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Traction System Active issue / can bus

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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 09:16 AM
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Default Traction System Active issue / can bus

Hey Everyone!

Hoping to get some help. About 2 weeks ago, I was driving home my 2007 C6 base. Randomly my light dimmed, Service Tracking message came up, then the traction system active went on, car seemed to go into limp mode, key fob not found issue came on, a few guages froze. 2 of my tires pression sensons xxx'd outt. It seemed random and just all at once. No check engine lights, just was sluggish.

Took it to shop, there were 32 codes in the memory, most of them communication errors, can bus errors, etc. Nothing pointing out specifically the issue, appear to be a major failure of modcule talking to computer basically, just a bunch of communication errors. Shop tested car, replaced the battery ( as i needed to anyways). Shop cleared codes, tested it, seemed fine, tire pressor sensors picked up tires, looked good, this was a few days ago

Yesterday I took it out for a long ride since code clear/battery replace and all seemed good, then randomly the traction system active light came on for about 10 seconds, killed throttle, then went off, then back on for 3-4 more seconds then nothing after that. I was on highway going 70, no bumps, was just coasting nothing, just randomly came on. I am taking back to shop to see if any codes where thrown but there are zero warning lights no dash. Seemed ok after, maybe a little sluggish but could be in my head. Call shop, taking it back in today to see if any codes were thrown but again nothing on dash/startup shows there is a problem.

A few factors I tried to think of what has changed since this problem arised.

*4 new tires on car prior to this happening but recommend size fronts are 245/40r/18 , rear 285/30/19
* Both time it happened the was extreme HOT outside and were longer rides
*both times I did wash the car earlier in day (not sure if a factor at all)

Thank you for any help/suggestions



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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 04:56 PM
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GM high speed lan bus is through the Tan wires on the main connectors, while the class 2 bus is through the splice blocks.
206 is just left of the Bose amp location in the passenger foot well, while 205 is just to the left/under the ICP instead.





If you can list the DTC numbers, will tell you which lan has the problem, and at what connector/module as well.

Also, could be that the lan's and modules are fine, but one of the main modules ground wire to chasssic is the problem instead (loose or corroded).
Note, even with the car not acting up, should still be the DTC codes in history from what it did glitch (that did not get erased yet). And please pull the codes with a Tech 2, isntead of some generic scanner that I will have to chase what it off codes is trying to tell me, when it not posting actual GM specific codes isntead.

To add, if your in the Denver areas, can get together to make short work of solving the problem since I do have Tech II's.

Last edited by Dano523; Jun 9, 2021 at 05:03 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2021 | 01:39 PM
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I have the same problem. Mine has been going on for years. Until recently when I removed the battery from power, (30sec) it reset and returned to normal. Now it does not always reset. Dealer says main computer is the problem. GM does not make them any more. I'm searching for one. I have a 2005 6 speed manual. Tom 703 864-4015
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Old Jun 18, 2021 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Atocha4
I have the same problem. Mine has been going on for years. Until recently when I removed the battery from power, (30sec) it reset and returned to normal. Now it does not always reset. Dealer says main computer is the problem. GM does not make them any more. I'm searching for one. I have a 2005 6 speed manual. Tom 703 864-4015
Not buying that one of the modules is the problem, but one of the module connector wire/pins is corroded, corrode wire problem on the serial 2 bus splice blocks, or power/ground problem at the modules isntead. Hence if module was bad, the power resetting the entire system/all the modules at the same time, it would not fix the problem, but if a connector, splice block, ground problems that is glitching the modules, then power reset would reset the module when it glitches from the problem isntead.

Point blank, dealer will replace the modules first since it big money to start with, then will go after wiring/connector problems next when the now modules still have the same problem. The glitch, they don't refund you the money for the replace modules that where not bad, nor refund you the money to have to flash them in, but just tack on more money after the fact by troubling shooting the corrosion/wiring problem after the fact isntead (will come up with the crack wire thing that was the reason for the addition charges isntead).

As for main computers, EBCM, BCM, ECM come to mind, but they are just a few of the handfuls of modules in the car that are computers as well. Take the IPC and HVAC controllers, that are computers of a sort as well. So if a tech is just telling you "main computer", and not the specific module they thing is bad and why, then run away. Hence the battery disconnect power reset to the system that is solving the problem temporary, tells you its not the module the problem, but the wiring and connectors to the module causing the module to glitch instead.
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Old Jun 19, 2021 | 08:16 AM
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Default Faulty Message, "Service Traction Control"

Thanks Dano,
I will let you know if this works out.

