[Z06] LS7 Engine pulled. Time to rebuild and add MODS!
01-26-2014, 05:59 PM
#1
LS7 Engine pulled. Time to rebuild and add MODS!
Ok so over the last 2 days I have successfully pulled the engine out of my JSB 08 Z. The car was mostly stock before the rebuild. I am planning a full build over the next 30 days. Spring is coming and I want it done in time. I am going to list the things I plan on doing now and I have a 10k limit to stick to. ( all my labor is free! 
) So if you have some constructive recommendations I am all 
I had low compression on Number 1 cylinder so that is the reason for all this. After I pulled the engine I did a leak down again and could hear air weeping past my exhaust valves so I will be sending the heads off to be rebuilt at WCCH. I have heard good things about them. Does anyone know of any other places that are comparable in quality?
So here is my list of to Do's!
pistons...forged or not is the question...also what manufacturer?
Rings.
bearings.
timing set...Cloyes Gear 9-3667TX3 - Cloyes Race Billet True Roller
cam...either the widow-r or the lingenfelter gt19?
Heads...WCCH stage 2 port with Manley 221435 Dual spring kit
intake? Should I change it? is it worth it?
LG 1 3/4 LT headers and borla exhaust
Callaway Honker CAi
Mcleod RST Street twin clutch? worth it? better for the money?
I plan on using my stock rockers,push rods and lifters. They have 90k on them but look good.
I would appreciate thoughts on everything. I havent decided between cams yet. The gt19 is alot more steetable than the widow R but the widow R makes some impressive numbers and sounds wicked. I also would like thoughts on the intake. Is it worth swapping out or not? How about the TB?
) So if you have some constructive recommendations I am all I had low compression on Number 1 cylinder so that is the reason for all this. After I pulled the engine I did a leak down again and could hear air weeping past my exhaust valves so I will be sending the heads off to be rebuilt at WCCH. I have heard good things about them. Does anyone know of any other places that are comparable in quality?
So here is my list of to Do's!
pistons...forged or not is the question...also what manufacturer?
Rings.
bearings.
timing set...Cloyes Gear 9-3667TX3 - Cloyes Race Billet True Roller
cam...either the widow-r or the lingenfelter gt19?
Heads...WCCH stage 2 port with Manley 221435 Dual spring kit
intake? Should I change it? is it worth it?
LG 1 3/4 LT headers and borla exhaust
Callaway Honker CAi
Mcleod RST Street twin clutch? worth it? better for the money?
I plan on using my stock rockers,push rods and lifters. They have 90k on them but look good.
I would appreciate thoughts on everything. I havent decided between cams yet. The gt19 is alot more steetable than the widow R but the widow R makes some impressive numbers and sounds wicked. I also would like thoughts on the intake. Is it worth swapping out or not? How about the TB?
01-26-2014, 06:21 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Looking good...I would NOT use the same lifters with 90k on them, no matter how good they look...You are doing a whole new build, do not skimp on new lifters, new push rods, and rocker upgrade. Either comp or CHE...
01-26-2014, 06:38 PM
#4
I have a procharged 383 LT4 in my 92 that I just finished. That car is a monster! haha and ofcourse I didnt skimp...
Teaser video? More car ****? HAHA
I hope my Z is faster! lol
01-26-2014, 07:19 PM
#5
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You won't be able to use stock pushrods with those wcch heads as decking is part of it. Plus with a rather high lift cam like the one you listed, it's a must to check p2v clearance.
Also I've heard mixed things on mcleod clutches. I chose a ram dyad for my car, but also drove my buddies c6z with a act twin and was actually very impressed with the act clutch over my dyad
Also I've heard mixed things on mcleod clutches. I chose a ram dyad for my car, but also drove my buddies c6z with a act twin and was actually very impressed with the act clutch over my dyad
Last edited by RedC5Z; 01-26-2014 at 07:26 PM.
01-26-2014, 07:43 PM
#6
You won't be able to use stock pushrods with those wcch heads as decking is part of it. Plus with a rather high lift cam like the one you listed, it's a must to check p2v clearance.
