[Z06] Upgrading:Cooling System
10-10-2014, 01:05 AM
#1
Supremacy 1 car at a time
Thread Starter
Upgrading:Cooling System
hola amigos,
well as many of you know now am moving forward on that F1X+spray setup and now I paid for my new long block, the problem is all about that cooling system am gonna run.
the idea is I would love to take my +1500 Z to work "sometimes" or maybe pick my son from school so I decided to discus this topic with the " helpful people in here " so first of all heres my review about my old cooling setup.
was running RD radiator with 160T wasn't bad but to be honest when I was running only my procharged the coolant was better than it was while adding the radiator and H/C kit. also I faced some issues with my DP big mouth cause the filter was hitting the radiator so I tried to cut the DP and fix it to set well.
what I want now is not facing the same problems also am looking for more coolant as much as I can since am living in Hellbox.
please do me a favour if you're gonna be unhelpful then don't post here cause I don't have a time to waste.
sorry for my weak english hope you guys understand what am saying up there.
best,
Mubarak.
well as many of you know now am moving forward on that F1X+spray setup and now I paid for my new long block, the problem is all about that cooling system am gonna run.
the idea is I would love to take my +1500 Z to work "sometimes" or maybe pick my son from school so I decided to discus this topic with the " helpful people in here " so first of all heres my review about my old cooling setup.
was running RD radiator with 160T wasn't bad but to be honest when I was running only my procharged the coolant was better than it was while adding the radiator and H/C kit. also I faced some issues with my DP big mouth cause the filter was hitting the radiator so I tried to cut the DP and fix it to set well.
what I want now is not facing the same problems also am looking for more coolant as much as I can since am living in Hellbox.
please do me a favour if you're gonna be unhelpful then don't post here cause I don't have a time to waste.
sorry for my weak english hope you guys understand what am saying up there.
best,
Mubarak.
Last edited by ProEFI; 10-10-2014 at 01:08 AM.
10-10-2014, 06:19 AM
#2
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
Posts: 4,404
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hola amigos,
well as many of you know now am moving forward on that F1X+spray setup and now I paid for my new long block, the problem is all about that cooling system am gonna run.
the idea is I would love to take my +1500 Z to work "sometimes" or maybe pick my son from school so I decided to discus this topic with the " helpful people in here " so first of all heres my review about my old cooling setup.
was running RD radiator with 160T wasn't bad but to be honest when I was running only my procharged the coolant was better than it was while adding the radiator and H/C kit. also I faced some issues with my DP big mouth cause the filter was hitting the radiator so I tried to cut the DP and fix it to set well.
what I want now is not facing the same problems also am looking for more coolant as much as I can since am living in Hellbox.
please do me a favour if you're gonna be unhelpful then don't post here cause I don't have a time to waste.
sorry for my weak english hope you guys understand what am saying up there.
best,
Mubarak.
well as many of you know now am moving forward on that F1X+spray setup and now I paid for my new long block, the problem is all about that cooling system am gonna run.
the idea is I would love to take my +1500 Z to work "sometimes" or maybe pick my son from school so I decided to discus this topic with the " helpful people in here " so first of all heres my review about my old cooling setup.
was running RD radiator with 160T wasn't bad but to be honest when I was running only my procharged the coolant was better than it was while adding the radiator and H/C kit. also I faced some issues with my DP big mouth cause the filter was hitting the radiator so I tried to cut the DP and fix it to set well.
what I want now is not facing the same problems also am looking for more coolant as much as I can since am living in Hellbox.
please do me a favour if you're gonna be unhelpful then don't post here cause I don't have a time to waste.
sorry for my weak english hope you guys understand what am saying up there.
best,
Mubarak.
10-10-2014, 08:21 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Fans
Not sure what you have for radiator fans now but I would suggest getting some dual ones. Most of the time the car is fine while driving along it is when it is stopped that issues usually arise. Also not sure what year your Z is but they switched water pumps in 2009 moving the water outlet to drivers side (giving more room for the TB/CAI) however the pulley was narrowed so that might not work for you.
