[Z06] Won't go into reverse sometimes!?!
02-07-2013, 05:45 PM
#21
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i've noticed occasionally the reverse gear will not go..... I have to move the car forward or let it roll back a little. I'm assuming this is a synchro issue? I do know that reverse is actually a synchronized gear on the c6z. Anyone else ever have this issue? Absolutely no other issues with the clutch or transmission. Is there an easy fix or adjustment?
02-09-2013, 01:35 AM
#23
Team Owner
Stock shifter or do you have a short shifter? I had issues with my short shifter at first but a little adjustment took care of issue
02-09-2013, 10:21 AM
#24
Heel & Toe
I'm having the same problem now with my '07. It has gotten to the point of not being worth driving the car as I end up with wrist pain from trying to muscle it into reverse. Forward gears OK except once on the highway when I couldn't shift into anything above third coming out of the toll booth until I pulled over and started over from first. I'm waiting for my mechanic to get done with a tranny job on another Z06 to bring mine in. Luckily, I'm still under an extended warranty. I'm kind of hoping (I think?) to upgrade to the T6060. Or is this not something to hope for?
02-09-2013, 04:18 PM
#26
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I'm going to replace the shifter and shift box next week. Worth a shot.
02-09-2013, 05:54 PM
#27
This has nothing to do with the master cylinder. It goes into all gears, moving or not, except reverse sometimes. I've noticed that if the car rolls back even a couple inches it goes right into reverse. Going forward a little or a lot doesn't help. It can be really annoying when you need to back into a parking spot and people are waiting behind you to pass.... you're sitting there trying to get the damn thing to go into reverse and it won't go!
One trick I've learned that works almost every time to prevent it from acting up (doesn't act up every time I try) is to move forward and instead of stopping, hit the brake hard to where the car would rock to a stop and let off before the backward rock stops.... this causes the car to roll back an inch or two at least and it goes right in. Figured I'd share with anyone else who has this issue.
I'm going to have it checked out and if it's a big job I'll replace the whole transmission from a low-mileage car vs messing with the risk of causing other issues from a dissassembly.
One trick I've learned that works almost every time to prevent it from acting up (doesn't act up every time I try) is to move forward and instead of stopping, hit the brake hard to where the car would rock to a stop and let off before the backward rock stops.... this causes the car to roll back an inch or two at least and it goes right in. Figured I'd share with anyone else who has this issue.
I'm going to have it checked out and if it's a big job I'll replace the whole transmission from a low-mileage car vs messing with the risk of causing other issues from a dissassembly.
Here's how I would diagnose what is going on as I JUST went through this all:
1) Disassemble the shifter and make sure the locking bolt that connects the shifter mech. to the linkage rod (the one with a crescent shape cut out) is real tight.
2) Make sure the neutral pin is in and LOCKING the shifter in neutral when you do step 3 below. If you do not have a neutral pin the use an allen wrench of appropriate size to keep the shifter LOCKED TIGHT. This helps CENTER the neutral position of the shifter mech. and shift box with the shifter rod.
3) Make sure the same linkage rod bolt is lining up PERFECTLY with the crescent and the crescent cut out is also PERFECTLY aligned with the connector so that from above it looks as if there is no visible crescent. It should look like an exact circle for the bolt.
4) Once aligned PERFECTLY then tighten the bolt with a little Blue Loctite. The Bolt should be torqued to 22 lb-ft but I had to do it tighter as it loosened too easily and recreated the problem. I did mine real tight as I never plan to remove it again.
5) Now loosen the 2 Torx bolts (also T40 size) bolts holding the shifter box to the tranny tunnel. Make sure the rubber triangle under the shift box is aligned in the slot on the tunnel.
6) Loosely tighten the T40 bolts enough to allow you to still maniuplate the shift box forward and backward. Then push the shifter box ALL the way backward toward rear of car and tighten somewhat tight.
7) Go for a quick drive after removing the neutral locking pin. If problem persists then loosen the 2 x T40 bolts again and place the neutral locking pin in while you adjust the shift box forward. Retighten and do again until you are happy.
This is how I did mine and now I have no reverse lockout problem.
If you still have a problem then either the clutch is not disengaging entirely to allow shifting into reverse or your reverse lockout solenoid took a ****. I doubt your clutch is not disengaging as you did not mention issues in other gears. You can test this on level ground with it in 1st gear and clutch pushed in. Then rev car to redline and if it creaps forward you are not disengaging the clutch all the way and may benefit from a new clutch master cylinder like the Tick Performance one. I doubt the reverse solenoid is out as I spoke with a local Vette performance shop that said they have NEVER seen a reverse solenoid go bad. Usually if the car's tranny was serviced they forgot to plug it back in. If it is not plugged in then you should be able to put it into reverse while the engine is OFF. If it only disengages the lockout with the engine ON then the solenoid works fine. If you can go far right and disengage the lockout but not shift UP into reverse then try what I outlined above in steps 1-7 as this was the problem I had. Also I would check the clutch fluid reservoir and do the Ranger trick to help assure your gunked up clutch fluid is not keeping your clutch from disengaging properly and preventing shifts.
