[Z06] Is it safe to run the 1/4 mile without ABS fuse?
#1
Is it safe to run the 1/4 mile without ABS fuse?
I borrowed a set of 17 inch c5z06 wheels/tires for my c6z06 for the track. Shortly after putting them on, the tire pressure light came on. The car wouldn't allow me to set it to competitive mode and my times greatly suffered. Someone suggested to pull the ABS fuse and when I did I got these:
Service traction control system
Service Active handling system
Service ABS system
Service tire monitor system
I drove it around a little and it didn't go into limp mode or anything and the car felt fine. Are there any consequences to driving and racing the car like this? Thanks in advance.
Service traction control system
Service Active handling system
Service ABS system
Service tire monitor system
I drove it around a little and it didn't go into limp mode or anything and the car felt fine. Are there any consequences to driving and racing the car like this? Thanks in advance.
#2
Racer
I borrowed a set of 17 inch c5z06 wheels/tires for my c6z06 for the track. Shortly after putting them on, the tire pressure light came on. The car wouldn't allow me to set it to competitive mode and my times greatly suffered. Someone suggested to pull the ABS fuse and when I did I got these:
Service traction control system
Service Active handling system
Service ABS system
Service tire monitor system
I drove it around a little and it didn't go into limp mode or anything and the car felt fine. Are there any consequences to driving and racing the car like this? Thanks in advance.
Service traction control system
Service Active handling system
Service ABS system
Service tire monitor system
I drove it around a little and it didn't go into limp mode or anything and the car felt fine. Are there any consequences to driving and racing the car like this? Thanks in advance.
#3
I tried unhooking the battery with the ABS fuse in place to reset it and the tire monitor pressure light went off for a while, but I was still unable to get it in competitive mode.
#4
Supporting Vendor
No need to remove the fuse as the car will run exactly the same with only just turning off the traction control.
#5
Melting Slicks
#9
When I went to the track with stock tires, I shaved a half second off my quarter mile time putting it in competitive mode as opposed to running with just the traction control off. There was a noticeable difference.
#10
Pro
Member Since: May 2012
Location: Weirton West Virginia
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Yep, that was me. I'm heading up again Thursday.....
When I went to the track with stock tires, I shaved a half second off my quarter mile time putting it in competitive mode as opposed to running with just the traction control off. There was a noticeable difference.
When I went to the track with stock tires, I shaved a half second off my quarter mile time putting it in competitive mode as opposed to running with just the traction control off. There was a noticeable difference.
I run with traction control off and have no issues.
#11
Oh yeah? That's interesting... I thought I read somewhere that stability control will apply break pressure to any wheel that begins to slip, but I could be wrong. If this is true, I would think between the launch and 3 shifts, my 1/4 time would suffer.
#12
Supporting Vendor
Yep, that was me. I'm heading up again Thursday.....
When I went to the track with stock tires, I shaved a half second off my quarter mile time putting it in competitive mode as opposed to running with just the traction control off. There was a noticeable difference.
When I went to the track with stock tires, I shaved a half second off my quarter mile time putting it in competitive mode as opposed to running with just the traction control off. There was a noticeable difference.
I've got several thousand passes on my car and there is no difference between just turning TC off vs having everything off that'll affect your ET in any way. When you're able to produce timeslips from back to back passes showing very similar 60ft times but noticeably better ETs you might have a stronger argument but until then...
#14
I can't activate comp mode with the tire pressure light on...
#15
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16,555
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I think you are confused by the nomenclature. When you push the button, you are not adding anything. The nannies are active by default. You can de-activate them (aka turn off the nannies) with the button during an ignition cycle. Comp mode is desirable for road racing, autocross, etc, where low tire pressure is a detriment to handling, but not necessary or justifiable for drag racing.
#16
I think you are confused by the nomenclature. When you push the button, you are not adding anything. The nannies are active by default. You can de-activate them (aka turn off the nannies) with the button during an ignition cycle. Comp mode is desirable for road racing, autocross, etc, where low tire pressure is a detriment to handling, but not necessary or justifiable for drag racing.
#19
This is what really confuses me and makes me think AH is hurting my ET since it is applying the breaks on every shift:
“Competitive Driving Mode” (TS-Off and AH-On in its less aggressive form); DIC message is set. Entered via two pushes of the button. “Competitive Driving Mode allows the driver to have full control of the rear wheels while the Active Handling System helps maintain directional control of the vehicle by selective brake application.” [source Owner’s Manual p. 4-12]
EDIT:
After reading some threads from "Ranger," I have a much better understanding. Thanks again for the help
“Competitive Driving Mode” (TS-Off and AH-On in its less aggressive form); DIC message is set. Entered via two pushes of the button. “Competitive Driving Mode allows the driver to have full control of the rear wheels while the Active Handling System helps maintain directional control of the vehicle by selective brake application.” [source Owner’s Manual p. 4-12]
EDIT:
After reading some threads from "Ranger," I have a much better understanding. Thanks again for the help
Last edited by stealth1281; 10-03-2013 at 01:43 PM.
#20
Le Mans Master
AH only is invoked when the car gets a little sideways.
If you are on a 1/4 run and you get sideways, you need to lift! AH will have already tried to correct the car for you though provided you were that far sideways. A few inch sideways should not have AH intervening.
What is likely happening on the shifts is torque management is cutting power slightly if you are spinning a lot on the shifts, not AH. TC MAY as well, but if you are spinning badly you are likely overpowering the TC anyhow...another reason to just lift as your time will be poor anyway. No sense beating on the car for a bad pass, right?
As for the tire pressure light, you have 2 choices. 1) swap wheels at the track and you will be fine all day. 2)Get Tire pressure monitoring sensors (TPMS) for the drag wheels, BUT you'll have to also have a TPMS reset device to reset all 4 TPMS when you put the rears on AND when you swap back to your daily driver wheels out back.
Ron
If you are on a 1/4 run and you get sideways, you need to lift! AH will have already tried to correct the car for you though provided you were that far sideways. A few inch sideways should not have AH intervening.
What is likely happening on the shifts is torque management is cutting power slightly if you are spinning a lot on the shifts, not AH. TC MAY as well, but if you are spinning badly you are likely overpowering the TC anyhow...another reason to just lift as your time will be poor anyway. No sense beating on the car for a bad pass, right?
As for the tire pressure light, you have 2 choices. 1) swap wheels at the track and you will be fine all day. 2)Get Tire pressure monitoring sensors (TPMS) for the drag wheels, BUT you'll have to also have a TPMS reset device to reset all 4 TPMS when you put the rears on AND when you swap back to your daily driver wheels out back.
Ron