10-10-2014, 11:00 AM
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16,555
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1,505 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
hola amigos,
well as many of you know now am moving forward on that F1X+spray setup and now I paid for my new long block, the problem is all about that cooling system am gonna run.
the idea is I would love to take my +1500 Z to work "sometimes" or maybe pick my son from school so I decided to discus this topic with the " helpful people in here " so first of all heres my review about my old cooling setup.
was running RD radiator with 160T wasn't bad but to be honest when I was running only my procharged the coolant was better than it was while adding the radiator and H/C kit. also I faced some issues with my DP big mouth cause the filter was hitting the radiator so I tried to cut the DP and fix it to set well.
what I want now is not facing the same problems also am looking for more coolant as much as I can since am living in Hellbox.
please do me a favour if you're gonna be unhelpful then don't post here cause I don't have a time to waste.
sorry for my weak english hope you guys understand what am saying up there.
best,
Mubarak.
well as many of you know now am moving forward on that F1X+spray setup and now I paid for my new long block, the problem is all about that cooling system am gonna run.
the idea is I would love to take my +1500 Z to work "sometimes" or maybe pick my son from school so I decided to discus this topic with the " helpful people in here " so first of all heres my review about my old cooling setup.
was running RD radiator with 160T wasn't bad but to be honest when I was running only my procharged the coolant was better than it was while adding the radiator and H/C kit. also I faced some issues with my DP big mouth cause the filter was hitting the radiator so I tried to cut the DP and fix it to set well.
what I want now is not facing the same problems also am looking for more coolant as much as I can since am living in Hellbox.
please do me a favour if you're gonna be unhelpful then don't post here cause I don't have a time to waste.
sorry for my weak english hope you guys understand what am saying up there.
best,
Mubarak.
You might as well delete this thread and start over with a new attitude.
10-10-2014, 11:28 AM
#5
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Harbor City California
Posts: 2,815
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533 Posts
I will give the OP the benifit of the doubt and go with the above mentioned sentence in bold as a simple miscommunication or difference in language's/culture's.
What radiator setup are you currently running? I saw above you mentioned the RD radiator, are you still running the RD?
Are you aware that there is waterless coolant you can run in place of your typical dexcool. They system needs to be completely flushed for the waterless coolant but we have seen some cooler temps on our extreme FI cars by switching to the waterless coolant. Just an idea you might concider researching.
What radiator setup are you currently running? I saw above you mentioned the RD radiator, are you still running the RD?
Are you aware that there is waterless coolant you can run in place of your typical dexcool. They system needs to be completely flushed for the waterless coolant but we have seen some cooler temps on our extreme FI cars by switching to the waterless coolant. Just an idea you might concider researching.
10-10-2014, 11:34 AM
#6
Team Owner
Dual fans didn't help.
Vented hood helped.
Big *** oil cooler with fan helps prolong overheating, but no prevent it.
Do you need a/c? Ditching a/c condenser works wonders. Spacing it out, getting a new clean one, and boxing it all in helps. While moving, car should be plenty cool, it is air flow when stopped that is an issue. The new Spal brushless fans are pretty damn good, but pricey and need to be custom mounted/shrouded. Expect $700-800 to get one setup.
I've heard mixed reports of electric water pumps helping since they move more fluid at idle, but I doubt they would be enough to overcome lack of airflow/fans.
Other options I've seen out here is to rig up a water spray on a switch that sprays down the a/c and radiator so when you are stopped at a light, you can spritz them to keep coolant temps down until you are moving again.
Vented hood helped.
Big *** oil cooler with fan helps prolong overheating, but no prevent it.
Do you need a/c? Ditching a/c condenser works wonders. Spacing it out, getting a new clean one, and boxing it all in helps. While moving, car should be plenty cool, it is air flow when stopped that is an issue. The new Spal brushless fans are pretty damn good, but pricey and need to be custom mounted/shrouded. Expect $700-800 to get one setup.
I've heard mixed reports of electric water pumps helping since they move more fluid at idle, but I doubt they would be enough to overcome lack of airflow/fans.
Other options I've seen out here is to rig up a water spray on a switch that sprays down the a/c and radiator so when you are stopped at a light, you can spritz them to keep coolant temps down until you are moving again.
10-10-2014, 03:27 PM
#7
Supremacy 1 car at a time
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for the replays I'll make some more reads about what all of you mentioned here.
as I mentioned up there am running Ron Davis radiator with dual fans now but it's not doing good with me at all!!!
my Z is an 06 btw
Still using the RD's but not for too long actually planning to sell the radiator and get another one maybe thicker just to make sure everything is works well, one of my friends suggest to get back to the OEM fan with my RD radiator.
about the dual fans that what I thud they're waste of time and money, yes I need my A/C for sure heat here is killing us 52*C in summer man. I was planning to do a water spray on switch if there is a kit available feel free to hit me up with the information.
best,
Mubarak.
