Geared

Just wondering the differences between the 2.

They look similar, but whats the actual difference, is one sleeker, one more beneficial, etc

I recently read that the LG requires no additional drilling or reinforcement....what about the APR product in this regard.

Difference in weigh? Carbon finish quality?

I have the opportunity to buy an APR locally at a good price....but need to know how it compares to the LG....as LG makes some interesting.

Thanks

jb

bluman

Geared

hopefully someone can chime in

petermj

From looking at these two, if you do not have to drill, you lose four mounting points, two on each side where the ducts are If you get one that requires additional holes to be drilled, you will be lacking the metal mounting tabs that factory uses. In addition, the tray being integrated permanently, must make mounting lots of fun.

No additional reinforcement needed means that splitter does very little with regards to increasing downforce, the center tray does not provide enough structural reinforcement to the splitter to prevent flexing, should some real awesome downforce be generated (I am pretty sure it is not thanks to those invaluable and very useful brake ducts The fact the spoiler (as I saw being claimed somewhere here) can hold up to 200 mph is not necessarily a positive testimony to the actual effectiveness of a splitter.

gotjuice?

I agree with the first paragraph and strongly dissagree with the second paragraph. The LG is very strong/sturdy as the undertray is built into the front lip. The ZR1 unit will bend at speed because it does not have the undertray. I am sure Lou will chime in on the quality of his splitter. As for mounting, It is harder to mount with the undertray. I modified mine so as I can remove and install in about 5 minutes.

Corvee

I owned an APR unit and the LG piece seem to be very close in terms of manufacturing materials and design. Both do not appear to be full carbon fiber pieces. The brake duct of the LG unit is open at the top of the spilliter and a closed loop with the APR -this restricts the air flow to your front brakes.

It really depends on your application. Both will work well for street duty. If you are looking for a track dedicated piece, then consider the Katech unit with the full undertray (for downforce) and integrated brake ducts. Being a full carbon fiber piece it is also significantly lighter, but more expensive as well.

fperra

I have both of them sitting in my garage trying to decide which one to use. The APR has a very tight weave CF compared to the LG. From that standpoint, I think LG looks a little better. The designs are very similar in regards to the under tray, and if LG is correct regarding not requiring the nose re-enforcement, then the same should apply to the APR.

Nolyaw

You have everything dude.

fperra

I wish.

petermj

I see no harm in disagreements

From the structural integrity POV, APR is a better design, due to those extra mounting points that are missing from LG. If you increase the number of mounting points, the piece itself does not have to be very sturdy, as long as the bumper itself has some stability to it. From looking at APR spoiler, the way those screws over the duct mount, it is still just as much PIA as the LG design-neither one shows a lot of thought being put into service aspect of the part. Ironically enough, those ducts do very little to help brake cooling. They are there to decrease the downforce as a matter of fact-at expense of increased drag and decreased structural integrity. I am pretty sure the Z06 relies considerably more on relatively smooth area undrer the bumper than on that front splitter or the original lip. I would say what is available is 99% visual bling than actual function. This includes the side skirts. BTW, if you design the splitter correctly, you do not need an undertray, usually these two are mutually exclusive. And Z06 is already pretty smooth in this area. Katech is on to something because they do not use the original ZR1 frontal shape but between the price and the final product, I'd pass as well. Their undertray, uhm no, I gotta be polite here Then again, I am sure they all have some true crushing explanations regarding what these things do.

Clarification about Katech splitter: the one I am referring to does not cost 2 grand, it costs 40 grand because it can be had only with their club sport 535hp monster package The one available to the masses is not any different than the other two, except for those uber cooling ducts of course

petermj

if you are worried about the weave, just paint them both Here is something you can do if you are worried about ducts being restricted: take some duct tape and tape them off completely and start waiting for your brakes to start glowing red or fading. You may be in for a long wait. Check out the Katech club sport splitter, it has no ducts and you can certainly make the ducting they offer for 400 bucks purely optional. The reason for holy design is there to do something else. This has more to do with the reason why the lip of the ZR1 splitter is so thin in the center area.

Katech_Zach

This needs some clarification. The splitter that you see on the silver ClubSport mule that was all over the internet and magazines was an MTI splitter because the Katech splitter had not been developed yet. You can purchase the MTI splitter if you wish. Future ClubSports will have Katech splitters. The MTI splitter does have brake ducts, they're just in the undertray and you can't see them. When we wind tunnel tested the Katech splitter we saw huge increases in downforce when we added the undertray.

petermj

Ah me bad, I forgot about MTI and their $2k take on vette splitter. When you say huge downforce increase, did you quantify this? Also, an increase is expected but... is it due to entire undertray or more like to the area close to the leading edge? I am also very curious about the shape of the lip and the raised area back of the leading edge of the splitter. I am still trying to understand how these brake ducts supposed to work due to the low pressure area under that tray... I am also curious about the way this thing mounts, the tray must come off somehow I am guessing? I am so curious because I am pretty much done with my take on the Z06 splitter and after mentioning my design idea that I implemented, I was told that at high speed, I would be facing a strong possibility of tearing the POS bumper off without mounting the splitter directly to the frame. If you have some numbers, I'd be willing to find out using a static load on the splitter mounted to the splitter (unless the number is close to the weight of the car itself)

Katech_Zach

Yes, I can quantify that with our wind tunnel report.
http://www.katechengines.com/street_...a%20report.pdf


The splitter mounts to the front fascia using the production bolts. The front fascia reinforcement is recommended. With the reinforcement, the bolts go through the splitter, through the fascia, and into the reinforcement. The undertray bolts on to the splitter via the flange in the front, and two 90 degree brackets that mount to the radiator support.