Also I've heard mixed things on mcleod clutches. I chose a ram dyad for my car, but also drove my buddies c6z with a act twin and was actually very impressed with the act clutch over my dyad
Also I've heard mixed things on mcleod clutches. I chose a ram dyad for my car, but also drove my buddies c6z with a act twin and was actually very impressed with the act clutch over my dyad
01-26-2014, 07:57 PM
#7
CAM: With a 7000 RPM redline, I would recommend what is called a 'gentle' lobe. This will probably not be found on high lift stuff, which you may or may not even need/use. Others have more experience with the lobe issue so I will leave it to them to chime in. Or talk to a vendor that understands what a gentle lobe is. IMHO you don't want to buy a cam on power specs (or sound), you want to buy a cam that won't beat your valvetrain (including cam and lifters) to an early death.
ROCKERS: Since there may be a wear pattern on your existing rockers, particularly the exhausts (if the guides are loose), I'd recommend a very close inspection and replacement if any type of wear pattern is observed. You may need some magnification to really see the extent. Trunnion upgrades, IMHO, are a waste of money and just another potential problem (witness the occasional broken circlip).
PUSHRODS: If you're going to 'heavy up' the valvetrain (solid valves) and spend time up near redline, I'd use stiffer pushrods. I assume that a chrome moly version, still in .080 thickness, would be stiffer than the OEM units (4130 steel vs 1010, IIRC). Otherwise, you don't have to have the heads milled unless you want more compression.
PTV is not an issue... the OEM setup has a quarter inch clearance. But if it were me I'd say away from the high lift (over .650) super duration stuff just on principle, unless you want a high RPM drag car with poor bottom end.
LIFTERS: With a new cam you might want new lifters... depends on how the old ones look (wheel). I've always been somewhat fascinated by the units forum vendor Brian Tooley sells, you might take a look at those. Otherwise, if I were buying, I'd probably get the Caddy lifters (supposed to be a tad better at high RPM, but not necessarily made better -- it's GM, after all.... ). The other aftermarket stuff is probably no better than stock, unless perhaps when you get into the real high dollar stuff ($500+) which is probably overkill for the average modded LS7.
.
ROCKERS: Since there may be a wear pattern on your existing rockers, particularly the exhausts (if the guides are loose), I'd recommend a very close inspection and replacement if any type of wear pattern is observed. You may need some magnification to really see the extent. Trunnion upgrades, IMHO, are a waste of money and just another potential problem (witness the occasional broken circlip).
PUSHRODS: If you're going to 'heavy up' the valvetrain (solid valves) and spend time up near redline, I'd use stiffer pushrods. I assume that a chrome moly version, still in .080 thickness, would be stiffer than the OEM units (4130 steel vs 1010, IIRC). Otherwise, you don't have to have the heads milled unless you want more compression.
PTV is not an issue... the OEM setup has a quarter inch clearance. But if it were me I'd say away from the high lift (over .650) super duration stuff just on principle, unless you want a high RPM drag car with poor bottom end.
LIFTERS: With a new cam you might want new lifters... depends on how the old ones look (wheel). I've always been somewhat fascinated by the units forum vendor Brian Tooley sells, you might take a look at those. Otherwise, if I were buying, I'd probably get the Caddy lifters (supposed to be a tad better at high RPM, but not necessarily made better -- it's GM, after all.... ). The other aftermarket stuff is probably no better than stock, unless perhaps when you get into the real high dollar stuff ($500+) which is probably overkill for the average modded LS7.
.
Last edited by Mark2009; 01-26-2014 at 08:07 PM.
01-26-2014, 08:05 PM
#8
Team Owner
Ok so over the last 2 days I have successfully pulled the engine out of my JSB 08 Z. The car was mostly stock before the rebuild. I am planning a full build over the next 30 days. Spring is coming and I want it done in time. I am going to list the things I plan on doing now and I have a 10k limit to stick to. ( all my labor is free! ) So if you have some constructive recommendations I am all
I had low compression on Number 1 cylinder so that is the reason for all this. After I pulled the engine I did a leak down again and could hear air weeping past my exhaust valves so I will be sending the heads off to be rebuilt at WCCH. I have heard good things about them. Does anyone know of any other places that are comparable in quality?
