C7BB

Sweet!!! You're awesome. Much appreciated man!!!

Z O SICK

Nice numbers! Looks like on a 50 shot you're right on par with a bolt on C6 Z. On the 100 shot, your car is moving! On a 150, your car is going to fly? What kind of tires are you running? Did you have any traction issues?

p.s. my car "should" finally be ready by the this Friday. Crossing my fingers.

Tony

10mm_

Thanks!! I agree

I was on stock tires, my car is completely stock except for the nitrous kit, no air filter or intake no tune or exhaust or anything. I did not have any traction issues but I wasn't really leaving that hard, I have pulled 1.68 and 1.73 60's when going for a personal best but this day I just wanted to verify the function of the nitrous so I just left "normal" and then activated the nitrous in 2nd gear. I have NO doubt that if I could spray out of the hole on drag radials the gains would have been even more impressive (imagine if you had a car with a blower and didn't floor it until second gear). Heck if I had a window switch I would have sprayed out of the hole on stock tires, I think it would have held I just didn't want to tag the limiter on the bottle and mess something up.

I will be back at the track on a cool day, with a warm bottle, and a window switch, and possibly a purge kit, and I think this car will put up a hellacious number for only having 100 shot.

To put it in perspective I ran at Fayetteville on a 68 degree day and my best was 11.90 @ 117.6. I went to Richmond on a 48 degree day and ran 11.52@119.5. These nitrous passes were made at Fayetteville on a 91 degree day, IMO I would have been 12.1 @ 116.x that day with no nitrous.


Can't wait to see how your car runs!

10mm_

Those guys you see post great times and records and stuff don't just slap parts on and wait in line at a random track on a random day. They rent ATCO on a cool day and take their time and have all the circumstances just right to put up a killer number.

Stay tuned

cobra502

Very clean install. I'm getting ready to install the same kit and was wondering if you could answer some questions so I don't have to "reinvent the wheel".


* Where did you mount your bottle
* Did you have any problems mounting the bottle brackets (drilling holes in the floor, etc.)
* Where did you connect the fuel supply from the plate. They talk about locating on the fuel log (injector rail) a “test port” fitting to tap into. I couldn't anything like that.
* Where did you route your wiring into the driver's compartment
* Where did you mount your buttons and switches
* Where did you mount your solenoids (looks like near the master cylinder)
* Where did you mount your purge outlet
* Where did purchase your kit


Thank you for any help you can provide, I really appreciate it.

Gbjr08

I started similar on my a8, however I tuned over to e85 (recommended for some nice gains). The car was completely stock other than the nitrous and e85 and I pulled off an 11.2 on a 75 shot. I pilled it up to a 150 shot and dynod 584 if I recall correctly but never got to take it to the track with tires and a big shot

Z O SICK

You can't go wrong with spray (if set up correctly of course)! My next Vette will have the A8! I drove a friend's and I fell in love instantly! I can't imagine how fast your car will be if you went with a 150 and some bolt on's!

As far as my car goes, it just got pushed back another week, go figure! I'm going on two months with out my car for a simple heads and cam job.

10mm_

Ok as far as bottle mounting, that was an issue for me. NO WAY was I drilling holes in anything to bolt down bottle brackets. This was my solution:



This picture just shows the bottle sitting there, but I used a bungee cord to hold it down, there is a clip nearby to hook the bungee to. The bottle sits so far down in that cubby that it could never tip over and with the hatch closed there's no way it could get out, even if you crashed it would just hit the hatch it couldn't fit up out of there. I used the bungee to just hold it down to keep it from bouncing up if I hit a bump or something. I also filled the excess space around the bottle in the cubby to make it more secure.

I was originally going to build a custom bracket that snapped in where the targa snaps in but I just didn't need a permanent mounting solution, I only plan to use the bottle at the track. When I drive around on the street I take it out.

Some people who don't mind 4 holes in their carpet will epoxy a metal plate down in the hatch area that already has the 4 bolts in it, set the bottle brackets on those and use 4 nuts and just poke small holes in the carpet, that is an option too.

The NX instructions are terrible, they are basically for an older LS kit and not updated at all for the LT1. I called them twice to express my concerns over this and the last time the guy told me they have an updated set of instructions, but by then I was done and didn't ask for a copy. I will outline things I noticed that were wrong in the instructions and the clarification for them:

-One of the -AN fittings in the kit has a screen filter but no mention of where it goes, it is for the nitrous "IN" port on the nitrous solenoid, to filter contaminates from getting into the nitrous solenoid.

-The instructions mention blue and red colored lines, all the lines in the kit are black. Two of the three lines they give you have the same sized fitting on both ends, one has two different sized fittings. The one with two different sized fittings feeds the nitrous from the solenoid to the plate. The line with two bigger fittings feeds the fuel rail adapter to the fuel solenoid. The line with two smaller fittings feeds the fuel inlet on the plate from the fuel solenoid.

-The instructions mention solenoids integrated into the plate, they are not. They use bendable universal brackets that mount on the bottom of the solenoids at the diagonal holes.

-The instructions mention red sealant for the pipe thread fittings but the kits now ship with blue. This is simply loctite, they switched to blue so that you don't have to heat the fittings up to remove them. Use this like you would any other loctited fastener. Remember you can always snug the fittings up a little more if you have to but once you strip one you're f'd.