LG Motorsports

Hi Guys,

Using general force numbers in % do not tell anything other than which end did what.

In fact if you put a 100 pound weight on the rear of the car with ZERO wind flow you will see LIFT at the front of t he car just from the leverage effect. Same happens with corner weights as you add rear weight on a car, you reduce the front wheel weight readings from that leverage.

SO putting a big rear spoiler on the rear without any offsetting front down force you will still see lift on the front. That does not mean that the front splitter did not make down force it just means that the rear is lifting the front up giving a false AERO reading that is not due to "aero affect"

Our splitter recommends that the stock front air dam be removed. In stock form it was there to reduce stock drag for CAFE fuel mileage standards. But on the track it creates lift and therefore is counter productive. Also understand that ANY down force adds drag.

Plus, the ZR1 splitter was made to balance the rear ZR1 rear spoiler. When you use our LG Splitter it needs our new Rear Spoiler to balance it at speed. A stock ZR1 rear spoiler with a 1" extension attached to the rear of it will balance it very well (until the spring when our LG rear spoiler comes available with this built in as part of the rear spoiler)

The closed in bottom adds strength to the overcome the bending and flex that the stock ZR1 splitter has from being open.

We know from all the wind tunnel testing that we did that the closed bottom, using front breathing also interferes with the aero numbers. IF you push all the air in the front, it lifts the hood. And hood louvers release most of the air from the middle of the hood, which is why our first hood only had a center set of louvers. We will have the LG Version of that hood coming soon with 3 sets of louvers to take advantage of the last 10% of air release from under the hood soon.



The LG splitter uses the down force on top of the splitter to push air toward the stock brake ducts because our bottom is enclosed and the bottom stock air dam should be removed.





APR front splitter with stock Z06 brake ducts will not work unless you leave the stock air dam installed behind them to CREATE LIFT in the area of the duct holes. and with any of the front splitters, if you leave the stock air dam installed, you will be creating offsetting lift that counters the down force of the splitter. And since the cooling only needs about 2/3 of the air inlet size on the Z06, our Super Ram that we used on the Rolex race car took 1/3 of the inlet air and pushed it into the engine and reduced lift at the same time. (Rolex car does not allow louvers on the hood)







We have found that under 160 mph, the LG Splitter does not need any extra reinforcement around the opening because of the added rigidity that comes from the bottom added to the front splitter. The open bottom on the stock ZR1 will flex easily especially if you hit it and crack it. Like bending a flat piece of metal vs bending a square tube.

What it will do at 200 I have not answered but if your car will go 200 on track, let me know.




If the stock brake holes are used then leave about 5" of the stock bottom air dam behind the holes to help add air to the brakes. This will still be a + in down force rather than leaving the whole thing.

On a ZR1, leave the deflectors on the lower A arms to help cool the brakes.



we added another 4" of front splitter to the ZR1 that we ran the hill climb with so we could use the rear ALMS wing and balance and max the down force.


Let me know if I have answered some of your questions. i will be glad to chime in to clarify anything that we need to.

thanks guys.

Lou Gigliotti

fperra

Lou, I just installed your front splitter today. A couple of comments:

The holes on the bottom for screwing in the mounting bolts on the one I installed were only about 1/8" in diameter. Kind of hard to get a socket through there.Obviously, I had to drill them out.

Also, I noticed from your picture that there are two screws on the backside of your under tray holding it down. On my splitter there are no holes for this. Can you give me some dimensions so that I can drill them in the right place?

LG Motorsports

did you get the angle aluminum part for the rear attachment?

that is so you can remove the bottom stock under tray and add the aluminum angle and bolt the rear up to it.

let me know if that was sent .

Also, the holes that are small need to have the screws put in the upper layer first and held up with tape, then the bottom surface will fit the screw driver so you can attach it that way. We don't want to drill holes large enough to fit the stock screws and washers, so the lower holes might not fit the washers.

send us a picture so I can see what the issue was. If we have to correct it in the future then we will.

thanks
Lou G

fperra

No, no hardware came with it. Also, the CF side extensions came with no hardware. I think that only consists of 28 3/16th pop rivets, so that's no big deal.

LG Motorsports

Yeah, I don't think they send side skirts with hardware. Maybe that is an add in the future.

LG

petermj

agreed. I would like to see the actual NUMBERS that contributed to these percentages as well. Good for a sales brochure though.

Uhm, are you sure about this? Air dam/spoiler "spoils" the air flow and creates turbulence that results in slower air flow. Slower air flow is less pressure, thus, the opposite of lift me think?

Are you sure about this one? Maybe the side skirts would be the ones creating lift reduction instead of that rear spoiler or at least a combo of both? The stock splitter will flex plus it was designed for very limited lift reduction. Thus, this is more of visual bling than actual improvement.

Uhm wait, doesn't the factory ZR1 set up use the reinforcement? Thus, when used as it was designed to be used on ZR1, this should not be an issue.

This is a given since any opening in frontal area will increase drage. The question is, why do you retain the factory openings in the splitter then?

I seriously doubt this is the case because as a matter of fact, there is no downforce on top of the splitter or anything else And as a matter of fact, the factory air dam is way more effective in supplying the air flow to the brake ducts because physics says so...

This is not true because the dam will create lift reduction not increase, see the explanation above.

No, it will not offset anything. The only thing that will increase will be the drag but it will be put to good cause by reducing the lift. Removing that factory dam should be last thing that anyone should do on these cars.
ZR1 comes with the reinforcement stock, thus no flexing ON A CAR. As a matter of fact, I was trying a few today and they do not flex, the side skirts flex though.

Leave the whole thing, it will work better for sure.



chances are very good, depending on speed, you would bottom out the suspension first.