C6 auto trans can't shift from park
05-12-2019, 12:51 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
C6 auto trans can't shift from park
car won't let me shift lever. will only go into D or N. starts and runs.
Last edited by fred D; 05-12-2019 at 12:53 AM. Reason: add to
05-12-2019, 01:18 AM
#2
Racer
My 2008 was stuck in park I got it out and drove straight home when I got there I turned to car off and it restarted in neutral.
I just went to see if I could get the top up with the car in neutral, no such luck and now it won’t start in neutral either.
So two of us need some guidance on this!
I did find this. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-to-park.pdf
I just went to see if I could get the top up with the car in neutral, no such luck and now it won’t start in neutral either.
So two of us need some guidance on this!
I did find this. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-to-park.pdf
Last edited by Zorro O; 05-12-2019 at 01:49 AM.
05-12-2019, 04:04 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
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My 09 stuck in park a while back, common problem on C6S up till 2013,had console removed an switch fixed . The cable ends also brake off,GM Crap!!
05-12-2019, 10:14 PM
#5
Advanced
Hi - I had that issue last summer. Check the pdf/link above. Rather than rig the pawel, I simply cut it off. Problem gone. Read the caveat on that....you won't need to push the brake in order to unlock the shifter column, but that motion is burned in my memory and pushing the brake is still automatic for me. If you search, you will find more threads on this, and there are a few videos on youtube on doing the repair.
Good luck!
Jon
Good luck!
Jon
05-15-2019, 05:03 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
i just did this alteration of tieing back the pawl yesterday. It now works perfectly, no hangups.
i was amazed how flimsy the micro switches were. The spring arm was just flopping around loosely.
A $60,000.00 car with a cheap $5.00 part is BS. While I was there, I checked the cable end and it was OK, near the tranny was good too.
Thanks to the forum and the internet for the info to do this.
i was amazed how flimsy the micro switches were. The spring arm was just flopping around loosely.
A $60,000.00 car with a cheap $5.00 part is BS. While I was there, I checked the cable end and it was OK, near the tranny was good too.
Thanks to the forum and the internet for the info to do this.
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jbripps (05-15-2019)
10-30-2019, 06:54 PM
#12
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Shifter Fix Details - Replace with Correct Microswitch
If you truly want to fix the issue of a C6 not coming out of park, replace the micro switch. Cutting off the interlock would allow the vehicle to start in any gear.. You may someday sell your Vette and if someone gets hurt of worse, you might end up liable.
Once the console is removed, it is a 15 minute fix. Console removal will vary on year and model and is covered elsewhere here in the Forums and on You-Tube.
The real problem is the microswitch used, while OE was a good brand (mine was a Burgess) most likely was not spec'd for the heat range inside the center console. Mine read 20-30 ohms cold (should be near or at zero ohms) but hot measured over 250 ohms and the BCM thought it was not in park. Mine never failed to come out of park cold. After driving for 45 minutes or longer, it was a crap shoot.
The switch that was noted in a prior post works now, but I'm doubtful it will go long term. The pivot arm is so soft it can be bent by hand. It had to be bent to make contact with the shifter and will, over time, bend back. Secondly the contacts don't engage until almost to the end of travel. What I suggest and I have installed in my 2009 Vette, is a switch make by Cherry. They have made high quality switches for years. The pivot arm is thick metal, won't have to be bent as it was perfect as it arrived (yours may have to be bent but not by much). Wire it to the "C" terminal and the "NO" terminal. Doesn't matter which color wire goes to which terminal. To ease installation and reduce heat inside the switch, add a short piece of wire to the switch out of the car. If you tin both wire and terminal, put the wire through the hole in the switch, you'll only need to touch the assembly with your solder iron for a few seconds to flow it. Down stream cut and splice into the vehicle harness and use shrink tubing so no exposed joints. The switch is a snap in, snap out part.
I ordered my parts from Allied Electronics (www.alliedelec.com). Roller style Cherry/ZF part DC1C-A1RB, Allied stock number 70207580 @$4.90 or simulated roller (like the OE Part) Cherry/ZF part DC1C-A1SC, Allied stock number 70461940 @ $2.10. Probably don't need the roller style since this is a stationary setup where the shifter moves towards the lever vs applications where something rolls by like in automated machinery.
Good luck and make it a safe repair like it was originally designed.
Once the console is removed, it is a 15 minute fix. Console removal will vary on year and model and is covered elsewhere here in the Forums and on You-Tube.
The real problem is the microswitch used, while OE was a good brand (mine was a Burgess) most likely was not spec'd for the heat range inside the center console. Mine read 20-30 ohms cold (should be near or at zero ohms) but hot measured over 250 ohms and the BCM thought it was not in park. Mine never failed to come out of park cold. After driving for 45 minutes or longer, it was a crap shoot.
The switch that was noted in a prior post works now, but I'm doubtful it will go long term. The pivot arm is so soft it can be bent by hand. It had to be bent to make contact with the shifter and will, over time, bend back. Secondly the contacts don't engage until almost to the end of travel. What I suggest and I have installed in my 2009 Vette, is a switch make by Cherry. They have made high quality switches for years. The pivot arm is thick metal, won't have to be bent as it was perfect as it arrived (yours may have to be bent but not by much). Wire it to the "C" terminal and the "NO" terminal. Doesn't matter which color wire goes to which terminal. To ease installation and reduce heat inside the switch, add a short piece of wire to the switch out of the car. If you tin both wire and terminal, put the wire through the hole in the switch, you'll only need to touch the assembly with your solder iron for a few seconds to flow it. Down stream cut and splice into the vehicle harness and use shrink tubing so no exposed joints. The switch is a snap in, snap out part.
I ordered my parts from Allied Electronics (www.alliedelec.com). Roller style Cherry/ZF part DC1C-A1RB, Allied stock number 70207580 @$4.90 or simulated roller (like the OE Part) Cherry/ZF part DC1C-A1SC, Allied stock number 70461940 @ $2.10. Probably don't need the roller style since this is a stationary setup where the shifter moves towards the lever vs applications where something rolls by like in automated machinery.
Good luck and make it a safe repair like it was originally designed.
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Rayzzz (03-22-2020)
10-31-2019, 09:48 AM
#14
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I thought my lengthy explanation was clear. Cold the vehicle will start and I can shift it out of park with no problems. After it heats up say driving 45 minutes or longer, and you **** it off it will start but you cannot get it out of park easily. You have to push forward and sideways on the gear shift handle to get it to recognize it is in park so it will release. Replacing the micro switch on the shifter assembly with a quality hi temp part is the answer. $5 fix.
Bob
Bob