[Z06] Clearance gearbox cooler lines
02-09-2014, 09:52 AM
#1
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Clearance gearbox cooler lines
Hi guy`s
I had installed the longtube headers from LG and have two worries.
It is all about clearance at two points.
On the left side(drivers side), the header is passing the brake fluid line very close.
Could the heath from the header influence the brake fluid?
The second point is were the oil lines from the diff pas the bell housing and the headers.
Between the headers and the lines are only a few millimeters of space.(to see on the picture)
Does other people has the same "problems" and if so what did you do about it?
Thanks for your advice.
Grtz, Hans
I had installed the longtube headers from LG and have two worries.
It is all about clearance at two points.
On the left side(drivers side), the header is passing the brake fluid line very close.
Could the heath from the header influence the brake fluid?
The second point is were the oil lines from the diff pas the bell housing and the headers.
Between the headers and the lines are only a few millimeters of space.(to see on the picture)
Does other people has the same "problems" and if so what did you do about it?
Thanks for your advice.
Grtz, Hans
02-09-2014, 01:33 PM
#3
Drifting
gearbox cooler lines
Clearance of the gearbox cooler lines is a problem with aftermarket headers.
The lines are slightly bendable. Use a small block of wood with a grove carved in it to fit around the line, you can lightly hammer the wood block to slightly bend the tube closer to the bell housing for clearance.
Wrap the cooler line with header wrap and secure with stainless steel ties or safety wire.
Also I made a small bracket from a piece of stainless steel to move the lines closer to the block and raise them slightly.
The headers in the picture are 2 inch so clearance is more of a problem than with 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers.
You don't need much of an air gap, 1/4 to 1/2 inch is OK.
The starter is covered with a piece of KOOLMAT® good to 1000 degrees to protect the starter from heat soak.
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Same solution on the drivers side for the rear brake line. Wrap the line were it is in close proximity to the header tube with header wrap or some other form of insulating material.
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There is also a product, Heatmaster, that was developed by NASA that is rated at 2500 degrees. It is a stainless steel mat with some heat insulation inside that bolts to the bottom of the tunnel plate to help protect the torque tube and gearbox cooler lines from exhaust heat.
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Good luck.
Nice ARE dry sump installation!
The lines are slightly bendable. Use a small block of wood with a grove carved in it to fit around the line, you can lightly hammer the wood block to slightly bend the tube closer to the bell housing for clearance.
Wrap the cooler line with header wrap and secure with stainless steel ties or safety wire.
Also I made a small bracket from a piece of stainless steel to move the lines closer to the block and raise them slightly.
The headers in the picture are 2 inch so clearance is more of a problem than with 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers.
You don't need much of an air gap, 1/4 to 1/2 inch is OK.
The starter is covered with a piece of KOOLMAT® good to 1000 degrees to protect the starter from heat soak.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Same solution on the drivers side for the rear brake line. Wrap the line were it is in close proximity to the header tube with header wrap or some other form of insulating material.
[IMG]
[/IMG]There is also a product, Heatmaster, that was developed by NASA that is rated at 2500 degrees. It is a stainless steel mat with some heat insulation inside that bolts to the bottom of the tunnel plate to help protect the torque tube and gearbox cooler lines from exhaust heat.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Good luck.
Nice ARE dry sump installation!
02-09-2014, 04:14 PM
#5
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Great write up Wstaab.
I see that we went the same way with the brake lines.
I did not do anything with the diff oil cooler lines but will do the same that you did.
Instead of the heatmaster i took a 4mm stainless steel plate and bolted it to the aluminium plate.
The stainless steel plate is mounted with the shiny side to the exhaust to deflect the heat.
It is working very well i can say and it is cheap to make.
I will look if i can buy the heatmaster here in the Netherlands because that will work even better.
So thanks again for the write-up and pictures.
Grtz, Hans
I see that we went the same way with the brake lines.
I did not do anything with the diff oil cooler lines but will do the same that you did.
Instead of the heatmaster i took a 4mm stainless steel plate and bolted it to the aluminium plate.
The stainless steel plate is mounted with the shiny side to the exhaust to deflect the heat.
It is working very well i can say and it is cheap to make.
I will look if i can buy the heatmaster here in the Netherlands because that will work even better.
So thanks again for the write-up and pictures.
Grtz, Hans
02-09-2014, 04:44 PM
#6
Drifting
Great write up Wstaab.
I see that we went the same way with the brake lines.
I did not do anything with the diff oil cooler lines but will do the same that you did.
Instead of the heatmaster i took a 4mm stainless steel plate and bolted it to the aluminium plate.
The stainless steel plate is mounted with the shiny side to the exhaust to deflect the heat.
It is working very well i can say and it is cheap to make.
I will look if i can buy the heatmaster here in the Netherlands because that will work even better.
So thanks again for the write-up and pictures.
Grtz, Hans
I see that we went the same way with the brake lines.
I did not do anything with the diff oil cooler lines but will do the same that you did.
Instead of the heatmaster i took a 4mm stainless steel plate and bolted it to the aluminium plate.
The stainless steel plate is mounted with the shiny side to the exhaust to deflect the heat.
It is working very well i can say and it is cheap to make.
I will look if i can buy the heatmaster here in the Netherlands because that will work even better.
So thanks again for the write-up and pictures.
Grtz, Hans
We paint our tunnel plates with it.
We cure them with a radiant propane heater.
The side facing the heat source during curing shows a surface temp of 500 to 600 F. The opposite side measures 250 to 300 F. So heat insulation is good with this product.
It appears from the pictures you are using Penske shocks.
What spring rates are you using front and rear?
02-09-2014, 05:45 PM
#8
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Thanks for the heatmaster adres in Britain, i will get in contact with them.
The picture i used was not from my car but it looks the same as on my car.
I am driving after two valve failures now with a katech street attack engine.
I use Intraxx shocks who are made in Holland and Pfadt sway-bars.
The brakes are from Stop tech and there are a lot more of race goodies on the car.... ;-)
The picture i used was not from my car but it looks the same as on my car.
I am driving after two valve failures now with a katech street attack engine.
I use Intraxx shocks who are made in Holland and Pfadt sway-bars.
The brakes are from Stop tech and there are a lot more of race goodies on the car.... ;-)
02-09-2014, 06:45 PM
#9
Team Owner
I never wrapped anything and never had issues. Yes they are close, but even in 120F heat here in phoenix I never had issues. Obviously wrap them if you want and it may be better but they are fine.
02-09-2014, 09:17 PM
#10
Drifting
I burned through the thermal barrier layer on one of these after a weekend at Road Atlanta.