-The fuel rail adapter goes on the drivers side, it T's into that stainless steel braided line you can see go through a cutout in the drivers side engine cover. You will need to buy a fuel line tool to disconnect it, I think it's 3/8".

-The wiring for the WOT switch shows to connect to a white/red wire at the throttle body, which is completely wrong. The wire you need is behind the gas pedal, and there is an ascending and descending voltage wire back there...either will work. One is yellow and one is green with a white stripe, I used the yellow one.

-The plate pictured in my instructions is wrong, mine has a fitting on each side which is better it made the plate thinner.

I think that about covers instruction discrepancies, they were really bad though I may have missed something. I remember being glad this is the 5th nitrous kit I have installed so I pretty much knew how it went.


I routed the wiring from the drivers compartment into the engine bay through the firewall where the clutch pedal would be. It comes out behind the inner fender liner but you can run the wires/hose right up from under the brake booster and connect to anything you need. There is a knockout in the foam insulation to the left of the brake pedal, I pulled that off and then drilled a hole in the fiberglass behind it, then I replaced the foam piece with a small hole cut in it to seal around the wires and nitrous feed line. It doesn't look super neat in this pic because I haven't wrapped those couple wires I didn't heat shrink yet, but I will.



This is so far up under the dash nobody could see it without throwing their back out. I then hid the feed line under the plastic trim near the rocker panel, under the trim around the rear wheel, and out of the back of that trim into the cubby in the back, you can only see about 1" of the braided line as it goes into the cubby, something I could live with.





I suppose you could stuff it all under the wheel well cover when not in use but I didn't want to do that. I mounted the WOT switch to a fuse block thing under the dash with double sided tape, and mounted the relay behind the inner fender liner up against the washer fluid bottle. You have to take the fasteners out of the inner fender and front mudflap thing off to see in there, it wasn't exactly roomy but I didn't want anything to be visible.

I made a custom wiring harness using a "flat 5" trailer hitch connector so that I could plug my arm and nitrous switch in whenever I wanted to use them and not permanently mount any switches in my car.



I just tucked the female end of the trailer plug under the carpet and when I want to use it I pull it out and plug in my arm and purge switch (just used weatherproof blade connectors and a lot of heat shrink tubing) and set it on the console.




I mounted the solenoids using a bolt on that silver thing shown in the first pic, I just took the bolt out put both brackets there and put the bolt back in, there are a couple good grounds right nearby as well.



I don't have a purge, but if I did I would probably put the outlet near the windshield or hood vent.

I bought my kit from Corvettemods.com. It was about $150 off retail and free shipping.


Sorry for the long post but I would imagine if you are new to nitrous and using the **** poor instructions then this will save you a TON of time. Some nights I spent a couple hours looking at stuff and thinking about how to run this or that, not even getting much done. I am happy with how it turned out, it's not overly obtrusive and when I am not using it, it's completely out of sight.

10mm_

That sucks!! Hopefully you get it back really soon.

I agree about the A8, it's phenomenal. I think headers tune 150 shot with an 8 speed would be nightmare fast, I'm just going to enjoy my car the way it is for awhile and then as I get the itch to mod I will have options. My last car got a forged bottom end, blower, headers, cams, twin disc, gears, intake, intake manifold, plus a bunch of cosmetic stuff within about a year of me owning it. This time I'm gonna take it slow lol

Cordes Performance Racing

Sorry my friend, should have came to me :p, op glad you got it all done and running.

cobra502

Thanks. This will be a great help. I'll try and see if I can get the C7 instructions from Nitrous Express.

10mm_

Thanks for the help man! If I ever need something I can't tackle myself I will be calling you lol

cobra502

10mm, Do you have a tune in your C7? My tuner tells me he needs to pull timing, 4 degrees, with 100 shot or more. If you do, at what RPM do you start pulling timing. He wants a starting RPM.

T/A KID

Factory spark tables are a little lazy that's why you can get away with a 100 shot without pulling timing.

I usually start pulling timing at 3000

cv67

Here I spent yrs and much money to get my old schooler to maybe go 11s....and these cars with one mod are doing just that all day stock for the most part; and get better than 6 mpg
you suck


J/K enjoy your rides, all.

Z O SICK

I agree, that set will haul the mail. Keep me in the loop as far as your mods go.

Z O SICK

Live and learn my friend! At this point I'm doing a lot of both lol. I tried to help out a friend but it is what it is now. I won't bash or bad mouth anyone because that's not my style. However, when I get my car back (whenever that me be), I'm going to have a long talk with my friend about how my experience and how things should have been handled.

In all of my years of having cars built, this experience takes the cake. Trust, honestly and being straight up with me about my cars is paramount and goes a long way! I'm a hard customer to please but I'm also paying good money to have a job done. In contrast, my last build (done by you ironically lol), I knew what was going on at all times and there was never any doubt the work getting done was performed correctly. I hope when I do get my car back that I'm happy and my experience will just be water under the bridge so to speak. However, I don't think it will be lol.

Cordes Performance Racing

It's ok man I still love you xoxo #fullonbromancelotsofhomo

10mm_

No my car is not tuned, and I didn't pull any timing for the 100, I did have my octane around 104 though. I would pull at most 2 degrees for the 100 shot, but that's really up to you.

If you are going to pull timing for the nitrous just pull it globally not in a specific rpm range.

10mm_

Lol I remember those days as well.


And for the record I will correct you to 10's with one mod before long