Matt Gruber

that way i won't have to hook up wires everytime i park it.
any ideas? :confused:

jimman

Why :confused: :confused:

Matt Gruber

the idea is i pull into my garage and the float charger automatically charges the battery.
i plan to hang the induction coil as a guide to help perfectly park. The coil just touches the car(fender?) and on the other side is an induction coil hidden. The juice flows without having to connect/disc. any wires :cool:
The c5 battery can drain in 2 weeks(i expect the same from the c6), with 3 vettes i don't want to find a dead battery in the c6, and i don't want to have to hook it up numerous times.

Scissors

Have fun paying the massive electric bill for that.

Timmy's C5

A cheap battery tender with it quick connect plugs should do the job very well for you. Use one on all my stored cars and motorcycle.

Matt Gruber

manual garage doors "do the job" but many use electric openers, as a luxury and it is quicker.
What is the point of driving a fast car if all the time i save is lost connecting the charger?

mapman

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Let's hope you drive faster than that! I would be more concerned with potential impacts to the cars electronic systems (computers) with those strong electric fields. :)

Matt Gruber

the field would be the same as the transformer in the charger.
but, you are right, as my newest car is 32 years old, i have no idea about that.

mapman

Perhaps posting the question in C3 or C1/C2 is more likely to elicit a useful response. You might think about the battery itself, take a look at the link below.

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/

Matt Gruber

i was out of state for 17 months and my 67 fired right up.
try that with a modern car. :lol:
If nobody here has a clue i may try the C5 section, maybe even c4.
most c1-c3 don't drain the battery off, but there are some engineers there so you never know......

foliva

Actually, it's the magnetic field that couples the energy in an induction setup.

While an interesting idea, the main problem with the application as described is the fact that there is a fair distance between the charging paddle & the load. In this case, the load is the battery to be charged. This distance would require some fairly powerful dynamic magnetic fields to couple enough charging current into the battery.

As stated, those fields could induce all sorts of spurious currents into the rest of the system. This might or might not be a show stopper. Only testing would tell for sure -- provided you can build a working prototype.

I'd also be concerned with those electromagnetic fields creating havoc with all your household stuff (computers, tv's etc).

One idea to solve the distance problem would be to possibly build a large charging coil & physically attach it to the battery cable. This way, you would resolve the distance problem. What you're building is basically a large transformer. The reason transformers use iron cores is because iron more efficiently couples the magnetic fields onto the secondary windings. Air core transformers do exist however. The down side to this approach is the fact that you now have to open your hood & attach the coil.

If you're going to do this (open the hood to connect), why not simply make a physical connection with a conventional trickle charger? It's probably cheaper.

Matt Gruber

i got the idea from my $27 electric toothbrush. it charges without wires touching :cool:

Painrace

Why not mount a small charger around the battery and hook it up to the battery then run the cord to the wheel area or front so all you have to do is plug it in. If the plug is hidden, no one will know or see and you can charge without hpening the hood or hooking the battrey up?

LittleBoyBlu99

:lol: :lol: :thumbs:

Matt Gruber

my toothbrush dims the whole town when it charges :jester
.
sure i can plug it in, but i now see this device would be quite a conversation piece :eek:
.
to some it will work like "magic" :lol:

JoesC5

The longest time my C5 has set without being started was 5 & 1/2 weeks. It fired off within 1 second after turning the key, slower then normal though. If you have a C5 that won't start after just 2 weeks, you need to fix the problem, same holds true with your new C6(when you get it). Normally, if I know my C5 isn't going to be started within the next 4 weeks, spending the two to three minutes to connect the float charger isn't going to change my life style. That's about how long it takes me to fix a cup of coffee, and I need to cut back on my coffee consumption.

foliva

Yup. Mine is exactly the same. It's a great idea for the obvious reason of isolating the power source from the user in a wet environment.

Basically, the charging scheme is an (air?) core transformer as described in my previous post. In this application, there is a close physical distance between the load (toothbrush) and the source.

One further idea: You can possibly design a charging circuit as you originally describe by placing a large secondary winding in series with the battery, and
bury the coil somewhere close to, or in the body. This way, the charging paddle will be physically close to the secondary coil.

I believe that they did this on the EV1 electric vehicle that GM built a few years back. The driver would simply pull the car into the garage & slide a charging paddle into a slot in the front of the hood. No electircal connections
were made.

On a related topic. I thought I read somewhere that someone was experimenting with magnetic pulse guns for law enforcement. The officer could bring a fleeing car to a halt by aiming the gun at the car & pulling
the trigger to generate a mag pulse that would disable/destroy the engine
computer.

This would have to be an extremely high mag field because of the distance issue, but since it's a short pulse, it's more feasable.

Matt Gruber

well i thought most of that was obvious, but i guess not.
i would hook it in parallel with the battery thru a full wave bridge. the gap should not exceed 1/2 inch. hopefully 1/4 inch.
My question is HOW MANY FEET OF WHAT GAUGE MAGNET WIRE WILL TRANSFER 200 MA?

foliva

Okay. Here's what you need to consider:

(1) You will be building some type of transfoermer. As such, the voltage
induced across the secondary windings is a function of the winding
ratio between the primary & secondary. More secondary windings than
primary mean the voltage will increase, and vice versa.

(2) The current being sourced will also be a function of the winding ratio,
however more secondary windings mean LESS current on the secondary
side. With this said, you will probably want a step DOWN transformer
to reduce the voltage from 120 VAC to about 13VAC

(3) The induced voltage in the secondary windings is also a function of the
permeability of the material between the windings. Iron is a good
material for the coupling of the mag field to the secondary. Air is not
so good.

(4) You will need to build a coil & mount it somewhere under the hood. Also,
you will need to build a (primary) coil & hang it where it can come in
contact (of VERY close) to the secondary mounted under the hood.

(5) You will have to do some testing to see which winding ratio will induce
a 200 ma/13VAC current/voltage (your spec) at a reasonable
distance. I still feel that you will not be able to couple enough energy
without generating a huge mag field in the primary (ie, lots of power
required). But, this is a gut feel. Haven't done any transformer or
electromagnetic work for a number of years.

(6) The gauge of the wire is a function of the amount of current you need to
pump down the wire. The more current, the thicker the wire. There are
charts that indicate the current vs gauge. You can find this info on the
net.

GOOD LUCK -- let us know if you get it working!

Matt Gruber

the ratio is 1:1
i already have a tender which steps down the VAC to i guess 13.5 VAC.
Just about any topic can be looked up on a search engine, and, if by the time my c6 comes in, there is still no helpful reply here, i will look it up. :cheers: