phxbob44

I'm convinced the A&A unit is a good one. I just wonder if anybody has any comparison data beween the A&A unit and the Edelbrock unit for a otherwise stock C7 with all the options. Are both compatible with the GM warranty? Does either offer a warranty? Do they cost about the same? Is one easier for the DIY guy than the other..??

vegasredz062

warranty voided on power train.

A&A almost no heat soak. Go with A&A

musclecar6

If one uses the supplied tune and it's installed by an approved installer, Edelbrock has a 3yr/ 36000 mile warranty for up to $16,500 covering parts of the drive train. A&A has no warranty like that. The Edelbrock is a positive displacement blower offering instant right now virtually full torque at any rpm. The A&A is a centrifical design that comes on strong in the mid and upper range. Both designs have pros and cons. There are plenty of threads on these blowers. Do a search for these and the ECS supercharger kit and you'll find tons of good stuff.

For around town fun and a quick blast up to around 100, with excellent maintenance free reliability, the Edelbrock is a great way to go. If you like your fun on the mid/upper rpm range and you also like taking it to the drag strip, the A&A may be a better choice.

phxbob44

I appreciate the information. Edlebrock states their system is bolt on no adjustments needed..... Do you think its something fit for DIY or is it harder than they make it sound? I am somewhat mechanical but my building 283's and 327's are long behind me...

MrGTC

Subscribed. Considering getting an A&A unit as well. I have not seen many members on here with it though...maybe a handful.

Cordes Performance Racing

Here is our take on this.

If you want pure low end brute power and 99% of what you do is play on the street, on ramp's, etc. then my vote goes to a PD blower. If you want to get into air strip attack racing, roll racing, etc. then the centrifugal is the superior choice. Now if your an auto car then the centrifugal car will still be fun from a dig. In terms of brand to buy I do like the A&A kit's and they make a quality unit. I just personally prefer a few things ECS did differently but as long as you pick either of those you are good. Now for the pd blower I would highly suggest not doing the E-force and consider doing the magnuson. They have amazing iat control, which is the deciding factor on the pd blower since they both use 2.3 rotors. The magnuson uses a varimax pump, large heat exchanger, and extremely large dual intercooler brick's with big lines to flow the fluid. We carry both ECS and Magnuson and would love to talk with you about all the different things that make them unique, in terms of power, install, etc. Since we are not just a parts store we can give you full tech support on installing the kit's too

phxbob44

Great information - thanks. Edelbrock seems to suggest installation is a no brainer....is it? Also, I gather the Eforce is about $3k more expensive than the A&A....sound right?

STAGED

I'll be interested to hear more on this thread.

Here's an A&A blown Vette run (10.9s @ 125+ mph):

Here's a LPE-E-force Vette run in May in Kentucky (10.9s @ 131+ mph <-- cooking on top end too):

I don't know what other work was done or fuel used on each example, but I'm interested to know as close to blower-only performance as possible myself.

I think both blowers will give the stock bottom end and trans. plenty of hell in terms of stress. My past experience with centrifugals on other cars was if you have big future plans down the road, the centrifugal route can grow with your plans to very high levels. The progressive boost curve makes it relatively easy to put power down to the ground compared to PD or turbo'd setups making same peak hp.

awstngray

I too have been looking into getting a supercharger that i can install myself. So far, I was actually leaning towards getting the procharger system. Anyone have thoughts on the procharger vs. A&A kits?

FYREANT

Its my understanding that the guys at A&A and ECS both used to work at ProCharger and took what ProCharger was doing with their kits and made them better. ProCharger makes kits for all types of cars where ECS and A&A primarily specialize in just Corvettes. I ultimately decided that was the deciding factor to not go the ProCharger route in my opinion. With that said, I got a smokin deal on an A&A kit a couple week ago and will be installing it in the next couple weeks. OP, good luck in your decision either way you will be happy!

Ant

thrilled

I have been studying ECS.I believe that is the way to go for me.If I was you I would read
Everything that you can find on them all.And then make up your mind.

Theta

QFT on both accounts. If you're set on a PD blower, you now have a better choice available after only 18 months...

Andy@A&ACorvette

Not sure where you heard that. Nobody at A&A (or ECS for that matter) ever worked at Procharger.
We both made our own kits using Procharger head units and improved the bracketry, tubing, cooling etc.
We both changed from Procharger to Vortech (or Paxton) quite a few years ago.

I also would encourage that. Take a "VERY CLOSE" look at all the kits vs. each other rather than assume because a vendor says theirs is the best, that it actually is.

We actually produce more C7 kits than we do C5 or C6 kits these days. I think we average about 7 C7 kits a week and about 15 total kits a week.
We just don't get on the Forum every day and jump into every thread that has anything to do with superchargers. We're the quiet types.

I am directing all my comments at centri type systems here to keep it apples to apples. As a matter of fact I just bought a 2015 Tahoe yesterday and will be putting an Edelbrock on it. They're great for heavy trucks!

There are PLENTY of A&A C7 kits out there.
(1) A&A systems are the only one to run a full 4" MAF tube. ECS does 3 1/2" and Procharger does 3".

(2) We are the only ones to incorporate a honeycomb air straightener to make the airflow laminar across the MAF sensor.

