your out a whole $10.
Truth is, I will never wrap a cat, since it holds the heat in it, and shortens the life of the cat. On the down pipe, may have pulled it to ceramic coat it (with the cat tapped off so it does not get coated for the heat problem to it), but easy to just put a heat shield on the starter to stop the direct radiant heat to it after the starter has been refreshed instead.
But yes, you can slip over a heat type blanket on the starter without having to pull it if needed.
Really, I just needs to get my hands on a basket case C6 starter to do a full rebuild on one, including brushes and even the bronze bushing (spend the whole $10), Use the cheapest solenoid that I can find ($14) to keep the full parts list under $26, so I can do a write up such with photo's for the lads here. I'm not in the mood to strip the one out of my C6 to freshen it up again, but if someone has a dead C6 starter sitting around that want to donate to the cause, can do the write on rebuilding it, and including a store bought parts list of parts that you may need as well.
Primer in the mean time on the PG260 starter series until I get a chance to get my hands on a C6 starter to do a full write up with photo's on it specifically isntead.
https://youtu.be/e6drDl08luo
Note; at 15:09, he call that armature not usable, but have bough worse back from the dead instead.
Hence bent bars straighten back out with care, then put in the lathe to clean up and surface the bars faces next, followed by cleaning the spaces between them.
When you pull the starter apart, it's give you a good time to clean out the brushing dust and other debries out of the assembly, check the bronze bushing so make sure they are not worn and need to be replace, check the brushes is they are worn and need to be replaced as well. as well as regrease the needed parts as well.
Worst case and you have to replace the bronze bushing, needle bearing and the brushes, your out a whole $10.
Truth is, I will never wrap a cat, since it holds the heat in it, and shortens the life of the cat. On the down pipe, may have pulled it to ceramic coat it (with the cat tapped off so it does not get coated for the heat problem to it), but easy to just put a heat shield on the starter to stop the direct radiant heat to it after the starter has been refreshed instead.
But yes, you can slip over a heat type blanket on the starter without having to pull it if needed.
Really, I just needs to get my hands on a basket case C6 starter to do a full rebuild on one, including brushes and even the bronze bushing (spend the whole $10), Use the cheapest solenoid that I can find ($14) to keep the full parts list under $26, so I can do a write up such with photo's for the lads here. I'm not in the mood to strip the one out of my C6 to freshen it up again, but if someone has a dead C6 starter sitting around that want to donate to the cause, can do the write on rebuilding it, and including a store bought parts list of parts that you may need as well.
Primer in the mean time on the PG260 starter series until I get a chance to get my hands on a C6 starter to do a full write up with photo's on it specifically isntead.
https://youtu.be/e6drDl08luo
Note; at 15:09, he call that armature not usable, but have bough worse back from the dead instead.
Hence bent bars straighten back out with care, then put in the lathe to clean up and surface the bars faces next, followed by cleaning the spaces between them.
I want to jump in on the wrapping the cat part of your thread. We will never recommend wrapping a catalytic converter. As you are correct by stating that if you hold heat into the converter you it will shorten the life span of the converter. The cat shield I provided for Froggy has stand offs on it to allow the catalytic converter to breathe and still block heat from getting to the starter. Also, I don't believe the wrapping the small section of pipe between the two cats is going to hold enough heat to dramatically shorten the lifespan of the second cat. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Thank you,
Tim
09-25-2018, 01:18 PM
#35
Race Director
Thread Starter
Froggy, don't punk out on use Now!!!!!!
When you pull the starter apart, it's give you a good time to clean out the brushing dust and other debries out of the assembly, check the bronze bushing so make sure they are not worn and need to be replace, check the brushes is they are worn and need to be replaced as well. as well as regrease the needed parts as well.
Worst case and you have to replace the bronze bushing, needle bearing and the brushes, your out a whole $10.
Truth is, I will never wrap a cat, since it holds the heat in it, and shortens the life of the cat. On the down pipe, may have pulled it to ceramic coat it (with the cat tapped off so it does not get coated for the heat problem to it), but easy to just put a heat shield on the starter to stop the direct radiant heat to it after the starter has been refreshed instead.
But yes, you can slip over a heat type blanket on the starter without having to pull it if needed.
Really, I just needs to get my hands on a basket case C6 starter to do a full rebuild on one, including brushes and even the bronze bushing (spend the whole $10), Use the cheapest solenoid that I can find ($14) to keep the full parts list under $26, so I can do a write up such with photo's for the lads here. I'm not in the mood to strip the one out of my C6 to freshen it up again, but if someone has a dead C6 starter sitting around that want to donate to the cause, can do the write on rebuilding it, and including a store bought parts list of parts that you may need as well.
Primer in the mean time on the PG260 starter series until I get a chance to get my hands on a C6 starter to do a full write up with photo's on it specifically isntead.
https://youtu.be/e6drDl08luo
Note; at 15:09, he call that armature not usable, but have bough worse back from the dead instead.
