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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
ARH, LG, or Kooks IMO. The TSP headers are probably alright for most, but the mid-pipe that they use is just plain odd looking...the "X" section is towards the rear of the mid-pipe, rather than up near the header collectors. Everything I've read about the benefits of a "X" for scavenging purposes is that it should be as close to the header collectors as possible. The TSP "X" looks to be like 3 feet away from the collectors. Just my observations for what its worth...
Yea ill probably end up getting Kooks or Stainless Works. One more question have any of you ever used the copper coating for the head gasket? I used a razor and got all the stuff off and also used brake clean, but want to make sure I dont have any leaks which the surface feels super smooth anyway and im just OCD about stuff. Seems like even when you go light with the razor you still get some surface scuff marks nothing that catches my fingernail.
Yea ill probably end up getting Kooks or Stainless Works. One more question have any of you ever used the copper coating for the head gasket? I used a razor and got all the stuff off and also used brake clean, but want to make sure I dont have any leaks which the surface feels super smooth anyway and im just OCD about stuff. Seems like even when you go light with the razor you still get some surface scuff marks nothing that catches my fingernail.
I've used the copper spray before, when I installed Cometic gaskets on an old LS6 motor (paranoid about them sealing based on other members feedback). The Cometics might have sealed perfectly fine without it, but they never leaked with the gasket spray.
You don't have to go nuts with the deck - some folks are using sandpaper, which I personally would never let within 3 feet of an engine I'm working on (there will be folks that will come in and challenge this, and that's fine). If you are talking about a bare block on an engine stand, that's one thing - quite another with an assembled motor with oil in it - you can imagine those aluminum oxide (and other) particles might be very difficult to keep out of the oil galley-ways.
Same for the piston tops - hacking away for hours to get them pristine - well, guess what, as soon as the engine runs they will go right back to what they looked like when you pulled the heads. Going nuts on the piston tops risk knocking carbon particles into areas where they don't belong.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 05-24-2017 at 11:29 AM.
I've used the copper spray before, when I installed Cometic gaskets on an old LS6 motor (paranoid about them sealing based on other members feedback). The Cometics might have sealed perfectly fine without it, but they never leaked with the gasket spray.
You don't have to go nuts with the deck - some folks are using sandpaper, which I personally would never let within 3 feet of an engine I'm working on (there will be folks that will come in and challenge this, and that's fine). If you are talking about a bare block on an engine stand, that's one thing - quite another with an assembled motor with oil in it - you can imagine those aluminum oxide (and other) particles might be very difficult to keep out of the oil galley-ways.
Same for the piston tops - hacking away for hours to get them pristine - well, guess what, as soon as the engine runs they will go right back to what they looked like when you pulled the heads. Going nuts on the piston tops risk knocking carbon particles into areas where they don't belong.
Yea I just used a razor blade and some brake clean. Got them pretty clean and didnt go nuts on them just want to make sure I dont have any issues, but im pretty sure the a GM MLS gasket will seal it perfectly fine as mine didnt really have the gaskets caked on since it only has 27k on the motor. So next step is getting my heads setup for dual springs with the BTR stage 3 cam I will be throwing in it and bolt it all up and get some headers on there.
Yea I just used a razor blade and some brake clean. Got them pretty clean and didnt go nuts on them just want to make sure I dont have any issues, but im pretty sure the a GM MLS gasket will seal it perfectly fine as mine didnt really have the gaskets caked on since it only has 27k on the motor. So next step is getting my heads setup for dual springs with the BTR stage 3 cam I will be throwing in it and bolt it all up and get some headers on there.
What process did you use for block bolt holes? I used one of the old block bolts and cut a groove in it as other suggested. It did a good job but took some time and chaser seemed clean. The vac trick did not work for me so I taped all openings except bolt holes, sprayed brake clean about a 1/4 way in holes an let it sit for a bit, this loosened anything left remaining, then used the chaser again, say OCD, at this time the chaser was pulling out what looked like brown brake clean. I was happy I took this extra step! when chaser came out totally clean I went back and filled all bolt holes 3/4 way with brake clean. Finally, I took my air gun and put it to the bottom of the bolt, in the other hand was my wet/dry vac positioned very close and on top of the bolt hole. take a few short bursts of air and watch it shot straight into the vac tube. I was cool to watch and I didn't get any blow back on me from it, wear protective goggles as you do this to be safe. I then took a flash light to bolt holes, which looked pristine. Pull tape off deck and used brake cleaner on clean cloth to get any residue the tape may have left. Yes, this was a long process, but I only have one shot to get this right. Again, OCD.
