[Z06] Electronic gremlims
#1
Electronic gremlims
07 Z06, 46K miles. In the past cruise control and stability control have stopped working during a long trip, disconnected and reconnected battery once home, all is well again. Now I have had to replace the battery and after about 70 or so miles all the guages went to zero, DIC scrolling about every system has failed, service this and that, low fuel, etc. Still ran fine, just no ABS, Traction/stability controls. Got home, voltage too low to start. Did the battery reboot, problem gone, Hurray! Well, not so fast, next trip, same glitch. Got home, still enough battery to restart, all is normal again. Had my favorite mechanic/technician, whatever you are supposed to call them now pull codes. He says it's above his pay grade,
Codes were PCM: U0073-00, U2100-00, U1017, BCM: U2100-00, U2105-00, U2108-00 INST CLUSTER: U1000, U1017, U1040 EXH CONT: U1017, LOST COM W/ECM, REM DOOR LOCK LOST COM W/ECM, VEHICLE COM INTERFACE U1017.
Anyone else experienced this? I am obviously baffled. There have been no changes or recent proceedures, just oil and filter awhile back, haven't been off roading or mud bogging in it. No new add on equipment, just bone stock like I like it. Any wisdom will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
BTW, battery voltage runs 14.1 to 14.5 while driving.
Codes were PCM: U0073-00, U2100-00, U1017, BCM: U2100-00, U2105-00, U2108-00 INST CLUSTER: U1000, U1017, U1040 EXH CONT: U1017, LOST COM W/ECM, REM DOOR LOCK LOST COM W/ECM, VEHICLE COM INTERFACE U1017.
Anyone else experienced this? I am obviously baffled. There have been no changes or recent proceedures, just oil and filter awhile back, haven't been off roading or mud bogging in it. No new add on equipment, just bone stock like I like it. Any wisdom will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
BTW, battery voltage runs 14.1 to 14.5 while driving.
Last edited by DRIVEJUNK; 05-13-2017 at 04:32 PM. Reason: additional info
#2
Team Owner
Battery, alternator, and clean/tight grounds. Sounds like battery may not be it, but the other two should be looked at.
#3
Pro Mechanic
Pro Mechanic
Most of those DTCs set when there are problems with the Class 2 serial data system and/or the controller area network (CAN). They will set when various modules cannot communicate over Class 2 or CAN with other modules.
Problematic batteries can cause all kinds of U DTCs to set, so I'd have the battery tested. If it's bad, replace it.
Additionaly, problems with grounding and problems with wires and connections at modules can cause loss of communication fault codes, so if the battery tests good, and some or all of those codes reset, check the tightness and cleanliness of ground connections and the connections at the car's various modules.
Once you get past basics such as a bad battery, bad grounds or loose or high-resistance connections at modules, solving those loss-of-communcations DTCs can be a challenge. To do that you'll need the Factory Service Manual, a Tech2 scan tester along with maybe a DVM and other diagnostic devices.
Good luck.
Problematic batteries can cause all kinds of U DTCs to set, so I'd have the battery tested. If it's bad, replace it.
Additionaly, problems with grounding and problems with wires and connections at modules can cause loss of communication fault codes, so if the battery tests good, and some or all of those codes reset, check the tightness and cleanliness of ground connections and the connections at the car's various modules.
Once you get past basics such as a bad battery, bad grounds or loose or high-resistance connections at modules, solving those loss-of-communcations DTCs can be a challenge. To do that you'll need the Factory Service Manual, a Tech2 scan tester along with maybe a DVM and other diagnostic devices.
Good luck.
Last edited by Hib Halverson; 05-13-2017 at 08:35 PM.
#4
"To do that you'll need the Factory Service Manual, a Tech2 scan tester along with maybe a DVM and other diagnostic devices."
And will power. You already have enough codes to choke a horse so I don't think you have much to loose by un-plugging and re-plugging all ECM and BCM plugs after confirming battery and grounds
And will power. You already have enough codes to choke a horse so I don't think you have much to loose by un-plugging and re-plugging all ECM and BCM plugs after confirming battery and grounds
#5
Race Director
07 Z06, 46K miles. In the past cruise control and stability control have stopped working during a long trip, disconnected and reconnected battery once home, all is well again. Did the battery reboot, problem gone, Hurray!...Well, not so fast, next trip, same glitch. Got home, still enough battery to restart, all is normal again...Codes were PCM: U0073-00, U2100-00, U1017, BCM: U2100-00, U2105-00, U2108-00 INST CLUSTER: U1000, U1017, U1040 EXH CONT: U1017, LOST COM W/ECM, REM DOOR LOCK LOST COM W/ECM, VEHICLE COM INTERFACE U1017.
Anyone else experienced this?
Anyone else experienced this?
Weird electronics w/ blizzard of codes has been reported if/when a passenger exerts too much downward pressure w/ feet.
Cheap panel bows, contacts blue connectors in ECM/fuse pit causing all kinds of unexplainable crap. Likes yours.
Couldn't hurt checking & reseating connectors, IIRC there're 3 and blue.