Not sure what you have for radiator fans now but I would suggest getting some dual ones. Most of the time the car is fine while driving along it is when it is stopped that issues usually arise. Also not sure what year your Z is but they switched water pumps in 2009 moving the water outlet to drivers side (giving more room for the TB/CAI) however the pulley was narrowed so that might not work for you.
my Z is an 06 btw
I will give the OP the benifit of the doubt and go with the above mentioned sentence in bold as a simple miscommunication or difference in language's/culture's.
What radiator setup are you currently running? I saw above you mentioned the RD radiator, are you still running the RD?
Are you aware that there is waterless coolant you can run in place of your typical dexcool. They system needs to be completely flushed for the waterless coolant but we have seen some cooler temps on our extreme FI cars by switching to the waterless coolant. Just an idea you might concider researching.
What radiator setup are you currently running? I saw above you mentioned the RD radiator, are you still running the RD?
Are you aware that there is waterless coolant you can run in place of your typical dexcool. They system needs to be completely flushed for the waterless coolant but we have seen some cooler temps on our extreme FI cars by switching to the waterless coolant. Just an idea you might concider researching.
Dual fans didn't help.
Vented hood helped.
Big *** oil cooler with fan helps prolong overheating, but no prevent it.
Do you need a/c? Ditching a/c condenser works wonders. Spacing it out, getting a new clean one, and boxing it all in helps. While moving, car should be plenty cool, it is air flow when stopped that is an issue. The new Spal brushless fans are pretty damn good, but pricey and need to be custom mounted/shrouded. Expect $700-800 to get one setup.
I've heard mixed reports of electric water pumps helping since they move more fluid at idle, but I doubt they would be enough to overcome lack of airflow/fans.
Other options I've seen out here is to rig up a water spray on a switch that sprays down the a/c and radiator so when you are stopped at a light, you can spritz them to keep coolant temps down until you are moving again.
Vented hood helped.
Big *** oil cooler with fan helps prolong overheating, but no prevent it.
Do you need a/c? Ditching a/c condenser works wonders. Spacing it out, getting a new clean one, and boxing it all in helps. While moving, car should be plenty cool, it is air flow when stopped that is an issue. The new Spal brushless fans are pretty damn good, but pricey and need to be custom mounted/shrouded. Expect $700-800 to get one setup.
I've heard mixed reports of electric water pumps helping since they move more fluid at idle, but I doubt they would be enough to overcome lack of airflow/fans.
Other options I've seen out here is to rig up a water spray on a switch that sprays down the a/c and radiator so when you are stopped at a light, you can spritz them to keep coolant temps down until you are moving again.
best,
Mubarak.
10-10-2014, 03:33 PM
#8
Supremacy 1 car at a time
Thread Starter
that's the point why I added that note.
وشكراً
10-10-2014, 05:57 PM
#9
Team Owner
Never seen a water spray kit. You could fab one up easy enough. Just get a meth pump from any of those systems, or even just reroute your windshield washer nozzles to the radiator. That would be the easiest, then just use the built in switch in the car for that.
10-10-2014, 06:50 PM
#10
Here's a wild idea, since you seem to have extreme conditions to deal with (both heat and horsepower).
Breathless Performance used to offer an oil cooler setup that uses dual oil coolers mounted somewhere behind the front bumper, probably behind the fog lights. Get or construct something like that, but plumb it into the coolant system instead of the oil system (maybe disconnect the heater core and use those block fitting for inlet/outlet). Dunno if a 12-AN cooler would be sufficient size for coolant. You'd probably need to custom fabricate a fan for each of the coolers and add a controller (that could probably be piggy-backed onto the existing controller, maybe by something simply as a control relay to bring in extra power directly from the fuse block).
A local radiator shop may be able to fabricate a couple small radiators, or you could talk to one of the manufacturers in the U.S.
This would give you
1. extra coolant capacity, and
2. extra heat dissipation capacity.
Link to image (only)
Breathless Performance used to offer an oil cooler setup that uses dual oil coolers mounted somewhere behind the front bumper, probably behind the fog lights. Get or construct something like that, but plumb it into the coolant system instead of the oil system (maybe disconnect the heater core and use those block fitting for inlet/outlet). Dunno if a 12-AN cooler would be sufficient size for coolant. You'd probably need to custom fabricate a fan for each of the coolers and add a controller (that could probably be piggy-backed onto the existing controller, maybe by something simply as a control relay to bring in extra power directly from the fuse block).
A local radiator shop may be able to fabricate a couple small radiators, or you could talk to one of the manufacturers in the U.S.
This would give you
1. extra coolant capacity, and
2. extra heat dissipation capacity.