Tom Cirrito
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Old Jun 20, 2021 | 07:59 PM
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When you take the battery out next time, pull the support tray out too. Underneath there is a body grounding point for a bunch of components, one I have been told was the traction control and active handling. Double check that the connection is secure. Mine had wiggled away from the frame almost completely, and caused an intermittent fault to service the acs. Wire brushed the area and connections, secured the ground, no more problem. Every situation is different I understand, but that helped my issue...at least so far
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Old Jun 24, 2021 | 12:18 PM
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Default traction control

KT2007C6: Is your battery located underhood, or in the back, like a GS. Thanks, Jim

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Old Jun 24, 2021 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JIMWALLACE
KT2007C6: Is your battery located underhood, or in the back, like a GS. Thanks, Jim
Mine is a base, so under the hood..I forgot about the possibility of a trunk mount. Makes me wonder if the ground point on those components moves, or if they would still be where the base model has em.
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Old Aug 19, 2021 | 10:39 AM
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Default "Service traction Control system" Problem.

I've had Dealer help! They claimed it was the front whel hub sensor. Replaced it and after 20 mi same "Traction Control Problem! Then they said it was corrosion in the plug that crept inyo andon the board of the ECU. Since Chevy no longer supplies ECU's or ECM's I boutht a Re-habbed one on e-bay. Dealer installed it and said it was fixed. Drove 62 miles and BOOM, same traction control problem. Plus got my old ECU back and cannot find evidence of corrosion. Car now in my garage. Yesterday I tool out battery tray and found ground beneath. Looks and feels fine.
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Old Aug 24, 2021 | 07:57 PM
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I have the same problem. Mine no longer resets when turned off or removed from battery. My dealer also claimed (incorrectly) that it was the ECM. So I went to E-Bay and bought a "Rebuilt" ECM, programmed to my VIN#. We installed it and Poof the same problem occurred 59 miles away.

I've replaced wheel sensors in front. New ECM, and tested ground under battery. NO LUCK!

I suspect this is in a LAN or a faulty ground.

BTW Mine is NOT related to heat or time. I believe it tobe random.

Atocha4
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Old Aug 24, 2021 | 10:33 PM
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Wheel speed sensors wire to the EBCM, and the rear sensor wires go through the C184 connector as well.

So if sensors and EBCM are fine, and you are no running SS brake lines that can cause static electricity problems to the speed sensor, would start checking the wires for cracks/spits in them, and/or problems at the end connectors pins.
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Old Aug 25, 2021 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JIMWALLACE
KT2007C6: Is your battery located underhood, or in the back, like a GS. Thanks, Jim
Under the hood.
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Old Oct 14, 2025 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
GM high speed lan bus is through the Tan wires on the main connectors, while the class 2 bus is through the splice blocks.
206 is just left of the Bose amp location in the passenger foot well, while 205 is just to the left/under the ICP instead.





If you can list the DTC numbers, will tell you which lan has the problem, and at what connector/module as well.

Also, could be that the lan's and modules are fine, but one of the main modules ground wire to chasssic is the problem instead (loose or corroded).
Note, even with the car not acting up, should still be the DTC codes in history from what it did glitch (that did not get erased yet). And please pull the codes with a Tech 2, isntead of some generic scanner that I will have to chase what it off codes is trying to tell me, when it not posting actual GM specific codes isntead.

To add, if your in the Denver areas, can get together to make short work of solving the problem since I do have Tech II's.
I have the same problem and I'm in the denver area would you mind helping a brother out. I tried everything and will never take it to the dealer.
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Old Oct 14, 2025 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Malibrahim
I have the same problem and I'm in the denver area would you mind helping a brother out. I tried everything and will never take it to the dealer.

What exactly are YOUR issues ??..you have at least a DMM ??…some CAN bus issues need a labscope to diagnose…I know of someone in Denver if you need someone.
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Old Oct 31, 2025 | 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
What exactly are YOUR issues ??..you have at least a DMM ??…some CAN bus issues need a labscope to diagnose…I know of someone in Denver if you need someone.
Yeah please send me your guy’s Info that’s in denver so i can have him check it out and give an honest fix that’s gonna save me some $$$. Thanks man
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Old Oct 31, 2025 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Malibrahim
Yeah please send me your guy’s Info that’s in denver so i can have him check it out and give an honest fix that’s gonna save me some $$$. Thanks man

He has a YouTube channel…email him here and let me know if he contacts you…tell him it’s me (C5 Diag) that sent you.




erwin@schrodingersboxqm.com.

Last edited by C5 Diag; Oct 31, 2025 at 10:48 AM.
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