Clutch Advice 520/480ish hp/tq C6 LS3
#1
Clutch Advice 520/480ish hp/tq C6 LS3
In the process of completing build now. Based on the outcome of similar setups, I'm expecting something like 520/480 whp/tq all said and done. Stock clutch has 60k on it at about 415whp/tq. I know the stock clutch will last me for a little while, so long as I don't take it to the strip or abuse the clutch. My question is, what else is out there that will handle this power level, be daily driver/traffic jam friendly, allow me a few passes at the drag strip (literally just a handful to put down a number with the new setup), and maybe even shave a few pounds off the rotating mass? I've looked a little at the mantic 9000 twin, but it seems kind of overkill for my use. It's just really hard to get a feel for what will work for me, since alot of these discussions are around cars running 700-1000whp.
To be clear, I will not be going FI with this car at any point, so significantly more tq down the line is not a consideration. Thanks in advance for input.
To be clear, I will not be going FI with this car at any point, so significantly more tq down the line is not a consideration. Thanks in advance for input.
#2
Le Mans Master
I would contact Monster Clutch and see what they recommend.
#3
Pro
MMS Lightened RPS BC2
Feels very close to stock pedal pressure, 24 lbs lighter then stock, handles 750 HP,
still daily driveable, compared to the superlight Mantics, more expensive then
Monster or the McCleod Twins, but you get what you pay for.
Feels very close to stock pedal pressure, 24 lbs lighter then stock, handles 750 HP,
still daily driveable, compared to the superlight Mantics, more expensive then
Monster or the McCleod Twins, but you get what you pay for.
#4
Does it make that noise under 2,000 rpm's that most aftermarket, non organic clutches seem to make?
#5
Safety Car
[QUOTE=Bigwebb;1597915178]In the process of completing build now. Based on the outcome of similar setups, I'm expecting something like 520/480 whp/tq all said and done. Stock clutch has 60k on it at about 415whp/tq. I know the stock clutch will last me for a little while, so long as I don't take it to the strip or abuse the clutch. My question is, what else is out there that will handle this power level, be daily driver/traffic jam friendly, allow me a few passes at the drag strip (literally just a handful to put down a number with the new setup), and maybe even shave a few pounds off the rotating mass? I've looked a little at the mantic 9000 twin, but it seems kind of overkill for my use. It's just really hard to get a feel for what will work for me, since alot of these discussions are around cars running 700-1000whp.
To be clear, I will not be going FI with this car at any point, so significantly more tq down the line is not a consideration. Thanks in advance for input.[/QUOT
Update: I have read there have been issues with the ER2 clutch so I retract my recommendation on that clutch and would go with Mantic 9000 dual disc.
How about Mantic ER2 single disc at less than half the price of a twin disc Mantic?
To be clear, I will not be going FI with this car at any point, so significantly more tq down the line is not a consideration. Thanks in advance for input.[/QUOT
Update: I have read there have been issues with the ER2 clutch so I retract my recommendation on that clutch and would go with Mantic 9000 dual disc.
How about Mantic ER2 single disc at less than half the price of a twin disc Mantic?
Last edited by Mike's LS3; 09-08-2018 at 12:38 PM.
#6
#7
I would like something lighter, but everything I'm reading is telling me that lighter clutch = shittier daily driving characteristics with a cammed car. I'm coming to the conclusion that I could probably go about 10-15 pounds lighter than stock and not give up much there. Looks like Mcleod has some decent offerings, but I'm scared to death of their QC issues.
#8
What's the car going to be use for?
LS2/3/7 clutch is dirt cheap when it needs to be replaced from launch slipping it to wear it out, will hold the power you will have, and not only quiet street drive, but same pedal habits as your used to.
Hence LS2 first started with it own clutch that has a little less holding poer, but was replaced with the LS3/7 clutch as it replacement clutch, so only 2 oem clutches for the LS motors.
As for after market clutches, some have lighter flywheels, or lighter clutch assemblies so easier to stall the car, some need more pedal pressure, some have chatter with pedal in at a stop light, some will not clutch slip to save your life such as non organic , but it really boils down to what your going to use the clutch for, since clutch slip launches are to clutch slip launches, which will wear all the clutch's about the same amount of time.
LS2/3/7 clutch is dirt cheap when it needs to be replaced from launch slipping it to wear it out, will hold the power you will have, and not only quiet street drive, but same pedal habits as your used to.
Hence LS2 first started with it own clutch that has a little less holding poer, but was replaced with the LS3/7 clutch as it replacement clutch, so only 2 oem clutches for the LS motors.
As for after market clutches, some have lighter flywheels, or lighter clutch assemblies so easier to stall the car, some need more pedal pressure, some have chatter with pedal in at a stop light, some will not clutch slip to save your life such as non organic , but it really boils down to what your going to use the clutch for, since clutch slip launches are to clutch slip launches, which will wear all the clutch's about the same amount of time.
#9
What's the car going to be use for?
LS2/3/7 clutch is dirt cheap when it needs to be replaced from launch slipping it to wear it out, will hold the power you will have, and not only quiet street drive, but same pedal habits as your used to.
Hence LS2 first started with it own clutch that has a little less holding poer, but was replaced with the LS3/7 clutch as it replacement clutch, so only 2 oem clutches for the LS motors.