So here is my list of to Do's!
pistons...forged or not is the question...also what manufacturer?
Rings.
bearings.
timing set...Cloyes Gear 9-3667TX3 - Cloyes Race Billet True Roller
cam...either the widow-r or the lingenfelter gt19?
Heads...WCCH stage 2 port with Manley 221435 Dual spring kit
intake? Should I change it? is it worth it?
LG 1 3/4 LT headers and borla exhaust
Callaway Honker CAi
Mcleod RST Street twin clutch? worth it? better for the money?
I plan on using my stock rockers,push rods and lifters. They have 90k on them but look good.
) So if you have some constructive recommendations I am all I had low compression on Number 1 cylinder so that is the reason for all this. After I pulled the engine I did a leak down again and could hear air weeping past my exhaust valves so I will be sending the heads off to be rebuilt at WCCH. I have heard good things about them. Does anyone know of any other places that are comparable in quality?
So here is my list of to Do's!
pistons...forged or not is the question...also what manufacturer?
Rings.
bearings.
timing set...Cloyes Gear 9-3667TX3 - Cloyes Race Billet True Roller
cam...either the widow-r or the lingenfelter gt19?
Heads...WCCH stage 2 port with Manley 221435 Dual spring kit
intake? Should I change it? is it worth it?
LG 1 3/4 LT headers and borla exhaust
Callaway Honker CAi
Mcleod RST Street twin clutch? worth it? better for the money?
I plan on using my stock rockers,push rods and lifters. They have 90k on them but look good.
He usually uses the Brian Tooley spring kit. Why would you be going with the Manley? Good luck on your build, sounds awesome
01-26-2014, 08:14 PM
#9
CAM: With a 7000 RPM redline, I would recommend what is called a 'gentle' lobe. This will probably not be found on high lift stuff, which you may or may not even need/use. Others have more experience with the lobe issue so I will leave it to them to chime in. Or talk to a vendor that understands what a gentle lobe is. IMHO you don't want to buy a cam on power specs (or sound), you want to buy a cam that won't beat your valvetrain (including cam and lifters) to an early death.
ROCKERS: Since there may be a wear pattern on your existing rockers, particularly the exhausts (if the guides are loose), I'd recommend a very close inspection and replacement if any type of wear pattern is observed. You may need some magnification to really see the extent. Trunnion upgrades, IMHO, are a waste of money and just another potential problem (witness the occasional broken circlip).
PUSHRODS: If you're going to 'heavy up' the valvetrain (solid valves) and spend time up near redline, I'd use stiffer pushrods. I assume that a chrome moly version, still in .080 thickness, would be stiffer than the OEM units (4130 steel vs 1010, IIRC). Otherwise, you don't have to have the heads milled unless you want more compression.
PTV is not an issue... the OEM setup has a quarter inch clearance. But if it were me I'd say away from the high lift (over .650) super duration stuff just on principle, unless you want a high RPM drag car with poor bottom end.
LIFTERS: With a new cam you might want new lifters... depends on how the old ones look (wheel). I've always been somewhat fascinated by the units forum vendor Brian Tooley sells, you might take a look at those. Otherwise, if I were buying, I'd probably get the Caddy lifters (supposed to be a tad better at high RPM, but not necessarily made better -- it's GM, after all.... ). The other aftermarket stuff is probably no better than stock, unless perhaps when you get into the real high dollar stuff ($500+) which is probably overkill for the average modded LS7.
.
ROCKERS: Since there may be a wear pattern on your existing rockers, particularly the exhausts (if the guides are loose), I'd recommend a very close inspection and replacement if any type of wear pattern is observed. You may need some magnification to really see the extent. Trunnion upgrades, IMHO, are a waste of money and just another potential problem (witness the occasional broken circlip).
