Originally Posted by Les

I may have missed it but I didn't see if you mentioned what long tubes you have and, more importantly, if you have catted or non-catted pipes running between them and the back part of the system. If you don't have cats, that would explain the smell of your exhaust.

Geoff at EPS will take the time to figure out what you're looking for and also to explain why he has chosen specific lobes to meet your needs. He quoted me $445. Kip at CamMotion can do the same thing. Both are very solid choices and they prefer endurance lobes to help the valvetrain be quieter and live longer.

Originally Posted by kbreese

The LT's are Kook's and the car does have cats. Apparently the profile of the cam causing fumes if the injector timing isn't tuned in just right, which I was told a lot of tuners don't take the time to do.

Yeah I'll probably contact either EPS or CamMotion for a custom grind. I really like the fact that they use those endurance lobes.

I guess I should probably get new valve springs too, even though the ones in there don't have that many miles on them.

Anything else I should replace while in there?

Originally Posted by kbreese

Ok updated impressions here. The cam is not bad if I were just to occasionally take it out on the weekends. But when warm weather comes I want to be able to drive it at least a few times a week to work, etc. The cam will not work for my commute. Here is my take:

Pros:
1.) Sounds mean. Aggressive lope that is a big attention getter and says "You will lose" haha.
2.) The drivability isn't that bad, especially with the stock clutch.
3.) The car still makes power every where. Ton of power on tap, and just screams up top.

Cons:
1.) Fumes. The car just stinks, and I feel bad for anyone driving behind me. And they are probably thinking damn that car stinks instead of wow that's badass.
2.) Trying to casually cruise is not great because it has to be held at like 2k rpm or above, or will want to start bucking a little. Additionally it makes the gas mileage really bad.
3.) #1 above. There are times where I probably don't want to sound like a drag car. Even with the exhaust closed it's still very aggressive sounding. I love it most times, but other times I probably won't be in the mood.
4.) I am pretty sure in stop and go traffic it will be a big PITA. At times, my commute can be 40 mins to an hour of stop and go.
5.) I worry about the valvetrain.

The car is awesome and badass, I just need it a little more tame and livable on a day to day basis.

Come spring I will definitely be looking to get a smaller cam. I'd prefer something that can get me around or close to 550rwhp (Remember the car as TSP heads, & LT's, so I hope that's attainable) and be very easy on the valvetrain and can cruise along @ 1500rpms or maybe even less nice and smoothly.

Just hoping it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The Vette Doctors are great but not exactly cheap. Combo of Vette and Long Island tax! I'll be looking to order a custom cam probably from one of the places mentioned in this thread and have the Vette Docs do the install and tune.

Originally Posted by Michael_D

Kinda funny how impressions change after the honeymoon is over...... Thanks for posting the update. Not many have the ***** to do that, after they go on, and on, and on....about how "good" their car runs when they initially swap in a big assed camshaft.

I do not, did not like the cam you are using. Way, way to much intake duration for this engine spinning to 7200, and not nearly enough exh duration split. Dumb camshaft really.

You can get rid of the fuel smell. I've been telling people on this site this for a couple years now. Not many listen. It's injection timing. You can also fix some the low rpm stuff, but you'll never get rid of all of it. You just can't tune for reversion. IT IS NOT "all in the tune", like so many like to say. You can plate a turd in 24C gold, but it's still gunna be a turd.

You can make pretty much any cam "sound" aggressive with over/under idle spark tables. I can give my idle a lope, or a chop, or make it sound like a tractor. I wouldn't worry about that.

For your goal of 550 rwp, you'll need roughly, 225-230 @ .050" intake duration, with about + 15 on the exh. Lift's .625-.650.

Springs will need to be spec'ed for the cam lobes used. Some need more load than others. I usually get the "rate" from the cam grinder, then I go to my notebook and start looking at springs, do some math to get my desired distance to coil bind, and order them. I like to set coil bind between .060" and .080".

Good luck.

Originally Posted by kbreese

Thanks for the feedback. I will probably use Geoff @ EPS and a cam with their endurance lobes. I really want a cam that will be easy on the valvetrain for my piece of mind. And one that I don't have to worry about changing the springs out for a very long time, similar to stock.

As far as doing math and the distance to coil bind, etc. That's above my tech level. I'll have to ask Geoff, or come back here for help after I order a custom cam from him, in terms of what specific springs to get.

Originally Posted by MTPZ06

I agree with others on here to ensure your guides are still in spec, and to go with a good quality spring that's compatible with your EPS cam. If the PSI 1511's are within your range of possibilities, those would be an obvious choice. They are pretty much the default spring for Katech on all their LS7 cams...even the K501. So I doubt your EPS cam will be more aggressive than the K501.

Originally Posted by kbreese

Whoever does the cam/spring install (Likely the Vette Doctors) would definitely make sure the guides and everything else is in spec and setup properly, wouldn't they?

I'm not sure if I'll need new pushrods or rockers either. Will have to go over that with Geoff & The vette Docs.

But I can tell you the PRC 265 heads on the car now were pulled by the owner only about 1000 miles ago to ensure everything was still in spec, and he said everything was perfect. He said was paranoid about it. He originally had WCCH ported heads. Pulled those after a while and they were out of spec, That's why he got the TSP heads for entire new geometry. And again after a while he pulled these heads and everything was fine. Lots of head pulling was done! lol.

Here is the receipt for the heads to show what all it came with:

Originally Posted by cuisinartvette

Change the cam to something much smaller period youll grow to hate the car unless youre 20 yrs old. lol

i like big cams also but for a true driver thats not a good choice at all as you found. Any performance cam Id be checking springs and more well before the 20k mark esp if you are wringing it out often. You can have a car that runs hard without all the extra rump

You may find the tq picks up where you really like it youll enjoy the car more regardless of what # it makes (who cares anyway)

Originally Posted by kbreese

Just emailed Geoff @ EPS custom cam order form. In a nutshell asked for a custom Cam Motion grind with the endurance lobes, and something very streetable that can chug along in bumper to bumper traffic + cruise at lower rpms without bucking/surging, and that is easy on the valvetrain. I'll see what he comes up with....

Originally Posted by MTPZ06

Good call.

Originally Posted by kbreese

Thanks. Anyone know how long it generally takes him to respond?

Originally Posted by Nowanker

I've bought 2 cams from Geoff... I emailed him, he responding within the day and suggested I call. After a bit of discussion, we arrived at specs. First cam was spot on exactly what I was after. Haven't run the second yet, but I have no reason to believe it won't be also. Turnaround time was <2wks.
Have all your info on hand, he'll ask alot of questions.

Originally Posted by Unreal

Why not a stock cam then? Fits all your goals.