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[Z06] How Long Have People Been Running Solid Stainless Exhaust Valves in the LS7?

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Old 12-20-2012, 06:22 PM
  #41  
Mookster
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
Can't do it in the first post.

That's an instant and open invitation to hotheads ready to fly off the handle.

You can't even say "stainless steel" without them going into a fit.

Make that the first thing they read, and they will be in here causing a ruckus and worst case scenario, end up getting the thread locked.

I don't want that type in here while we are having a fruitful discussion.

So I did it in the third post.
Perfect and thank you, 3rd post works as i can count up to 5

Fail much? 3rd post is popcorn(i guess this could be a viable solution)
Old 12-20-2012, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mookster
Quick, can you post cliffs at the end of your first post...like if there has been any blown ups with ss exhaust valves. Reading novels isnt my thing
Sure here it is, I help Ricky:

No. A mouse over is not going to get you your answer.

solved
Old 12-20-2012, 06:25 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Mookster
Perfect and thank you, 3rd post works as i can count up to 5

Fail much? 3rd post is popcorn(i guess this could be a viable solution)
My third post.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:25 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FSTFRC
Sure here it is, I help Ricky:

No. A mouse over is not going to get you your answer.

solved
Do you work for Quick as an aSSistant?
Old 12-20-2012, 06:26 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
My third post.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:43 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by FSTFRC
Why not pick up your phone and call some of the major shops and ask them how many z06's that they have installed SS valves in? Should be easy to find someone who has put some miles on this setup....
It's Quick's thread - I was hoping he'd do the leg work since he started this thread to show us how successful solid valves are.

I just don't think "ah ha! someone's been selling stainless valves for years!" is much of a revelation in the context this thread was presented. This thread is actually kind of a joke, IMHO when we realize there's a total void of actual data. I believe data is out there - or at the least it will be - it's just not in this thread.

I'd actually LOVE to see long-term results with solid valves and bronze guides (or solid and OEM guides) - hopefully others will have that information in the future. I'd LOVE to see a legitimate, 100% fix for every person who wants to be past this whole thing and as more people get more miles on their solid valve setups hopefully the perfection is preserved. But right now I see a bunch of hand-waving saying "this is it, we're all saved!" because someone posted a link to a vendor's advertisement circa 2007?

The short of it is, although I expect solid stainless valves to have a superior record eventually - there's still no guarantee that success will be from actually "fixing" an as-of-yet agreed upon cause, as opposed to just replacing OEM parts with a better band aid (solid valves being less prone to shear than hollow stem). It wasn't just a year ago everyone knew the hollow valve itself was the problem. Then maybe those guides are coming from the factory that way? Hmmm, well, now maybe there's a pedestal or geometry issue?

The reason we have an active 1500-post "geometry" thread in this subforum should give some pause before we proclaime the science is settled on this. There's a lot of good information circulating around this forum, but I'm not sure anyone has it pegged 100% given what we know (except for Quicksilver, of course).

But I digress, let's get back to Quicksilver bitching and moaning about how I must be under significant emotional duress because I don't agree with him.

Last edited by Random84; 12-20-2012 at 06:46 PM.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:45 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
I spoke to Richard today..... He feels it should be good to go for over 2 years. Thats what I want.


DH
Just out of curiosity, how long did your stock LS7 go before it popped? I thought you had a few years and tens of thousands of miles with significant track time on the first motor... so what do you think you will gain from this upgrade - a longer maintenance interval?


ETA: I did a search, it looks like you put 80,000+ miles on your first motor right? Does WCCH offer a 2 year / XXXX miles warranty for the proven upgrade?

Last edited by Random84; 12-20-2012 at 06:51 PM.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:45 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Mookster
Do you work for Quick as an aSSistant?
No. Resulting name calling now, just because you failed to get the point of the first post in this thread
Old 12-20-2012, 06:46 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by random84
it's quick's thread - i was hoping he'd do the leg work since he started this thread to show us how successful solid valves are.

i just don't think "ah ha! Someone's been selling stainless valves for years!" is much of a revelation in the context this thread was presented. This thread is actually kind of a joke, imho when we realize there's a total void of actual data.

I'd actually love to see long-term results with solid valves and bronze guides (or solid and oem guides) - hopefully others will have that information in the future. I'd love to see a legitimate, 100% fix for every person who wants to be past this whole thing and as more people get more miles on their solid valve setups hopefully the perfection is preserved. But right now i see a bunch of hand-waving saying "this is it, we're all saved!" because someone posted a link to a vendor's advertisement circa 2007?