Finally, if NONE of this helps then you probably do have a syncro or fork problem but I HIGHLY DOUBT that given you have a low mileage car. I know it seems weird that a few millimeters of misalignment can make a difference but it does. I think the linkage is such that a millimeter difference is magnified as the linkage and rods are manipulated in the tranny.
Good Luck,
C5Z06CE
Last edited by C5Z06CE; 02-09-2013 at 06:00 PM.
02-09-2013, 11:58 PM
#28
I'm not sure how it would be a problem either but a search a few years ago (maybe 2008) turned up several people who suggested the clutch fluid flush. That worked for my car and it will progressively get worse until I do another flush.
02-10-2013, 01:29 AM
#29
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C5Z06CE. Thank you for your detailed solution!! I'm going to try that this week when I have time. It's not the clutch or master cyl. It definitely seems like the linkage is off to me or there's a rear synchro issue - but it literally takes 1-2 inches rolling backwards and it pops right into reverse so I don't think it's the solenoid. Shift box adjustment seems like a no-brainer to rule out whether the trans needs internal work. The clutch works fine all the time. With the cam in the car it could very well have loosened something in the shift linkage from the vibrations. 
02-13-2013, 08:32 AM
#30
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Anyone have a good source to buy a new shift box for a decent price? I pulled the console and adjusted the shifter (which actually helped a LOT on the ease of shifting and getting the car to go into Reverse almost every time now) but I noticed the O-ring on the output shaft of the shift box was on the shaft and not in the box where it should be. I spoke to Rick at T56 Transmission (supporting vendor) and he said that was common and not a big deal.... however the output shaft does have wobble and about 1/16" of play in it - which it should not. When I wedge a screwdriver next to it to keep it straight and eliminate up/down and side/side play, it shifts perfectly. Apparently the shift box is needing replacement.
Anyone know the part number? I hear the factory shifter from GM comes with the box?
Anyone know the part number? I hear the factory shifter from GM comes with the box?
09-09-2015, 12:47 AM
#32
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Anyone have a good source to buy a new shift box for a decent price? I pulled the console and adjusted the shifter (which actually helped a LOT on the ease of shifting and getting the car to go into Reverse almost every time now) but I noticed the O-ring on the output shaft of the shift box was on the shaft and not in the box where it should be. I spoke to Rick at T56 Transmission (supporting vendor) and he said that was common and not a big deal.... however the output shaft does have wobble and about 1/16" of play in it - which it should not. When I wedge a screwdriver next to it to keep it straight and eliminate up/down and side/side play, it shifts perfectly. Apparently the shift box is needing replacement.
Anyone know the part number? I hear the factory shifter from GM comes with the box?
Anyone know the part number? I hear the factory shifter from GM comes with the box?
Sorry to bring this thread back, but I'm having the same issue. It wont go in reverse. If the car goes black slightly it goes in reverse perfect. By any chance did you find the issue?
09-13-2015, 04:48 PM
#34
Good news
I had the same problem.
So I logged on to my trusty Corvette Forum. After reading all the problems and cures I chose the easy one first.
I was able to get my hand to the top of the M6 Tranny and found the solenoid and wire. I unplugged the wire, inspected it with a mirror, found no issues and plugged it back in.
Problem solved. Must have been a bad connection. I am thinking now, I should have put Die-electric grease in it while it was off.
Oh well, next time, if it fails again.
Thanks for the info, Corvette Forum members.
So I logged on to my trusty Corvette Forum. After reading all the problems and cures I chose the easy one first.
I was able to get my hand to the top of the M6 Tranny and found the solenoid and wire. I unplugged the wire, inspected it with a mirror, found no issues and plugged it back in.
Problem solved. Must have been a bad connection. I am thinking now, I should have put Die-electric grease in it while it was off.
Oh well, next time, if it fails again.
Thanks for the info, Corvette Forum members.
09-13-2015, 11:49 PM
#35
Drifting
When it does go into reverse is it real hard to get it in reverse? if so try replacing this fuse under the hood.
05-29-2017, 02:48 PM
#36
Drifting
Steve
07-05-2017, 10:48 AM
#37
Instructor
The photos don't work for me.
Can someone tell me where this fuse is, I'm having trouble getting into reverse.
I will go through all of the above when I get some time.
Thanks in advance.
Can someone tell me where this fuse is, I'm having trouble getting into reverse.
I will go through all of the above when I get some time.
Thanks in advance.
07-05-2017, 03:13 PM
#38
Drifting
It's in the fuse box under the hood on my 07 Z. 25 amp #13 I believe?
Steve
Steve
Last edited by C2Racer; 07-05-2017 at 08:28 PM.
