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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I'd rather see it pull from the valley plate than a valve cover. Or possibly both even... Other than that minor detail, these cans do look like quality pieces.
The EE cans work fine though. I had an RX and it was a POS. I just pulled my intake off yesterday. Probably 5K miles since it has been off. No oil residue anywhere. The can had about four tablespoons of oil in it, and it was dumped about 1K miles ago. I am not afraid of the rev limiter either....
I think I'd go with the MM can if I didn't already have one, but I'd plumb the valley vent.
I'd rather see it pull from the valley plate than a valve cover. Or possibly both even... Other than that minor detail, these cans do look like quality pieces.
I modified mine a bit and pulled from both valve cover and valley plate. I like that better then capping the valley plate.
I'd rather see it pull from the valley plate than a valve cover. Or possibly both even... Other than that minor detail, these cans do look like quality pieces.
I think I'd go with the MM can if I didn't already have one, but I'd plumb the valley vent.
Hook a hose to the valley plate and try to blow through it. It is extremely restricted on purpose to perform stock PCV crankcase vacuum regulation, which makes it a particularly BAD location to try to control crankcase pressure from... and believe it or not you can't get more flow out of this fitting just by putting a fancy catch can on the end of it (even if it is mine haha).
Catch cans that use the factory port catch PCV oil, but when you are 2/3/4 times stock hp it just does not get the whole job done. Oil will come backward out of the fresh air line and your dipstick and main seals are next. If you add a 'clean side separator, or clean side catch can' to fix the oil, aside from your pocket being a little lighter you have also added further restriction to that line which INCREASES crankcase pressure.
Redbird 555 here is using my 'Wild' kit which uses a completely different can setup with special hose routing so that the engine is able to breathe out as it needs to without losing control of the oil or crankcase pressure, yet able to return to a completely normal PCV function. On boosted applications it also protects the can from the intake pressure.
I'd rather see it pull from the valley plate than a valve cover. Or possibly both even... Other than that minor detail, these cans do look like quality pieces.
The EE cans work fine though. I had an RX and it was a POS. I just pulled my intake off yesterday. Probably 5K miles since it has been off. No oil residue anywhere. The can had about four tablespoons of oil in it, and it was dumped about 1K miles ago. I am not afraid of the rev limiter either....
I think I'd go with the MM can if I didn't already have one, but I'd plumb the valley vent.
I've ran all 3. EE, RX and MM. RX was junk. Only can I've had that broke. They glued the stupid fittings in. Completely lame setup.
EE cans for stock HP and mild setups can be fine, but I rather get a can that works better and can do anything you can throw at it. Once you get into 700+hp, builds with opened ring gap for n2o/FI, blow by increases dramatically. The amount of air coming out of a high power LS setup is mind blowing.
Even with dual 3/8" lines I was still seeing crank case pressure. Had to upgrade to dual 1/2" lines in order not to see crank case pressure.
The factory line in the valley is actually not even a PCV valve on an LS7, but a small hole restrictor like 1/8 of an inch or so (so the 3/8 metal line is not even what it truly is they just use the metal line to put the hose on). So not much is going to go through the valley hole at all. Any big pressure is really pushed back through the fresh air system and into the accordion behind TB thing at high rpms. I am sure some pressure goes through the PCV line but with only an 1/8 hole not much going to go through there. I think the reason you get oil in that catch can is that the little 1/8 valley hole being so small actual helps pull oil out of the valley (even though it has baffles) is the velocity of air kind of creates a suction effect. The system (when getting away from stock form) either needs a blow off valve or bigger lines. With a blow off valve it reduces the pressure coming out of the valley line. On the supercharged Mustangs they use like a 1/2 or 5/8 inch PCV lines.