The short of it is, although i expect solid stainless valves to have a superior record eventually - there's still no guarantee that success will be from actually "fixing" an as-of-yet agreed upon cause, as opposed to just replacing oem parts with a better band aid (solid valves being less prone to shear than hollow stem). It wasn't just a year ago everyone knew the hollow valve itself was the problem. Then maybe those guides are coming from the factory that way? Hmmm, well, now maybe there's a pedestal or geometry issue?

The reason we have an active 1500-post "geometry" thread in this subforum should give some pause before we proclaime the science is settled on this. There's a lot of good information circulating around this forum, but i'm not sure anyone has it pegged 100% given what we know (except for quicksilver, of course).

But i digress, let's get back to quicksilver bitching and moaning about how i must be under significant emotional duress because i don't agree with him.
LOL... I agree sure would have nice for an $70K plus car to ever have any of these issues and then everyone have to go out spend time, effort, and money trying to resolve what GM should have in testing. Truly believe this is a quality control issue.

Last edited by FSTFRC; 12-20-2012 at 06:49 PM.
Old 12-20-2012, 06:48 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by FSTFRC
No. Resulting name calling now, just because you failed to get the point of the first post in this thread
I slipped on the keyboard man and hit caps
Old 12-20-2012, 06:54 PM
  #51  
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I stumbled on this during a search:

Originally Posted by Richard@WCCH
The primarly reason we use bronze valve guides is because GM will not sell the guides separately. Rather they will sell you an entire replacement head. The aftermarket parts supply only furnishes bronze alloy valve guides. I personally like the powdered metal valve guides the factory uses but the supplier does not sell piece meal to the public.
I lost that in all the back and forth, so it seems Richard (at least at the time) really felt that the valve itself was the issue.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...etproof-2.html
Old 12-20-2012, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mookster
I slipped on the keyboard man and hit caps
Cool no problem!
Old 12-20-2012, 07:02 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by FSTFRC
LOL... I agree sure would have nice for an $70K plus car to ever have any of these issues and then everyone have to go out spend time, effort, and money trying to resolve what GM should have in testing. Truly believe this is a quality control issue.
We are 100% in agreement here.

Although many of us argue over details (since we're all looking at it from the outside in) - this is truly a failure from the perspective of GM producing a quality, reliable halo product regardless of the ultimate cause of these issues.

A lot of people are getting burned on this and it's a damn shame.
Old 12-20-2012, 07:07 PM
  #54  
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thanks for all of the information Quick!! You seem like you have done a good deal of research on this issue and really know your stuff. sub'd
Old 12-20-2012, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Random84
It's Quick's thread - I was hoping he'd do the leg work since he started this thread to show us how successful solid valves are.

I just don't think "ah ha! someone's been selling stainless valves for years!" is much of a revelation in the context this thread was presented. This thread is actually kind of a joke, IMHO when we realize there's a total void of actual data. I believe data is out there - or at the least it will be - it's just not in this thread.

I'd actually LOVE to see long-term results with solid valves and bronze guides (or solid and OEM guides) - hopefully others will have that information in the future. I'd LOVE to see a legitimate, 100% fix for every person who wants to be past this whole thing and as more people get more miles on their solid valve setups hopefully the perfection is preserved. But right now I see a bunch of hand-waving saying "this is it, we're all saved!" because someone posted a link to a vendor's advertisement circa 2007?

The short of it is, although I expect solid stainless valves to have a superior record eventually - there's still no guarantee that success will be from actually "fixing" an as-of-yet agreed upon cause, as opposed to just replacing OEM parts with a better band aid (solid valves being less prone to shear than hollow stem). It wasn't just a year ago everyone knew the hollow valve itself was the problem. Then maybe those guides are coming from the factory that way? Hmmm, well, now maybe there's a pedestal or geometry issue?

The reason we have an active 1500-post "geometry" thread in this subforum should give some pause before we proclaime the science is settled on this. There's a lot of good information circulating around this forum, but I'm not sure anyone has it pegged 100% given what we know (except for Quicksilver, of course).

But I digress, let's get back to Quicksilver bitching and moaning about how I must be under significant emotional duress because I don't agree with him.
Looks to me like you're the one doing the "bitching and moaning" from your statements in "blue" above.

You have no dog in this fight. You're just here. Wagering nothing. You have nothing to lose. The rest of us do.

For people like yourself, who don't own Z06s, and like to theorize and offer your "input" in these discussions, when your position turns out wrong, with your "notions" as to just what is what with regard to this matter, well then it cost you nothing.