[QUOTE=itomh;1594806833]What process did you use for block bolt holes? I used one of the old block bolts and cut a groove in it as other suggested. It did a good job but took some time and chaser seemed clean. The vac trick did not work for me so I taped all openings except bolt holes, sprayed brake clean about a 1/4 way in holes an let it sit for a bit, this loosened anything left remaining, then used the chaser again, say OCD, at this time the chaser was pulling out what looked like brown brake clean. I was happy I took this extra step! when chaser came out totally clean I went back and filled all bolt holes 3/4 way with brake clean. Finally, I took my air gun and put it to the bottom of the bolt, in the other hand was my wet/dry vac positioned very close and on top of the bolt hole. take a few short bursts of air and watch it shot straight into the vac tube. I was cool to watch and I didn't get any blow back on me from it, wear protective goggles as you do this to be safe. I then took a flash light to bolt holes, which looked pristine. Pull tape off deck and used brake cleaner on clean cloth to get any residue the tape may have left. Yes, this was a long process, but I only have one shot to get this right. Again, OCD.[/QUOTE
I had some of those compressed air cans you clean keyboards with laying around so I used those to spray the stuff out of the bolt holes initially, but then I just took some paper towels and rolled them up to fit into the big bolt holes to soak up any coolant left behind and this did the trick. I am in the process of cutting a groove into a bolt and using it to clean out the bolt holes of any residue that might be left behind. Or just use a tap that fits the threads to chase them. Either way I feel like that will be sufficient enough as I will be using studs this time around instead of replacing the bolts.
What process did you use for block bolt holes? I used one of the old block bolts and cut a groove in it as other suggested. It did a good job but took some time and chaser seemed clean. The vac trick did not work for me so I taped all openings except bolt holes, sprayed brake clean about a 1/4 way in holes an let it sit for a bit, this loosened anything left remaining, then used the chaser again, say OCD, at this time the chaser was pulling out what looked like brown brake clean. I was happy I took this extra step! when chaser came out totally clean I went back and filled all bolt holes 3/4 way with brake clean. Finally, I took my air gun and put it to the bottom of the bolt, in the other hand was my wet/dry vac positioned very close and on top of the bolt hole. take a few short bursts of air and watch it shot straight into the vac tube. I was cool to watch and I didn't get any blow back on me from it, wear protective goggles as you do this to be safe. I then took a flash light to bolt holes, which looked pristine. Pull tape off deck and used brake cleaner on clean cloth to get any residue the tape may have left. Yes, this was a long process, but I only have one shot to get this right. Again, OCD.[/QUOTE
I had some of those compressed air cans you clean keyboards with laying around so I used those to spray the stuff out of the bolt holes initially, but then I just took some paper towels and rolled them up to fit into the big bolt holes to soak up any coolant left behind and this did the trick. I am in the process of cutting a groove into a bolt and using it to clean out the bolt holes of any residue that might be left behind. Or just use a tap that fits the threads to chase them. Either way I feel like that will be sufficient enough as I will be using studs this time around instead of replacing the bolts.
Do not use tap, it is designed to cut, you are better off cutting the groove in old bolt studs, which will be tossed anyway. You are using new bolts, right?
Do not use tap, it is designed to cut, you are better off cutting the groove in old bolt studs, which will be tossed anyway. You are using new bolts, right?
Im going the ARP head stud route. Just incase I wanna change things in the future.
Got some parts in. Time to send the heads off with the dual springs and also upgrading the triunions with solid brass bearings instead of the needle bearings, so rockers are going to need some work. Next is to order headers and X pipe.
Got some parts in. Time to send the heads off with the dual springs and also upgrading the triunions with solid brass bearings instead of the needle bearings, so rockers are going to need some work. Next is to order headers and X pipe.
We're all your 4x15mm alternator bracket bolts identical in length and style?
We're all your 4x15mm alternator bracket bolts identical in length and style?
Three were the same and one was almost the same length but had a rounded head at the end. I believe the one with the rounded head just goes through the bracket and comes out the other side while the three that dont mount to the head.
Three were the same and one was almost the same length but had a rounded head at the end. I believe the one with the rounded head just goes through the bracket and comes out the other side while the three that dont mount to the head.
Thanks, that's what I have, just need to remember where the rounded end one goes
I got air and a wiz wheel so ill just notch the old bolts that came out. Had to go pick up a 18" breaker bar and used my jack handle as added leverage to get the crank bolt off, but after that it was a breeze getting the pulley off with a kit I got from harbor freight, just placed a socket on the snout and gave it plenty of threads to get the pulley off without damaging anything.
Eh its not so bad, just gotta take your time and make sure you dont skip steps. I got my BTR stage 3 cam in and about to throw on the timing cover. Still debating on painting the front cover like I am the valve covers. But all in all not a a bad process, just loosened the pan bolts a little and out came the oil pump without any issues.
Dropped the heads off today, should get them back in a week, also ordering a set of stainless works headers with offroad x pipe. She should sound real nice after I get it all bolted back up.
Dropped the heads off today, should get them back in a week, also ordering a set of stainless works headers with offroad x pipe. She should sound real nice after I get it all bolted back up.
It's looking good, my heads will be here Friday, it took almost 7 weeks, I've missed most of spring driving, I should have put back together this weekend.
It's looking good, my heads will be here Friday, it took almost 7 weeks, I've missed most of spring driving, I should have put back together this weekend.
Yea I hate going in the garage knowing I still have at least two more weeks of not being able to drive her. Oh well it will be worth it in the end.
05-22-2017, 03:43 PM