As for after market clutches, some have lighter flywheels, or lighter clutch assemblies so easier to stall the car, some need more pedal pressure, some have chatter with pedal in at a stop light, some will not clutch slip to save your life such as non organic , but it really boils down to what your going to use the clutch for, since clutch slip launches are to clutch slip launches, which will wear all the clutch's about the same amount of time.
LS2/3/7 clutch is dirt cheap when it needs to be replaced from launch slipping it to wear it out, will hold the power you will have, and not only quiet street drive, but same pedal habits as your used to.
Hence LS2 first started with it own clutch that has a little less holding poer, but was replaced with the LS3/7 clutch as it replacement clutch, so only 2 oem clutches for the LS motors.
As for after market clutches, some have lighter flywheels, or lighter clutch assemblies so easier to stall the car, some need more pedal pressure, some have chatter with pedal in at a stop light, some will not clutch slip to save your life such as non organic , but it really boils down to what your going to use the clutch for, since clutch slip launches are to clutch slip launches, which will wear all the clutch's about the same amount of time.
The car will be used for street driving primarily. Mostly spirited driving on backroads, but may end up in traffic once or twice a month. I do about 2-3 HPDE's a year, and I will probably take it to the strip once with the new setup to lay down a time (likely 5-6 passes, but no high rpm launches). I suppose there is a small chance that down the road I will put some DR's on it and do 2-3 high rpm launches at the strip to try and see just how fast the car will run, but I don't want to make my clutch plans around that. If I end up with something that meets all of my needs, but doesn't like high rpm launches, I'll just stay away from that.
thanks,
Daniel
#10
Bring me up to speed on your talent level in HPDE , and if you do a lot of clutch slipping on higher gears coming out of corners so you don't have to shift before you finish the corner after the apex on the push out.
Everything else is telling me you would be fine with the OEM LS7 clutch since it still helps to protect the drive line, but not if you are doing a lot of clutch slipping on corners lap after lap on the HPDE events since the LS7 clutch does not like to be slipped high rpms isntead.
Everything else is telling me you would be fine with the OEM LS7 clutch since it still helps to protect the drive line, but not if you are doing a lot of clutch slipping on corners lap after lap on the HPDE events since the LS7 clutch does not like to be slipped high rpms isntead.
#11
Bring me up to speed on your talent level in HPDE , and if you do a lot of clutch slipping on higher gears coming out of corners so you don't have to shift before you finish the corner after the apex on the push out.
Everything else is telling me you would be fine with the OEM LS7 clutch since it still helps to protect the drive line, but not if you are doing a lot of clutch slipping on corners lap after lap on the HPDE events since the LS7 clutch does not like to be slipped high rpms isntead.
Everything else is telling me you would be fine with the OEM LS7 clutch since it still helps to protect the drive line, but not if you are doing a lot of clutch slipping on corners lap after lap on the HPDE events since the LS7 clutch does not like to be slipped high rpms isntead.
#12
I should also say that increased pedal effort is not a huge concern for me. Really don't want noise though. Would love to shave some MOI, as I'm realizing that the stock clutch kills us there.
#14
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Always liked dual friction clutches and a FW of 25-low 30ish on the street, especially if you dont have a low gear. With more cubes it doesnt seem to matter quite as much
The are smooth, not an on/off switch and make no noise that I can tell.
Cant stand the way grabby clutches and 11 lb fw feel on the street. The noise, chatter is annoying.
The are smooth, not an on/off switch and make no noise that I can tell.
Cant stand the way grabby clutches and 11 lb fw feel on the street. The noise, chatter is annoying.
Last edited by cv67; 09-06-2018 at 11:38 PM.
#16
#17
Pro
Daniel,
Check out a thread on LS1 Tech by DarthV8r on the MMS RPS Clutch, over 5 pages, 100+ posts,
pre & post install with photos and review, even after 15,000+ Daily driven street and track miles,
virtually no wear after swapping out 540 RWHP 5.7 for a 600+ RWHP 428" LS7.
Great Info and I am sure he would answer any questions you might have.
Dan
Check out a thread on LS1 Tech by DarthV8r on the MMS RPS Clutch, over 5 pages, 100+ posts,
pre & post install with photos and review, even after 15,000+ Daily driven street and track miles,
virtually no wear after swapping out 540 RWHP 5.7 for a 600+ RWHP 428" LS7.
Great Info and I am sure he would answer any questions you might have.
Dan
#18
Pro
I have a c5 instead of a c6 and just switched from a 50# RXT to the Mamo RPS BC2, it’s somewhere around 31,32#’s, the rxt clutch, flywheel and balancing was 1200 and the rps is more than double the price, it seems to be a good clutch but might b overkill for what your wanting since your not going to be tracking it that often
Only have about 500 break in miles so can’t give reviews yet on how it does at dragstrip ect but as far as drive ability between it and the rxt in stop and go traffic there really isnt that much of a difference like I thought there would be from what I read on the internet, if you drove my car and didn’t know it had a lighter clutch you probably would never know the difference, I have a somewhat big cam, g5x3, makes 499 whp, does have 3.90 gears and m12 trans which may help drive ability also
I do like the fact that the clutch disks are very light compared to my heavy rxt discs and think this will make shifting at high rpm very easy