However those of us who do own these cars, but who are misguided enough to embrace your thoughts and approach to this matter, when those positions turn out wrong, it will cost us money.

It's easy for you to sit there and talk when you have nothing to lose. It's easy for some of the others still in warranty, and/or racking up the miles on cruise control, to do the same. They ain't running much risk. Someone has their back if worst comes to worst. And then there is you. Nothing on the line, but doing a lot of talk nonetheless.

The rest of us, have money on the table. And following the beliefs of a man who has nothing to lose, with regard to this matter, can result in a cratered engine block.

So any Z06 owner, reading "Random's quotes", needs to keep the above in mind, and proceed accordingly.

Some of us have to act to protect ourselves against a broken valve. You, we'll you don't. You don't have any stock LS7 exhaust valves to break.

You have the "luxury" of theorizing and pontificating on this matter, because you have no LS7 to lose.... Not even a stock one. Let alone a modded one.

So whether or not you "don't agree with him", is meaningless. When you are ready to put your money where your mouth is, and put a completely out of warranty, with no prospects whatsoever of a free repair, LS7 based Z06 on a track, or a drag strip, with stock exhaust valves in it, then come back.

Few in here now, choose to continue to do it, because of this valve issue. Confused Garage, is one of the few people in here who has posted up documentation that he has done, and continues to do it. Howie has done it too, but now even he has decided to no longer roll the dice waiting for them to come up craps, pressing his luck, because he knows that the next LS7 motor he pops, will be on him. So he is taking steps to keep that from happening.

But you, well the next motor, won't be on you. You aren't taking any risk. So until then, all I see you doing is just talking at the poker table, while wagering nothing.

Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 12-24-2012 at 11:27 PM.
Old 12-20-2012, 07:43 PM
  #56  
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If its just a quality control issue, then why are the ZR1's having the same extreme guide wear problem ? ZR1 blocks don't have Z06 heads on them.
Old 12-20-2012, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ClarksZ06
If its just a quality control issue, then why are the ZR1's having the same extreme guide wear problem ? ZR1 blocks don't have Z06 heads on them.
Probably the same vendor did the LSA/LS9 heads as the LS7 heads would be my bet. It's a QC issue has to be it's to random

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Old 12-20-2012, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SSSUPRA
I just want to know how the hell everyone but me seems to be able to talk to richard?
I got him on the 3rd try and sent him 2 emails. I called him when he said he would be available in the second email.

It was worth the wait and he answered all my questions.

He also said they were going to be very busy for the next week or so as they are installing replacement CNC machines.


DH
Old 12-20-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Minkster
And after that (maybe a full race build)?
Rich

I gotta keep the motor untuned so I can run in the MODIFIED CLASS of the 2013 CORVETTE CHALLENGE, and hopefully repeat my 1st PLace Finish

I'm going to redo the heads with the WCCH valves and guides. And then I'm going to track it for 2 years. And if it doesn't blow up I will pull the heads and do it again

I got 30K miles and 2500 track miles and don't want a repeat of my backward slide into turn 8 at WSIR


DH
Old 12-20-2012, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Rich

I gotta keep the motor untuned so I can run in the MODIFIED CLASS of the 2013 CORVETTE CHALLENGE, and hopefully repeat my 1st PLace Finish

I'm going to redo the heads with the WCCH valves and guides. And then I'm going to track it for 2 years. And if it doesn't blow up I will pull the heads and do it again

I got 30K miles and 2500 track miles and don't want a repeat of my backward slide into turn 8 at WSIR


DH
Good for you Howie.

You have one in here implying that since you got 80K plus miles and track miles out of your last motor on the stock valves, that you should be able to get the same with this one.

Originally Posted by Random84
Just out of curiosity, how long did your stock LS7 go before it popped? I thought you had a few years and tens of thousands of miles with significant track time on the first motor... so what do you think you will gain from this upgrade - a longer maintenance interval?


ETA: I did a search, it looks like you put 80,000+ miles on your first motor right? Does WCCH offer a 2 year / XXXX miles warranty for the proven upgrade?
Of course if that turns out to not be the case, then it won't be him in the car during that "backward slide into turn 8 at WSIR" with his life on the line.

Folks thinking like that, are still talking the same "we don't know if they are a fix yet" talk, while you have your feet in during that backward slide, and praying that you don't get T boned.

You're going about this the right way Howie.

Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 12-20-2012 at 11:54 PM.


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