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[Z06] How Do You Secure The Car to A Trailer

Old 04-15-2008, 07:52 PM
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fperra
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Default How Do You Secure The Car to A Trailer

I just bought a tilting 18'X7' flat bed trailer that I'll be picking up in a couple of weeks. The trailer has front and back D rings on the side of the bed and I'm having D rings added to the bed. My question is, where do you attcah the straps to the car? I've only used U-haul trailers for other cars in the past, and they have straps that go over the front wheels.
Old 04-15-2008, 08:14 PM
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You can use wheel straps, if the tie-down rings on your trailer are located to allow their use. You can also buy T-hooks that are designed to attach to the slots where the lifting pucks attach. The slots are engineered for that purpose, and to support the car during assembly.

http://www.truckntow.com/c-147164-.aspx

I have no experience ordering from these folks, but their page illustrates the available attachments.
Old 04-15-2008, 08:23 PM
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These are the correct type of Tie-Downs w/ T-hooks - you will need 4:


You will want to criss-cross the straps front and back, e.g., left front T-hook to right front D-ring, and right front T-hook to left front D-ring, and repeat for the rear.
Old 04-15-2008, 08:30 PM
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This company has some great solutions:

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/category/WheelNets

I like the tire nets that go over the tires. They show several pictures with Vets being tied down.
Old 04-15-2008, 08:59 PM
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Go with 4 T-hook sand 4 quality 5000lb rachet straps. Criss-cross front and rear and always tow in neutral with the parking brake on.

Old 04-15-2008, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Go with 4 T-hook sand 4 quality 5000lb rachet straps. Criss-cross front and rear and always tow in neutral with the parking brake on.

Thanks all for the information. I'm curious as to why always tow with the car in neutral?
Old 04-15-2008, 09:47 PM
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^ Your manual transmission is splash lubricated. Meaning the fuid is sloshed around from the rotation of the gears and this coats the gear faces. When your car is stationary the fluid settles at the bottom of the gearbox. If the car is in gear then the gear faces are touching but without any motion to lubricate them. As you tow the car can move back and forth slightly causing excess wear on the gear faces. This is what I've been told by those who know more than I do
Old 04-16-2008, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
^ Your manual transmission is splash lubricated. Meaning the fuid is sloshed around from the rotation of the gears and this coats the gear faces. When your car is stationary the fluid settles at the bottom of the gearbox. If the car is in gear then the gear faces are touching but without any motion to lubricate them. As you tow the car can move back and forth slightly causing excess wear on the gear faces. This is what I've been told by those who know more than I do
Actually it's the stress imposed on the ring & pinion
Old 04-16-2008, 01:42 AM
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^ You sure? Not seeing how the trans in gear or in neutral would affect the ring/pinion setup. Enlighten me.
Old 04-16-2008, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobra4B
^ You sure? Not seeing how the trans in gear or in neutral would affect the ring/pinion setup. Enlighten me.
Our gear sets are about 3:5 to 1. It's easy for the pinion to turn the ring gear but think how hard it is for the ring to turn the pinion. Technically we should do the same to our tow rigs (this is assuming your loading the trailer by driving the car on to it) while loading. I don't cause the load is not all that great. But I have had several 1 ton trucks come into my shop with broken pinion gears because they were in park or in gear while they loaded their big *** tractors/backhoes onto their trailers. It puts a hell of a lot of stress on the pinion gear.


On edit: In neutral (i.e. no load) no problem. In gear or park big problem.
Old 04-16-2008, 01:57 AM
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That explains it for me.
Old 04-16-2008, 02:31 AM
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Have you actually tried loading your car on this trailer yet???..When I was ready to buy a car trailer five years ago I told the dealer I would have to make certain Id be able to load my C5s on it first....First I tried a "conventional" flat car hauler....NO WAY could I get my C5s on it without MAJOR scraping of the nose and rocker panels.....So I opted for an 18 ft "dovetail" trailer.....The "dove-tail" allowed the cars to clear........My Z-06's nose sits even lower than my C5's do.......The only way I can begin to load it is by backing it on the trailer, but then, the nose scrapes the ground as Im backing up the ramps....It's a no win situation with my existing ramps......I could have some longer ramps built which would allow a more gradual climb onto the trailer, allowing the nose to clear....but then they wouldnt fit in the ramp stowage area of the trailer....AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!
I realize your trailer is a tilting unit..just make sure your car can be loaded on it before you spend all that $$$$!!
Dan Samento
Canon City, Co
www.dansamento.com

