[Z06] Are these good stock street alignment specs???
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Are these good stock street alignment specs???
Car is a 2009 C6Z06.
Front Left: Front Right:
Camber= -1.1* Camber= -1.0*
Caster= 8.3* Caster= 8.3*
Toe= 0.01* Toe= 0.00*
Total Toe= 0.01*
Thrust Angle= 0.00*
Rear Left: Rear Right:
Camber= -1.0* Camber= -1.1*
Toe= -0.05* Toe= -0.05*
Total Toe= -0.10*
I'd like SLIGHTLY more aggressive specs for ONLY street driving. The car is bone stock. I don't want any premature tire wear.....Any suggestions on both the current settings OR what I can change to achieve what I want.
From what I gather, Slight toe-in (a '+' # ??) up front & zero toe out back is ideal for street driving erring SLIGHTLY to the aggressive side??
Thanks!!
Ron
Front Left: Front Right:
Camber= -1.1* Camber= -1.0*
Caster= 8.3* Caster= 8.3*
Toe= 0.01* Toe= 0.00*
Total Toe= 0.01*
Thrust Angle= 0.00*
Rear Left: Rear Right:
Camber= -1.0* Camber= -1.1*
Toe= -0.05* Toe= -0.05*
Total Toe= -0.10*
I'd like SLIGHTLY more aggressive specs for ONLY street driving. The car is bone stock. I don't want any premature tire wear.....Any suggestions on both the current settings OR what I can change to achieve what I want.
From what I gather, Slight toe-in (a '+' # ??) up front & zero toe out back is ideal for street driving erring SLIGHTLY to the aggressive side??
Thanks!!
Ron
Last edited by Dr.Ron; 06-09-2010 at 10:47 PM.
#4
#6
Le Mans Master
I had everything zeroed out and it does help with traction in the straight lines. Around corners you can tell the car would have more but with NT-05s and that much rubber it really doesn't matter. Unless you are hitting the track and being competitive you really don't need any assistance from an alignment. Just my opinion though.
#8
Pfadt's web site has a great alignment guide. Pick your poison, mild street to full track.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. There is QUITE a discrepancy though on front toe vs. rear toe, and I DON'T mean in THIS thread. I mean all over the forum.
Some say toe Zero F&R, some say Zero rear & to out up front......
I want the car to handle well, like a sports car should, but I don't want premature wear on the edges either....I know, I'm asking a lot!
Also, is (-) toe in front=toe in? Does the same apply for the rear, or is it opposite for the rear?
Thanks, & keep the responses coming.
Ron
Some say toe Zero F&R, some say Zero rear & to out up front......
I want the car to handle well, like a sports car should, but I don't want premature wear on the edges either....I know, I'm asking a lot!
Also, is (-) toe in front=toe in? Does the same apply for the rear, or is it opposite for the rear?
Thanks, & keep the responses coming.
Ron
#10
Race Director
front should toe OUT or zero, rear should to IN or zero. Simple geometry (check my website on Ackerman for more info).
Even stock alignment can cause wear on high performance tires, so don't expect miracles.
However, I would go to the MAXIMUM OEM settings. So, while aggressive, this is within what GM might actually sell the car to you.
Front: Camber -1.6º, Castor up to 8.6º (I'm not sure you actually NEED this much), Toe up to .3º (3/32")..... I recommend sticking to 1/32", or 0.1deg for a street car
Rear: Camber -1.5º (you don't really need this much, probably 1.25 is plenty), Toe -0.2 (toe IN), 1/6" toe in.
Even stock alignment can cause wear on high performance tires, so don't expect miracles.
However, I would go to the MAXIMUM OEM settings. So, while aggressive, this is within what GM might actually sell the car to you.
Front: Camber -1.6º, Castor up to 8.6º (I'm not sure you actually NEED this much), Toe up to .3º (3/32")..... I recommend sticking to 1/32", or 0.1deg for a street car
Rear: Camber -1.5º (you don't really need this much, probably 1.25 is plenty), Toe -0.2 (toe IN), 1/6" toe in.
#11
Le Mans Master
I agree with Dave's recommendations above, but YOU really need to be HONEST with yourself and decide what you want to do with the car?
Are you doing ANY track days...are you a drag racer? Or are you 100% street?
If the car is driven on the street with OEM runflats, not sure you going to get a whole lot of benefit from a more aggressive allignment, you will just increase the wear on your tire. Even if you canyon carve, you will loose more in wear than you will gain in performance (my opinion). I can't see the trade off being worthwhile. Also, the car will tram more on uneven pavement, and potentially handle worse at low speed.