Hence bent bars straighten back out with care, then put in the lathe to clean up and surface the bars faces next, followed by cleaning the spaces between them.
When you pull the starter apart, it's give you a good time to clean out the brushing dust and other debries out of the assembly, check the bronze bushing so make sure they are not worn and need to be replace, check the brushes is they are worn and need to be replaced as well. as well as regrease the needed parts as well.
Worst case and you have to replace the bronze bushing, needle bearing and the brushes, your out a whole $10.
Truth is, I will never wrap a cat, since it holds the heat in it, and shortens the life of the cat. On the down pipe, may have pulled it to ceramic coat it (with the cat tapped off so it does not get coated for the heat problem to it), but easy to just put a heat shield on the starter to stop the direct radiant heat to it after the starter has been refreshed instead.
But yes, you can slip over a heat type blanket on the starter without having to pull it if needed.
Really, I just needs to get my hands on a basket case C6 starter to do a full rebuild on one, including brushes and even the bronze bushing (spend the whole $10), Use the cheapest solenoid that I can find ($14) to keep the full parts list under $26, so I can do a write up such with photo's for the lads here. I'm not in the mood to strip the one out of my C6 to freshen it up again, but if someone has a dead C6 starter sitting around that want to donate to the cause, can do the write on rebuilding it, and including a store bought parts list of parts that you may need as well.
Primer in the mean time on the PG260 starter series until I get a chance to get my hands on a C6 starter to do a full write up with photo's on it specifically isntead.
https://youtu.be/e6drDl08luo
Note; at 15:09, he call that armature not usable, but have bough worse back from the dead instead.
Hence bent bars straighten back out with care, then put in the lathe to clean up and surface the bars faces next, followed by cleaning the spaces between them.
As for wrapping the cat, IMO and I feel pretty strong on this, the DEI "wrap" is more of a soft shield than a wrap. When I laid it out on my bench, I honestly shook my head and went WOW, this is awesome piece of engineering. It's like one of those little bits you see on a space station to shield parts against the sun. Mostly it does not touch the cat at all, it's about a 1/2 inch clear and air can get all around it. Also about 20% of the circumference is full open to the air (what points away from the starter). I don't see that it is any different in function than a metal shield like is found on almost all cats on any car to direct heat away from passengers/parts. I think from our discussions you have an open mind, so I would ask that you rethink this one & check my video again. I would not have it on my car if I thought it was going to kill the cat, they are not cheap.
Last edited by froggy47; 09-25-2018 at 01:21 PM.
09-26-2018, 09:38 PM
#36
Hi Dano,
I want to jump in on the wrapping the cat part of your thread. We will never recommend wrapping a catalytic converter. As you are correct by stating that if you hold heat into the converter you it will shorten the life span of the converter. The cat shield I provided for Froggy has stand offs on it to allow the catalytic converter to breathe and still block heat from getting to the starter. Also, I don't believe the wrapping the small section of pipe between the two cats is going to hold enough heat to dramatically shorten the lifespan of the second cat. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Thank you,
Tim
I want to jump in on the wrapping the cat part of your thread. We will never recommend wrapping a catalytic converter. As you are correct by stating that if you hold heat into the converter you it will shorten the life span of the converter. The cat shield I provided for Froggy has stand offs on it to allow the catalytic converter to breathe and still block heat from getting to the starter. Also, I don't believe the wrapping the small section of pipe between the two cats is going to hold enough heat to dramatically shorten the lifespan of the second cat. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
Thank you,
Tim
09-27-2018, 09:02 AM
#37
Froggy, let me put it this way,
Not a fan of trapping heat of any kind on the cat's, or even blocking the air flow past them, since it will shorten their life.
As for heat tapping down pipe, never been a fan of such, since what the wrap can trap itself. So if reduction of heat radiation is needed, then ceramic coating just does a better job without the fear of trapping instead.
So problem is heat soak to the starter alone since the cat and down pipe are not having problems themselves, and the simple $14 heat shield on the starter alone, solves the problem nicely without all the needed extra work of trapping in heat of other parts.
As for the starter now with heat soak problems, being that is has seen a lot of heat soak to begin with, it needs to be pulled down to be cleaned/greased/refreshend, then the heat shield install on it.
Regarding starter heat shields, it's kind of just luck of the draw that someone did find a $14 unit that works, since before such, were faced with bolt on built units in the $80 range, just breaking metal to make one yourself, or heat blanks that again, can trap debris.
Regarding this thread, since it seems to turned vendor product pimping with a lot of extra products and work to promote sales (that I don't see begin needed to start with due to there short comings long term), I wash my hands of this thread and lets just let it go at that. Simply put, debating with a paid vendor to put anything of their products in an off-color just end up with either the response deleted by staff, or just being ban from the site instead (not mater if the point is valid or not).
