Jorday

Well, I had been waiting to install the headers until I had access to a lift. I woke up at 10 am today with the day off, and I said to my self "what am I a sissy and I can't install a set of headers with jackstands and ramps anymore?" I thought of taking pics, but I figured why bother since it's already been done a bunch of times.

It took me 4.5 hours with a lunch break. It was a very smooth install. Much easier than all of the F bodies I had. Later, I noticed right exhaust tips were sticking out about 1/8 inch farther than the left tips. This, of course, had to be fixed post haste.

I took the car for three test rides of at least 20 miles, and never set a check engine light despite not having cats. I'm not complaining, but how is this? I've got some cats to put in it, but I wanted to at least to drive it with the off road version a couple of times. Why didn't I get a check engine light, though? Not enough driving to set the code yet? HP tuners will be here tomorrow to correct any header related check engine lights, but I was very surprised the light didn't come on.

There's definitely plenty of header noise in the lower RPM range, which is to be expected. A good bit of header "tick" between 1-2k. No leaks, though. I checked the car over several times before I took it down off the ramps to make sure it wasn't leaking exhaust from anywhere.

I was shocked at how quiet the car still was despite not having cats on it. The stock mufflers do a great job of keeping the noise level down. It gets real loud in hurry above 3500 when the flappers open, though. It would drive me absolutely insane to drive this thing with the fuse out now.

I also noticed that the "marbles in a can" phenomenon seems to be greatly reduced upon light takeoff. I realize it doesn't really make sense that headers would affect this. I guess I'll attribute it to the headers are making enough noise so I can't hear my marbles anymore.

I wanted to reuse the stock manifold bolts rather than the supplied bolts, but I noticed that the bolts supplied with the headers were shorter than the stock bolts. After quickly flashing back to my LS1 camaro/firebird days, I recalled a set of headers with 1/4" thick flanges needing the stock manifold bolts to be shortened because the threads weren't deep enough to work with the thin flange. (those particular headers didn't have any bolts that came with them) So, out came the calipers. The stock flange was .455" while the kooks flange was .385" Uncompressed manifold gasket was .065". I threaded a stock bolt into a bare head to check, and it turned out that there was enough room to use the stock bolts.


This link offered some helpful tips:
http://www.robs427.com/htmpages/Kook...oksinstall.htm

Some additional info...

I agree that the oil lines absolutely have to be removed, but the instructions that came with my headers said to remove them for the install. Also, with regard to the issue of the header hitting after the croswsover pipe is attached. I had the same thing happen. In my case the fix was to loosen the header ball flange and re torque it in smaller increments side to side.

The bolt that's hard to reach on each manifold can be accessed through the hole in the lower suspension arm with a socket extension if you remove all of the manifold bolts and hold the manifold/cat pipe combo with one hand and loosen with the other.

It's hard to notice any SOTP difference, but all will be revealed at the track this weekend if the weather is nice.

N2DEEP

Great write up Jorday When do you want to come over and install mine......

Jorday

Thanks man.

Houston, eh? I'm gonna hop in my car now. Get out the jackstands, I'll be there in 2 days.

BoilerRxC6

Nice work on the install! I had a lift and a helper yesterday when we installed my LG's and it took us a good 6 hours. We got all finished and were putting the spark plugs back in and getting ready to fire it up when we realized that we put the gaskets on wrong on BOTH sides What are the odds of that! Apparently they fit two ways but only one works because of a little tab that hangs down and won't allow socket to fit over the plug on 1 cylinder on each side. So that little mistake took about an hour to correct since we had to loosen up some things to get the headers back on.

I drove for about 50 minutes straight after that with no issues. I put the high flow cats on. I went to the carwash this morning and on the way home the check engine light came on. On my '05 I didn't use cats and the light never came on. The high flow cats don't generate enough heat and when the O2's run a check it senses that something is wrong and sets the code.......or at least that is what I've heard. Don't know how the test pipes would generate enough heat either, but I'm not an expert.

How did the kooks fit? Heat issues? The drivers side is nice and clean, with tons of room. Except for the rubber piece on the plug wire of #7. That thing is damn near touching the header. It didn't show any signs of melting, but I'm concerned. The passenger side is a mess. We did the best we could moving things around to get them away from the headers but I noticed signs of melting on a plastic cover that is a solid 4 inches away from the header. Any chance this could have been from the stock shorties?

Futfixr

I've been thinking about installing mine............using ramps and jack stands of course.. Your write up gave me the kick in the butt I need to do it.


What about the clearance issues on the #7 plug? Did it melt or not. I had a truck that melted a plug wire every time I drove it. These are the headder problems I hate.

Jorday

Wow man, bummer about those gaskets going on backwards like that. I've done stuff like that in the past that ended up being costly as far as time goes. I knew the gaskets would go on backwards, but I was not aware of the front spark plug socket not fitting thing.

Perhaps my car just hasn't run the test yet, and that's why there hasn't been a code set. I'll be messing around with HP tuners tomorrow, so maybe I can find out what's going on.

