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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
So just to confirm, i should be fine using good ol Mobil 1 5W30 and an AC Delco filter?
Correct. No reason what-so-ever to run anything but Mobil 1 5w30 on the LS7 unless you are tracking the car. In which case Mobil 1 0w40 or 15w50. Please pay no attention to these so called "oil experts". At some point two old oil guys will likely show up and argue some nonsensical point with each other, and further waste our time with their "expert opinion" about some super special quality of the oil they use. It is inevitable in an oil discussion and mostly nonsense. Same thing for differential and transmission. Factory fill, which is called for by the designer and used without issue on millions of cars.
My LS7 is modified, tracked and driven hard. It has used Mobil 1 its entire life with regular analysis from Blackstone. No issues, problems, drama or reason to use something else.
Correct. No reason what-so-ever to run anything but Mobil 1 5w30 on the LS7 unless you are tracking the car. In which case Mobil 1 0w40 or 15w50. Please pay no attention to these so called "oil experts". At some point two old oil guys will likely show up and argue some nonsensical point with each other, and further waste our time with their "expert opinion" about some super special quality of the oil they use. It is inevitable in an oil discussion and mostly nonsense. Same thing for differential and transmission. Factory fill, which is called for by the designer and used without issue on millions of cars.
My LS7 is modified, tracked and driven hard. It has used Mobil 1 its entire life with regular analysis from Blackstone. No issues, problems, drama or reason to use something else.
Correct. No reason what-so-ever to run anything but Mobil 1 5w30 on the LS7 unless you are tracking the car. In which case Mobil 1 0w40 or 15w50. Please pay no attention to these so called "oil experts". At some point two old oil guys will likely show up and argue some nonsensical point with each other, and further waste our time with their "expert opinion" about some super special quality of the oil they use. It is inevitable in an oil discussion and mostly nonsense. Same thing for differential and transmission. Factory fill, which is called for by the designer and used without issue on millions of cars.
My LS7 is modified, tracked and driven hard. It has used Mobil 1 its entire life with regular analysis from Blackstone. No issues, problems, drama or reason to use something else.
I agree with Mordeth on this, in fact when the LS7 was first developed Mobil 1 was going to be GM's oil of choice and the testing for it was 5 LS7's on engine stands running WOT for a week straight. Only one engine failed. That should pretty much sum it up!
Because it protects better. It was removed or lowered for emissions/mileage/etc. If your car is stock, run whatever, but once you get into high spring pressure, high lifter loads, high cylinder pressure, extra protection is nice. LS are notorious for wiping cam lobes, or running really high spring pressure on cam kits. They need as much protection as possible.
He asked for a heads/cam car, not a bone stock car. If it is stock, I would run whatever is cheapest from walmart. For a modified car with much higher than stock spring pressure, I strongly suggest a higher zinc oil.
Just what to warn everyone who is using Valvoline SYNpower Full Synthetic motor oil. If you store it for several years it will start to eat into the plastic container and cause a brown discoloration. Eventually it will start to seep/leak though the plastic.
I wish vendors/shops would say why NOT to use Mobil 1 5W-30 that GM recommends vs. just saying "You should only use XXX brand oil."
If someone can't give me a good reason to NOT use GM's recommendation, I'll keep using it.
If you run road course events and see oil temps above 260* F, you should not run M1 5W-30. The shear strength of M1 5W-30 tanks at around 260 so is not a good choice. GM recommends M1 15W-50 for track events, but not street use. I run M1 0W40 as I do those type events and sometimes have to drive the car from home in 20* weather to get to the track that has 70-80* weather and I'd not want to run the M1 15W-50 in that cold weather when I leave from home.
So just to confirm, i should be fine using good ol Mobil 1 5W30 and an AC Delco filter?
M1 5w30 for the last 30,000 miles at 575 rwhp with no leaks or consumption issues. Had 20,000 miles when I bought it then modded it. But I do use a Wix's XP oil filter. Idle has 30 psi, driving normal down the road 50 psi.
If you run road course events and see oil temps above 260* F, you should not run M1 5W-30. The shear strength of M1 5W-30 tanks at around 260 so is not a good choice. GM recommends M1 15W-50 for track events, but not street use. I run M1 0W40 as I do those type events and sometimes have to drive the car from home in 20* weather to get to the track that has 70-80* weather and I'd not want to run the M1 15W-50 in that cold weather when I leave from home.
Yes, agree! But this thread started out about his mechanic saying he should NOT run 5W-30 just based on the fact that he has an aftermarket cam and heads. He said nothing about racing. My comment was about normal, sprited, daily type driving. 5W-30 is more than enough. It provides better flow than the other weights, especially in cold temps, and that's what's most important to me. With the cooling our Z's have, I can barely get the damn oil temp above 180 even when running with the club on hard drives up into the hills around here.
If I tracked it? Absolutely I'd throw something in there *only for the track.* Once I'm home, 5W-30 would go right back in!
Yes, agree! But this thread started out about his mechanic saying he should NOT run 5W-30 just based on the fact that he has an aftermarket cam and heads. He said nothing about racing. My comment was about normal, sprited, daily type driving. 5W-30 is more than enough. It provides better flow than the other weights, especially in cold temps, and that's what's most important to me. With the cooling our Z's have, I can barely get the damn oil temp above 180 even when running with the club on hard drives up into the hills around here.
If I tracked it? Absolutely I'd throw something in there *only for the track.* Once I'm home, 5W-30 would go right back in!
I guess I'd be doing 6-8 oil changes every 3-4K miles on that basis. M1 0W-40 is fine for the street and the track.
I agree for normal street use and no track work, M1 5W-30 is OK.
I guess I'd be doing 6-8 oil changes every 3-4K miles on that basis. M1 0W-40 is fine for the street and the track.
I agree for normal street use and no track work, M1 5W-30 is OK.
M1 0w-40 supposedly has more anti wear additives.
Been running red line 5w-40 on the track, and getting rather costly with the 11 qt system, around $12/qt.
M1 0w-40 in Walmart is $28 for 5 qt jug...
My track oil temps were running around 230, occasionally 240.
Will see what it run now with the new engine and more power.
I don't wind it too tightly on a general basis, and have the rev limiter at 6900. Yeah, it's supposedly good for 7200+, and I prefer to keep it together.
For those who wandered, the VR1 conventional is 10w-30 or 20w-50. Besides break-in, ive been running the VR1 in my 418 stroker ever since. That was just a little over 10k mi ago. That said, I really really have been tossing around the idea of switching to synthetic, I just don't know which one. M1 0w-40 would be the ONLY one id run from Walmart at this level. It would be nice to not have to order oil. VR1 makes synthetic, but IRC, it actually tested LOWER than the conventional oil. Not by much but it had me saying why make the change?
Here's a link to a white paper published on the Amsoil website. I use Amsoil Signature 5w-30 at the moment. I called Amsoil Tech and explained my vehicle, engine, and usage and the oil expert recommended their Amsoil Dominator 10w-30. I haven't poured it in yet, maybe next oil change.
05-18-2017, 10:49 PM
AMEN!
