Anyone who has removed their rear axles want to tell me how you got them off?
09-18-2018, 11:38 PM
#1
Anyone who has removed their rear axles want to tell me how you got them off?
The ball joint on the lower control arm is acting as if it is just welded onto my wheel hub. I've got the upper control arm off, removed the tie rod, disconnected the shock, and now the lower control arm is just not coming off. I've been beating the devil out of the thing with a 3lb hammer. Starting to worry I'm going to bend it at this point. It looks like a chewed up mess and hasnt even budged.
Is there some other way to get this half shaft off? I ordered a T55 socket so I could maybe take the wheel bearing off without disconnecting it from the control arm. Not sure if that will work until I get the socket, though. I cant find any examples of someone else doing that.
Edit: Looks like the hex bolt on the ball joint would be in the way of the T55. No idea how I'm ever going to get this off.
Edit2: Attempted to rotate the hex bolt. The threaded rod with the hex in it. I dont know wtf its called. Attempted to rotate that with a 4 foot long cheater bar. My wrench broke before the bolt broke free. PB Blaster, WD40, 3lb hammer. I'm starting to think I might seriously have to cut the axle off. I've never in my life of working on cars encountered something this stuck before.
Is there some other way to get this half shaft off? I ordered a T55 socket so I could maybe take the wheel bearing off without disconnecting it from the control arm. Not sure if that will work until I get the socket, though. I cant find any examples of someone else doing that.
Edit: Looks like the hex bolt on the ball joint would be in the way of the T55. No idea how I'm ever going to get this off.
Edit2: Attempted to rotate the hex bolt. The threaded rod with the hex in it. I dont know wtf its called. Attempted to rotate that with a 4 foot long cheater bar. My wrench broke before the bolt broke free. PB Blaster, WD40, 3lb hammer. I'm starting to think I might seriously have to cut the axle off. I've never in my life of working on cars encountered something this stuck before.
Last edited by invadermoose; 09-19-2018 at 01:02 AM.
09-19-2018, 04:57 AM
#2
Instructor
PB, WD40 all have their purpose, but when it's time to get serious, go buy some Kroil. Just be careful on what all you use it on as it will continue to creep and kill seals. Maybe try an air hammer?
09-19-2018, 06:09 AM
#3
I’m trying to understand what you’re doing exactly, so bear with me: Are you trying to remove the hub assembly without removing the lower control arm from the spindle?
Because, IIRC, the lower ball joint stud and nut is in the way of one of the torx bolts that holds the hub assembly to the spindle, so you need to remove the lower ball joint to get the hub off. The easiest way to get the rear lower ball joint to release from the spindle is to screw the nut off until it’s flush with the end of the threads on the ball joint (this is so that you don’t damage the threads on the ball joint stud) and then stick the end of a pry bar into the space between the top of the ball joint nut and the axle end and pry downwards to push the ball joint out of the spindle. Once it releases, it literally drops down (since the shoulder of the ball joint stud is tapered) and once you take the ball joint nut off, you can push the lower control arm down to remove the ball joint to the spindle. To be honest, although I wouldn’t recommend that you don’t try this, to get the first one of mine out, I used a large cold chisel, wedged it into the space between the ball joint nut and the axle and tapped it with a 4 lb mallet and the ball joint immediately released from the spindle. It came out so easily like that that I pried the other one out.
BTW: If it’s the ball joint nut that you’re trying to break free, PB Blaster is the right stuff to soak it with, but if it’s really stuck, you may need to CAREFULLY use a propane torch and heat the nut a bit. Make sure that you’re turning the nut in the right direction to loosen it, by the way. Don’t ask why I say that. Use a good strong open end (obviously) wrench and a piece of pipe over the end of it as a “cheater bar” to break the nut free.
I hope I understand you correctly and that you find the foregoing helpful.
Because, IIRC, the lower ball joint stud and nut is in the way of one of the torx bolts that holds the hub assembly to the spindle, so you need to remove the lower ball joint to get the hub off. The easiest way to get the rear lower ball joint to release from the spindle is to screw the nut off until it’s flush with the end of the threads on the ball joint (this is so that you don’t damage the threads on the ball joint stud) and then stick the end of a pry bar into the space between the top of the ball joint nut and the axle end and pry downwards to push the ball joint out of the spindle. Once it releases, it literally drops down (since the shoulder of the ball joint stud is tapered) and once you take the ball joint nut off, you can push the lower control arm down to remove the ball joint to the spindle. To be honest, although I wouldn’t recommend that you don’t try this, to get the first one of mine out, I used a large cold chisel, wedged it into the space between the ball joint nut and the axle and tapped it with a 4 lb mallet and the ball joint immediately released from the spindle. It came out so easily like that that I pried the other one out.
