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[Z06] Break-in oil for new engine
08-07-2011, 02:23 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Break-in oil for new engine
What oil are you guys running for new engine break-in? Are you sticking with the more expensive oils that you immediately dump, or are you using a cheaper dino oil for break-in? Also, in regards to viscosity, should I run the same Mobil1 5w30 or should I switch to a heavier weight oil now? My engine builder says that he is running 10w40 Valvoline VR1 and that is what he recommends, but I've been debating running a diesel oil for the zinc features in it...my car has no cats.
-Scott
-Scott
08-07-2011, 10:04 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
You are going to get so many opinions/ideas on this one.
First, what is new in the engine?
The official answer is Mobil 1 5W-30 that GM recommends.
If you are going to run it for 20 minutes and then drop the oil and cut the filter apart, then just use the Walmart Supertech. It is a good quality oil and last time I checked it was supplied by Castrol.
You mentioned diesel oil. Shell Rotella will work well also because it still has a higher ZDP content. It is available in both synthetic and conventional.
Valvoline VR1 is a great race engine oil and does not foam like some of the others. I'm not sure I would use it in a stock LS7.
The bottom line is, if your clearances are right and the oiling system is working correctly, almost any quality oil will work.
First, what is new in the engine?
The official answer is Mobil 1 5W-30 that GM recommends.
If you are going to run it for 20 minutes and then drop the oil and cut the filter apart, then just use the Walmart Supertech. It is a good quality oil and last time I checked it was supplied by Castrol.
You mentioned diesel oil. Shell Rotella will work well also because it still has a higher ZDP content. It is available in both synthetic and conventional.
Valvoline VR1 is a great race engine oil and does not foam like some of the others. I'm not sure I would use it in a stock LS7.
The bottom line is, if your clearances are right and the oiling system is working correctly, almost any quality oil will work.
08-07-2011, 10:12 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The engine just has new rod bearings, main bearings, Mahle forged pistons, new rings, arp hardware, honed stock rods, and a polished stock crank. The heads are angle milled, new bronze valve guides, stock intake valves, SS exhaust valves, big cam, springs, etc...the car is an E85 car and was designed for high compression. Richard at WCCH says that with my new pistons which only have 2 valve reliefs in them, that it will add about 4cc to the engine and will bump the compression up even higher than the 13.8:1 that it was setup for. He is thinking I will be around 14.2-14.3:1 which he feels will be fine on E85.
I am just going to be putting in the oil, warming the car up to operating temps, draining the oil, inspecting the filter, and then refilling. The second fill will stay in the car for a hundred miles or so, then I will repeat the process with my more permanent oil that will stay in the car for 2000 miles or so. I am debating the Rotella or other diesel oils for the ZDP content and since I am not running cats, I'm not worried about that part. Just wasn't sure if any one brand was recommended over the other and also what weight I should be running.
Like you said, I talk to one guy and he says stick with Mobil1 5w30 and my builder says that he doesn't like that thin of oil and that he also runs the 10w40 VR1 in his car and in the engines he builds. He mentioned something about the bearing clearances stock vs. built and that they are purposely set a little looser to help prevent spinning a bearing or something...again, this is now getting over my head, but because of that he likes the slightly heavier weight oil. He said he runs 20w50 in some of his race engines.
I am just going to be putting in the oil, warming the car up to operating temps, draining the oil, inspecting the filter, and then refilling. The second fill will stay in the car for a hundred miles or so, then I will repeat the process with my more permanent oil that will stay in the car for 2000 miles or so. I am debating the Rotella or other diesel oils for the ZDP content and since I am not running cats, I'm not worried about that part. Just wasn't sure if any one brand was recommended over the other and also what weight I should be running.
Like you said, I talk to one guy and he says stick with Mobil1 5w30 and my builder says that he doesn't like that thin of oil and that he also runs the 10w40 VR1 in his car and in the engines he builds. He mentioned something about the bearing clearances stock vs. built and that they are purposely set a little looser to help prevent spinning a bearing or something...again, this is now getting over my head, but because of that he likes the slightly heavier weight oil. He said he runs 20w50 in some of his race engines.
Last edited by lane_change; 08-07-2011 at 10:16 AM.
08-07-2011, 01:24 PM
#4
Race Director
Your engine builder built it. He has the experience. He knows the clearances. He knows how the cylinder walls were honed. Listen to him.
Last edited by 383vett; 08-07-2011 at 01:50 PM.
08-07-2011, 01:47 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
There used to be an old convention that you never break a new motor in with synthetic oil, but that is pretty much gone now.
I would start it up and run it for the 20 min break in period with Walmart Supertech Synthetic. It runs about $20 for 5 qts. After the break in procedure, drain it and cut open the filter.
Check for metal particles, especially copper (from bearings). You can sort shiny alum fragments from steel/iron with a magnet. Hopefully there will just be a lot of lint and assembly lube in the filter media from the assembly.
Next, I would refill it with Mobil 1 5W-30 or Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40 and install a new filter. The Rotella has a higher ZDP, but both are very good oils.
The Amsoil fans are going to jump all over this. They have some good oils also, but they are not as vastly superior as they would have you believe.
Best of luck!
I would start it up and run it for the 20 min break in period with Walmart Supertech Synthetic. It runs about $20 for 5 qts. After the break in procedure, drain it and cut open the filter.
Check for metal particles, especially copper (from bearings). You can sort shiny alum fragments from steel/iron with a magnet. Hopefully there will just be a lot of lint and assembly lube in the filter media from the assembly.
Next, I would refill it with Mobil 1 5W-30 or Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40 and install a new filter. The Rotella has a higher ZDP, but both are very good oils.
The Amsoil fans are going to jump all over this. They have some good oils also, but they are not as vastly superior as they would have you believe.
Best of luck!
08-07-2011, 02:42 PM
#6
Race Director
My engine is stock and under GM warantee, so I'll use Mobil 5W-30, even though I'd prefer Amsoil or Royal Purple.
You have a built motor. You trusted the builder with your big $, use his recommendation for motor oils, since no GM warantee implications. He should be able to recommend a break-in oil.
You have a built motor. You trusted the builder with your big $, use his recommendation for motor oils, since no GM warantee implications. He should be able to recommend a break-in oil.
08-07-2011, 03:12 PM
#7
Pro
08-07-2011, 05:55 PM
#8
08-08-2011, 12:30 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I went with the cheap-o 10w40 for break in. We did the first start today, fully warmed the engine up, drained it out, replaced the filter, refilled it with more cheap-o oil, and I am now going to drive on that oil for 100-200 miles, then I will change that oil and filter again, and then go with the Rotella T6 for the engine. I talked to him today and he said that stuff works really well, has good ZDP values...so he said that would be fine. Or again he would go with the VR1 10w40 for the new clearances. He still doesn't think I should go back to the Mobil1 5w30 personally. So I am going to stick with the 40w oils.