For roadrace, generally you want toe out in the front to assist high speed turn in...you want toe in on the rear to also assist with turn in, but most importantly when you mash the pedal coming out of a turn, your rear tires will squat to zero toe under the pressure and provide the most traction for that launch down the strait.
If you were a drag racer and strait line acceleration is key, you would still want toe in on the rear, so rear tires are pointed strait down the track under hard squat, instead of outwards. Have you every seen someone launch at the strip, totally go sideways and lose it...there is a chance that person had bad allignment and had to much toe out in the rear and thus the rear came out from underneath them on hard acceleration. Also, if you were drag racing, you would want basically no camber in the rear, so the tires are as flat as possible with the most contact patch.
For the street, I think the stock allignment is more than adequate. Road race allignments only work for cars under the most EXTREME conditions with 1+g cornering forces continuosly at high speed.
I run -3.0 camber in front, but that only works under the most extreme conditions, on Hoosiers, and at the absolute limit of the car. My car handles poorly around town at 45 miles per hour compared to a stock car, but will lay down amazing lap times at the limit.
Hopefully this helps your decision.
Are you doing ANY track days...are you a drag racer? Or are you 100% street?
If the car is driven on the street with OEM runflats, not sure you going to get a whole lot of benefit from a more aggressive allignment, you will just increase the wear on your tire. Even if you canyon carve, you will loose more in wear than you will gain in performance (my opinion). I can't see the trade off being worthwhile. Also, the car will tram more on uneven pavement, and potentially handle worse at low speed.
For roadrace, generally you want toe out in the front to assist high speed turn in...you want toe in on the rear to also assist with turn in, but most importantly when you mash the pedal coming out of a turn, your rear tires will squat to zero toe under the pressure and provide the most traction for that launch down the strait.
If you were a drag racer and strait line acceleration is key, you would still want toe in on the rear, so rear tires are pointed strait down the track under hard squat, instead of outwards. Have you every seen someone launch at the strip, totally go sideways and lose it...there is a chance that person had bad allignment and had to much toe out in the rear and thus the rear came out from underneath them on hard acceleration. Also, if you were drag racing, you would want basically no camber in the rear, so the tires are as flat as possible with the most contact patch.
For the street, I think the stock allignment is more than adequate. Road race allignments only work for cars under the most EXTREME conditions with 1+g cornering forces continuosly at high speed.
I run -3.0 camber in front, but that only works under the most extreme conditions, on Hoosiers, and at the absolute limit of the car. My car handles poorly around town at 45 miles per hour compared to a stock car, but will lay down amazing lap times at the limit.
Hopefully this helps your decision.
Last edited by 95jersey; 06-10-2010 at 02:55 PM.
#12
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
front should toe OUT or zero, rear should to IN or zero. Simple geometry (check my website on Ackerman for more info).
Even stock alignment can cause wear on high performance tires, so don't expect miracles.
However, I would go to the MAXIMUM OEM settings. So, while aggressive, this is within what GM might actually sell the car to you.
Front: Camber -1.6º, Castor up to 8.6º (I'm not sure you actually NEED this much), Toe up to .3º (3/32")..... I recommend sticking to 1/32", or 0.1deg for a street car
Rear: Camber -1.5º (you don't really need this much, probably 1.25 is plenty), Toe -0.2 (toe IN), 1/6" toe in.
Even stock alignment can cause wear on high performance tires, so don't expect miracles.
However, I would go to the MAXIMUM OEM settings. So, while aggressive, this is within what GM might actually sell the car to you.
Front: Camber -1.6º, Castor up to 8.6º (I'm not sure you actually NEED this much), Toe up to .3º (3/32")..... I recommend sticking to 1/32", or 0.1deg for a street car
Rear: Camber -1.5º (you don't really need this much, probably 1.25 is plenty), Toe -0.2 (toe IN), 1/6" toe in.
Now that I know about alignments, I guess I could adj the toe to 0/0 for the drag strip if need be simple enough.
Ron
Last edited by Dr.Ron; 06-10-2010 at 03:08 PM.
#13
Race Director
toe out front might increase drag a tiny bit.... 1 flat one each side would pretty much zero it out if you set is to 0.1deg. Toe IN in the rear wouldn't hurt anything, as mentioned under hard acceleration it basically toes out to zero on it's own.
#14
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks guys!
Thanks to Matt (95 Jersey) for resetting my TPS's for me!! Nice meeting you at the track. You sure can push your car to it's limits!!
See you at Lightning in July!
Ron
Thanks to Matt (95 Jersey) for resetting my TPS's for me!! Nice meeting you at the track. You sure can push your car to it's limits!!
See you at Lightning in July!
Ron