Link to image (only)
10-11-2014, 12:17 AM
#11
Supremacy 1 car at a time
Thread Starter
Here's a wild idea, since you seem to have extreme conditions to deal with (both heat and horsepower).
Breathless Performance used to offer an oil cooler setup that uses dual oil coolers mounted somewhere behind the front bumper, probably behind the fog lights. Get or construct something like that, but plumb it into the coolant system instead of the oil system (maybe disconnect the heater core and use those block fitting for inlet/outlet). Dunno if a 12-AN cooler would be sufficient size for coolant. You'd probably need to custom fabricate a fan for each of the coolers and add a controller (that could probably be piggy-backed onto the existing controller, maybe by something simply as a control relay to bring in extra power directly from the fuse block).
A local radiator shop may be able to fabricate a couple small radiators, or you could talk to one of the manufacturers in the U.S.
This would give you
1. extra coolant capacity, and
2. extra heat dissipation capacity.
Link to image (only)
Breathless Performance used to offer an oil cooler setup that uses dual oil coolers mounted somewhere behind the front bumper, probably behind the fog lights. Get or construct something like that, but plumb it into the coolant system instead of the oil system (maybe disconnect the heater core and use those block fitting for inlet/outlet). Dunno if a 12-AN cooler would be sufficient size for coolant. You'd probably need to custom fabricate a fan for each of the coolers and add a controller (that could probably be piggy-backed onto the existing controller, maybe by something simply as a control relay to bring in extra power directly from the fuse block).
A local radiator shop may be able to fabricate a couple small radiators, or you could talk to one of the manufacturers in the U.S.
This would give you
1. extra coolant capacity, and
2. extra heat dissipation capacity.
Link to image (only)
10-11-2014, 12:44 PM
#12
Dual fans didn't help.
Vented hood helped.
Big *** oil cooler with fan helps prolong overheating, but no prevent it.
Do you need a/c? Ditching a/c condenser works wonders. Spacing it out, getting a new clean one, and boxing it all in helps. While moving, car should be plenty cool, it is air flow when stopped that is an issue. The new Spal brushless fans are pretty damn good, but pricey and need to be custom mounted/shrouded. Expect $700-800 to get one setup.
I've heard mixed reports of electric water pumps helping since they move more fluid at idle, but I doubt they would be enough to overcome lack of airflow/fans.
Other options I've seen out here is to rig up a water spray on a switch that sprays down the a/c and radiator so when you are stopped at a light, you can spritz them to keep coolant temps down until you are moving again.
Vented hood helped.
Big *** oil cooler with fan helps prolong overheating, but no prevent it.
Do you need a/c? Ditching a/c condenser works wonders. Spacing it out, getting a new clean one, and boxing it all in helps. While moving, car should be plenty cool, it is air flow when stopped that is an issue. The new Spal brushless fans are pretty damn good, but pricey and need to be custom mounted/shrouded. Expect $700-800 to get one setup.
I've heard mixed reports of electric water pumps helping since they move more fluid at idle, but I doubt they would be enough to overcome lack of airflow/fans.
Other options I've seen out here is to rig up a water spray on a switch that sprays down the a/c and radiator so when you are stopped at a light, you can spritz them to keep coolant temps down until you are moving again.
10-12-2014, 02:20 AM
#13
Supremacy 1 car at a time
Thread Starter
10-12-2014, 02:16 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Fans
Unreals idea maybe pretty good about the new Spal brushless fans from what I can see they flow much more under real world conditions (like through radiator, condenser) and draw less current. I saw somewhere over 50% more under certain conditions. There was something in the C3 section with Tom Dewitt on these fans. The big thing here is to get air going at idle and or escape via the hood.
10-12-2014, 11:20 PM
#15
Supremacy 1 car at a time
Thread Starter
Unreals idea maybe pretty good about the new Spal brushless fans from what I can see they flow much more under real world conditions (like through radiator, condenser) and draw less current. I saw somewhere over 50% more under certain conditions. There was something in the C3 section with Tom Dewitt on these fans. The big thing here is to get air going at idle and or escape via the hood.
10-14-2014, 08:02 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
Type in brushless in C3 Tech section
In the look up function and you will find it there. it was done in last few months. Basically the brushless fan is not as sensitive to obstructions (like radiator and AC condensor) as a regular fan on performance. For example your twin fans flow 2700 cfm in open air but put a radiator/condenser in front and it may only flow 1300 cfm where as the brushless (which starts out also at 2700 cfm in open air) might be 1700 cfm with the same obstructions.