PUSHRODS: If you're going to 'heavy up' the valvetrain (solid valves) and spend time up near redline, I'd use stiffer pushrods. I assume that a chrome moly version, still in .080 thickness, would be stiffer than the OEM units (4130 steel vs 1010, IIRC). Otherwise, you don't have to have the heads milled unless you want more compression.
PTV is not an issue... the OEM setup has a quarter inch clearance. But if it were me I'd say away from the high lift (over .650) super duration stuff just on principle, unless you want a high RPM drag car with poor bottom end.
LIFTERS: With a new cam you might want new lifters... depends on how the old ones look (wheel). I've always been somewhat fascinated by the units forum vendor Brian Tooley sells, you might take a look at those. Otherwise, if I were buying, I'd probably get the Caddy lifters (supposed to be a tad better at high RPM, but not necessarily made better -- it's GM, after all.... ). The other aftermarket stuff is probably no better than stock, unless perhaps when you get into the real high dollar stuff ($500+) which is probably overkill for the average modded LS7.
.
Thanks! This is the stuff I love to hear! Knowledgable people with great advice!
This is my first LS7 build. Actually this is my first LS build. Its going to be challenging and I want it spot on before she goes together.
The widow R cam is pretty agressive. What are some more streetable options guys? This is a street car, not a race car!
Although, naturally, I want alot more power out of it! lol
01-26-2014, 08:19 PM
#10
Drifting
Thanks and manley is what was offered as options on his site? I will call and talk to him tomorrow.
Thanks! This is the stuff I love to hear! Knowledgable people with great advice!
This is my first LS7 build. Actually this is my first LS build. Its going to be challenging and I want it spot on before she goes together.
The widow R cam is pretty agressive. What are some more streetable options guys? This is a street car, not a race car!
Although, naturally, I want alot more power out of it! lol
Thanks! This is the stuff I love to hear! Knowledgable people with great advice!
This is my first LS7 build. Actually this is my first LS build. Its going to be challenging and I want it spot on before she goes together.
The widow R cam is pretty agressive. What are some more streetable options guys? This is a street car, not a race car!
Although, naturally, I want alot more power out of it! lol
01-26-2014, 08:21 PM
#11
01-26-2014, 08:24 PM
#12
01-26-2014, 08:29 PM
#13
01-26-2014, 08:38 PM
#14
Team Owner
Do lifters and new trays while it is apart. They are too cheap not to do.
Run the RXT, no reason unless budget calls for it to run RST.
Run the RXT, no reason unless budget calls for it to run RST.
01-26-2014, 08:44 PM
#15
Keeping in mind, in all fairness, that this is only one vendor out of several here....
Also of interest: http://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomete...ver-stock.html
.
Tick is back on CF!
Some of you may know who and what Tick Performance is and the services we offer the Corvette Community.
Some of you may not though. For those that don't here is our website and a Google search will show that we've been in business for over 10 years going on 11 now and make very high performance and high quality parts for late model GM vehicles.
I will be the only person from Tick that posts on CF as it's the only active account we have here so please forward all questions to me if you have one.
Glad to be back guys!
Some of you may know who and what Tick Performance is and the services we offer the Corvette Community.
Some of you may not though. For those that don't here is our website and a Google search will show that we've been in business for over 10 years going on 11 now and make very high performance and high quality parts for late model GM vehicles.
I will be the only person from Tick that posts on CF as it's the only active account we have here so please forward all questions to me if you have one.
Glad to be back guys!
.
Last edited by Mark2009; 01-26-2014 at 08:49 PM.
01-26-2014, 09:03 PM
#17
Intermediate
Member Since: Jan 2013
Posts: 35
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Mods were fast102/102, kooks 1-7/8, haltech
01-26-2014, 10:44 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Calloway CAI
My experience is that the Calloway CAI can cause severe surge in 2008 Z06 MAFs, making it difficult to find a tune that will be acceptable. This surge appeared at highway speeds and low throttle settings. As a result of my issues, Calloway provided their inlet modification plate, which makes their CAI less of a cold air inlet than advertised. Yes, it still makes good power, but is not truly a CAI any more, as the cold air is blocked off. Do not expect any help from Calloway in solving your problems as they will not even reply.