Cheers,
Dano523
Not a fan of trapping heat of any kind on the cat's, or even blocking the air flow past them, since it will shorten their life.
As for heat tapping down pipe, never been a fan of such, since what the wrap can trap itself. So if reduction of heat radiation is needed, then ceramic coating just does a better job without the fear of trapping instead.
So problem is heat soak to the starter alone since the cat and down pipe are not having problems themselves, and the simple $14 heat shield on the starter alone, solves the problem nicely without all the needed extra work of trapping in heat of other parts.
As for the starter now with heat soak problems, being that is has seen a lot of heat soak to begin with, it needs to be pulled down to be cleaned/greased/refreshend, then the heat shield install on it.
Regarding starter heat shields, it's kind of just luck of the draw that someone did find a $14 unit that works, since before such, were faced with bolt on built units in the $80 range, just breaking metal to make one yourself, or heat blanks that again, can trap debris.
Regarding this thread, since it seems to turned vendor product pimping with a lot of extra products and work to promote sales (that I don't see begin needed to start with due to there short comings long term), I wash my hands of this thread and lets just let it go at that. Simply put, debating with a paid vendor to put anything of their products in an off-color just end up with either the response deleted by staff, or just being ban from the site instead (not mater if the point is valid or not).
Cheers,
Dano523
09-27-2018, 07:31 PM
#38
Thank you Froggy for posting the video and bringing this product to my attention. Thank You DEI and all the other vendors for developing products that help all of us make our cars better and make up for the short comings that should have been addressed at GM.
09-28-2018, 04:52 AM
#39
Race Director
Thread Starter
Froggy, let me put it this way,
Not a fan of trapping heat of any kind on the cat's, or even blocking the air flow past them, since it will shorten their life.
As for heat tapping down pipe, never been a fan of such, since what the wrap can trap itself. So if reduction of heat radiation is needed, then ceramic coating just does a better job without the fear of trapping instead.
So problem is heat soak to the starter alone since the cat and down pipe are not having problems themselves, and the simple $14 heat shield on the starter alone, solves the problem nicely without all the needed extra work of trapping in heat of other parts.
As for the starter now with heat soak problems, being that is has seen a lot of heat soak to begin with, it needs to be pulled down to be cleaned/greased/refreshend, then the heat shield install on it.
Regarding starter heat shields, it's kind of just luck of the draw that someone did find a $14 unit that works, since before such, were faced with bolt on built units in the $80 range, just breaking metal to make one yourself, or heat blanks that again, can trap debris.
Regarding this thread, since it seems to turned vendor product pimping with a lot of extra products and work to promote sales (that I don't see begin needed to start with due to there short comings long term), I wash my hands of this thread and lets just let it go at that. Simply put, debating with a paid vendor to put anything of their products in an off-color just end up with either the response deleted by staff, or just being ban from the site instead (not mater if the point is valid or not).
Cheers,
Dano523
Not a fan of trapping heat of any kind on the cat's, or even blocking the air flow past them, since it will shorten their life.
As for heat tapping down pipe, never been a fan of such, since what the wrap can trap itself. So if reduction of heat radiation is needed, then ceramic coating just does a better job without the fear of trapping instead.
So problem is heat soak to the starter alone since the cat and down pipe are not having problems themselves, and the simple $14 heat shield on the starter alone, solves the problem nicely without all the needed extra work of trapping in heat of other parts.
As for the starter now with heat soak problems, being that is has seen a lot of heat soak to begin with, it needs to be pulled down to be cleaned/greased/refreshend, then the heat shield install on it.
Regarding starter heat shields, it's kind of just luck of the draw that someone did find a $14 unit that works, since before such, were faced with bolt on built units in the $80 range, just breaking metal to make one yourself, or heat blanks that again, can trap debris.
Regarding this thread, since it seems to turned vendor product pimping with a lot of extra products and work to promote sales (that I don't see begin needed to start with due to there short comings long term), I wash my hands of this thread and lets just let it go at that. Simply put, debating with a paid vendor to put anything of their products in an off-color just end up with either the response deleted by staff, or just being ban from the site instead (not mater if the point is valid or not).
Cheers,
Dano523
If something is junk I call it, if something works I call it. No hidden agenda.
My participation & videos are for only one thing really, to help other guys/gals work on and enjoy these beautiful American cars. I love working on and driving Vettes even when I have a tough day in the garage on my back under the car or over the fender.
Cheers back at ya.
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427C62013A (10-08-2018)
09-29-2018, 03:56 PM
#40
Race Director
Thread Starter
Has anyone used one of the Chinese solenoids with a shielded starter? I don't want to do it over. Is the Delco better? I know the Delco fails but it's the heat.
So which part do you guys think, there are a ton of knock offs. Substitutes. I know some are equal, some are better, some are crap.
So which part do you guys think, there are a ton of knock offs. Substitutes. I know some are equal, some are better, some are crap.