C6-Z51-LS2

It seems like all the feedback I am getting is pointing towards the guide pins... The pins are by RB EZ Bolts (Racing brake) they are engineered and designed specifically for the C6 Z06 Calipers. Many people here on the forum use them with no problems.... from what I have researched-

C6-Z51-LS2

Imagine having a GS Conversion just completed and NOT being able to drive it for a STUPID reason such as this problem!! Its killing me Anyway, here are some pics of the car a few days ago...

Dirty Howie

There doesn't seem to be a documented clearance spec. But I know on mine some look like they are touching and some have obvious clearance.

Are these stock GM rotors??


DH

C6-Z51-LS2

Yup front + rear

Dirty Howie

Are the hubs clean, where they face up to the back of the rotor?

Unless these were mounted wrong its 100% the pins !!!!!

Do you have the stock pins to put in ..... this will tell you a lot.......


DH

C6-Z51-LS2

hubs are clean.... dont have stock pins... wish I did and if I buy them, its one expensive way to test the problem lol- But if it comes to it and I dont have a choice, obviously I will.....

drmrman

Never trust an aftermarket part... I would be sure to check there length. I would also be sure that the calipers are mounted properly again. Make sure the rotors mating surfaces are all clean AGAIN and see if maybe you are missing washers or some sort of spacers between the pins and the calipers... Its that small amount of space which can cause this... The clearance from the rotor to the face of those pins are EXTREMELY minute.

Cool car

rpanesar

Dude...look at the location of the pins and the deep cut into the rotor as they are an exact match, it appears that the culprit = pins...you may need to go to stock pins.

From C6ZO62C8

what kind of pads and pins did you use?

tjea

I use a wood clamp to compress the cylinders back in place.
Great write up.
I did a search for wood clamp

http://www.bing.com/shopping/1hsj-si...amps&FORM=HURE

drmrman

RB EZ pins and hawk pads

C6-Z51-LS2

they are aftermarket pins by Racing Brakes... I ended up putting about 70 miles on the car... just driving it, applying brakes.. bedding them.. the whole nine. I am happy to report that the screeching has stopped for the most part... I say that because occassionally when I make a FULL turn, you'll hear something scraping (that metal to metal sound) for 30 to 45 seconds and then it disappears again... So, I think with all the feedback and techs on the phone and physical/visual inspections, I have decided to just drive the car... put a few hundred miles on these new rotors and pads and monitor what happens... but we did find out: IT WAS DEFINITELY THE RACING BRAKE AFTERMARKET PINS THAT WERE MAKING CONTACT WITH THE ROTORS. We made sure everything was properly torqued, mounted, installed and we made sure that the area where the caliper bolts go through were not powdercoated and they werent. So, I now have to decide what to do regarding the whole formal complaint process with RB pertaining to the pins. Im just not the type of guy who likes pursuing these types of things.. they're prolonged and verry difficult to succeed in....

drmrman

YGPM

sammyv

It would be an easy fix to grind .020" or so off each pin to insure clearance.

harrydirty

Good idea on compressing the caliper pistons using a ratcheting clamp with rubber jaws.....however, I did it with the new padlets in place. Since the clamp has rubber jaws, no damage to caliper or pads AND the little nubs on the padlet backing plates ensures that the pistons are not pushed in too far.

However, all was not well......any tips on getting the rear calipers off? I could do the front calipers after turning the wheels full lock so I can get a really big breaker bar (a "cheater" pipe made it easy) on those tight caliper bolts, but the rear calipers really limit the size and leverage. Any ideas here besides getting the car on lift and cranking away underneath it?

LowFlight

Bump for this weekend DIY on mine.

How DO you get the rear bolts off given the space?

Bill Dearborn

Get the car as high as possible so you have room to work.

Easiest is to use an impact wrench. Also the bolt head size is 21mm not 13/16. Depending on how accurate the socket is you might find a 13/16 socket a little too tight to get on the bolt.

Another way is to use two open end wrenches linked together to give you more leverage.

I know one person who broke the bottom bolt loose by getting his breaker bar at just the right angle downwards followed by lowering the car until the weight of the car on the bar broke the bolt loose. Nothing like using gravity to do your work for you.

Bill

jedblanks

I second that, I was able to do these with my bare hands. Only brake calipers I've ever compressed that way.

jedblanks

Both rear tires off, in neutral, lay under the car, spin rotor 1/4 smack, repeat until it comes loose. I dead blow hammer helps. It too about 5 complete turns (20+ hits) to get the rears off my 14k mile Z. Pretty decent workout.

Red89gt

I used a breaker bar with pipe over handle and my fat a$$ for leverage.