Here is what I did on mine I went 1/2 inch. The GM line 3/8 is on the left and you can see the Ford one which is 1/2 is a little more robust and flows twice as much
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Running MM cans I pull from each valve cover through -10 hoses. After watching friends blow out seals I wanted to be sure it worked well, and through talking with David, accomplished that goal. Just to be sure I checked the crankcase pressure on the dyno. As this video shows, we checked and there was no increase in pressure pulling up to 7000rpm.
The product and the service from Mighty Mouse can not be beaten. I have tired others....
Running MM cans I pull from each valve cover through -10 hoses. After watching friends blow out seals I wanted to be sure it worked well, and through talking with David, accomplished that goal. Just to be sure I checked the crankcase pressure on the dyno. As this video shows, we checked and there was no increase in pressure pulling up to 7000rpm.
The product and the service from Mighty Mouse can not be beaten. I have tired others....
Smart...motors under boost (high HP w/ high Boost) are notorious for blowing out seals. Been there, done that on previous vehicles. Good to know there's a proven solution.
Smart...motors under boost (high HP w/ high Boost) are notorious for blowing out seals. Been there, done that on previous vehicles. Good to know there's a proven solution.
After watching my buddy blow the rear seal out of his YSI/Z06 3 times, I didn't like taking chances with a brand new motor !!
I had a catch can and then removed it not really needed with my 571rwhp car. Also like the one I had the MM here notice the top vent on it vents right where the car intake is for the interior vent system. You will end up with smell in the car after a while
I had a catch can and then removed it not really needed with my 571rwhp car. Also like the one I had the MM here notice the top vent on it vents right where the car intake is for the interior vent system. You will end up with smell in the car after a while
It is your decision if you feel it is not needed.
You are correct about the smell if it was a cheap generic can venting all the time.
The MM can only vents under pretty high boost, which I never seen in normal driving. Been this way for 2 summers now and never smelled a thing in the car.
Hook a hose to the valley plate and try to blow through it. It is extremely restricted on purpose to perform stock PCV crankcase vacuum regulation, which makes it a particularly BAD location to try to control crankcase pressure from... and believe it or not you can't get more flow out of this fitting just by putting a fancy catch can on the end of it (even if it is mine haha).
I have the cover off of my personal car. It is restrictive, I'll give you that. But it doesn't matter. It's not as if the intake is pulling 20"hg.
Again, I like your products. I will not, however, eliminate the valley vent.
Originally Posted by Unreal
I've ran all 3. EE, RX and MM. RX was junk. Only can I've had that broke. They glued the stupid fittings in. Completely lame setup.
EE cans for stock HP and mild setups can be fine, but I rather get a can that works better and can do anything you can throw at it. Once you get into 700+hp, builds with opened ring gap for n2o/FI, blow by increases dramatically. The amount of air coming out of a high power LS setup is mind blowing.
Even with dual 3/8" lines I was still seeing crank case pressure. Had to upgrade to dual 1/2" lines in order not to see crank case pressure.
For my more serious engines, they get real systems. An old Donovan block based 632cid. 1050 n/a hp on race fuel. Built for A LOT of spray....
I have the cover off of my personal car. It is restrictive, I'll give you that. But it doesn't matter. It's not as if the intake is pulling 20"hg.
Again, I like your products. I will not, however, eliminate the valley vent.
For my more serious engines, they get real systems. An old Donovan block based 632cid. 1050 n/a hp on race fuel. Built for A LOT of spray....
You can run my draft can / mild system on the stock pcv, but at a certain power level you will see the cleanside contamination begin from not controlling the pressure.
LME has covers with fittings. So do a few others. But I rather spend $10 and 10 minutes in garage welding than $600+ on valve covers.
Dave already offers the screw on cap that makes it super easy for 99% of people.
I agree on the valve covers. The caps are cool but that still leaves me the driver side valve cover to deal with. I haven't looked close enough to know if the valve covers can be flipped. If so I guess I could run two of them.
12-22-2016, 09:24 AM
I've been running EE cans since 2004, they are quality pieces at a reasonable price and perform the function they were designed for very well. 