Members w/ this issue, and it was a PITA to t/s, put some kind of 'shim' between panel & box components. Divert contact w/ connectors the idea. One guy used a Pink Pearl eraser, claimed it did the job & no more problems.
G/L, updates appreciated.
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MTPZ06 (05-16-2017)
#6
Most of those DTCs set when there are problems with the Class 2 serial data system and/or the controller area network (CAN). They will set when various modules cannot communicate over Class 2 or CAN with other modules.
Problematic batteries can cause all kinds of U DTCs to set, so I'd have the battery tested. If it's bad, replace it.
Additionaly, problems with grounding and problems with wires and connections at modules can cause loss of communication fault codes, so if the battery tests good, and some or all of those codes reset, check the tightness and cleanliness of ground connections and the connections at the car's various modules.
Once you get past basics such as a bad battery, bad grounds or loose or high-resistance connections at modules, solving those loss-of-communcations DTCs can be a challenge. To do that you'll need the Factory Service Manual, a Tech2 scan tester along with maybe a DVM and other diagnostic devices.
Good luck.
Problematic batteries can cause all kinds of U DTCs to set, so I'd have the battery tested. If it's bad, replace it.
Additionaly, problems with grounding and problems with wires and connections at modules can cause loss of communication fault codes, so if the battery tests good, and some or all of those codes reset, check the tightness and cleanliness of ground connections and the connections at the car's various modules.
Once you get past basics such as a bad battery, bad grounds or loose or high-resistance connections at modules, solving those loss-of-communcations DTCs can be a challenge. To do that you'll need the Factory Service Manual, a Tech2 scan tester along with maybe a DVM and other diagnostic devices.
Good luck.
#7
Thank you. Alternator tests and reads good at DIC as well. Only connections that have been disturbed was installing battery, which BTW is a royal pain...But, re-re-checking can't hurt.
#8
"To do that you'll need the Factory Service Manual, a Tech2 scan tester along with maybe a DVM and other diagnostic devices."
And will power. You already have enough codes to choke a horse so I don't think you have much to loose by un-plugging and re-plugging all ECM and BCM plugs after confirming battery and grounds
And will power. You already have enough codes to choke a horse so I don't think you have much to loose by un-plugging and re-plugging all ECM and BCM plugs after confirming battery and grounds
Thanks for the response. If I ever find it I will update for all to file for future reference.
#9
On the trips, have a passenger?
Weird electronics w/ blizzard of codes has been reported if/when a passenger exerts too much downward pressure w/ feet.
Cheap panel bows, contacts blue connectors in ECM/fuse pit causing all kinds of unexplainable crap. Likes yours.
Couldn't hurt checking & reseating connectors, IIRC there're 3 and blue.
Members w/ this issue, and it was a PITA to t/s, put some kind of 'shim' between panel & box components. Divert contact w/ connectors the idea. One guy used a Pink Pearl eraser, claimed it did the job & no more problems.
G/L, updates appreciated.
Weird electronics w/ blizzard of codes has been reported if/when a passenger exerts too much downward pressure w/ feet.
Cheap panel bows, contacts blue connectors in ECM/fuse pit causing all kinds of unexplainable crap. Likes yours.
Couldn't hurt checking & reseating connectors, IIRC there're 3 and blue.
Members w/ this issue, and it was a PITA to t/s, put some kind of 'shim' between panel & box components. Divert contact w/ connectors the idea. One guy used a Pink Pearl eraser, claimed it did the job & no more problems.
G/L, updates appreciated.
#11
Did not see any obvious signs of stress, "cycled" connectors under passenger toe board for good measure. Time will tell if effective. Again, thanks for all the insights/suggestions.
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Landru (05-19-2017)
#12
Burning Brakes
If you bought the car used I would just take some time and look over everything looking for signs that work has been done in the past. What I picture is something was disconnected/moved for whatever reason and said connector wasn't seated all the way in enough to latch. Pair that with chassis flex from normal driving and you have an intermittent connection.
I had many of the same codes you listed with the same symptoms. It happened when I plugged a datalogger into the OBD2 port and bent one of the pins on the datalogger end of the connection. With one of the pins not seated the car couldn't complete the communication loop and it went batshit crazy.
I had many of the same codes you listed with the same symptoms. It happened when I plugged a datalogger into the OBD2 port and bent one of the pins on the datalogger end of the connection. With one of the pins not seated the car couldn't complete the communication loop and it went batshit crazy.
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DRIVEJUNK (05-22-2017)
#13
If you bought the car used I would just take some time and look over everything looking for signs that work has been done in the past. What I picture is something was disconnected/moved for whatever reason and said connector wasn't seated all the way in enough to latch. Pair that with chassis flex from normal driving and you have an intermittent connection.
I had many of the same codes you listed with the same symptoms. It happened when I plugged a datalogger into the OBD2 port and bent one of the pins on the datalogger end of the connection. With one of the pins not seated the car couldn't complete the communication loop and it went batshit crazy.
I had many of the same codes you listed with the same symptoms. It happened when I plugged a datalogger into the OBD2 port and bent one of the pins on the datalogger end of the connection. With one of the pins not seated the car couldn't complete the communication loop and it went batshit crazy.