76LS1BIRD

Per the 2007 service manual:

Rear rotors
New 26 mm/1.02 in.
Minimum after refinish 24.9 mm/0.980 in.
Discard 24.5 mm/0.965 in.

Front rotors
New 32 mm/1.26 in.
Minimum after refinish 30.6 mm/1.205 in.
Discard 30.3 mm/1.19 in.

dork

Hey Guys, I gotta swap out my pads and rotors. Since I'm gonna have "everything" apart, I thought I'd use new hardware, too--clips, brake caliper piston boots and seals, too. I've got the GM part number for the clips and pin boots (18039816; or the new number is 19261315).

But I can't find a number for the brake caliper's piston seals and boots. Can someone post those GM parts numbers for a c5 z06?

Thank you.

AzDave47

Try the C5 or Road race section rather than the C6 Z06 forum, might get better results.

If you road race you may want to check out the Doug Rippie SS caliper pistons.

Bill Dearborn

OEM Z06 Pad Pin Bolts 19121796

You can purchase the pins separately with this number. Parts Taxi has them for $12.73 ea plus shipping while GMPartsHouse has them for $14.81 plus shipping. Gene will usually match Kevin's pricing so it is worth calling them to get the best price including shipping.

Pad pin bolts also come in the GM brake pad kits so if you are doing pads and pins the GM kits can be cost effective. Kevin has the front and rear pad kits priced at $249.95.

The GM seal kits include new pistons so are a little pricier than places that sell just a seal kit. If you are going to replace the seals and pistons they are a good deal when purchased through the forum GM Parts vendors. Call each of them to make sure you are getting the correct kit. I have looked at those kits for the last several years and the online catalogs have continually listed them incorrectly. If you go to your local dealer do the same thing as their parts catalog is screwed up the same way. No way is a Z06 front kit for a 6 piston caliper the same cost as a base/Z51 front kit with a 2 piston caliper.

If you want to replace just the seals check out Zeckhausen Racing's web site. They have seal kits for the front and rear calipers and separate bolt kits. More importantly they have the assembly lubricant required to install new seals/pistons. If you don't have the lubricant you will tear the seals or damage something else trying to force the pistons into the calipers. The lubricant isn't available at standard auto parts stores since nobody rebuilds calipers anymore. Young clerks will have no idea what you are talking about while the gray hair stooped over guys will say they have no idea where to get it. GM provides small packages of lubricant in their piston/seal kits. Take my word for it you will need the lubricant and don't let some idiot clerk BS you into using the lubricant meant for the outside of the caliper.

Here is the link to their site for seals/pistons/bolts:
http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...02_103_104_847

You may find these items a little cheaper some place else but this will give you an idea of what the costs are.

The lubricant comes in an 8 oz bottle and will last through a lot of caliper rebuilds. Here is the link to it:

http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/...facturers_id=1

Lubricant is right at the top of the page.

Just noticed you said C5Z06. The overhaul kits for the C5 calipers are easily orderable from your local dealer and the forum GM parts vendors. You really don't need the part number. If you have a club discount with your local dealer the price with tax will be competitive with the forum vendors price with shipping. Online price is ~$18 per front caliper.

Bill

dork

Dave and Bill, thanks very much for your replies. I didn't realize I was in the C6 section... I found the thread with a search. Your advice is still helpful.

Thank you.

MrMagic

All, thanks in advance for your patience. I'm upgrading from Z51 stock brakes to ZO6. The brakes did not come with guide pins so I bought some and ready to install. My question is do I run the pins in until conical base of the pin contacts the caliper and then torque? Also, I see several complaints about the pins seizing when its time to replace the pads. Is the loctite contributing to this? Anything I can do to not be a victim to such permanency? (car will not be tracked) Final question; are any of you putting a dab of grease on the end of the installed pins?

Red89gt

Most just do a light snug on the pins with anti seize light film on the threads. If you torque them in you may never get them out, at least not easily.

I have never put grease on the pins but I do put a dab on the ears of the pads when I put them in like any other brake job.

AzDave47

It's always a balancing job on the pins. Use neverseize so you can get them out or torque to spec and hope they don't seize.

One of the more dangerous things is for the pins to come out unplanned and damage a wheel if it is an outside pin or possibly lose a padlet and lose braking.

The alternative to the seized pins is to take the caliper off using the two big caliper bolts and then remove the pads or padlets, so there is no real big downside to having the caliper pins seize, but there is a big downside to having them come out unplanned. This is not a downside for us that use single pads as we must take out the two caliper bolts to change/replace the pads.

Whis9

Sub'd

tommypenguin

I'm getting ready to install brand new C6 Z06 calipers on my C5. I'm planning on putting anti-seize on the threads of the pad alignment bolts and lubing the ends of them with brake quiet grease. 30ft/lbs is the correct torque spec for those pad alignment bolts?

Given there are only two caliper bolts to pull, to remove the entire caliper versus 8 pad alignment bolts per front and 6 per rear why would anyone not remove the entire caliper when doing a brake job with these calipers? Am I missing something?

Dirty Howie

No. Its easier to remove the calipers ..............


DH

morris

you would think it would be quicker to just remove the 8 bolts slide in new pads and put the bolts back. In reality its not that way, those bolts tend to get stuck pretty tight and it is easy to break torx bits trying to get them out

AzDave47

23 lb-ft.

Corvette Forum Editor

Perfect topic for this week's How-To Tuesday...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/how-to...alipers-368401

Corvette Forum Editor

great topic for today's how-to spotlight...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/how-to...alipers-368402

Red89gt

Not so sure you want to put 30 ft-lbs on the brake line steel banjo bolt into an aluminum threaded caliper. The bolt will win and yank the calipers threads, that torque should be in in-lbs, just a hand tighten snug.

"Step 5: Re-install the brake line, there should be a gasket on both sides of the brake line fitting. Torque to 30 lb-ft."

AzDave47

My Z06 torque specs show that bolt as 33 #-ft.

Red89gt

I would bet a lot money that is a misprint. All you want to do is torque enough to lightly crush the gaskets to seal. 33 ft lbs will trash the caliper. Not debating, everyone can do as they please just trying to help anyone out that reads this before they put a wrench on that bolt.

AzDave47

Noted.

The pad pin torque is 30#-ft into the caliper and mine has a torx45 head. Undoing 30 on that twisted the torx bit.

Brian71

I'm re-painting my calipers. I removed 27 of 28 pins. One wouldn't come out no matter what I did.
There are tourque settings listed for the pins from 23-30 pounds. I used anti-sieze and settled for 25 pounds.