(3) We are the only ones that include an SFI approved balancer with interchangeable lower pulleys in every kit. The "other guys" get a machined "add on" pulley and bolt it to the cast balancer. Cheaper? Absolutely. Better? Obviously bolting a pulley to any cast piece can't possibly run as true as or be as strong as a fully machined balancer that is SFI approved. They can say it's just as good but clearly it ain't so.

(4) We are the only ones to have a completely enclosed scoop welded to the intercooler that forces the air from a high pressure area (the enclosed radiator cavity) through the cooler and out into a low pressure area. (below the car)
Air can't possibly be expected to hit an air dam under the car, make an abrupt 90* turn, go up through the intercooler with no scoop to direct it and have it exit into the high pressure radiator cavity. It's completely unreasonable to expect this to work properly.
(Obviously with tons of methanol it become a moot point.)

(5) Our polished or black 4" inlet tube from our custom air filter is completely smooth with no ugly welds.

(6) Our system comes with the supercharger- bracket assembly completely assembled. Even the bolts that attach it to the engine are zip tied in place. Once everything is moved and ready for the blower installation it is a 5 minute job to bolt the whole assembly on the car. Nobody else does that for you.

(7) We run a single 5 ply silicone hose all the way from the supercharger to the intercooler inlet as well as all the way from the intercooler outlet to the4" MAF tube. This makes installation much easier and the chance of leaks at the junctions much less. We use fully stainless "constant tension" clamps throughout the entire kit.

(8) We include the 52 MM Turbosmart BV which can be run with a filter (medium loud), open (too loud IMO)or with a trumpet to be completely obnoxious. We also have the Race port at no extra charge. There are options for all tastes.

(9) When the 15s came out, I immediately made a separate bracket to fit the new water pump correctly. This is the proper way to do it, I believe. Some manufacturers chose to leave the bracket the same and just add a 2014 water pump for an extra $300.

There are lots of reasons why I feel our system is the best available. I designed every piece of this system myself and made sure it was the best it could be. It would have been SO much easier to stick a 3 1/2" MAF tube in there with a bend in the middle of it. A straight 4" MAF tube is the best way to build this kit and I started with that and designed the other plumbing around it. I was adamant about have a STRAIGHT 4" tube.

Just because a particular manufacturer is either on or hires someone to be on the Forums every day does not make that product any better. It's just in front of you all the time so you assume its the most popular and must be the best.

Compare any kit, piece for piece, and decide for yourself.

Theta

I use a hybridized (one-off) version which is similar to this, flowing from high to low pressure - tends to work much better than the original air dam design (for what it's worth).

I'm still in the centri corner, but I have a stupid amount of low-end power from the 416, so that makes me biased.

PD can be fun, but Andy also has a great comparison write-up on his website:

https://www.aacorvette.com/superchar...in_page=versus

robert miller

But I am thinking also with the above true statement on the TQ & HP coming on in each of these units. I would say the one coming on in lower RPM range would be harder on the drivetrain.

Plus from having a kenne bell plus a ysi & f1x blower on my c5 the Kenne Bell was really only good for a great burn out off the line. Plus per say full rwhp & rwtq at about 2800 rpm. Had to paddle the crap out of the kenne bell.

Plus almost 400 more rwhp out of the YSI & more out of the F1X with the power coming on in higher RPM range didnt have to paddle it as bad even with that much more rwhp.

You will not go wrong with any one of the A/A blowers on your car. Plus Andy and those guys are there to help you at all times. Ask me how I know that is from past builds. Andy even called me back on a sunday & got a fuel system out to me. Robert

Theta

^ Lots of low-end / off idle torque is terrible on the rear end and transmission... Ask me how I know.

thrilled

That's how I drive,quick take offs.I'm thinking that M7 is A strong transmission.They use the stock rear doing the 1/4 mile.
Don't ask me how many times they launch it before something gives.

Theta

Lots of stuff breaks at our levels - not saying a PD will cause this necessarily, but having lots of low-end torque does certainly put more stress on the transmission and rear end than a centri would.

But, they can each be fun. I also like the sound of the PD more.

Surprised nobody has brought up the tire part of the equation... Amazingly hard to hook up at 600wtq off-idle on wide drag radials. The Z06 gearing is far better suited to the PD blower. In the C7, you might as well start in 2nd and roll into it.

NoOne

I would have a PD blower if there was traction.

Both of my other cars have PD blowers, at much lower power levels and AWD and are insanely fun to drive.

The near instant torque from a dead standstill plus AWD makes the car just as fast or faster than other cars at higher power levels, but less torque down low.

But...without getting a wide body your never going to get the traction you want so I went with the Centri because of this.

The sound of a PD is great. I have an intake on my S4 and it scares people and that thats a small blower

Theta

^ Agreed. I used to race the first-gen (refresh) Minis with Rotrex blowers - 285whp has never felt so fun.

Even with the widebody, consumer tire technology is still seriously lacking. 888s or NT05rs are about the most you can do on the streets, and they're still really dangerous in any water or dew scenario.

Love the PD Audis, as well - considered two of those models before buying my M2 (especially the RS line). Only went with BMW because it was AWD (first for the M) and could make 400awhp for next to mo money in upgrades.

Sorry, getting off topic now.