bluemagoo

I've just replaced the stock front pads with new stock (OEM) pads. Recommendations on breaking them in prior to upcoming HPDE? Thanks.

elh0102

You can find more detailed instructions on brake web sites, such as Zeckhausen and StopTech. But essentially, it is just a series of hard braking actions that gets the pads up to sufficient operating temperature to transfer a layer of pad material to the rotor in a uniform manner. Then they need to be allowed to cool by driving without braking. Since the OE pads are not especially high temp pads, and, you are maintaining the same pad, it should require only enough to achieve a uniform mating of the two surfaces.

jlutherva

OEM brake pads are really not designed for hard track use that results in very high pad temperatures. If your intent is to drive hard/brake hard, you really may want to consider swapping out at least the front pads with a set of racing pads for the HPDE.

You can burn up a set of OEM pads in a single day on some tracks driving hard.

If your intent is just go out and have fun and not push hard into the corners, you will probably be OK but you still need a backup plan in the event that you do torch your new pads, i.e. take your old pads with you and tools to change them.

Have fun and consider HPDE insurance!

Jim

BEZ06

with the previous posts!

Like elh0102 says, check out the great info on this StopTech site:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml

Clink on the link under Technical Guides: "Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures"

As Jim says, the OE pads aren't meant for the high temps you'll achieve on the track. They'll be okay if you take it easy. I have a high temp DOT 4 fluid and was running Hawk HP+ (advertised as street and occassional track pads) and I got brake fade a couple times last weekend. I still had a firm pedal, so I know the fluid was okay, but just ran out of brakes - NOT FUN!!! I was able to get around the corners it happened at and I backed it off a little after that.

Nothing the matter with the stock pads as long as you are careful to watch for possible fade.

I'd recommend possibly upgrading to a high boiling point brake fluid. Get a good DOT 4 - I run Motul RBF 600.

Bob

bluemagoo

The Stop-Tech site is a great source of information. I have it bookmarked now. Thanks for the info - it answered my question completely.

I did 7 track days last year on the original pads and probably could have squeaked another day out of them but why chance it. I'm just doing HPDE and not W2W or TT so I'm not super hard on the brakes. I've been using Castrol SRF and added spindle ducts over the winter. Otherwise the car's completely stock and on the GY RFs.

In the future I'll purchase a set of dedicated track pads and rotors as Frank Gonzales (and others) have recommended and swap them out before and after each event. For now, track time and instruction.

On a side note, it was interesting to see the pad taper on the padlets when I removed them. New OEM pads have about 9.5 mm of pad material. The thickness of material on the used padlets ranged from a max. of 7 mm to a min. of 4 mm (that range was not found on just a single pad).
None of the pads was worn parallel to the backing plate in either dimension.

Thanks again all.

bowtiguy

time to step up to a one piece design...almost ZERO taper nad huge increase in pad swept area. some run carbotech... I run Cobalts, best brake pad I have ever used.

we'll see how they hold up at HPR...then I'll take you for a ride with coleman rotors/XR2 pads

thisismyusername

Funny you mention this, I was just at Purifoy today having my pads replaced and brakes bled. The service adviser said that the technician would do the bedding, so I think I'm good to go. I think I'll check those sites as well.