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My water pump sprung a leak a few weeks ago and I replaced it with a new Melling pump and new AC Delco stat stat. Previously the car always ran rock solid at 194, going to slightly over 200 in traffic.
Now it runs at 199+ up to as high as 219. Yes, I burped it. Even at a 70 mph cruise the temps will go up and down from 203 to 216, but if I drop to 5th gear, the temps settles right down and 203. That makes me think I have a bad impeller.
So, I bought a new pump (AC Delco this time) and also bought a Lingenfelter 180 stat. I think I'm also going to replace the radiator this time around just for more cooling capacity since I live in the high desert (Reno/Sparks).
So, the big question is - any reason NOT to run a 180 stat in our cars? I do have a tuner so I can adjust the fan to come on at a lower temp to match the lower temp stat.
Based on your initial post, it appears you already understand the ins and outs. A 180° thermostat will do little except possibly lower your steady state running down the road temperatures a small amount. As you indicated you can adjust the fan to come on a little sooner, and to run at a higher percentage across the board, but then you start getting into the potential "melt the connector" issue. I personally think if you haven't looked yet, you should clean any debris from the radiator/a/c condenser and consider adding a couple bottles of Water Wetter to the radiator. In my experience WW helps a small amount.
Based on your initial post, it appears you already understand the ins and outs. A 180° thermostat will do little except possibly lower your steady state running down the road temperatures a small amount. As you indicated you can adjust the fan to come on a little sooner, and to run at a higher percentage across the board, but then you start getting into the potential "melt the connector" issue. I personally think if you haven't looked yet, you should clean any debris from the radiator/a/c condenser and consider adding a couple bottles of Water Wetter to the radiator. In my experience WW helps a small amount.
I already have WW in it, it didn't make a difference. I do usually run WW and it helps, but not in this instance.
Are you running an undersized harmonic balancer by any chance? That would slow your water pump down.
Nope, still stock, but I will do an underdrive pulley/balancer when it comes time to replace it. I ran one on my previous C5 with no issues, so I'm fine with it.
If you run the 180* stat along with a Dewitts radiator and more aggressive coolant fan ramp rates, it will run cooler. I had that radiator in a superchrged Grand Sport and it ran cooler even with a supercharger heat exchanger in front of the radiator. Dewitts is good stuff. You could actually idle it with the a/c blowing cold and it wouldn't get much over 200....in high 90's outside air temps. With a 160* stat, it actually ran too cool in cooler temps. 180* is just right with the Dewitts.
I already have WW in it, it didn't make a difference. I do usually run WW and it helps, but not in this instance.
Depending on your location, you may be able to dilute your coolant mix. Say using distilled water/antifreeze in a 55/45 ratio, or even 60/40 ratio, with the larger # representing water, and the smaller # representing antifreeze. Depends how cold it gets where you live. 50/50 mix is good to -34° F. Reason I mention this is WW doesn't work nearly as well in 50/50 mix. I don't know what ratio I've mixed it at, but my mixture is good to -20° F., run it in a DeWitts radiator. I also run WW, and have a 25% UD ASP balancer. Running without the A/C on, I've got a great setup. With A/C on in Florida Summer temps is where the slower balancer shows it's, well, a slower water pump drive!! I never overheat. Highest I ever see is 215° stop and go, and Florida red lights are long enough that I've seen guys shaving at them. I am not joking!! When I eventually change this balancer, I'll go with a 10% UD, but that's as low as l'll go, and as low as I'd recommend anyone else go in an extreme environment...........