After spending $550 for a retune with a forum-recommended tuner and a xxxx tech inlet I still have less horsepower and torque than I had with the previous tune and the Calloway Honker CAI.
After spending $550 for a retune with a forum-recommended tuner and a xxxx tech inlet I still have less horsepower and torque than I had with the previous tune and the Calloway Honker CAI.
Ok so over the last 2 days I have successfully pulled the engine out of my JSB 08 Z. The car was mostly stock before the rebuild. I am planning a full build over the next 30 days. Spring is coming and I want it done in time. I am going to list the things I plan on doing now and I have a 10k limit to stick to. ( all my labor is free! ) So if you have some constructive recommendations I am all
I had low compression on Number 1 cylinder so that is the reason for all this. After I pulled the engine I did a leak down again and could hear air weeping past my exhaust valves so I will be sending the heads off to be rebuilt at WCCH. I have heard good things about them. Does anyone know of any other places that are comparable in quality?
So here is my list of to Do's!
pistons...forged or not is the question...also what manufacturer?
Rings.
bearings.
timing set...Cloyes Gear 9-3667TX3 - Cloyes Race Billet True Roller
cam...either the widow-r or the lingenfelter gt19?
Heads...WCCH stage 2 port with Manley 221435 Dual spring kit
intake? Should I change it? is it worth it?
LG 1 3/4 LT headers and borla exhaust
Callaway Honker CAi
Mcleod RST Street twin clutch? worth it? better for the money?
I plan on using my stock rockers,push rods and lifters. They have 90k on them but look good.
I would appreciate thoughts on everything. I havent decided between cams yet. The gt19 is alot more steetable than the widow R but the widow R makes some impressive numbers and sounds wicked. I also would like thoughts on the intake. Is it worth swapping out or not? How about the TB?
) So if you have some constructive recommendations I am all I had low compression on Number 1 cylinder so that is the reason for all this. After I pulled the engine I did a leak down again and could hear air weeping past my exhaust valves so I will be sending the heads off to be rebuilt at WCCH. I have heard good things about them. Does anyone know of any other places that are comparable in quality?
So here is my list of to Do's!
pistons...forged or not is the question...also what manufacturer?
Rings.
bearings.
timing set...Cloyes Gear 9-3667TX3 - Cloyes Race Billet True Roller
cam...either the widow-r or the lingenfelter gt19?
Heads...WCCH stage 2 port with Manley 221435 Dual spring kit
intake? Should I change it? is it worth it?
LG 1 3/4 LT headers and borla exhaust
Callaway Honker CAi
Mcleod RST Street twin clutch? worth it? better for the money?
I plan on using my stock rockers,push rods and lifters. They have 90k on them but look good.
I would appreciate thoughts on everything. I havent decided between cams yet. The gt19 is alot more steetable than the widow R but the widow R makes some impressive numbers and sounds wicked. I also would like thoughts on the intake. Is it worth swapping out or not? How about the TB?
01-26-2014, 10:56 PM
#19
Generally speaking, and IMHO, CAI's are snake oil for the Z06. At road speed it will get outside air from the little nose hood scoop. For around-town driving (or drag racing) the Halltech beehive will probably solve a lot (but not all) of the heat issues.
Otherwise, on most or many aftermarket air intakes, fooling the MAF is what gets the advertised horsepower increase (leans out the air/fuel ratio). You can get about 90% of that with the stock air intake and a tune. Any so-called ram air effect, well, if you can really get it without causing other problems (overheating from a loss in radiator airflow, or surging due to MAF turbulence), then I'm sure it will help. At high speed.
.
Otherwise, on most or many aftermarket air intakes, fooling the MAF is what gets the advertised horsepower increase (leans out the air/fuel ratio). You can get about 90% of that with the stock air intake and a tune. Any so-called ram air effect, well, if you can really get it without causing other problems (overheating from a loss in radiator airflow, or surging due to MAF turbulence), then I'm sure it will help. At high speed.
.
Last edited by Mark2009; 01-26-2014 at 11:03 PM.
01-27-2014, 12:37 AM
#20
Team Owner
DH