[Z06] DIY Oil Change Jacking tools
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
DIY Oil Change Jacking tools
(Disclaimer #1 : I don't work out of the Speed Inc shop currently. I'm about 2 hours away from the shop at my current location. If I was still out of the shop I'd just use the lifts there.)
(Disclaimer #2 : I do not trust a dealership to change the oil. Not one bit. I've heard too many stories of oil change techs forcing the cap off of the valve cover.)
This spring I'll need to change my oil. I need to lift the car up and keep it level without dropping a ton of money on a lift or a few super expensive jacks. I've read the threads where people list jack part #'s and setups, but some of those parts are out of date or no longer available.
I just received a northern tool catalog and there was a 3.5" high jack that looks like it will do the part to jack from the center of each of the subframes. $124.99 http://goo.gl/sLkh I'm not sure if this one is "long" enough. I have a feeling it isn't.
I know with the subframes you can't put all the weight right in the middle. I can't find a jack "t" bar in the catalog. I really think a 2x4 would work to disperse the weight. Then use a jack stand at each end of the 2x4, then go to the other side of the car and jack it up.
Any ideas on how to pull this off with one jack safely that doesn't cost $500? I know there is a commonly used on Amazon.com - you just have to catch it when they are offering free shipping.
(Disclaimer #2 : I do not trust a dealership to change the oil. Not one bit. I've heard too many stories of oil change techs forcing the cap off of the valve cover.)
This spring I'll need to change my oil. I need to lift the car up and keep it level without dropping a ton of money on a lift or a few super expensive jacks. I've read the threads where people list jack part #'s and setups, but some of those parts are out of date or no longer available.
I just received a northern tool catalog and there was a 3.5" high jack that looks like it will do the part to jack from the center of each of the subframes. $124.99 http://goo.gl/sLkh I'm not sure if this one is "long" enough. I have a feeling it isn't.
I know with the subframes you can't put all the weight right in the middle. I can't find a jack "t" bar in the catalog. I really think a 2x4 would work to disperse the weight. Then use a jack stand at each end of the 2x4, then go to the other side of the car and jack it up.
Any ideas on how to pull this off with one jack safely that doesn't cost $500? I know there is a commonly used on Amazon.com - you just have to catch it when they are offering free shipping.
#3
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
#4
_"SCOTT"_
Others have done it and I followed their lead...
Jacking from the center is no problem. Here's my set-up...
You want to catch the frame where the seat supports connect to the frame rail. I cut strips of hard rubber to fit right in the area of the frame that I need to jack to have clearance from the rockers and not mark up anything. I also use hockey puck in the 4 corners.
Got the aluminum jack and stands from harbor freight for under $200 total.
Jacking from the center is no problem. Here's my set-up...
You want to catch the frame where the seat supports connect to the frame rail. I cut strips of hard rubber to fit right in the area of the frame that I need to jack to have clearance from the rockers and not mark up anything. I also use hockey puck in the 4 corners.
Got the aluminum jack and stands from harbor freight for under $200 total.
#5
_"SCOTT"_
Last edited by 3LZZ06; 02-17-2010 at 10:51 PM.
#6
Pro
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
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I just use the aluminum race jack from northern tool. Use one puck on the front left to raise the car and slide under the pan. Open the drain plug and lower it back down to drain level. Saves alot of time and money.
#8
Team Owner
Others have done it and I followed their lead...
Jacking from the center is no problem. Here's my set-up...
You want to catch the frame where the seat supports connect to the frame rail. I cut strips of hard rubber to fit right in the area of the frame that I need to jack to have clearance from the rockers and not mark up anything. I also use hockey puck in the 4 corners.
Got the aluminum jack and stands from harbor freight for under $200 total.
Jacking from the center is no problem. Here's my set-up...
You want to catch the frame where the seat supports connect to the frame rail. I cut strips of hard rubber to fit right in the area of the frame that I need to jack to have clearance from the rockers and not mark up anything. I also use hockey puck in the 4 corners.
Got the aluminum jack and stands from harbor freight for under $200 total.
#9
_"SCOTT"_
Scott, from this pic..you jacked the center of one side, put in the jack stands at the appropriate locations with pucks, and jacked the center of the other side repeating the same process??? I tried this, but was leary of putting the car on jack stands on one side while the car was at such a sideways angle...know what I mean? (And I didn't have an extra jack to go to the other side either, so it could catch up.)
PS. Another important note would be the beginning height of you jack stands. Mine are relatively short, maybe 12" with the pucks. I'll check the exact height when I get home and post. Obviously if your jack stands are monsters...that would be bad for this application.
Last edited by 3LZZ06; 02-19-2010 at 08:10 AM.
#10
Team Owner
AP, the Jack stands remain stable on the first side with the hard rubber pucks sticking to the car like glue while jacking the second side. Make sure the jack is on a relatively smooth surface and is at a 90 from the car to allow it to roll slightly as it is being elevated, compensating for the "tilt" of the car. I've also raised the car higher on the jack stands incrementally using the same method from side to side being careful to go up only one notch per side on the jacks for safety's sake. Also be sure to lower the car in the same manner and you'll have no problem.
PS. Another important note would be the beginning height of you jack stands. Mine are relatively short, maybe 12" with the pucks. I'll check the exact height when I get home and post. Obviously if your jack stands are monsters...that would be bad for this application.
PS. Another important note would be the beginning height of you jack stands. Mine are relatively short, maybe 12" with the pucks. I'll check the exact height when I get home and post. Obviously if your jack stands are monsters...that would be bad for this application.
#13
_"SCOTT"_
Be careful.
#15
While I don't use this particualr brand, I use a motorcycle/ATV lift to put my car in the air to be able to place jack stands. The jack is pretty low profile and many support weights in excess of 1500 lbs. I place my jack under the front or rear cradles...with the dual contact points, all the weight/pressure is distributed over a wider area.
#16
Race Director
3LZZ06's solution is mine as well. I jack center of the frame adjacent to where the seat brace ties in, for added strength. I have a 4"x4" 1x4 that I cut and wrapped with aluminum as a pad to protect the frame.
Jacked the car at least 100 times at home and at the track, and the frame is in fine shape.
Jacked the car at least 100 times at home and at the track, and the frame is in fine shape.
#17
Intermediate
#18
_"SCOTT"_
AP, the Jack stands remain stable on the first side with the hard rubber pucks sticking to the car like glue while jacking the second side. Make sure the jack is on a relatively smooth surface and is at a 90 from the car to allow it to roll slightly as it is being elevated, compensating for the "tilt" of the car. I've also raised the car higher on the jack stands incrementally using the same method from side to side being careful to go up only one notch per side on the jacks for safety's sake. Also be sure to lower the car in the same manner and you'll have no problem.
PS. Another important note would be the beginning height of you jack stands. Mine are relatively short, maybe 12" with the pucks. I'll check the exact height when I get home and post. Obviously if your jack stands are monsters...that would be bad for this application.
PS. Another important note would be the beginning height of you jack stands. Mine are relatively short, maybe 12" with the pucks. I'll check the exact height when I get home and post. Obviously if your jack stands are monsters...that would be bad for this application.
3LZZ06's solution is mine as well. I jack center of the frame adjacent to where the seat brace ties in, for added strength. I have a 4"x4" 1x4 that I cut and wrapped with aluminum as a pad to protect the frame.
Jacked the car at least 100 times at home and at the track, and the frame is in fine shape.
Jacked the car at least 100 times at home and at the track, and the frame is in fine shape.