Clutch won't disengage after rebuild
#1
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Clutch won't disengage after rebuild
I spent the better part of the last six months rebuilding my 05 Z51 after the timing chain broke and made a mess of my valves. I have everything buttoned up, the engine runs fine, but I can't put the car in gear even with the wheels off the ground. The clutch is not disengaging at all.I'm using the stock clutch, it was still pretty new and in good shape. Things I've already done:
- Friction plate orientation is correct
- New pilot bearing
- New slave
- Input shaft clean & lightly greased
- System properly bled with remote bleeder
#2
Drifting
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No real help here, but to me it can only be:
Pressure plate
Slave/TO bearing
Master
I've read that it is possible that if you use the bellhousing bolts to bring the torque in that you can cause the input shaft to miss align with the pilot bearing . I don't know if that's true however.
Pressure plate
Slave/TO bearing
Master
I've read that it is possible that if you use the bellhousing bolts to bring the torque in that you can cause the input shaft to miss align with the pilot bearing . I don't know if that's true however.
#3
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Thread Starter
No real help here, but to me it can only be:
Pressure plate
Slave/TO bearing
Master
I've read that it is possible that if you use the bellhousing bolts to bring the torque in that you can cause the input shaft to miss align with the pilot bearing . I don't know if that's true however.
Pressure plate
Slave/TO bearing
Master
I've read that it is possible that if you use the bellhousing bolts to bring the torque in that you can cause the input shaft to miss align with the pilot bearing . I don't know if that's true however.
#4
Drifting
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(Again guessing and thinking out loud) I just DIY a clutch about 3 months ago. The only problem I can remember was getting the master to bleed and fill with fluid. I'm going to assume you installed a remote bleeder you might try putting a pressure gage on the end to make sure you are pressurizing the system adequately.
Does it grind when the engine is running and try you to put it in gear? Maybe you forgot to hook up the reverse lock out (05 has two!) or the skip shift (?).
If you figure out the problem be sure to post the answer! I'm very interested in this one.
Mine is an 05 with a LS7 clutch, new flywheel, new slave, and remote bleeder, if it helps.
#5
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Looks like you need to pull the torque tube again to have a look at the problem. :-(
(Again guessing and thinking out loud) I just DIY a clutch about 3 months ago. The only problem I can remember was getting the master to bleed and fill with fluid. I'm going to assume you installed a remote bleeder you might try putting a pressure gage on the end to make sure you are pressurizing the system adequately.
Does it grind when the engine is running and try you to put it in gear? Maybe you forgot to hook up the reverse lock out (05 has two!) or the skip shift (?).
If you figure out the problem be sure to post the answer! I'm very interested in this one.
Mine is an 05 with a LS7 clutch, new flywheel, new slave, and remote bleeder, if it helps.
(Again guessing and thinking out loud) I just DIY a clutch about 3 months ago. The only problem I can remember was getting the master to bleed and fill with fluid. I'm going to assume you installed a remote bleeder you might try putting a pressure gage on the end to make sure you are pressurizing the system adequately.
Does it grind when the engine is running and try you to put it in gear? Maybe you forgot to hook up the reverse lock out (05 has two!) or the skip shift (?).
If you figure out the problem be sure to post the answer! I'm very interested in this one.
Mine is an 05 with a LS7 clutch, new flywheel, new slave, and remote bleeder, if it helps.
When the engine is off, I can go through all the gears. When I start the engine in neutral, I’m unable to shift into any of the gears. I don’t really hear any grinding but it just won’t go. I also can’t turn the wheels at all by hand while it’s on a lift and the clutch is depressed. I am able to start the car in gear while it’s on a lift and the wheels will turn and I can shift through the gears.
#6
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Pic of the pressure plate. Is it possible the forks got bent inwards during install?
[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/21533153-2caa-49a9-b648-d4ba2abd374b
Last edited by Shift Point; 07-15-2019 at 09:43 AM.
#7
Drifting
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This one is a head scratcher!!!!
Did you bleed the ENTIRE system, that is the master and slave connected together through the bleeder on the slave ? If not that's probably the problem.
Hard to tell from the pic, but isn't "inwards" a clutch release ?
Other guesses on my part.
Other guesses on my part.
- Pressure plate is bad
- Did you measure for a slave/TO bearing shim?( How to measure here ==> https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...im-kit-3-pack/)
- Pilot bearing frozen (You said you bought a new one, but just thinking of what it could be.)
- You did reconnect the quick disconnects all the way in and put the retainers back in. (Or connected with the retainers in until the "click")
Last edited by Dutch08; 07-15-2019 at 03:24 PM.
#8
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This one is a head scratcher!!!!
Did you bleed the ENTIRE system, that is the master and slave connected together through the bleeder on the slave ? If not that's probably the problem.
Yes - I bled the entire system with a remote bleeder until I saw zero bubbles and the clutch made a full return on its own.
Hard to tell from the pic, but isn't "inwards" a clutch release ?
Yes - not sure if that could be the problem or not. Perhaps it lost its spring constant?
Other guesses on my part.
Did you bleed the ENTIRE system, that is the master and slave connected together through the bleeder on the slave ? If not that's probably the problem.
Yes - I bled the entire system with a remote bleeder until I saw zero bubbles and the clutch made a full return on its own.
Hard to tell from the pic, but isn't "inwards" a clutch release ?
Yes - not sure if that could be the problem or not. Perhaps it lost its spring constant?
Other guesses on my part.
- Pressure plate is bad Seems unlikely since it worked fine when I disassembled it. I just ordered a new LS7 clutch kit & aluminum flywheel to be safe
- Did you measure for a slave/TO bearing shim?( How to measure here ==> https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...im-kit-3-pack/) Yes -- The gap was about .050" iirc, which is actually a little on the lower side and should promote disengagement
- Pilot bearing frozen (You said you bought a new one, but just thinking of what it could be.) I pulled the input shaft and clutch again yesterday (after 3 attempts I'm able to pull a clutch in about 2 hours now with a helper) -- new pilot still spins freely and is uniformly seated
- You did reconnect the quick disconnects all the way in and put the retainers back in. (Or connected with the retainers in until the "click") Yes, inserted the metal clip and then connected until the click. Cannot pull apart
#10
Drifting
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Pressure Plate jammed up - (You ordered a new one )
Shifter Assembly - did you center the shift rod before tightening with the GM pin or the center guide from the manufacturer ?
Please update when you figure it out, I'd really like to know the answer.
#11
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You have a real brain buster here. Final guess and then I give up.
Pressure Plate jammed up - (You ordered a new one )
Shifter Assembly - did you center the shift rod before tightening with the GM pin or the center guide from the manufacturer ?
Please update when you figure it out, I'd really like to know the answer.
Pressure Plate jammed up - (You ordered a new one )
Shifter Assembly - did you center the shift rod before tightening with the GM pin or the center guide from the manufacturer ?
Please update when you figure it out, I'd really like to know the answer.
#13
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Yes -- Good news! About 3am friday night we got everything buttoned up with the new clutch kit and it worked perfectly. I still have no idea what could have gone wrong, everything looks ok visually. I'm going to dissect the pressure plate and see if I can find anything. Thanks for all the suggestions