vette200

02/16/2019



Hello Everyone,

I purchased a set of long tube headers and a mid-pipe from Texas Speed and Performance (there brand) and I am very pleased with them. The fit and finish of these headers and mid-pipe are of good quality. I have had no issues with the fitment of theses parts. The only other parts I purchased to do this install were some heat wrap sleeves and aluminum plate. The vehicle in this post is a 2005 LS2 z51 package with a manual transmission and 68,000 miles. This is not intended for instructional use or a how to and I’m not a professional mechanic, so I do not take responsibility for anyone using it as such. Also, I’m in no way affiliated with Texas Speed & Performance.

Tools I Used- 3/8 torque wrench, 22mm oxygen sensor socket, spark plug socket 5/8, 3/8 ratchet and extensions, 3/8 8mm short socket, 3/8 13mm long and short socket, 3/8 15mm long and short socket,3/8 18mm long and short socket, 9mm wrench,18mm wrench, hex 6mm, floor jack low profile, C6 lifting puck, Grinder, WD40, and wheel cradles.

Parts I Used- TSP long tube headers and mid-pipe, TSP reducers, TSP oxygen sensors, AC Delco manifold gaskets, heat wrap sleeves with metal zip ties and aluminum plate.



Removal

First, I jacked my car up and put it on homemade wheel cradles I made from 2x4 I lifted the car as high as the jack would let me. Then I disconnected the Battery with the 9mm wrench and started by removing the existing OEM exhaust at the axle backs. For this I slipped the rubber exhaust hangers off the back located near the muffler. Next, I sprayed the two exhaust clamp bolts located in front of the rear cradle with some WD40 and loosened them (15mm bolt). For the next part I debated weather to remove the sway bar or cut the pipe just behind the muffler. I opted to remove the sway bar this takes a 15mm,13mm,18mm and a hex 6mm. I had a friend help with the removal of the muffler it made it much easier as there are sensors on the driver side I did not want to break.

Then I removed the mid pipe by spraying the studs with WD40 and removing the four 15mm nuts from the catalytic converters and the two 13mm nuts from the exhaust mid-pipe hanger located at the rear of the mid pipe. I disconnected the two rear oxygen sensors from the wiring harness. I then removed the catalytic converter by spraying the studs with WD40 and removing the four 15mm nuts. Next, I removed the front Oxygen sensors from there harness. The dipstick tube was removed with a 15mm bolt and by pulling up and out. I removed the plug wires and spark plugs. Next and finally were the headers I removed the oxygen sensors (22mm oxygen sensor socket) then removed six 13mm exhaust manifold bolts from each side and slide them out the bottom. The job was easier than expected I had no broken bolts or studs, and nothing put up much of a fight.



Install

The first objective in my install was to make a bracket out of aluminum plate to hold back the clutch Hydraulic line from the headers I did this simply by cutting and bending the aluminum plate. I also covered the clutch hydraulic line with a heat sleeve for protection. Then covered the oil cooler lines, transmission cooler lines, Oxygen sensor extension harness, and brake lines with heat sleeves. I removed the tunnel plate with an 8mm socket so I could cut two 2 ½ notches from both sides to fit the oxygen sensor wires threw it. I installed the oxygen sensors (22mm oxygen sensor socket torqued to 30ft-lb) then slid the headers in from the bottom and had a friend hold them while I installed the manifold gaskets and 13mm exhaust manifold bolts (original bolts torqued them to 11ft-lb first pass and 15ft-lb second pass) going from the center out and reconnect the oxygen sensors to the harness.

I installed the tunnel plate by running the Oxygen sensor wires threw and using the 8mm bolts (torqued to 89inch-lb) to put it back in place. And then the mid-pipe by sliding it over the headers with the two exhaust clamps on but loose and hanging it on the exhaust mid-pipe hanger with the two 13mm nuts (torqued to 16ft-lb). The two reducer pipes slide onto the mid-pipe with two exhaust clamps on but loose. I installed the axle back by sliding into place with the exhaust clamps loose and slide the rubber hangers back on. Next, I had a friend look at the tips while I tightened all the exhaust clamps 15mm nuts (torqued to 80ft-lb). The dipstick tube can be put back in place with the 15mm bolt (torqued 18ft-lb). Reinstall the sway bar (13mm, 15mm, 18mm and hex 6mm torque top bolt 49ft-lb bottom nut 70ft-lb and end link 53ft-lb), jack down, spark plugs (gapped to .040 torqued to 11ft-lb) 5/8 socket, plug wires, and reconnect the battery.



Conclusion

This was a lot easier than I imagined and the parts all fit great. Texas Speed and Performance had them to me very quickly and I could not be happier with their products. Texas Speed and Performance also packaged there product very nicely I was worried about shipping damages with a product this big, but they did a nice job protecting them during transit. Sorry for no pictures of the removal of the OEM exhaust system. This install took me around four hours to complete would be a lot less with a lift but was very doable in my garage. They sound great but I’m waiting to have the car tuned, I want to install a few more things first. I hope everyone has enjoyed my review and install.

Boostedsvt

I’ve been considering doing headers too. This brand, price-wise, is very attractive. How is the ground clearance now that you’re done? Does it hang any lower than the factory exhaust?

vette200

There is no problem with ground clearance, they do hang a little lower then factory but that's to be expected with any long tubes I would think.

Spaceme1117

The Texas Speed headers are a good quality product. I had a set on a C5Z. Ended up selling them and getting a set of AR headers. I could never get the Texas Speed headers adjusted and they would rub on the car near the rear intermediate pipe to exhaust connection.

I think if the Texas Speed headers used a ball joint at the header to X-pipe, they would have a lot more ajustibility. For the price, they are a great product regardless.

Pete Schweaty

Great write up, OP. I was considering a set of these since the price seems hard to beat. Does anyone know of a catted x-pipe that will mate up to these since they are slip fit as opposed to flange?

KRPTONT

I just posted almost the same question asking about TSP headers. Did you put a different exhaust on? Do you have a video of sound?

vette200

I have already taken the factory axle back off. Before I go to the dyno, I was hoping to install a fast intake manifold and maybe a cam. I still can’t figure out what axle back I want. The factory system sounded good with the headers and mid-pipe I just wanted it to be a little louder. And sorry no videos I did not think to do that before I removed the axle back but will make a note of it for whatever goes on next. If anyone has suggestions on what would sound good your advice would be much appreciated. I have been slammed between school and work so ill try to keep this updated as much as possible. Some weeks its hard to find time to even work on my car.

schizcat

I swapped the stock headers on my 05 for TSPs about 2 years ago. Great headers. They do hang low and will scrape over some speed bumps. Fitment was a little squirrely in some parts but overall, I think they are great.

vette200

vette200

This is the dyno sheet from headers and mid-pipe only; I gutted the factory mufflers to. Trying to decide what to do next. And this is my first time dealing with Skaats Precision Motorsports. He was very helpful with my questions and has terrific customer service. I give him a 10/10 for everything he has done for me.