tdeweese

Guys,

I have had continued issues with wheel hop. Anyone who has had it and solved it please chime in. My setup is N/A around 620-625hp with stock transverse leafs and double adjustable Viking shocks. I had the car aligned with less than .05 deg toe and -.72 deg camber on the rear. I run 19/20 MPSS for the street and cannot get the car to aggressively leave in 1st or shift into 2nd without wheel hop. I have a new set of Hoosier 315/35/17 on Weld wheels that I have not tried yet. I ran DRM Bilsteins in the past with similar results to the Vikings. All my motor and trans mounts have been checked and OK. Want to remedy this before I break something.

meanjoe

Sounds like you're not being aggressive enough with it. Try adding another 750 or so RPM's to your leave speed and then don't go for 2nd until right at 7K RPM's.....If that helps you'll know it's you and not the car.
The reason I suggest this is at your HP level I'm guessing that you're making most of that power in the higher end of the RPM range. You have a lot of NA HP there, use it.

Good luck.

Dirty Howie

I would try your other set of wheel/tires. If you get the same result you know its you or your set up. If your wheel hop is gone you will know its your current tires.

I would listen to Joe too

Lots of people have this problem. Good luck.


DH

jerseydrew

+1 more throttle. IMO wheel hop is in driving style.

tdeweese

Thanks guys I will give it a shot, but I can get this thing to wheel hop just by stabbing the throttle.

meanjoe

Thats the problem. You can't just stab the pedal. You're going to need to bring up the RPM's before you go for it. I'm at 575 RWHP and can make mine wheel hop anytime I want by just babying it too much and I make power at a much lower RPM than you do. With your HP dynamics you're going to need to be more aggressive or you're going to wheel hop all over the place for quite some time.
Take it and let it out at about 5K or so and then see what it does.

GARY2004Z06

To help mitigate wheelhop, we need to fully understand what it is and what certain combinations are better than others for specific applications. Wheelhop is caused by the intermittent loss of traction during acceleration. Violent shaking occurs and the balance of the car is upset. This can be caused by a number of factors. With respect to our cars, the most common are throttle input, available traction of the surface, tire selection and clutch. In general, you will be best served with a bias ply tire if looking for max acceleration. It is not to say, that they do not wheelhop but they are less prone to do so. The sidewalls are much more forgiving than a radial. They can/should spin and still accelerate quite well. Your shorter sidewall radials tend to hit the drivetrain much harder than a bias ply tire. They tend not to recover when they begin to spin. Your clutch needs to slip much more with a radial. That Hoosier DR is quite aggressive and has a short sidewall. If your clutch does not slip, you have a well prepped surface and you are very aggressive on the launch (high rpm, fast off the clutch and fast throttle input), you may either wheelhop or just snap a cv axle. If it is only an axle, you are in luck. On the street where less grip is available, any radial street tire can easily go into wheelhop. As stated by others above, stabbing the throttle is not the correct technique with your combo. Knowing the limits of your combo help you decide what technique is best for each condition. Good luck and keep us posted.

tdeweese

Thanks for the input Gary2004Zo6, I am limited as my car has 3.73 gears and consequently a weaker RPM built C6 base diff with ECS brace. My car is a 2009 so I have the larger axles. Weather permitting I plan to bolt on the Hoosier and try some street launching soon before my trip to the strip. My motor was rebuilt with very light weight custom forged pistons; in combination with the heads, intake and cam/lifter combination this motor revs EXTREMELY quickly and has certainly made the wheel hop much more prone and violent this year for me.

TTZ06VETTE

I believe there are also parameters in the tune for controlling wheel hop through spark or fuel although I have never had to mess with them.

GARY2004Z06

No problem. I too elected for a gear swap opting for 4.10s. Although not as strong as the C6Z diff, they are quite stout. The key with the Hoosiers will be to pick a starting rpm that is sufficiently high enough to prevent a bog while rolling into the throttle and quickly (not a dump) and smoothly engaging the clutch. Timing is everything. You may wish to start at 3500 rpm or thereabout and work up from there. My setup would work well launching between 5500 and 6000 rpm with those tires. Remember that breakage potential increases as launch rpm increases. You may wish to get a spare cv axle or two. They can be changed relatively easy at the track with hand tools and an impact gun. Tire pressure for those tires should generally be 14 to 19 psi. This will depend on track prep and the wheels you choose.

kbreese

Just curious...generally speaking, do coilovers help with wheel hop, or make it worse?

Personally, I haven't experienced any wheelhop on the street with my 08Z @ around 570rwhp with 345/25/20 Nitto Invo's and pfadt coilovers. This is with a stock clutch & gearing. The car is quite low and the suspension is quite stiff and the invo's just kinda spin smoothly and the transition to where they start to grab is not abrupt. Overall they seem to have decent straight line traction. They are more then 50% worn too, for the record. But to be honest, I've only driven the car 5x so far

GARY2004Z06

Coilovers do not show any advantage or disadvantage over the OEM leafspring. The ability to adjust the shocks can help to mitigate wheelhop to a certain extent.

RyanT

When I had my 09 Z I fought the wheel hop. I put DRM shocks on it and it still hopped. I said screw it and bought a set of LG coil overs. They were a win, win, win. The ride height was perfect, the car handled awesome and the wheel hop was gone.

Ryan