BTW: If it’s the ball joint nut that you’re trying to break free, PB Blaster is the right stuff to soak it with, but if it’s really stuck, you may need to CAREFULLY use a propane torch and heat the nut a bit. Make sure that you’re turning the nut in the right direction to loosen it, by the way. Don’t ask why I say that. Use a good strong open end (obviously) wrench and a piece of pipe over the end of it as a “cheater bar” to break the nut free.
I hope I understand you correctly and that you find the foregoing helpful.
Last edited by CI GS; 09-19-2018 at 06:10 AM.
09-19-2018, 07:29 AM
#4
Safety Car
this
The ball joint on the lower control arm is acting as if it is just welded onto my wheel hub. I've got the upper control arm off, removed the tie rod, disconnected the shock, and now the lower control arm is just not coming off. I've been beating the devil out of the thing with a 3lb hammer. Starting to worry I'm going to bend it at this point. It looks like a chewed up mess and hasnt even budged.
Is there some other way to get this half shaft off? I ordered a T55 socket so I could maybe take the wheel bearing off without disconnecting it from the control arm. Not sure if that will work until I get the socket, though. I cant find any examples of someone else doing that.
Edit: Looks like the hex bolt on the ball joint would be in the way of the T55. No idea how I'm ever going to get this off.
Edit2: Attempted to rotate the hex bolt. The threaded rod with the hex in it. I dont know wtf its called. Attempted to rotate that with a 4 foot long cheater bar. My wrench broke before the bolt broke free. PB Blaster, WD40, 3lb hammer. I'm starting to think I might seriously have to cut the axle off. I've never in my life of working on cars encountered something this stuck before.
Is there some other way to get this half shaft off? I ordered a T55 socket so I could maybe take the wheel bearing off without disconnecting it from the control arm. Not sure if that will work until I get the socket, though. I cant find any examples of someone else doing that.
Edit: Looks like the hex bolt on the ball joint would be in the way of the T55. No idea how I'm ever going to get this off.
Edit2: Attempted to rotate the hex bolt. The threaded rod with the hex in it. I dont know wtf its called. Attempted to rotate that with a 4 foot long cheater bar. My wrench broke before the bolt broke free. PB Blaster, WD40, 3lb hammer. I'm starting to think I might seriously have to cut the axle off. I've never in my life of working on cars encountered something this stuck before.
09-19-2018, 11:09 AM
#5
I bought one of those ball joint tools too. Actually, I bought two of them. But after trying to use them, I came to the conclusion that no matter what I did I would end up tearing up the boot, so I used the method outline above to push the ball joint out from the top.
09-19-2018, 01:41 PM
#6
I actually considered doing this, I was just afraid the prying could dent the metal end of the axle. That was early on when I was trying to do this without damaging anything, though. At this point I'm cool with damaging the axle so I'll give it a try and report back.
09-19-2018, 04:26 PM
#7
I actually considered doing this, I was just afraid the prying could dent the metal end of the axle. That was early on when I was trying to do this without damaging anything, though. At this point I'm cool with damaging the axle so I'll give it a try and report back.
My next attempt will be to remove the entire lower control arm. I assume by doing that I will be able to remove the axle, and once the LCA is out I may be able to use other methods to work the hub off of the lower ball joint.
Sigh.
EDIT: I'm reading other threads. Is there some trick to removing the half shaft without totally taking the wheel hub off? I saw someone say they weaseled the axle off the car without removing the hub and just letting it sit with the lower ball joint attached. I cant find any way to manipulate it in order to get enough clearance.
Last edited by invadermoose; 09-19-2018 at 05:16 PM.
09-22-2018, 07:21 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Pry bar did not do the job.
My next attempt will be to remove the entire lower control arm. I assume by doing that I will be able to remove the axle, and once the LCA is out I may be able to use other methods to work the hub off of the lower ball joint.
Sigh.
EDIT: I'm reading other threads. Is there some trick to removing the half shaft without totally taking the wheel hub off? I saw someone say they weaseled the axle off the car without removing the hub and just letting it sit with the lower ball joint attached. I cant find any way to manipulate it in order to get enough clearance.
My next attempt will be to remove the entire lower control arm. I assume by doing that I will be able to remove the axle, and once the LCA is out I may be able to use other methods to work the hub off of the lower ball joint.
Sigh.
EDIT: I'm reading other threads. Is there some trick to removing the half shaft without totally taking the wheel hub off? I saw someone say they weaseled the axle off the car without removing the hub and just letting it sit with the lower ball joint attached. I cant find any way to manipulate it in order to get enough clearance.
You need a ball joint press like the Kent-Moore J-42188. Apply healthy pressure, but not so much that you trash the threads on the press. Then take an electric heat gun and warm up the upright all around the ball joint. Keep the press tight. It might take half an hour (that big aluminum upright likes to suck up heat) but eventually the thing will go pop.
09-22-2018, 07:26 PM
#9
The taper in the upright is probably galled. In which case it's going to be really stuck.
You need a ball joint press like the Kent-Moore J-42188. Apply healthy pressure, but not so much that you trash the threads on the press. Then take an electric heat gun and warm up the upright all around the ball joint. Keep the press tight. It might take half an hour (that big aluminum upright likes to suck up heat) but eventually the thing will go pop.
You need a ball joint press like the Kent-Moore J-42188. Apply healthy pressure, but not so much that you trash the threads on the press. Then take an electric heat gun and warm up the upright all around the ball joint. Keep the press tight. It might take half an hour (that big aluminum upright likes to suck up heat) but eventually the thing will go pop.
And yes, my car is still on jack stands with the wheel hub stuck onto the LCA even though I made this thread about a week ago. Part of my morning routine now is to beat the LCA to death with a hammer while my coffee is brewing. Some day it will give!
I cant wait to put the car back together and find out I bent the LCA or something.
Last edited by invadermoose; 09-22-2018 at 07:28 PM.
09-22-2018, 07:38 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Hey I appreciate the product recommendation. I was under the impression that most ball joint separators wont work on the C6 just due to the way everything is placed and how there isnt much room with the CV in the way. That design looks promising. Just ordered one off of ebay.
And yes, my car is still on jack stands with the wheel hub stuck onto the LCA even though I made this thread about a week ago. Part of my morning routine now is to beat the LCA to death with a hammer while my coffee is brewing. Some day it will give!
I cant wait to put the car back together and find out I bent the LCA or something.
And yes, my car is still on jack stands with the wheel hub stuck onto the LCA even though I made this thread about a week ago. Part of my morning routine now is to beat the LCA to death with a hammer while my coffee is brewing. Some day it will give!
I cant wait to put the car back together and find out I bent the LCA or something.
You may find that the Kent-Moore tool does the trick all by itself. It often does. But on two occasions I've had to apply supplemental heat (both on rear lower control arms) and although it took a little while, it worked perfectly.
09-23-2018, 07:47 AM
#11
Safety Car
Hey I appreciate the product recommendation. I was under the impression that most ball joint separators wont work on the C6 just due to the way everything is placed and how there isnt much room with the CV in the way. That design looks promising. Just ordered one off of ebay.
And yes, my car is still on jack stands with the wheel hub stuck onto the LCA even though I made this thread about a week ago. Part of my morning routine now is to beat the LCA to death with a hammer while my coffee is brewing. Some day it will give!
I cant wait to put the car back together and find out I bent the LCA or something.
And yes, my car is still on jack stands with the wheel hub stuck onto the LCA even though I made this thread about a week ago. Part of my morning routine now is to beat the LCA to death with a hammer while my coffee is brewing. Some day it will give!
I cant wait to put the car back together and find out I bent the LCA or something.
09-23-2018, 08:48 AM
#12
Race Director
is the hub loaded? I've had trouble with these, but I let the weight of the car hang on the hub, then whack the balljoint nut from above, and eventually gravity takes over.
09-24-2018, 10:09 AM
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
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Take the 2 bolts out of the lower control arm and just pull it as a single piece. It's easy to pull it out. Just carefully mark the eccentric washers on the front bolt to put the alignment back or just get it aligned after.
I usually have very good luck if I hit on both sides of the taper at the exact same time. You need 2 big hammers and some co-ordination to do it. Hit right on each side of the ball joint stud going up into the taper. If you're hitting it anywhere else then you're doing it wrong.
It sometimes helps to push up on the hub with your floor jack so the weight of the car is on the hub and trying to pull the joint apart.
The tapered hole is aluminum so it shouldn't be possible to stick that hard. Trying to turn the ball joint stud before it releases is pointless though.
I usually have very good luck if I hit on both sides of the taper at the exact same time. You need 2 big hammers and some co-ordination to do it. Hit right on each side of the ball joint stud going up into the taper. If you're hitting it anywhere else then you're doing it wrong.
It sometimes helps to push up on the hub with your floor jack so the weight of the car is on the hub and trying to pull the joint apart.
The tapered hole is aluminum so it shouldn't be possible to stick that hard. Trying to turn the ball joint stud before it releases is pointless though.