I spent weeks trying to decide between kooks and LG headers. I couldn't make up my mind to save my life. Finally, some buddys were ordering kooks, and they said if we ordered our headers together they would give us a discount. It was a pretty good chunk of change off the normal price, so I went with the kooks. Since I'm only interested in drag racing, maybe the 1 7/8 will offer me one or two ponies up top and help me at the track. Still, I'm probably going to second guess myself on not ordering the LGs for the entire time I own the vehicle. Oh well, at least the car has headers on it now. I still plan on getting my cam from them, though.

I was pretty impressed with the fit and finish of the kooks headers. The driver side was so easy to install. I literally just grabbed it and stuck it up on the motor. Passenger side I had to remove 1 spark plug and give it a little push to get the flange to go past all the wiring near the firewall, but that was it. The new bracket for the cooler lines worked just like it was supposed to. The lines are away from the header but not rubbing on the engine/bellhousing/trans. However, I'll be keeping an eye on everything underneath the car to make sure all remains well.

What plastic cover is melting? Have you talked with LG motorsports? I have ordered stuff from them in the past, and they are always very helpful. They might be able to help you determine if the melting is being caused by the headers, and if so I'm sure they would be able to work with you until you can get the issue resolved.

805Z06

Congrats on your install. Speaking of exhaust leaking... my car leaks exhaust throught the headers plenty...any effects other than a dirty garage

Jorday

You'll be fine doing the job, man. Just get the rear of the car up a little ways and the front up a couple of feet to give yourself lots of room.

I just went out to the garage and had a look at the #7 plug wire/boot. No sign of melting or any problems. The closest part is probably a little over 1/4" away from the primary tube. I took the car out and ran it through the gears several times, idled slowly through the neighborhood and let the car sit and idle with the hood shut for about 15-20 minutes with the hood shut after it was up to full operating temperature. Everything looks OK at this point.

The #7 on my Z28 was even closer than this one is and didn't have problems, but those headers were coated which probably helped a lot.

Jorday

Thanks man. I'm not sure what you're saying there with the exhaust leak and dirty garage, though.

BoilerRxC6

Sorry, I'm not the most knowledgeable guy at naming all the lines and parts under the hood. It's a plastic tube that has foil around most of it and two lines running through it (one rubber?, one metal). The end of the plastic, not covered in foil, shows signs of melting. Not sure if it was caused by the headers, since it is a good 3-4 inches away.

I'm gonna go take a look at it and see if I can't describe it better.

Also, the #7 cylinder is the driver side all the way towards the front fender right. That thing is damn near touching the header on my LG's. But it is showing now sign of melting??? I bought some heat boots at a local shop, but they don't look like they are going to fit.

mousecatcher

I always thought that noise was due to the cat heat shield and low speed loaded engine vibration.

-frank

Jorday

It sounds like you may be describing either the large electrical cables that go down to the starter from the electrical box or part of the air conditioning. You might post a pic and we could tell you for sure.

Your are correct about the location of the #7 cylinder. My Z28 was close like that with my QTP headers and my T/A was real close with my MAC headers, as well. Never had any problems, though. The stock wires seem to really be able to put up with some heat.

BoilerRxC6

Alright, I looked at the wiring and the point in question is a plastic sheath of wires coming down from the fuse box which is routed into another plastic sheat with a ground wire coming directly off the frame. We tucked it back and zip tied it away from the header as it routes under the car, and as I look now, it's a solid two inches away. Surely the header didn't cause that. I mean that plug wire is only an 1/8 to 1/4 inch away and shows no signs of melting. I'm guessing that it was rubbing on the stock system and had some melting. I will definitely keep an eye on it. I'll try to get some pictures as well.

Jorday

If that's the case than me not hearing the noise anymore would make perfect sense. I swear it barely does it now.

Jorday

Well, at least you've got it out of harm's way for now it sounds like. Maybe it got out of place somehow and the stock stuff melted it. From the sounds of it its too far away to be caused by the headers, but yah I agree keep an eye on it just in case.

J HEBERT

The passenger side is a mess.....brings back almost 2 year-old memories. Btw, is the collector on the pass. side hitting the heat shield on the pass. side of the tunnel? I'll drive a pinto b4 I give up my Kooks.

BoilerRxC6

No, it's not hitting, but it is damn close also (maybe an inch or so clearance). It always wants to pull towards that side too. It's funny, the instructions from LG kept talking about these brackets on the headers before the collectors that would bolt right up to the holes on the bell housing to keep the headers central and out of the sides. But there sure as hell weren't any brackets on the headers or to wrap around the headers and bolt into the bell housing??? Everything about the passenger side has me a tad bit concerned. We checked and checked again and everything does clear, but in some cases it's still too close for my liking. Time will tell.

Jorday

Did you have LG headers and switch to Kooks due to fitting issues?

J HEBERT

How about the oil lines near the pass. collector? Did they tell u to flip the bracket and how do u feel about this? Mine had me very concerned. Had them on the car for 5 weeks, in my opinion they are C5 headers sold for C6, close but not exact. A very nice header but ill-fitting on the C6Z.

J HEBERT

Fitting issues and I did not like the way the 2 1/2" collectors were glowing on the dyno over 600rwhp at 12.8 to1 AFR.....the collectors look like >< going from 3 to 2-1/2 to 3" again. This is to minimize torque loss w/ smaller cube (READ=346ci) but for highly modded 427, the 1-7/8 to 2 inch w/ true 3" collectors are me.