Last edited by The NNIAL8R; 04-16-2008 at 02:34 AM.
Old 04-16-2008, 08:22 AM
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T-Hooks and ratchet straps. Put hooks into frame points and you're good to go.

You said you were getting a tilt trailer. I just picked mine up a week ago and it's awesome. It's a Sloan Kwik Load, all aluminum, front fairing, spare tire, deck lights, etc.



Old 04-16-2008, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by The NNIAL8R
Have you actually tried loading your car on this trailer yet???..When I was ready to buy a car trailer five years ago I told the dealer I would have to make certain Id be able to load my C5s on it first....First I tried a "conventional" flat car hauler....NO WAY could I get my C5s on it without MAJOR scraping of the nose and rocker panels.....So I opted for an 18 ft "dovetail" trailer.....The "dove-tail" allowed the cars to clear........My Z-06's nose sits even lower than my C5's do.......The only way I can begin to load it is by backing it on the trailer, but then, the nose scrapes the ground as Im backing up the ramps....It's a no win situation with my existing ramps......I could have some longer ramps built which would allow a more gradual climb onto the trailer, allowing the nose to clear....but then they wouldnt fit in the ramp stowage area of the trailer....AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!
I realize your trailer is a tilting unit..just make sure your car can be loaded on it before you spend all that $$$$!!
Dan Samento
Canon City, Co
www.dansamento.com
It's a hydraulic tilt trailer.

Old 04-16-2008, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyler_Z06
T-Hooks and ratchet straps. Put hooks into frame points and you're good to go.

You said you were getting a tilt trailer. I just picked mine up a week ago and it's awesome. It's a Sloan Kwik Load, all aluminum, front fairing, spare tire, deck lights, etc.



That is one nice trailer. I tried to get aluminum, but they are nowhere to be found in Washington. And I need the trailer for a trip to Dallas in 2-1/2 weeks, so I couldn't wait. I'll probably sell this one when I get back from Dallas.

Last edited by fperra; 04-16-2008 at 11:44 AM.
Old 04-16-2008, 11:19 AM
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just put some wood blocks under the ramps to get it up without scraping and then pull them off before you drive the rear wheels up and your all set
Old 04-16-2008, 11:41 AM
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I love my Quik-Load. Didn't splurge for the aluminum though.

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Old 04-16-2008, 11:47 AM
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With those steel T-hooks grabbing the aluminum frame, could that cause any problems?
Old 04-16-2008, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by fperra
It's a hydraulic tilt trailer.

I realize that...but have you actually loaded your car on it yet???....Hope youre not in for a surprise.......
Dan Samento
Canon City, Co
www.dansamento.com
Old 04-16-2008, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mrwrenchphd
Actually it's the stress imposed on the ring & pinion
With the car in gear, everything is connected, including the engine. The rocking back and forth can also cause the pistons to move up and down in the engine slightly, as they are connected to the crank, and the crank is connected to the transmission thru the clutch, etc etc. This can cause a ring of increased wear on the cylinder walls that is "off" from the rest of the cylinder, especially since none of that is getting oiled while you are towing. The timing chain connects the top end of the engine as well...

I park it on the trailer in gear and with the parking brake on, and then I strap it down just tight enough to hold it from rolling about the trailer. I then take it out of gear and release the parking break, ratchet the straps down good and tight, and then I reach back in and haul on the parking brake good and tight (just in case you lose a strap). You should criss-cross the straps, as others have stated, and you will see that the shipping slots actually point you in the correct direction for that based on their angle.

Good luck!

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